1986ROC

I recently bought an 03' Z06. Unfortunately my slave cylinder is leaking. I just ordered a GM replacement today, as well as a remote bleeder. after calling the dealer and getting a quote for just under $1400 for labor alone, looks like I'm doing this one myself. I'm hoping some people here can share some tricks they've learned to make this as painless as possible. I've already found a great thread on the subject, but again just looking for solutions to problems I may run into.

Anyway, I know a lot of you will recommend replacing the clutch while I'm at it, but the car only has 28k miles on it an the clutch feels solid. Anybody ever changed their slave and kept the original pilot bushing? Also, should I buy a clutch alignment tool just in case?

Kyle

Nasbluec5

I couldn't imagine doing all that work and not replacing the clutch or anything else that would make me tear into again anytime soon while you're in there. Guess you'll see what kind of shape it's in when you pull the inspection plate. I'm willing to bet you have some level of contamination on your friction surfaces.

TONS of how tos and threads out there about this.

Moto One

I'll be the one to say you should be ok with the clutch and pilot bearing, IF your are carful on the reinstall. It's easy to damage the PB on install weather it's new or not. I say you be ok only because my stock clutch and pilot bearing went 115k. I have since change the PB Clutch three more times in the last year.. just to get the right combo that I like. You'll do fine it's not rocket science.

Mark

vettenuts

Here is something I did which I found helpful since I was working alone. Before I move the torque tube out of the way and lowered, I took some measurements. Laser Measurements

However, if you only plan to install the slave and remote bleeder, I would simply roll the torque tube assembly back out of the clutch, don't reposition the torque tube angle/height, etc. at all to keep the alignment correct, swap the parts and push the torque tube back into place. This is assuming you are using something like a couple of transmission jacks.

Hope that makes sense.

DVUSz06

I'm with moto one on this. I'm not sure how many miles you drive the car a year or how modified you are or your driving style, all should be considered but at your current level of mileage for age of car, if that stays consistant and it takes another 13 years to double your mileage, then I wouldn't assume you will be back in there anytime soon. That being said, I would closely evaluate the used parts for serviceability, if you are not sure have a qualified mechanic look at the parts and make a recommendation. I personally don't just replace parts because I have to move them to get to a failed part. I inspect for serviceability. But I also know one person may be able to get 100k moles on a clutch and next guy can't get 30k. Application and driving style key here. Just my .02

1986ROC

Thank you all for the comments. Since I plan on driving less than 7,500 miles a year I'll stick with my stock clutch/pb. At least I think my clutch is stock anyway. It wouldn't surprise me if it was changed out. Whoever had the car before me did some mods. Should I grease the pilot when I reinstall? What kind of grease?

huesmann

Slight hijack: is there a preferred/recommended remote bleeder?

1986ROC

I'm not really sure. I ordered Tick. That's the only name I remembered seeing in another thread. I'm hoping everyone replies that Tick is the way to go since I already ordered!

Sam Handwich

There are some made by Motive; MityVac is another.
From some of the reading I have done there are people who say the Harbor Freight products are adequate.

Sam Handwich

and here is another article on how to make your own brake bleeder. I think these can be modified to bleed clutches, but I have other pots boiling at the moment.

http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...atech/bleeder/

Bill Curlee

Well, here are some recommendations from someone that did the clutch work on jack stands by myself.

Its very doable. Install a remote bleeder! PERIOD.

28K on the parts, IF it wasn't abused and you do not plan on aggressive driving is fine to use what's there

PILOT BRG.. Should be fine as it sets BUT, it will be somewhat DRY. The problem comes from when you reinstall the driveline! The slightest bit of out of alignment on the TT and bad stuff happens to the pilot brg.

Yes!! I would add little high temp bearing grease to the roller bearing just to keep the roller bearings from falling out during reassembly! That's what usually goes wrong during reinstall.

Your torque tube couplers SHOULD be fine BUT, if it were me, I would check them. Mine were fine at 45K..

I personally remove the transmission and differential as an assembly from the TT and reinstall the TT into the bell housing by it self. Its MUCH lighter and easier to properly install that way. Then reinstall the trans/diff back on to the TT.

While the slave is out, have someone help you FLUSH the master cylinder BEFORE you connect it back to the slave. There will be nasty black contaminated fluid in it and its easy enough to pump some clean stuff through it. You just have to depress the check valve inside the coupler to bleed the fluid out.

Speaking of couplers. The Quick Disconnect for the slave / master can be a real PITA!. Spray it with WD-40, clean it off. Press the coupling TOGETHER and then,,,,, press in on the little white release ring. Pressing the coupling together allows the white release ring to insert a lot easier. I use a tubing flare nut wrench that will fit over the fitting to press in on the release ring.

Once it is fully depressed, it should pop easily apart when you pull on it.

If you have any problems or questions, just ask here or PM me. GOOD LUCK on your project!

Bill

johnson-rod

Do you have Dope's write-up on how to do this? If you can't find it I can send it to you.

Spend the extra bucks and get a new clutch master cylinder too. It's only a few minutes to change and then the entire clutch hydraulic system is new.

I didn't change the pilot bearing when I changed the slave. Just be sure to keep everything at the same angle when you slide it apart and slide it back together again. Don't move anything!! No clutch alignment tool needed either.

Spray the "quick disconnect" fitting with lubricant before messing with it. (CRC, WD40, PB Blaster)

Route the clutch line away from the manifold to keep it cool. Perhaps cover in insulating sock.

It's just a lot of unbolting and bolting back up. No rocket science involved. Good luck.

jarnold

Holy Crap! Exactly the same problem here. What are the symptoms? Replace the Clutch master cylinder with a Tick performance and now this. Now I have a peddle that will go low and I have to pump it up. Losing fluid constantly. Is this the same problem you are having? Shiot I was afraid this was going to cost a ton. I guess you have to drop the engine and drive train down? Impossible to do the in the Garage. Must have a commercial lift.

Can you guys direct us to the threads on DIY'ing it? Or who or how would I search for it? I am pretty much a an accomplished Shader Tree mechanic. This might be daunting?

Nasbluec5

Tons of people do this without a lift, and I'll be another one. Bank on about 12-16 hrs from start to finish though depending on your skill and if you r and r the tt.

Bill Curlee

And I would be ANOTHER!!!!!!.. Four jackstands and NO, you do NOT have to drop the engine! Just the rest of the drivetrain.

Use Dopes write up.

BC

Sam Handwich

Can someone help us with the Dope write-up? Where do we find that?

johnson-rod

PM with your email address. It's about 2.5Mg of Word document and pictures.

striper

I am another person who did the job on jackstands at home. I also used Dope's instructions to do it. When I did my repair it was also because the slave failed, luckily I was able to drive the car home the day it happened. My car had 107k miles on when it did. Prior to that the clutch was working perfectly but because it had so many miles, I replaced everything, clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bushing, clutch master,etc. Also took apart the torque tube but everything looked perfect so just put it back in. I used a stock Z06 clutch because I'm not planning any more mods than I have. At 148k miles everything is operating as it should. Dope's instructions were excellent. I used three jacks, a floor jack under the tube, a trans jack from Harbor Freight, and a Harley lift for under the cradle.