pmr2000

Have the right side code and gauge dropping to empty, tried techron for months only a little improvement to about 3/4 before dropping to zero.

I see that the sender is available seperately, should I just get the whole pump/sender assembly for an easier replacement? I see Ecklers has it on sale right now about $300, not sure if I need a separate gasket/seal?

Anyone have instructions or tips, want to attempt myself.

Thanks.

strand rider

I have very low corvette repair skill levels , so can only offer what I have read here in attempts to improve my understanding, which probably won't add much.

First, There is a service memo on this, and it is a computer reset , to interpret the readings without going to empty when the gauges give information the computer can't understand. Don't know much about this, other than it works, it is not reported much.

Another solution is cleaning the transfer nozzle, it is the type that uses flow to create suction for fluid transfer, and the openings are sensitive to change, like stuck on debris, as one reported. IF you have ever used that type of pump, they can be a little tricky to start, but foolproof in operation.

Your solution looks very effective, and just ask at the time of purchase about the gasket. I would probably get the pump , after checking the projected duty cycle, my car has some miles, and I would rather not tear into previous repairs when I could be cruising.

Since gasoline is a solvent , it takes pretty bad gas on a consistent basis, to get to a place where additional cleaners would work. In my state fuel quality is tightly regulated, I might have well just poured a lot of techtron in the gutter for all the good it did. THen I thought about the conditions surrounding the reports of techtron success, and they were all from non smog controlled areas. . All top tear gas uses a like additive , and most would , I suppose, feed the vette the best gas available.

I no longer seek repairs in a can for this deal. I long ago learned to shun chemical repairs for mechanical problems, but followed , without understanding, that same advice for this problem .

PLease post up your results. I have the same issue, but it happens so infrequently it is pretty far down on the "things to do" list.

jcgunn

I replaced (my mechanic that is) both the left and right senders at the same time. We also swapped out the strainer/sock. There are several different senders out there with the same part number. (long arm, short arm, pre-FFS, post FFS) My advice is to remove yours to figure out which one you have. An 01 should not be FFS, so it's either long or short arm.

LoneStarFRC

I recommend you do NOT buy the higher priced unit from Ecklers. Their prices are higher pretty much on everything across the board anyway.

Here's the one you need for your '01:

AC Delco part # MU1218. It's the complete assembly and includes a new tank gasket. It's available many places but Rock Auto has it for $231.79. I would not hesitate in the least to use it.

The sender by itself is ONLY available for the LEFT tank. There you have a choice of either sender or complete assembly, but not on the right side.

http://www.rockauto.com/info/343/MU1218_Primary.jpg

Changing your unit is not too bad really. Draining the right tank, or running the car until you get low on fuel (don't run out though) are a couple ways the get the right tank as low as possible. The fuel in the right tank gets consumed by the engine before fuel in the driver's side tank during normal operation.

Do a search. This topic has been covered extensively

zachaeous

I repaired both sides on my 2001 coupe myself. The pump assys come with new seals and bolts if you go that way.

For me it would depend on how many miles were on your car as to whether or not I would replace the electric pump itself.

After looking at the build up on the surfaces of the sending units, I decided to try and clean them. I used lacquer thinner and a maroon sanding pad to clean the contact surface of the units.

I did this to both sides and a year later still working fine. I did replace just the electric pump assy because of mileage (150000 miles).

I also had the dealer do the reflash on the PCM for the fuel gauge that Chevrolet put out a bulletin covering the problem.

It was not a hard job just a mess dealing with the gasoline and the fumes.

The fuel pump gaskets are very expensive if purchased by themselves.


Good luck

pmr2000

Thanks guys think I will give it a shot, I should by a fuel line release tool also, correct?

LoneStarFRC

Nope, not needed unless you're planning on changing your fuel filter which is mounted on the frame rail. The filter does need the tool in order to change it, the pump(s) do not. The lines are finger-squeeze and pull, to disconnect. Use a couple drops of clean motor oil on the o-rings when re-inserting.

pmr2000

Thanks got it ordered from Amazon since I have prime, $238.....hopefully solves my frustrating problem. Its trying to be a good car just some crappy parts...still have the right air check valve left as an issue, after these 2 everything working!

pmr2000

If anyone has any links with pics or tips let me know....while there are a lot of fuel gauge threads having a hard time finding any sender replacement instructions.

Are the sender assemblies on the bottom of the tank or side?

pmr2000

Does the right sender assembly tie into the siphon pump? Do I need to insert it into anything inside the tank? Or is it just the plugs and hoses on the outside?

Thanks.

LoneStarFRC

Pump and sender are all one assembly and yes, the old one gets removed from, and the new one is inserted into, the tank.

pmr2000

Thanks, does the new assembly get connected to anything inside of the tank? Curious if there is something to attach or line up with inside the tank?

dadaroo

No internal connections. Just align it so the level sensor will work.


Mr. Sam

pmr2000

Great will report back, may have to wait until next weekend, need to run down the gas but rain everyday this week.

pmr2000

Just wanted to update successfully R&R, appears to be working....left it with code on E but with a couple of gallons, lost about a gallon replacing, when I turned on key showed about 1/8 tank without clearing code. Added a few more when up a little, then took a ride and filled so far so good!

1 note on install they did not give me new hose clips, had to carefully pry off old sender, being plastic was thinking they would break and would be stuck. Also no breakaway screws only need about 5 ft/lbs so did it by feel, my torque wrench too big to get in that spot.

I was able to just take off one bolt on bottom fuel tank shield and slightly bend out of the way without any damage. The other bolt holding that thing on was was up by the body was only on jackstands.

zachaeous

Thanks for the update.

It is not that hard a job on the early fuel systems. Just a mess dealing with the fuel.

Glad you got it fixed.