SVT_Z06

I want to be able to hold 700 HP/TQ, and don't want any issues shifting fast or at higher rpms.

neutron82

stay far far away from an oem replacement or ls7 clutch in that case... my act twin is part # t2s-g01, rated for nearly 1000ft/lbs of torque and it has had no issues holding what I've thrown at it... I also have a tick master cylinder and an mgw shifter, shifts are very fast and smooth as butter shifting at 6800rpm... the clutch is also very quiet, it has only chattered a handful of times in traffic and those cases were all my fault... the pedal on that particular clutch is firmer than stock and the tick master adds to that so there is a bit of a learning curve but after you learn how to drive it then it's no big deal

racebum

you have to use an aftermarket twin disc

get ready to pay dearly

SVT_Z06

Yeah, for the clutch. Saving on labor. Doing it myself.

huesmann

Don't forget the remote bleeder! I recommend trying to find one with a bend in the fitting at the slave, or an angled fitting.

SVT_Z06

Yeah. I saw an angled one at ECS. But for 80 bucks. Seeing if I can make one or find one cheaper.

racebum

check your local area for hydraulic line stores

parker, motion and flow, some caterpillar dealers etc. they can make custom lines and often for a lot less than the retailers who have the same places make theirs then mark them up

also worth replacing those half shaft seals. they are a couple bucks and prone to leaking

kp1

I went with the ACT Twin Disc. Comes with the flywheel balanced as a unit. I have one in my 2002 Camaro and it has clutch pedal that is pretty close to the effort required for the oem clutch. It's probably a bit lighter. Never has chattered, but it will make a squeal once in a while when it's cold and you let it out. They have two versions of the streeet/performance kits, one has a light weight flywheel and the other is a solid billet steel flywheel.

You do have to remove 3 of the bolts the pressure plate fits over in order to get it to go in with the bellhousing bolted on. They come out easy enough, but it is a slight pain to get the spacers under the pressure plate and get the bolt through them.

SVT_Z06

So after days and days of research, I have narrowed my choices down to:

SPEC 3+ (800 + tq, carbon semimetallic...can be slipped and will stand up to heat. First choice)
ACT
Mantic Er2

SPEC 3+ meets my hp/tq drag racing needs. No reports of chatter, and around $550. I can shim if need be.

Any last thoughts or reviews are welcome.

racebum

spec also has the worst rep of the 3

chat with owners before you buy. the mantics have been extremely popular and reliable

ACT is also a great clutch brand

spec might be alright now but that wasn't the case a few years ago. chat with people about this and if remotely possible drive one and see what you think

kp1

I had a few SPEC clutch products a few years back and they were just crap. The worst chatter ever. Most recently I bought a SPEC billet flywheel and it wasn't true. Had the shop true up the surface before balancing it with the PP I was using. It was fine, but you can't trust their machining in my humble opinion. And in all honesty, I had a ACT single disc PP take a dump, but the customer service at ACT was so good about fixing the problem, I then went with their twin disc.

Everybody makes mistakes, it's how they rectify those mistakes that makes a world of difference.

SVT_Z06

Mcleod RST is on the way.

After tons of research and debate, overall, this clutch will meet my needs.

I can deal with chatter, and noise at idle.

I want to be able to shift lightning fast and cut my 60ft to 1.6 - 1.7 and achieve my 1/8 mile goal. 7.2 @ 98 mph. I can probably do it with other clutches, but this one makes sense, budget wise.

SVT_Z06

Thanks to all for the valuable input. Appreciate it.

95wht6spd

I think you will like it, I really like my RXT, and no noise or chatter.

SVT_Z06

I hope so. It will be here tomorrow.

SVT_Z06

Has anyone noticed that the clearance between the top dics and flywheel ring is less than a centimeter? I really hope this does not rub, as there is metal on the other side of the organic material...

Roman 1

I have a 2000 FRC with 243 heads a nice cam and headers and I went with the Mcleod RST and love it. I had a lot of problems with the stock LS6 clutch I put in for the first clutch replacement at 90k miles. Now at 150K miles I just finished the RST install with matching fly wheel, new stock master and slave cylinder as well as the extended bleeder hose. No fitment issues at all, no clutch chatter or noise and a lighter than stock feel. I completed the break in process about a week ago and did my first hard launches up through the gears and did not have a single issue. I made several hard starts up through 4th gear where my pedal would normally stick to the floor or the pedal would get soft and won't allow me to engage 4th gear and I have yet to have an issue.

DOUG @ ECS

The remote bleeder kit and pilot bearing come N/C with a purchase of the Mantic 9000 from us, along with shipping too.

I have driven every clutch under the sun for these cars since I'm tuning most of the day, Mantic has been the most consistent, easy driving clutch there is IMHO.

It's also being used in some of the fastest manual Corvettes on this board.

PM me for discount pricing.

momo20

i am running a ls7 with tick master and zero issue and making well over 630 rwhp...lots and lots of camaro's guys running ls7 clutch kits with turbos making over 700 to 800 with zero issues

SVT_Z06

A little lesson I learned when doing this job entirely by myself.

Install the torque tube first. Much much much easier!