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How to pull a 2003 coup radiator

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Old 10-06-2015, 02:28 AM
  #21  
wjacobs82
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
You really cannot tell the color by looking in the surge tank..

If you have an antifreeze tester tool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSzuA3TlvrI

take some out of the surge tank and put it into a clear plastic water bottle to look at the color. Dex Cool is red to red/orange in color.

Prestone (not prestone dex cool) is a yellow or green color depending upon if it is extended life or conventional.. Several different companies market Dex Cool. Prestone is one of those companies.




Definitely orange...lol
Old 10-06-2015, 02:43 AM
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wjacobs82
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So would the Prestone Dexcool work with this?.....I kind of jumped the gun and went ahead and ordered it
Old 10-06-2015, 02:49 AM
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Went ahead and ordered a brand new GM certified radiator and upper, lower hoses....amazon has it as a complete set for 215$. For that price why not
Old 10-06-2015, 09:00 AM
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If I were doing your project, I'd drain the coolant system at the lowest point possible... refill it with straight distilled water... let it get up to operating temp... drain again, until I got clear water. Seems like a pretty good way to get most of, if not all of,the old coolant out of the entire system which is hard to do just draining it... then install your NEW radiator and put in whatever coolant recommended by GM.
We are mostly stock...Vararam B2 CAI, Z06 cat back exhaust, and a Chuck CoW tune...
160 degree stat and fans reprogrammed. We run 187 in town, A/C on, or on the hiway doing 80...
not sure how cool it's going to run in the winter we haven't driven in it cold weather yet... I agree with Chuck if it's 155 it's TOO cold... I will be watching the oil temps closely... I want to see 200..

Last edited by 73Corvette; 10-06-2015 at 09:05 AM.
Old 10-06-2015, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
I am a slow typer and researched the different coolants and colors and did not see this post until after I posted my opinion. With a NEW radiator in the car, ALL the more reason why I would get out all the coolant in the block and heater core before installing it. Again others may have differing views........

What ever you do record it for the next time/person that has to deal with the cooling system on the car.....
Well since I'm replacing the radiator. I'll just drain the old one still installed on the car... fill with distilled water, flush multiple times until the water drains clear...after that REPLACE radiator and hoses with the new ones.
Old 10-06-2015, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by wjacobs82
Well since I'm replacing the radiator. I'll just drain the old one still installed on the car... fill with distilled water, flush multiple times until the water drains clear...after that REPLACE radiator and hoses with the new ones.
Your already doing all that, I'd put a NEW purge tank cap on and new stat to complete the deal...
Old 10-06-2015, 12:56 PM
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Should I have the front of the car jacked up when I drain the radiator?
Old 10-06-2015, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by wjacobs82
Should I have the front of the car jacked up when I drain the radiator?
Yes you have to get the front up in the air. It makes it a lot easier to remove the radiator.

You lay under the car and push up on the condenser to break it loose. Then you do the same on the fan assembly (after you disconnect the wire clips and connectors (this is a bitch). Then remove the radiator hoses (I used a special tool to release the clamp).

It took me several hours and it was not fun.
Old 10-06-2015, 02:39 PM
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So I talked to the chevy dealership where I bought the car, I had them look up maintenance records for the car. I was told that they just topped off the coolant with red dexcool...I asked why am I seeing orange colored coolant. He said the service department said it some times has a tendency the fade with age???
There's to many what ifs for my liking.
Im just going to flush with distilled water to be safe
Old 10-06-2015, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by wjacobs82
Should I have the front of the car jacked up when I drain the radiator?
No...I'd just take the lower hose off and let it drain into a container of some kind that would slide under the car...
IF your going to take the radiator OUT the bottom then sure, jack it up and put some jack stands under it...
If your going out the TOP with the radiator then I'd leave it on the ground... that's what I did. Mine is a manual as well...

Last edited by 73Corvette; 10-06-2015 at 04:16 PM.
Old 10-06-2015, 06:07 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
The C5 radiator is about 20 " tall. You will need a lot more than just jack stands to take it out the bottom.......
Well that makes sense... like I said I took mine out the top
Old 10-06-2015, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
You need to run the engine until the thermostat opens after filling the radiator with distilled water to move the coolant from the block (about 1/2 the total coolant in the system) into the radiator. If you do not run the engine the coolant in the block, which is of unknown origin, will remain in the block.

DO NOT use 50/50 coolant to refill after flushing the system with distilled water. If you do your mixture will end up being more like 75% water and 25% antifreeze. Not enough unless you live in Phoenix and never leave Phoenix in the colder weather time.....

I have never heard of Dex cool fading color with age. Was still reddish orange after 5 years in mine when I drained it. Like what was in the link I poster earlier.
Yes sir, that's what I'm going to do. I went ahead and ordered a couple gallons of the unmixed dexcool. I already had ordered the 50/50 stuff so I'll just have to
Old 10-06-2015, 06:30 PM
  #33  
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Send the 50/50 back. How much distilled water do you think I'll need?
Old 10-06-2015, 06:41 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
3 flushes at about 1 1/2 gallon per flush so 5 or 6 gallons should be enough.
Got it, everything I ordered should be at the house by Friday so I'm going to start Saturday. I believe I've got a good idea of what needs to be done. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the help
Old 10-10-2015, 02:29 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Does NOT look like Dex Cool to me.

Here is what Dex cool should look like:

https://www.google.com/search?q=what...h9-rO5WvULo%3D


Read this article. Pay particular attention to the last paragraph.

http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literat...9;s/05-2R1.pdf


I will give you MY opinion and recognize I am NOT a risk taker.

If it were me I would not mix the Dex Cool you ordered with what is in the car. It might be OK but it might NOT. If it is not compatible the mixture can turn to a muck that will potentially plug up the narrow tubes in the radiator.

Again if it were ME, I would remove the radiator, clean it and reinstall it. I would fill the system with distilled water, run the car, turn the heat on and raise the temp for heat as high as you can, and wait until the thermostat opens and you know what is in the block has moved into the radiator. You can tell this because the engine temp will rise to near 210 degrees and then quickly drop back 15 or more degrees. Use the dash gauges set to digital temp to watch this happen.. When the engine temp drops back I would shut off the engine and let it cool. You will also feel the upper radiator hose get significantly hotter when the thermostat opens. When cool, drain the mix from the radiator. Fill the system with more distilled water and repeat this process 2 more times. That should result in the system being filled with almost 100% distilled water. Drain the system including removing the hoses one last time. Reconnect hoses and make sure the radiator drain **** is closed...

You need to add 6 quarts of straight Dex cool because you have about 5+ quarts of distilled water in the block and heater core. The 6 quarts of straight Dex cool with the water in the block will result in about a 50/50 mix. Top off the system with 50/50 Dex cool mix. Run the engine and purge the air. Let the system cool and bring the fluid level in the system to the full cold line on the end of the surge tank.


I would welcome the input from others following this thread
on what they would do. As I said I am NOT a risk taker and personally would much rather be safe than sorry even if it means a little more money and work up front.. But that is ME.

The only way I would do anything different is if you have some documentation that states clearly what was used in the cooling system last time it was changed. Did you get any documentation with the car?? If you can find out what was used purchase that and use it to fill the system.
Ive flushed the radiator for the first time. I cranked the car cold and watched the temp. I'm at 217 and the temp still hasn't dropped down. Does this mean the thermostat is not opening. Now at 220
Old 10-10-2015, 03:13 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
If it doesn't drop back down then the stat is not working properly. Could be stuck open or closed.

Also may be that you have air trapped in the system.
I just picked up a new thermostat. Going to replace it and try again
Old 10-10-2015, 03:20 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Make certain the system is cool before replacing the stat. Hot coolant produces nasty burns. I watch the digital gauge to insure temp shows under 120.
OK thanks...I'll let you know if it works

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Old 10-10-2015, 03:46 PM
  #38  
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It's not going to "cool off" till the temp reaches 226 that's when the low speed fan kicks on... no reason for it to "cool off" without the fan running...regardless if the stat is opening or stuck.
If you KNOW it's circulating... I'd put a BOX fan blowing on it to cool it down and watch the temp and drain when it's safe... repeat till you get clear water.
For that matter there is NO reason to have the stat in it while your just filling and draining...then you won't have to wait for it to open/ or not...

Last edited by 73Corvette; 10-10-2015 at 03:58 PM.
Old 10-10-2015, 04:08 PM
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I smell what your stepping in, that must take a total a few seconds for all the coolant to mix and be the same temp... after that... the only cooling is going to be the fans kicking on.... for what he's doing for now he doesn't even need no stickin stat...

I know, I know there will be some heat dissipated by virtue it just naturally cooling by running thru the system... assuming it's circulating properly...

My POINT is the FANS would kick on at 226, which would cool things considerably...

Last edited by 73Corvette; 10-10-2015 at 04:13 PM.
Old 10-10-2015, 04:24 PM
  #40  
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So drained the radiator then pulled the stock themostat...I had quite a bit of fluid come out when I pulled the thermostat. I installed the new thermostat and refilled the system to the cold fill line. Cranked the car, the temp was about 130 as soon as the digital temp came up. The temp rose to 202 then dropped to 199 and held that temp for a few minutes. I'd assume the fluid was circulating during this time. I'm going to drain again and repeat these steps two more times. I'll let yall know what's happens


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