Serious Tire Wear Issues
02-11-2016, 02:17 PM
#21
Team Owner
Secondly, I don't thing the stiffer sidewalls of run-flat tires like a lot of negative camber....
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enoniam (02-11-2016)
02-11-2016, 02:24 PM
#22
Because the Pfadt settings are more toward the "all out handling" side of the spectrum, whereas the Chevy settings are a balance between handling and tire wear. If aggressive alignment settings, especially negative camber, accelerate tire wear, GM gets customer complaints, with some "aggressive" customers demanding tire replacement, if within the warranty period. They aren't going to do that.
Secondly, I don't thing the stiffer sidewalls of run-flat tires like a lot of negative camber....
Secondly, I don't thing the stiffer sidewalls of run-flat tires like a lot of negative camber....
Last edited by enoniam; 02-11-2016 at 02:24 PM.
02-11-2016, 08:06 PM
#23
Melting Slicks
Thanks for pointing that out.
02-17-2016, 07:35 AM
#24
Sounds to me like you have some sort of DYNAMIC ALIGNMENT ISSUE that causes the suspension to FLEX or CHANGE alignment when the car is moving down the highway.
That's a TOUGH NUT to crack.
Start by getting the car UP in the air on a DRIVE ON LIFT. With the car in the air and on all four tires, have someone apply some SLIGHT left and SLIGHT right steering wheel input and have someone UNDER THE CAR look at EVERY SUSPENSION joint, mount, anchor point, Rack, Ball Joint, bolt and bushing.
See if you can see any FLEX or LOST MOTION when the steering input is applied.
CHOCK THE FRONT WHEELS and apply some TORQUE to the drive train and inspect the rear suspension as the torque is being applied for the same flex or lost motion.
Look at EACH A arm bushing and see if there is any abnormal deformation or FLEX.
Some of the METAL A FRAME BRACKETS that the rear A Arms are attached on to the frame have been known to crack and or come loose on one side. Look carefully at that area and make sure that they are solid.
Please let us know what you find.
Bill
That's a TOUGH NUT to crack.
Start by getting the car UP in the air on a DRIVE ON LIFT. With the car in the air and on all four tires, have someone apply some SLIGHT left and SLIGHT right steering wheel input and have someone UNDER THE CAR look at EVERY SUSPENSION joint, mount, anchor point, Rack, Ball Joint, bolt and bushing.
See if you can see any FLEX or LOST MOTION when the steering input is applied.
CHOCK THE FRONT WHEELS and apply some TORQUE to the drive train and inspect the rear suspension as the torque is being applied for the same flex or lost motion.
Look at EACH A arm bushing and see if there is any abnormal deformation or FLEX.
Some of the METAL A FRAME BRACKETS that the rear A Arms are attached on to the frame have been known to crack and or come loose on one side. Look carefully at that area and make sure that they are solid.
Please let us know what you find.
Bill
What do you suggest from here?
Thanks,
Vic in Arkansas
02-17-2016, 09:13 AM
#25
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
Select some preferred alignment specs. Find a good shop and have the specs / alignment done to the car. Six months down the road, have the specs/alignment/tire wear evaluated and see where you are at. See if the alignment is OFF.
After the alignment is DONE,, Have the tech MARK the adjustment CAM settings on all the alignment cams with white paint or a scribe mark. Make sure that those cams DO NOT move from where they were aligned to during the alignment.
That's about all you can do..
BC
After the alignment is DONE,, Have the tech MARK the adjustment CAM settings on all the alignment cams with white paint or a scribe mark. Make sure that those cams DO NOT move from where they were aligned to during the alignment.
That's about all you can do..
BC