Tusc

I'm lowering my car on Ride Tech coil overs, but need information.

What I want to do is ensure the car retains factory body angle. Maybe it doesn't matter, but I figure the engineers set the car up that way for aerodynamics and when I go fast I want to be sure the car remains aerodynamically sound. To that end, what were the factory ride heights?

Having read a sticky and several posts, I am confused. What is a reliable point from which to base the measurements?

I won't be dropping the car all that much. Just enough so it won't look skyjacked like it has on the Bilstein/full Z06 suspension I've had and to fit the tires better. Maybe 1" when done. I don't want to be dragging the intercooler ram air blade.

Thanks for the info, gents.

leadfoot4

While many people use the wheel openings, since it's easy, that method isn't always 100% accurate, as body panel fit may vary slightly. The factory uses the inner pivot bolt of the lower a-arms, as their reference point, although I believe the lower frame rail could also be used.

Tusc

If I can get reference numbers from those points, I'd be all set.

Hope to order tires / wheels this week so I can wrap it up.

73Corvette

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...de-height.html

Nasbluec5

I have my right height biased about a 1/4" lower in the rear to help facilitate weight transfer rearward. No I don't have axle scales to measure but it's common sense really. If you're lowering the car enough all around I cannot see for the life of me how this would "upset" the car. I also only sit approximately 3" off the ground though so that may be an extreme example.

leadfoot4

The "rake" that people are referring to, is also known as "aero rake". The front sits a tad lower, to A) cause air flowing over the nose to push the front lower, and increase stability at speed; and B) prevent air from getting under the nose of the car, causing drag.

f6john

Tusc, hope you are planning to document and photograph all this work for us.!!

Tusc

I can definitely show some before / after pics when I get it all collected. The front coilovers go on today.

Having done a single shakedown run around the neighborhood with the blower, I can attest that the initial Setting 10 on the rears has an authoritative thump on the pavement separations (For some reason, I thought they would be softer - though that has not been the intent.) The manufacturer suggestion was to start at 10 and adjust from there. I am eager to see how the car will drive when it's all done, but I know it will be a night-and-day difference. I will have gone from old Firestone oval tires on ZO6 wheels with ZO6/bilstein suspension and stock LS1 w/ fast 92.... to wider, lower profile RE-11s on CCW 19s with lowered coilovers and same LS1 with valvetrain upgrades, ~10psi boost, methanol and a tune.

Totally different car.

Here's a teaser. The car in its natural state: airborne!
Note the Roadkill sticker worth 50 at the wheel. X2 multiplier when hood is removed.
Side note: those cheap floor grids from Ocean State Job Lot? They are way better than a creeper. I can slide all over on them easily and they save my knees getting up and down.

Tusc

Here are some pics to update progress.

I managed to get the fronts in this morning after following Lionelhutz's instructions found on the forum here.

I have not yet measured or set the ride height for any of the four corners. All I have done so far is twist the rear locking collar as far as I could by hand, and for the fronts just enough to maintain pressure during the install. I would say the nose is about 1/2 to 1" too low - it is SLAMMED. I went for a slow victory lap and to grab some 94 octane and the front air dams were scraping high points of the road and whenever I stopped. I'll trim what I need to once I finalize ride height. I definitely felt like my butt was sliding on the pavement, I'll say that!

Here is a "before" image where the rears are already swapped over to Ridetech HQ coilovers and the front remains C5 ZO6 spec with Bilstein shocks.



Here is the "after" where all four corners are now Ridetechs.



Passenger front installed.





And a gratuitous shot from this weekend while I tweak and reroute a few pieces.

0Rodney@ridetech

Don't be afraid to put some preload in the spring to get the ride height you need. Go about 1/2 as much as you need to raise the car. So if you need to raise the car 1/2" go about 1/4" preload. It's not exactly a 2:1, but it will get you in the ballpark.

Tusc

That is good to know.

Do you guys in the shop have performance stats for your C5 set ups? Not that it applies to my project directly, but I'd be curious to know what heights and settings are being run on the track with the best success.

0Rodney@ridetech

We run ours about the same as your after picture with a little bit of rake. I will get some pictures of our track car.

Tusc

Raised the front coilover settings this weekend to the top with the intent of adjusting back down slowly to what I liked. As it turns out, the top setting strikes me as the perfect street driver setting for Connecticut. The air dams only catch on rare high points or traversing driveways.

Still just casual driving, but enjoying the heck out of it.

I always thought body roll was controlled by the sway bars. Now maybe I am out of touch with the vette's handling since it's been down for half a year (3 months to replace a gas tank I bubba'd) but in general shakedown cruising it felt like the body has little to no roll now. Sways are still C5Z w/ metal links. I'm probably just out of touch, but I am loving the package as it comes together.

6speedsteve

I will be installing mine this winter, I currently run LG 1" Drop Spindles and lowered on the stock bolts. Excellent ride quality I hope the Coilovers with the Drop Spindles will impress me more.