westtexasbob

I was having similar problems with my driver door controls. Everything would work until I started driving then the lights went out on the driver panel and all kinds of weird stuff would happen. What i did was replace the six wire connector that is inside the rubber boot between the door and car body. This connector is a sad excuse for one. It shows power then quits getting a connection. I bought an aftermarket six wire connector and cut that one out and installed the new one and since then everything has worked like it is suppose to. Just a suggestion. I know i was about to go nuts trying to figure it out. Robert

CaseyJones

I've worked on that connector several times. Some of the female side connectors were loose. I intend to revisit that.

CaseyJones

Today I took the car out and something new and different happened. The door controls are still intermittently dead, but today the passenger window would go down on its own in jerks and bursts. Just a quarter of an inch or so to start. Then it would drop a couple of inches. Finally all the way down. @#$%&!!!

The first time it did that I could bump the window switch on the driver's controls and raise the window a little at a time, but that finally stopped working. After that I'd use the switch on the passenger door and roll it back up, but in a minute or two the scenario would repeat. After doing this several times I finally left it down until I stopped the car. Keep in mind the driver's door controls are dead at this point.

Then when I parked it, I cut the car off and raised the window before opening the driver's door. Danged if the window didn't roll completely down when I opened the door. It took a couple of tries to have the window up before I could get out of the car.

I need help...

dogwoodvette

I was going crazy with the door control and windows until i reworked the pins on the plug in the a pillar. During all of this I also reworked an accessory ground that is behind the removable panel that is just below the hood latch pull on the driver side. This is a screw that the factory screwed up. I installed a new ground connection. Have you also looked at the pin connector plug on the passenger side? Same thing with the ground clips at the engine.

There is a place in Maryland that can rework the door control module that is within the door and there is a sticky that goes over all types of electrical gremlins

CaseyJones

I was just reading an old thread about the door connectors. I had already tried to fix the ones on the car when I found an article about fixing BOTH plugs in each door (the black and the blue ones). I'm going to revisit that later today, I hope. I had already swapped out the LDCM but it made no difference so I put the original back after confirming that it wasn't a problem. I have not checked the ground yet.

CaseyJones

Before I tear something up, what is the trick to removing the kick panel on the driver's side?

dogwoodvette

if you are talking about the small triangle shaped panel that is just below the hood latch pull, it just has plastic buttons that push in place. Comes off pretty easy with a flat tip screwdriver

CaseyJones

Another update:
I just worked on the connectors in the driver's side accordion tube and sealed up the bare wire in a clear tube in the blue connector this afternoon with no good results. I'm running out of things to check. What's left?

CaseyJones

I don't live very close to anything. so going to town to buy a new connector is a planned event. I"m trying other things until maybe tomorrow evening. I'm ready to try it.

I'm going to work on the passenger door wiring tomorrow just to cover all the bases.

CaseyJones

Nice idea but not really an option with my old hands working in such a tight place. I have literally just gone back through the wire connectors at both accordion tubes and tightened up the connectors. I also pulled the buss bar and checked that functionality. No change.

Current codes as of a few minutes ago:

LDCM
B2202
B2204
B2206
B2208
B2286

If I reset the codes they come right back. The B2286 returns immediately and in a blink the other four come back at the same time.

CaseyJones

Ok. Sounds like my replacement LDCM may be bad. I'll keep that in mind as I go through the door wiring. Also, I'll pick up a RDCM if the driver's door checks out.

CaseyJones

I replaced my original LCDM with the replacement i had purchased previously. If you remember (apparently I had not), I had put the original back in when it didn't seem to make any difference with my original problem. I also checked every wire and connector in the door while I had the door panel off just to be sure all was well. No difference.

So I decided to clear the codes again. For the LDCM codes I was getting, the scenario has not changed from a couple of days ago. However, if I clear the B2286 first and only that one, the passenger window rolls down by itself. If I clear all five at one time, they return as before but the window does not roll down.

Help? Bill? Sam? Anyone?

ZZ06

Isn't there a ground wire (somewhere) in both driver and passenger doors?? Or underneath the foot pillar? Just tossing out ideas. Thought I remember reading that somewhere.

CaseyJones

I check that out tomorrow or Monday. It was suggested earlier to check the grounds but I was hesitant to remove the kick panels. The threshold extension to the kick panel made it intimidating since I hate to break the pieces trying to remove them. But, no time like the present to try it.

Bill Curlee

It seems like making SURE that the female pins inside the 6 pin power connector has taken a back seat. This problem is the MOST prevalent issue that causes DCM ISSUES.

Until you do a male pin PUSH / PULL test on the female pins in that/those connectors, your wasting a LOT of energy. The female pins are WELL DOCUMENTED to cause your issues!!

Obtain a MALE pin that is the same size as the pins in the connector and INSERT the pin and RETRACT the pin. There should be a very distinct insertion and retraction force if the female pins are in good condition. If there isn't, the female pin is damaged.

BC

dogwoodvette

Bill, you are the electrical guru on this forum. Is the sensitivity of the devices involved where something other than solid contact between the m/f pins causes a voltage drop that the module controls are picking up a false input?

I reworked all my female pins with a very narrow needle nose. Made them so the male pin had to be pushed in. I thought about cutting the OEM plug off and just making my own with insulated crimp connectors. Did not have to.

In this current issue I am wondering if a jumper was placed that bypassed the plug without cutting it may be a temporary test to determine for sure what is wrong,

Bill Curlee

IF,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,, There is not 100% POSITIVE contact between the male and female pins (especially the power pins) the module will turn ON & OFF rapidly when the pins loose contact with each other. That scrambles the digital data on the serial buss.

Until someone takes the time to put an O Scope on the pins of that connector and monitors it through failure,,, that's all I can tell you.

All I know is, when the pins make good (proper) contact, you DO NOT have these issues.

Bill

CaseyJones

Of course, there is not parts house in town that carries anything similar to the connector so I can get a pin to use. I'm going to go through my junk parts and see what I can come up with.

CaseyJones

I've checked the pin pull on the driver's side. The ground wire connector was a little loose so I tightened it up. No change although the plug has a more solid feel when I put it back together. Then I pulled off the kick panel to check the ground. With the two junction blocks there all taped together it is almost impossible to get to the ground lug to remove it. I'm still working on that. Just taking a break...

CaseyJones

All the pins check out now. I checked them all and seem to have good contact through both doors. I also checked the two grounds behind the kick panels. Both are confirmed clean and tight. No improvement to my situation. I still get five LDCM codes and, if I clear the B2286 first, the passenger window drops all by itself and the code returns. If I clear all five at once, one returns immediately and the others return right afterwards at once. I can't clear the other LDCM codes individually.

I've owned a whole bunch of vehicles in my lifetime and this one has been the most problematic.