torque tube
02-05-2016, 03:52 PM
#2
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depends what's wrong with it... you could expect to pay at least $800-1000 in labor plus whatever the parts cost that need to be replaced
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20roadking11 (02-05-2016)
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20roadking11 (02-05-2016)
02-05-2016, 07:41 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
02-05-2016, 07:47 PM
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
torque tube
I'm in Waco and don't have many choices. The only place I know of is the Chevy dealership. I may have to use them. I guess I could try the Dallas area.
02-05-2016, 08:47 PM
#6
Safety Car
I had a hard time finding any shops around me that would service the torque tube. The Chevy dealer would only replace the whole thing at a ridiculous cost, said it was "non-serviceable". Our local driveline "specialist" wouldn't touch it either.
So I disassembled the tube, created some simple instructions based off the Service Manual and went to NAPA. They said no problem, and pressed in some new bearings for less than $100 shop labor. The couplers are the other wear items, and they're easy to change with the right socket (Torx Plus 45IP).
So I disassembled the tube, created some simple instructions based off the Service Manual and went to NAPA. They said no problem, and pressed in some new bearings for less than $100 shop labor. The couplers are the other wear items, and they're easy to change with the right socket (Torx Plus 45IP).
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20roadking11 (02-05-2016)
02-06-2016, 01:06 AM
#7
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if you were closer I'd give you a hand... it really isn't that bad of a job if you're mechanically inclined and have the required tools... there are plenty of LS specific shops in the Dallas area if you decide to bring the car this way
02-06-2016, 02:54 PM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
torque tube
the labor should be pretty much the same because the whole rear still has to come out to get the torque tube out
if you were closer I'd give you a hand... it really isn't that bad of a job if you're mechanically inclined and have the required tools... there are plenty of LS specific shops in the Dallas area if you decide to bring the car this way
if you were closer I'd give you a hand... it really isn't that bad of a job if you're mechanically inclined and have the required tools... there are plenty of LS specific shops in the Dallas area if you decide to bring the car this way
02-06-2016, 05:07 PM
#9
Safety Car
Here's a basic list of things I remove.
pull brake calipers, like you are changing the pads
pop the tie rod so you can remove ebrake cables
support rear suspension to remove upper shock bolts, upper control arm bolts
pop axles from the diff, to navigate lowering past the brake lines
exhaust mid pipe
tunnel plate
shifter cable at trans
clamp from input shaft in bellhousing
torque tube bolts to bellhousing
start lowering the rear, remove wire clips and brake lines that are attached as you go
eventually end up with something like this:
pull brake calipers, like you are changing the pads
pop the tie rod so you can remove ebrake cables
support rear suspension to remove upper shock bolts, upper control arm bolts
pop axles from the diff, to navigate lowering past the brake lines
exhaust mid pipe
tunnel plate
shifter cable at trans
clamp from input shaft in bellhousing
torque tube bolts to bellhousing
start lowering the rear, remove wire clips and brake lines that are attached as you go
eventually end up with something like this:
02-06-2016, 05:26 PM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
torque tube
Here's a basic list of things I remove.
pull brake calipers, like you are changing the pads
pop the tie rod so you can remove ebrake cables
support rear suspension to remove upper shock bolts, upper control arm bolts
pop axles from the diff, to navigate lowering past the brake lines
exhaust mid pipe
tunnel plate
shifter cable at trans
clamp from input shaft in bellhousing
torque tube bolts to bellhousing
start lowering the rear, remove wire clips and brake lines that are attached as you go
eventually end up with something like this:
pull brake calipers, like you are changing the pads
pop the tie rod so you can remove ebrake cables
support rear suspension to remove upper shock bolts, upper control arm bolts
pop axles from the diff, to navigate lowering past the brake lines
exhaust mid pipe
tunnel plate
shifter cable at trans
clamp from input shaft in bellhousing
torque tube bolts to bellhousing
start lowering the rear, remove wire clips and brake lines that are attached as you go
eventually end up with something like this:
02-06-2016, 06:03 PM
#11
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Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
That is EXACTLY how I did my drivetrain maintenance. When I reinstalled mine, I installed JUST the TT and then assembled the trans/diff onto the TT. Makes the single person reinstall a LOT easier..
If you have a place to work on your car, get the tools and GETERDONE!
BC
If you have a place to work on your car, get the tools and GETERDONE!
BC
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20roadking11 (02-06-2016)
02-06-2016, 07:12 PM
#13
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The bearings will just start to make noise. When they start to make noise, you need to change them because if the front bearing fails, it will destroy the clutch pilot bearing.
The couplers will deteriorate over time. The rubber cracks. Inside the rubber is a special very heavy duty fabric chord that allows thee rubber to flex and not deform and stay in shape over prolong engine loading.
When the rubber breaks down to the point that it no longer works to keep the inner core supported, it will deform enough and start causing drive line vibrations. There comes a point in time that the chords get destroyed and you get LOTS OF NOISE and sometimes TT damage.
I disassembled my 02 Z TT and everything looked 100% and sounded solid when rotated. Back together she went!
My buddys 2000 A4 Coupe had some heavily cracked couplers. He was at 100,000 miles.
Bill
The couplers will deteriorate over time. The rubber cracks. Inside the rubber is a special very heavy duty fabric chord that allows thee rubber to flex and not deform and stay in shape over prolong engine loading.
When the rubber breaks down to the point that it no longer works to keep the inner core supported, it will deform enough and start causing drive line vibrations. There comes a point in time that the chords get destroyed and you get LOTS OF NOISE and sometimes TT damage.
I disassembled my 02 Z TT and everything looked 100% and sounded solid when rotated. Back together she went!
My buddys 2000 A4 Coupe had some heavily cracked couplers. He was at 100,000 miles.
Bill
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20roadking11 (02-07-2016)
02-07-2016, 08:26 PM
#14
The bearings I installed were
One SKF 6007 2RSJEM
Two SKF 6008 2RSJEM
and two driveshaft shop couplers(guibos).
5k miles later with much spirited driving no noise, no vibrations, just smooth.
When you have everything out TT, transmission, etc. Go over everything and make sure everything is fine you do not want to pull out the transmission twice like I did.
Last edited by jimmyLSX; 02-07-2016 at 08:29 PM.
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20roadking11 (02-07-2016)
02-07-2016, 09:01 PM
#16
Noise is the first sign of worn out bearings. I had a slight vibration on mine at the time. Vibrations happen from neglecting to replace the bearings once they are worn out. Worn out bearings put stress on the ends of the driveshaft, prop shaft, end shaft which then cause the vibrations, they can become damaged permanently. Then again that was what I was told by the corvette shop who rebuilt my driveshaft. After I installed everything back together everything was back to being smooth.
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20roadking11 (02-08-2016)