Stuck in 3rd
#1
Stuck in 3rd
So I took the vette out last night, and down shifted from 6th to 3rd at 50 mph. I'm sure I blipped the throttle to match revs. And then I gave it the full beans up to 6500rpm. I then pushed the clutch all the way in pull the shifter towards 4th and it felt like the was off limits, like I hit a wall.. lol
And now the car is stuck in third or neutral..
So I just purchased the car and cant afford to spend a bunch of money on it at the moment since I just got it..
My plans thus far,
-Order a steel 3/4 fork since my car is 02 and I would assume has the aluminum fork.
-order the 3/4 syncro
-order the billet keys and spring kit.
-and whatever the minimum amount of part/seals/gaskets I need to make this car run until winter, then I'll probably send the whole trans to have rebuilt. I know it was tracked a little so its been through its paces.. all this will come from tick performance unless you guys have a better suggestion..
I have a MGW short throw on the car, I don't know if that makes any difference..
I can do the work. I have the tools. I need to know if there is anything else I need though..
So any suggestions? I will be talking again with tick performance in the morning, but I would like to hear from you guys also..suggestions on a good manual also?
Can anyone maybe explain what might have happened? I'm thinking maybe syncro stuck on 3rd, key or spring broke???
Thanks
Jeff
And now the car is stuck in third or neutral..
So I just purchased the car and cant afford to spend a bunch of money on it at the moment since I just got it..
My plans thus far,
-Order a steel 3/4 fork since my car is 02 and I would assume has the aluminum fork.
-order the 3/4 syncro
-order the billet keys and spring kit.
-and whatever the minimum amount of part/seals/gaskets I need to make this car run until winter, then I'll probably send the whole trans to have rebuilt. I know it was tracked a little so its been through its paces.. all this will come from tick performance unless you guys have a better suggestion..
I have a MGW short throw on the car, I don't know if that makes any difference..
I can do the work. I have the tools. I need to know if there is anything else I need though..
So any suggestions? I will be talking again with tick performance in the morning, but I would like to hear from you guys also..suggestions on a good manual also?
Can anyone maybe explain what might have happened? I'm thinking maybe syncro stuck on 3rd, key or spring broke???
Thanks
Jeff
#3
Racer
How many miles are on the car? I lost my 2nd gear syncro at 86K and went ahead and replaced all the syncros, keys, bearings etc.
Here's the kit I bought that had everything in it. If you have to go through pulling the trans I would just rebuild. May think about a new clutch too since you have it apart already. Just a thought.
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
Here's the kit I bought that had everything in it. If you have to go through pulling the trans I would just rebuild. May think about a new clutch too since you have it apart already. Just a thought.
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
#4
Sounds like you clutch master/slave cylinder catastraphically failed, and it wouldn't let you get into 4th. Can u move the shifter into a different gear while the car is off? Hows the clutch pedal feel?
Things are gonna get expensive quick depending on the mileage of the car and previous ownership, I wonder if the P/O knew what was up and decided to dump the car.
Pulling out the drivetrain is a pita the first time around.
Might wanna consider upgrading clutch if its still stock.
Stock Clutch Master Cylinder = LS7 or Twin Disc.
Aftermarket Clutch Master Cylinder = Twin Disc or Single or LS7
Things are gonna get expensive quick depending on the mileage of the car and previous ownership, I wonder if the P/O knew what was up and decided to dump the car.
Pulling out the drivetrain is a pita the first time around.
Might wanna consider upgrading clutch if its still stock.
Stock Clutch Master Cylinder = LS7 or Twin Disc.
Aftermarket Clutch Master Cylinder = Twin Disc or Single or LS7
Last edited by jimmyLSX; 08-18-2016 at 03:57 PM.
#5
And when the car is off, it is still stuck in 3rd or the neutral position just below third. can't move the shifter side to side at all.
#6
Sounds like you clutch master/slave cylinder catastraphically failed, and it wouldn't let you get into 4th. Can u move the shifter into a different gear while the car is off? Hows the clutch pedal feel?
Things are gonna get expensive quick depending on the mileage of the car and previous ownership, I wonder if the P/O knew what was up and decided to dump the car.
Pulling out the drivetrain is a pita the first time around.
Might wanna consider upgrading clutch if its still stock.
Stock Clutch Master Cylinder = LS7 or Twin Disc.
Aftermarket Clutch Master Cylinder = Twin Disc or Single or LS7
Things are gonna get expensive quick depending on the mileage of the car and previous ownership, I wonder if the P/O knew what was up and decided to dump the car.
Pulling out the drivetrain is a pita the first time around.
Might wanna consider upgrading clutch if its still stock.
Stock Clutch Master Cylinder = LS7 or Twin Disc.
Aftermarket Clutch Master Cylinder = Twin Disc or Single or LS7
Drive train removal looks like a job for sure, gotta learn sometime though. Clutch is a spec brand with aluminum flywheel and it has less than 12k on it. I have receipts for all that.
How many miles are on the car? I lost my 2nd gear syncro at 86K and went ahead and replaced all the syncros, keys, bearings etc.
Here's the kit I bought that had everything in it. If you have to go through pulling the trans I would just rebuild. May think about a new clutch too since you have it apart already. Just a thought.
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
Here's the kit I bought that had everything in it. If you have to go through pulling the trans I would just rebuild. May think about a new clutch too since you have it apart already. Just a thought.
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
I spoke with Tick performance yesterday and they recommend just pulling the trans and getting in there to see what is going on before they would suggest any further action.
So monday when I get back. my vette comes apart. lol
Thanks for your help guys.
#7
can anyone suggest me a T56 book or manual to help me once I have things torn apart?
Also looking for the best manual for the C5 in general if anyone has a ny suggestions for that.
Also looking for the best manual for the C5 in general if anyone has a ny suggestions for that.
#8
Hey Jeff, sorry to hear about the clutch. I'll be following the thread to see what's going on.
If it makes easier for you, I'm forwarding the invoice to you, and to make easier for the other forum members, here's what I bought:
1 x SPEC Stage 2, 690 Foot Pounds of Torque (LS1 & LS6)
- Flywheel Type: Steel Billet (+$233.10)
- Concentric Hydraulic Release Bea: No
- Clutch Slave Cylinder - without: No
- Clutch Master Cylinder: No
- Aluminum Pressure Plate: No SC092 $619.20 $619.20
Sub-Total: $619.20
Total: $619.20
Thank you for purchasing from BYUNSPEED
http://www.BYUNSPEED.com
Please print this invoice for your records
It was professionally installed by the Corvette specialist in Moyock I told you about.
Car was never really tracked. A few Auto-X sessions in 2012 and one 2 days driving school at VIR in 2014 doesn't quality for clutch abuse. Car was sitting a lot since my daughter was born in 2013, I don't think I drove more than 1000 miles per year after that.
If it makes easier for you, I'm forwarding the invoice to you, and to make easier for the other forum members, here's what I bought:
1 x SPEC Stage 2, 690 Foot Pounds of Torque (LS1 & LS6)
- Flywheel Type: Steel Billet (+$233.10)
- Concentric Hydraulic Release Bea: No
- Clutch Slave Cylinder - without: No
- Clutch Master Cylinder: No
- Aluminum Pressure Plate: No SC092 $619.20 $619.20
Sub-Total: $619.20
Total: $619.20
Thank you for purchasing from BYUNSPEED
http://www.BYUNSPEED.com
Please print this invoice for your records
It was professionally installed by the Corvette specialist in Moyock I told you about.
Car was never really tracked. A few Auto-X sessions in 2012 and one 2 days driving school at VIR in 2014 doesn't quality for clutch abuse. Car was sitting a lot since my daughter was born in 2013, I don't think I drove more than 1000 miles per year after that.
The following users liked this post:
Jeffdenney (08-27-2016)
#9
Drifting
Best manual for the C5 is the shop manual. Search for one used on ebay for your year. Used they should be ~$100, new they are $300.
Sorry to hear about the issues. It might be just the linkage, but I suspect it's worse than that...
Sorry to hear about the issues. It might be just the linkage, but I suspect it's worse than that...
#10
Hi Rafael, I don't think its anything you did wrong. I'm totally satisfied with my purchase still. Thanks for the invoice though.. I believe You even gave me the paper invoice when we met for the buy, so now I have two copies. lol
I have most of the car apart right now. Brakes, control arms, halfshafts, exhaust, torque tube tunnel cover, Intake bridge, Center console and Short throw, and most of wiring harness.. I will be lowering the drivetrain out today sometime.
I have spoke with RPM transmission and I am driving the transmission down to them Monday 08/29/2016 . They are only 3 hours away and a very reputable shop from what I have read on the forum. If all goes well, they said I will be driving back Monday night with a happy transmission.
From what I have researched and read about the t56 m12, it sounds like I maybe sheared a shift key and/or something is definitely wrong with the 3/4 gear syncro.
FWIW, I did order some parts from the Tick Performance website before I decided to take the trans in to someone.
-Steel 3/4 shift fork
-billet keys and springs
-and 3/4 syncro assembly
They called me the next business day to inform me that the 3/4 syncro is sold out from everywhere and that they were going to refund my money for that part and shipping immediately. Fast and Great customer service on their end. Thanks guys at Tick.
I am still deciding if I should order the Tick upgraded master cylinder, for two reasons. First its got great reviews, and second my car has 76k miles so it may be time especially with an upgraded clutch.
As far as the manual subject goes, my plan is to buy the factory manual as soon as I'm done with this situation. And I know that sounds backwards, but I cant afford another $250 right this second.
Hopefully I can have the car all back together by next weekend and possibly make an HPDE event before the summers over.
Thanks for the help and now I'm looking for suggestions for fluids.
So far
-clutch/brakes----Motul 600
Trans-----redline or royal purple--synthetic ATF3
Diff---????? no clear winner yet
I have most of the car apart right now. Brakes, control arms, halfshafts, exhaust, torque tube tunnel cover, Intake bridge, Center console and Short throw, and most of wiring harness.. I will be lowering the drivetrain out today sometime.
I have spoke with RPM transmission and I am driving the transmission down to them Monday 08/29/2016 . They are only 3 hours away and a very reputable shop from what I have read on the forum. If all goes well, they said I will be driving back Monday night with a happy transmission.
From what I have researched and read about the t56 m12, it sounds like I maybe sheared a shift key and/or something is definitely wrong with the 3/4 gear syncro.
FWIW, I did order some parts from the Tick Performance website before I decided to take the trans in to someone.
-Steel 3/4 shift fork
-billet keys and springs
-and 3/4 syncro assembly
They called me the next business day to inform me that the 3/4 syncro is sold out from everywhere and that they were going to refund my money for that part and shipping immediately. Fast and Great customer service on their end. Thanks guys at Tick.
I am still deciding if I should order the Tick upgraded master cylinder, for two reasons. First its got great reviews, and second my car has 76k miles so it may be time especially with an upgraded clutch.
As far as the manual subject goes, my plan is to buy the factory manual as soon as I'm done with this situation. And I know that sounds backwards, but I cant afford another $250 right this second.
Hopefully I can have the car all back together by next weekend and possibly make an HPDE event before the summers over.
Thanks for the help and now I'm looking for suggestions for fluids.
So far
-clutch/brakes----Motul 600
Trans-----redline or royal purple--synthetic ATF3
Diff---????? no clear winner yet
#11
Team Owner
OP, I hate to think you went through all of this, if the problem is actually something else. Are you sure it isn't a problem in the shift linkage? Maybe the clamp that links to the shifter box has loosened, allowing the shifter to move, yet the rod isn't shifting the transmission??
#12
OP, I hate to think you went through all of this, if the problem is actually something else. Are you sure it isn't a problem in the shift linkage? Maybe the clamp that links to the shifter box has loosened, allowing the shifter to move, yet the rod isn't shifting the transmission??
#13
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 10,426
Received 1,261 Likes
on
1,056 Posts
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
rpm is a good group of guys... before you had this issue did the clutch have any issues shifting at redline?... if not then you may not need the tick master cylinder, usually people install those when they are having trouble with high rpm shifts... on the other hand it can help make your shifts really fast so that is a plus... if you order their standard master the pedal will be a bit firmer due to a larger bore which some people don't like but they also offer a stock bore master so order that one if you don't want any added pedal pressure
#14
rpm is a good group of guys... before you had this issue did the clutch have any issues shifting at redline?... if not then you may not need the tick master cylinder, usually people install those when they are having trouble with high rpm shifts... on the other hand it can help make your shifts really fast so that is a plus... if you order their standard master the pedal will be a bit firmer due to a larger bore which some people don't like but they also offer a stock bore master so order that one if you don't want any added pedal pressure
The clutch seemed fine for the entire 800 mile trip back from North Carolina. What you are saying about the Tick master cylinder is exactly as I have read.
My daily is an e39 BMW and it seems like lightning shifts compared to the heavy and slow operation of the T56 in the vette. So maybe I'm a little spoiled in that department. I don't need to order it right away since the master cylinder doesn't require the drive-train to be removed for installation. I'll most likely install the trans and everything back in and then see how it drives. I can then decide what to do about the master cylinder if I decide to do anything at all.
#15
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 10,426
Received 1,261 Likes
on
1,056 Posts
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
yeah you can always install everything and see how you like it first before going ahead with the master so that is a plus not having to take it all apart again... you can make these cars shift really good but it costs a lot of $$$$ to get it that way... on fluids I use motul rbf600 in the brakes/clutch and I have had a good experience with amsoil torque drive atf in the trans and amsoil severe gear 75/90 in the diff
The following users liked this post:
Jeffdenney (08-27-2016)
#16
yeah you can always install everything and see how you like it first before going ahead with the master so that is a plus not having to take it all apart again... you can make these cars shift really good but it costs a lot of $$$$ to get it that way... on fluids I use motul rbf600 in the brakes/clutch and I have had a good experience with amsoil torque drive atf in the trans and amsoil severe gear 75/90 in the diff
Last edited by Jeffdenney; 08-27-2016 at 11:15 PM.
#17
Quick shot of the drivetrain yesterday after i got it removed from the vehicle. I used a floor jack under the torque tube, but I found it much easier to move the drivetrain by myself if I just held the torque tube and bossed the trans jack around with it. So that is why it is sitting on the floor right now..
Then I have the transmission in the trunk of my daily. Headed to RPM at 5am!
Sorry for the caption, it was a snapchat..
Am I gaining experience points yet?? lol
Last edited by Jeffdenney; 08-28-2016 at 06:33 PM.
#18
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 10,426
Received 1,261 Likes
on
1,056 Posts
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
looking good, let us know how things go at rpm and what they discover
#19
Team Owner
#20
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 10,426
Received 1,261 Likes
on
1,056 Posts
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019