1bad346

Ok, my slave cylinder went out this morning. Put the car up last night and now it won't go into gear. I bled the clutch. No dice. I have predal pressure and I get fluid when bleeding. When the car is running, it won't go into gear. It will start to engage the synchros and lurch forward. That tells me I'm not disengaging the clutch. So my question is, what other things should I look at replacing while I've got the torque tube, trans, diff out? Body has 200K + miles. I can assume the torque tube also does. Has a rebuild motor, trans, and diff. Any input would be appreciated.

ZigZag

You didn't say how many miles on the clutch. If it's a lot then change everything down there that you can afford. That's what's best and you'll have piece of mind. Add a speed bleeder while you at it.

Cultrag Performance is having a 10 % off special starting at 5 o'clock eastern time today. Pick up a LS7 clutch kit and add pilot, slave and flywheel etc for total under a $1,000. JMHO

1bad346

The car has a mantic clutch and a speed bleeder already on it. Clutch feels fine. I'll inspect in when the driveline is out. I have a gm slave and pilot on the way.

LoneStarFRC

Two new GM couplers, not BMW or Dorman junk.

1bad346

Would it be worth it to go to billet or poly couplers?

LoneStarFRC

Unless you're building a dedicated race car, no.

1bad346

Do they create some sort of issue with driveability of the car? Mine makes 416whp at the moment and I don't daily the car. Not trying to sound like I'm bent on buying aftermarket couplers. Just making sure I don't regret not doing them.

LoneStarFRC

The amount of NVH goes up so depending on your tolerance level and the combination chosen, it can easily reach annoying levels on a street car. I went down that road in the past and returned to the GM couplers and glad I did. They still do a good job on LS7s (Z06s) and ZR1s and GM still specs them for those cars from the factory and they have far more HP than you. Again, I would strongly recommend the GM couplers, even though they may seem a bit pricey. You can shop around of course as not all GM sources sell them for the same price. Thoroughly clean the threads of your bolts to get rid of any Loc-Tite, same for the female threads in the yoke/shaft, etc. Acetone dissolves old Loc-Tite pretty well and a wire brush helps too. Make note of the direction the bolts install as well.

HTH

1bad346

I appreciate the help LoneStarFRC

WICKEDFRC

One thing for certain is, make sure the clutch fluid is not or did not leak and splatter on the clutch/flywheel.

When my Slave went out, I was lucky in that it was leaking toward the aft side. A simple awap of the slave cylinder and I was back up. It's the labor to get in there that is the lengthy delay.

Suggest considering if now is the time to replace the entire clutch assembly due to miles or excessive wear/tear if you "get on it."

Replacing the slave alone is alot of labor for aomething else to fail a few months down the road.

waddisme

Definitely repl everything from the pilot bearing, to T/O bearing to slave. It is a good time to put some heat protection in your tunnel while all that stuff is out. You could also upgrade to MGW shifter while shifter is out also. I road race mine so I installed an al coupler in the rear and a regular one in the front about 6 yrs ago. IIRC, unless it is a dedicated track car, you need at least one rubber coupler to keep vibration down to a tolerable level.

fpfaeth

Hi -- question about the speed bleeder. I just read how to bleed the clutch and it says to remove the catalytic converter, which I'm not going to do. Can I assume that installing the speed bleeder doesn't require that step? How difficult is it to attach the speed bleeder to the clutch bleed nipple? Should mention that I have a 2015 Z06 -- maybe I should post there? Found this thread though the Search function. Thanks. Frank