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01 C5Z, Clutch Pedal Stiff/Sticking

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Old 09-04-2015, 01:14 PM
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RXPX
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Default 01 C5Z, Clutch Pedal Stiff/Sticking

I've serched and searched and haven't been able to pin point what my problem is. I know its very common to have the sinking clutch pedal that doesn't come back up with these cars. Mine does this after a few pulls. But just recently, if I'm doing full acceleration shifts the clutch pedal gets STIFF and it seems as if my clutch starts to slip.

When a clutch is bad/slipping, the easy way to tell is put it in a high gear at a low speed and mash it, if the engine revs go up and car doesn't accelerate its slipping, right? Well my clutch seems to be holding.

It's only stiffening up and acting up on a full throttle shift.

I've looked and looked but couldn't find something similar to mine.

What causes a clutch pedal to become stiff, causes the clutch to slip ONLY under certain circumstances.

Last edited by RXPX; 09-04-2015 at 01:17 PM.
Old 09-04-2015, 01:20 PM
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73Corvette
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Many of the C5 clutch problems are HEAT related...
yours could be slave or master or both...
Lots of really bright guys in this forum that will chime in and give you more specific direction.

What does your clutch fluid look like and smell like?

Last edited by 73Corvette; 09-04-2015 at 01:23 PM.
Old 09-04-2015, 01:26 PM
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Clutch fluid looks a bit burned up and I'm definitely planning on changing it out using the syringe method.

I'm just confused because I'd assume if the clutch was out it would slip any time under load, but it's only from a hard upshift.

If I do a 3rd gear pull at 60mph itll hold fine.
Old 09-04-2015, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RXPX
Clutch fluid looks a bit burned up and I'm definitely planning on changing it out using the syringe method.

I'm just confused because I'd assume if the clutch was out it would slip any time under load, but it's only from a hard upshift.

If I do a 3rd gear pull at 60mph itll hold fine.
Clutch could be going by what you just said... just the beginning stages of it.

I'd do the Modified Ranger Method until I keep getting clear fluid... I also vented my bell housing covers to allow for more air flow... thus cooler clutch.
I've done the Modified Method at least 20 times, before my fluid started staying clear...

The modified method puts this tube in the hole in the bottom of the fluid reservoir to get closer to the slave and help draw out contaminated fluid....

Also some of had good result from switching to DOT 4 SYNTHETIC fluid... is more heat resistant







Here is a picture of the VENTED bell housing cover....this is the one next to the oil filter... I didn't do the other side, didn't want to take off the starter...I guess I'm a little lazy...



All of this is just a band-aid if your clutch is going out... it's just a matter of time.

Last edited by 73Corvette; 09-04-2015 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 09-04-2015, 01:49 PM
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Thanks for the replies 73!

That's kind of what I was afraid to hear, but at the same time I kind of figured. im hoping maybe, just MAYBE someone chimes in and proves us otherwise. But you're most likely right in it being the clutch.

Thanks for the info on bleeding it, if I have to take it apart I might as well add a remote bleeder to it.
Old 09-04-2015, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RXPX
Thanks for the replies 73!

That's kind of what I was afraid to hear, but at the same time I kind of figured. im hoping maybe, just MAYBE someone chimes in and proves us otherwise. But you're most likely right in it being the clutch.

Thanks for the info on bleeding it, if I have to take it apart I might as well add a remote bleeder to it.
definitely... the clutch thing has LOTS of little tricks to it, make SURE you do your home work on clutches, installs, and all the related possible issues... whether you do it yourself or hire it done!
Old 09-04-2015, 03:35 PM
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The VERY FIRST thing that I would do would be CHANGE THE MASTER CYL!!!

Its easy, cheep and most likely full of clutch dust slime!!

If that doesn't fix it,,,,, its time to rip that sucker out and renew the clutch, slave, throw out brg, pilot brg, torque tube couplers ect!
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:28 PM
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Sorry for the late reply gentlemen.

So I'm even more confused, and a little relieved I think?

Earlier, out of anger I said, screw it, I'm gonna mash it again, I want the dang clutch to go out for good.

I did 2 pulls on the highway. Both of them off 2nd gear at 40mph then into 3rd at about 6600 rpm. ZERO slip!
I'm stumped!

The only difference I can think of that was different from when it did slip was how fast I shifted. When it slipped, it was with basically a fast " power shift ". My 2 test hits where NOT granny shifted, but definitely not super fast either. I'm leaning much more towards the master cylinder and will probably replace with a tick unit.

I'm still open to more suggestions and I'll try and keep the thread updated.

By the way, my car DOES also have he sinking/stuck to the ground pedal issue.
Old 09-05-2015, 12:30 AM
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Just did another and probably last troubleshoot pull.

Now I know that so far it will ONLY slip if I power shift, if I do a smooth shift everything works as it should.

Talked to a friend and we'll be doing fluid change very soon.
Old 09-05-2015, 08:38 AM
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Funny not long ago I started this thread about "power shifting"
NOT good for a C5 unless you are set up to do it...
NOTE post #15


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
Old 09-07-2015, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 73Corvette
Funny not long ago I started this thread about "power shifting"
NOT good for a C5 unless you are set up to do it...
NOTE post #15


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
Ha! That is funny!

Believe it or not I had not power shifted the car at all since I've owned it. I only did it for one run I did recently and lost the run due to the slipping.

Never power shifting again. Clutch seems to hold as long as I don't.

Thanks everyone for the replies, always good to see a response from Bill also.

Thanks guys, I'll be sure to keep the thread updated.

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