Dahc

i noticed today on my 2000 c5 that it takes a little while to show readings on dic.it will show voltage,oil etc.it shows the words but no actual number readings.it takes at least 30 seconds to start showing.when i scroll through them, some will not show for a few seconds.after it has been running a little while they show up as soon as i scroll through them.is this normal?

Pounder

no !!!!

Dahc

what could be the issue?

Pounder

Batt or ignition switch ??? Maybe Bill Culee will post he is the electrical genius here !!!!

Bill Curlee

NONE of the actual gages are connected DIRECTLY to the sensor.

All the voltages are a result of reading the output of the ignition switch.

Oil pressure, Temps, ect all go through the PCM and sent to the IPC as digital representation through the serial data line via the BCM.






Start by making sure that your ignition switch is clean and functioning properly.

If there is ANY delay "INSIDE THE SWITCH" with going from CRANK (where ALL the gages are ISOLATED) to RUN (Hot & RUN ignition power reconnected) it may be causing what you are seeing.

BC

Dahc

thks guys for the quick reply.i will check it out.

Dahc

here is what I found.i checked all the voltages after the car sat over night.
ignition off battery voltage checking at battery terminals 12.44
ignition on battery voltage checking at battery terminals 11.98
fuses 19,18,17 and 22 all were 11.98 on both sides of fuse.
fuses 16 and 13 were 11.96 on both sides of fuse
with fuse 19 and 16 when I read them across fuse it read .001 all others were .000

fuse 21 11.79
fuse 13 11.83
fuse 19 11.86

one other thing I noticed when I started car dic numbers were not showing so I shut off car then stated back up and all were reading fine.

Dahc

Checking fuses under the hood everything was off.checking fuses in the car door was open so interior lights were on.

Dahc

today going to work on start up airbag light came on.i noticed memory seats would not work.light came on when selected but seat would not move.when airbag light went off memory seat started working.

Dahc

i also noticed when driving watching voltage on dic it jumps around.example when i hit brakes it goes from 14.0 to 13.1 just for a second.bounces around for a second then goes back to 14.0

Dahc

new battery terminals have been put on.

Bill Curlee

AGAIN,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Don't rule out the IGNITION SWITCH..


Bill

Dahc

you think i should pull ignition switch and clean it?

Bill Curlee

Its free and sure cant hurt

Dahc

ignition switch cleaned.did not help.i am getting infamous abs and traction control lights.they do not stay on to long.i noticed today abs and traction was on then airbag came on for a second and then all lights went off.

Bill Curlee

Its GOOD that you cleaned the switch. I have a post that details the cause of the switch failure and how to clean and adjust the contacts.

Some questions that you need to answer:

1. Did you recurve the contact arms to add additional contact pressure?

2. Did you do a resistance measurement of the contacts BEFORE the cleaning and after to see if the switch contact resistance improved?

3. Did you examine the harness connector that plugs into the switch to inure that none of the female pins were damaged/spread apart or the plastic frame that holds the pins were melted?

4/Remeasure the voltages on the Hot in Run & Start fuses for the modules in question.

Dahc

talked to my mechanic he said he just sprayed ignition switch out.he did not want to take it apart.so i am going to take it apart myself per your instructions.i will follow instructions and do all the described troubleshooting and get back with you with that info.with working so much it has been hard to find time.i will get it done sometime this week.one thing i did notice is it was acting a little different after he sprayed it out.lights not staying on as long.maybe spraying it out cleaned it a bit.i am thinking that there is some bad contacts in there.

Bill Curlee

LMAO. Well, tell you Mechanic that he did ABSOLUTLY NOTHING to your actual IGNITION SWITCH CONTACTS. Where you insert the key is NOT connected to the switches. Where you insert the key is the actual KEY CYLINDER. The key allows the cylinder to rotate and that turns a shaft at the end of the cylinder. That shaft rotates a cam and that cam moves FIVE metal PINS that press on the switch contact ARM.

This is the IGNITION SWITCH:



If you put the key into the cylinder turn it to RUN and press a TAB on the black plastic barrel the key cylinder will come out and this is what you see:



There is little to ZERO chance that any spray gets to the switch contacts!!


Here are the contacts:





The SIXTH contact is actuated by the little button inside the cylinder housing when you insert the key into the cylinder. That's how the car knows you have the key in the ignition.

Bill

Dahc

I should of explained it a little better. He pulled the switch out but did not pull the contacts off. He just sprayed them. He did not spray key cylinder. Sorry for the confusion. I will be taking it apart myself. I should have done that in the first place. I have been to busy to do anything. Will have time next week though.

Dahc

here is what I found when I took out the ignition switch.contacts were not lined up right.and they were burnt.the two contacts were very crooked.cleaned them all up and realigned two of the contacts.put everything back together and started up the car and abs and traction control lights stayed on.climate control would not come on also.is there a fuse for the climate control that might have popped?going to check for that and check dic codes.