jrprich

I would like to insulate the tunnel from the underside of the car.
If I remove the tunnel plate, is there room above the torque tube and the floor to place some 1" thick flexible insulation? The insulation is rated to 1200 degrees and is foil faced on one side.

Also, while I have the tunnel plate off..... I have a spare stock TP, can I double the two TPs up to increase the stiffness?

Thanks in advance,
Jim

ROXUL 40260 Insulation, Wool, Foil Backing
Temp. Range: 0 Degrees to 1200 F
Thickness: 1"
Item: High Temperature Insulation
Standards:ASTM C612 Type 1VB,E136,E84, C665,C795 Stainless Steel, Chemical Length: 48"
Moisture Absorption: No Material:Mineral Wool/Foil Backing

seand03

I put some 3/4 in mine when the trans and TT was out. No problem, cooled it very well. I also put in a 3/8 flex with he it sheild.

Edit u can drop the sub frame a few inches to get the required clearance to slide it in. It's only 4 bolts and maybe shocks.

Patches

Here's mine with the exhaust and tunnel plate removed - plenty of space in there.

73Corvette

[QUOTE=Patches;1592451755]Here's mine with the exhaust and tunnel plate removed - plenty of space in there.

Is this picture taken in some fine art gallery? How the ____ do you keep the underside of your car soooo clean... I can't keep the TOP side of mine that clean... u r the man

Pounder

[QUOTE=73Corvette;1592451882]

You beat me to it Steve this guy should be banned from the forum, all his sh** looks too Dam good !!!!!!

Pounder

I put this stuff above my torque tube, and it made a huge difference is sound and heat. Then Bill Curlee posted that you should not block the passage in the tunnel because of air flow. He said you should glue it to the top of the tunnel. I had a heart attack, but I have not had any issue so there it is ???????

neutron82

I would prefer to not use something so thick and bulky but that's just me... thermotec makes some nice stuff that will reject up to 2000 degrees of radiant heat and it is very thin in comparison to what you wanted to use, it is maybe a millimeter or 2 thick... I would also put it in the tunnel area above the torque tube as stated above

GUSTO14

DEI sells a product called Boom Mat, Floor & Tunnel Shield II that is 3/16" thick. Easy to work with and very effective heat shielding. Some of the vendors here carry it.

Aggressive self-adhesive backing holds past 450°F
Withstands 1750°F direct continuous heat
Use to shield & reflect unwanted heat

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...und-insulation

Brian Eggers on the C1-C2 Forum used it on his '63 resto-mod and it looks terrific.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-member-7.html

Good luck... GUSTO

gimp

To answer your other question, you can buy a thicker tunnel plate for more stiffness.

jrprich

I am aware of that.
But what I asked was has anyone doubled up on the stock tunnel plates to add stiffness.......since I already have a spare available.

YELLO C5

I used the same stuff as GUSTO14 and it made a big difference. Have to tunnel open again and am tempted to do the underside of the plate. Anyone do that? Any problems?

Cutlassmaster

I insulated mine with the cheap foam/bubble style from Lowes/Home Depot. Then i cut a piece of sheet metal i had to match the plate and bolted that up. No issues with it so far and its been 4+ years.
Chris

huesmann

Gents, with the adhesive stuff like the DEI floor and tunnel shield, does it matter if you stick it to the inside (top) of the tunnel plate, or outside (bottom)?

seand03

I used the non adhesive on the top, glued it with gorilla. Then I used the flat adhesive on the tunnel. Worked great

foggy

So, where IS the correct place to put the "insulation".??
On the Car Tunnel Itself OR on the tunnel plate ??

seand03

I put as much as a reasonably could. It weighs almost nothing and helps alot. I don't think you need it on the top and bottom however it eliminated at least 80% of the heat. No more warm legs, or melted gum in the center console.

I also had the torque tube out so it was kinda a no Brainer to put it on the top as well. Just make sure to put it on the inside of the tunnel plate not the outside. If you don't want to remove the cat back I guess you could wrap the exhaust but I'm not a fan of that because if it gets oil soaked you risk a fire.


As far as the correct place I think either will work. The adhesive stuff is like 4x the cost but I think it was on like $40 for a sheet vs 10 for the double sided aluminum stuff with insulation in the middle. If your going to pull the cat back and tunnel plate I don't see any reason not to put it on both. Like I mentioned I did have the torque tube out I don't recall if you can fit it in if you don't remove or at least lower it a few inches.

seand03

I didn't realize you were talking about inside the tunnel plate or outside. My bad. I wouldn't put it on the outside because then it's more exposed to rocks, water, and debris. If it starts to peel off it would be a big waist of time/money. I know the alu will be pointed the wrong way if it's inside the plate however I think the benefits out weigh the cons.

pgandy

Since the idea is to keep the heat out of the cabin you want to stop heat transfer from the tunnel to the cabin. If you only put insulation on the topside of the tunnel plate the tunnel walls are still exposed to heated air which passes by the headers and engine surfaces and gets drafted into the tunnel. You would still see convective heat transfer which is likely significant given the air flow.

strand rider

I read a post here from a guy that doubled up his tunnel plate with a spare and reported it went well, I wish I remembered more, but that's free advice for ya. As I remember, he thought it just as good to double the existing part over buying the aftermarket dedicated part. I suppose that stiffness would depend on the fasteners, but that is also the reason I only repeat the info, haven't tried it myself.

Rob 02

I installed a C6 tunnel plate when I put my car back together.

I insulated the top of the plate and the back of my tunnel still gets hot. I don't have a center console because my interior is a work in progress. The tunnel feels like it could burn your arm when the trans gets hot.

I'm going to blame the transmission for the center console heat and not the exhaust. I thought about insulating the area above the trans but thought that the adhesive would dry out over time with heat. I'm just going to insulate the inside of the car.

That is my experience with this issue.