Ideas on easiest way to resolve SWPS issue?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Ideas on easiest way to resolve SWPS issue?
Ever since buying the car from the previous owner, the 'active handling warming up' message is displayed every drive, and remains on with the exception of occasionally saying 'warm up complete' after a long period of time (>20 min). Then the other day the car finally threw C1287. From what I've read both phases of the SWPS should read ~2.5V when the wheel is centered. Checking the voltages on the SWPS, one wire reads ~2.5V when centered and the other reads ~5V, though they do correctly gradually change when the wheel is turned.
Is this indication of a bad SWPS or is there an easier fix such as unbolting at the steering box and turning the steering wheel some amount?
Is this indication of a bad SWPS or is there an easier fix such as unbolting at the steering box and turning the steering wheel some amount?
#2
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Yeah the clock spring was my concern with that as well. It's a 2001 and I do have access to another SWPS, but would rather not have to pull the column out if not necessary. I guess I just don't understand how the voltages can be increasing/decreasing appropriately but not be lined up with one another, unless that's just something that could happen when the SWPS fails. But to answer your question the steering wheel is straight and it drives straight as an arrow.
Last edited by jonpauls; 04-29-2016 at 11:47 PM.
#3
Intermediate
Ever since buying the car from the previous owner, the 'active handling warming up' message is displayed every drive, and remains on with the exception of occasionally saying 'warm up complete' after a long period of time (>20 min). Then the other day the car finally threw C1287. From what I've read both phases of the SWPS should read ~2.5V when the wheel is centered. Checking the voltages on the SWPS, one wire reads ~2.5V when centered and the other reads ~5V, though they do correctly gradually change when the wheel is turned.
Is this indication of a bad SWPS or is there an easier fix such as unbolting at the steering box and turning the steering wheel some amount?
Is this indication of a bad SWPS or is there an easier fix such as unbolting at the steering box and turning the steering wheel some amount?
Measure the resistance between pins 1&6 and 2&6. They should be the same. This is very similar to measuring the voltage across those pins. With the linkage disconnected, see if you can turn the steering wheel to a position where the measurements are equal. Then re-attach the linkage with the steering wheel in the proper position. I have ordered a pig tail connector to plug into the swps to make it easier for me to make the measurements. Right or wrong, that's what I'm trying.
I wouldn't go more than a quarter of a turn without some confidence I'm moving in the right direction, due to the airbag sensor clock spring. 1/4 turn changed my values from: 1-6=3.65k Ohms, 2-6=7.50k ohms to 1-6=5.56k ohms, 2-6=5.56k ohms (That was a 1/4 turn counter clockwise).
Hope this helps!
Tom
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douglasjre (12-24-2022)
#5
Melting Slicks
In the 2000 and earlier Corvettes there was a blue wire in the SWPS that you measured the voltage for 2.5V, for the 2001 and up I know there are two blue wires but am unsure which one (light or medium blue) you measure the voltage. If you get the 2.5V while centered then its like 8VETTE7 said the sensor is failing.
#6
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In the 2000 and earlier Corvettes there was a blue wire in the SWPS that you measured the voltage for 2.5V, for the 2001 and up I know there are two blue wires but am unsure which one (light or medium blue) you measure the voltage. If you get the 2.5V while centered then its like 8VETTE7 said the sensor is failing.
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
In the 2000 and earlier Corvettes there was a blue wire in the SWPS that you measured the voltage for 2.5V, for the 2001 and up I know there are two blue wires but am unsure which one (light or medium blue) you measure the voltage. If you get the 2.5V while centered then its like 8VETTE7 said the sensor is failing.
If you're replacing the sensor, centering the new (used) one is very simple, it's not even necessary to read voltages or resistances. The pin hole (as shown in the 2 o'clock position) will only allow a pin to be fully inserted when in the centered position. The centered position is as shown with the cutout on the innermost part at 9 o'clock position (near the silver sticker in the picture).
#8
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Just wanted to post an update for others after resolving this. The intermittent C1287 and very long "Active Handling Warming Up" messages turned out to be a bad connection in my intake air temperature sensor wiring, a result of deleting the MAF to switch to a speed density tune. This was the same resolution as at least one other individual on the forum.