How to pull a 2003 coup radiator
10-10-2015, 04:35 PM
#41
Le Mans Master
Ok it takes 120 seconds.. more than a millisecond, still not too long...wasn't trying to start a pissing contest. No need to get insulting. I'll go work on my attention span and stay out of the thread...
10-10-2015, 05:00 PM
#42
Le Mans Master
The goal of the process I suggested was to get the coolant in the block to exchange into the radiator without getting the car overly hot. The hotter the coolant gets the longer it takes to cool back down so it can be drained again to complete the dilution of the old coolant to a point where it will not cause adverse reactions with the new Dex Cool to be added.
There are other ways to accomplish a cooling system flush. One is to take it to a shop that has the equipment to force new coolant through the system and thereby push out all the old. Me, I can't afford the price that they charge for that type of flush. I have time that doesn't cost me a lot and the process I described earlier accomplishes the end result for just the cost of the new coolant and half a dozen gallons of distilled water.
I tried to signal my joke with the
but apparently your attention span missed that also.
There are other ways to accomplish a cooling system flush. One is to take it to a shop that has the equipment to force new coolant through the system and thereby push out all the old. Me, I can't afford the price that they charge for that type of flush. I have time that doesn't cost me a lot and the process I described earlier accomplishes the end result for just the cost of the new coolant and half a dozen gallons of distilled water.
I tried to signal my joke with the
but apparently your attention span missed that also. We were on the same page... that's why I suggested just leaving the OLD stat out till he got finished with his flush...
I highly respect you Chuck and thanks for your patience...
10-10-2015, 06:01 PM
#43
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My third flush and fill. I didn't get the temp drop that I previously got??? I went ahead and let it get close to 220 and shut off engine. I'm in the process of draining now. I'm going to check the color and if it's clear I'm going to press on with pulling the radiator to replace with the new one. Is the reason I didn't get the temp change I got the first time because the coolant in the head is already hot? Also I noticed that after changing the thermostat and running, it seemed it took alot longer to drain and more fluid came out?
10-10-2015, 06:41 PM
#44
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Seeing the temp drop is going to depend somewhat on how cold the system got before you drained the coolant.
Really cannot explain why the drain was slower after the T'stat change nor why you are getting more fluid unless you had more air in the system previously. More air = less coolant....Is the nose of the car higher than the back of the car? I have found that in my car the front of the engine is a little lower than the back of the engine when sitting on the ground. This causes more air to be trapped at the back of the engine. I usually raise the front of my car significantly when I an doing the final fill with new coolant so that there is less chance to trap air.
3 fills should be adequate to get the old coolant diluted sufficiently.
Really cannot explain why the drain was slower after the T'stat change nor why you are getting more fluid unless you had more air in the system previously. More air = less coolant....Is the nose of the car higher than the back of the car? I have found that in my car the front of the engine is a little lower than the back of the engine when sitting on the ground. This causes more air to be trapped at the back of the engine. I usually raise the front of my car significantly when I an doing the final fill with new coolant so that there is less chance to trap air.
3 fills should be adequate to get the old coolant diluted sufficiently.
I've been filling the overflow with the car on the ground, I didn't realize I needed it jacked up to fill but I'll do it that way this go around.
I'm waiting for the car to cool then I'm going to do my final drain.
I'm going to pull the radiator after that then I'll do the bleed using your method, I may go ahead and bleed it according to the service manual after that just because?
I think after I do a good bleed I should start to see the desired results I'm looking for. Also I'm curious to see what the radiator looks like...I'll post some pics after I pull it.
Does that sound like a good plan to you?
10-10-2015, 10:06 PM
#45
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Well the thermostat is replaced, engine flushed, old radiator pulled, and AC condenser is clean...I think I'm done for today. Going to install new radiator, service the coolant, and bleed tomorrow. Thanks for the help
10-11-2015, 10:06 PM
#49
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10-11-2015, 10:28 PM
#51
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So here's where I'm at... I went ahead and replaced the water pump because everything was pulled out of the way, replaced thermostat, replaced radiator, flushed engine, put everything back together.... I did the service manual bleed once but the problem I've ran into is after you cycle the RPM from idle to 3000 till you reach 210 temp, then it tells you to idle for a minute with cap off, then repeat the idle to 3000rpm cycle till you reach 210. But I was already above 210 after the first cycle???
10-11-2015, 11:00 PM
#52
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Been away from the PC for a while so I am just catching up with your posts.
Since your car is getting up to 210 (I would not have expected that with all the new parts unless there is air trapped in the system) I would give the procedure in my previous post a try. Might want to let it cool a bit so you are not working around real hot components.
On my car I cannot get the engine temp any where near 210 even driving it with the AC on. I was reaching 215 before I rebled the system and now 205 is the highest I have seen it and that was after a highway run and then getting stuck at a train crossing. Outside air temp was low 90's here in Tucson. It came back down to 201 after a bit of idling ( Damn train was parked across the road for at least 15 minutes)
Since your car is getting up to 210 (I would not have expected that with all the new parts unless there is air trapped in the system) I would give the procedure in my previous post a try. Might want to let it cool a bit so you are not working around real hot components.
On my car I cannot get the engine temp any where near 210 even driving it with the AC on. I was reaching 215 before I rebled the system and now 205 is the highest I have seen it and that was after a highway run and then getting stuck at a train crossing. Outside air temp was low 90's here in Tucson. It came back down to 201 after a bit of idling ( Damn train was parked across the road for at least 15 minutes)
10-12-2015, 12:06 AM
#53
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I did the bleed method you suggested. I had a good trickle of fluid coming out of the drivers than the passenger side heads. Topped off fluid, then did the service manual bleed... 1 min at idle then cycle the RPM from idle to 3000 until 210 temp was reached. After that I let idle for one min with the overflow cap off, but still the temp creep up to 220 untill I shut off. I guess I'll try a bleed again ??? I've replaced EVERYTHING there is to replace, as far as I can tell nothing is leaking so why am I still getting these temps??
10-12-2015, 12:28 AM
#54
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I say there is still air in the system. Did you have the nose of the car raised during either of the bleed attempts???
Have you taken the car for a short ride to see how the temp acts? When mine still had air in the system it acted irradically. Up over 215, back down to 201, back to 210, down to 199, back over 215 and all at a steady speed of over 35 mph.
Try putting the AC ON while the car is idling. That should turn on the fans at low speed. What happens to the coolant temp?? They should drop significantly below the 220 you saw. Post what happens.
Have you taken the car for a short ride to see how the temp acts? When mine still had air in the system it acted irradically. Up over 215, back down to 201, back to 210, down to 199, back over 215 and all at a steady speed of over 35 mph.
Try putting the AC ON while the car is idling. That should turn on the fans at low speed. What happens to the coolant temp?? They should drop significantly below the 220 you saw. Post what happens.
As for your questions... yes the car was raised for the first bleed using your method but not for the service manual method. I need to get a deep well 10 mm and that will make the bleed process much easier, so far I've been using a wrench.
I have not drove the car or tried turning on the AC but I'll try both tomorrow...thanks for the help
10-12-2015, 12:38 AM
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10-12-2015, 02:44 PM
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So here's where I'm at I've bleed using your method twice now once cold and once with the engine hot... I noticed I had quite a bit of air come out of the drivers side while the engine was hot. I've also done the service manual bleed, with the heater on and with the AC on. When the AC is on the car stayed at 198 and never went up...even while I was cycling the rpm. When the AC was off the car would still creep up past 210.
Of course all this was before I did the last bleed using your method while the engine was hot ( that's when I noticed all the air come out of the driver side). I'm waiting for the engine to cool down so I can wash all the coolant off, then I'm going to take it for a drive and probably rebleed when I get back. Hopefully it just took a while to work the air out because I've basically replaced the entire cooling system and I'm out of ideas
Of course all this was before I did the last bleed using your method while the engine was hot ( that's when I noticed all the air come out of the driver side). I'm waiting for the engine to cool down so I can wash all the coolant off, then I'm going to take it for a drive and probably rebleed when I get back. Hopefully it just took a while to work the air out because I've basically replaced the entire cooling system and I'm out of ideas
10-12-2015, 03:13 PM
#58
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
No problem....call any time if you need help.
I'm sorry... I should have given you the benefit of the doubt and KNOWN you were joking...MY bad.
We were on the same page... that's why I suggested just leaving the OLD stat out till he got finished with his flush...
I highly respect you Chuck and thanks for your patience...
We were on the same page... that's why I suggested just leaving the OLD stat out till he got finished with his flush...
I highly respect you Chuck and thanks for your patience...
Chuck CoW
10-12-2015, 04:30 PM
#59
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Doing the same thing it did before, is running as low as 196 on the highway with good airflow but as soon as I stop or even slow down, the temp starts to climb..fairly fast. I hit 225 sitting at a red light. I pulled into the driveway and let idle. It climbs to 226 then the fan kicks on...temp falls to 219ish, the fan shuts off and temp start to climb again. All of this is with the AC off.
10-12-2015, 06:06 PM
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... I guess anyone else named Chuck is committing copyright infringement
Last edited by neutron82; 10-12-2015 at 06:11 PM.
