Is this a DIY project?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Is this a DIY project? Pic Added
so while I was replacing shocks I noticed both rear tie rod boots were torn (its part #5 on diagram below). I've searched the forum but i don't see any information on how hard it is to replace them. I plan on replacing brake pads in a few weeks and would like to do this at same time. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
David
Thank you,
David
Last edited by sgmz06; 08-26-2016 at 01:26 AM. Reason: can you please move to tech? I posted in wrong location.
#2
Team Owner
Energy Suspension part # Energy Suspension 9.13101G (blk) or R (red) Fits perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspen...nsion+9.13101R
https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspen...nsion+9.13101R
#3
Drifting
David, are you talking about the boot over the ball joint?
Mark
Mark
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Lone star- thanks for the link. That seems easier to change out then the whole thing.
Mark- yes. The boot is torn so my assumption is the joint is bad as well. To be perfectly honest I had no idea what the part was called till I looked it up so if I'm way off base I apologize.
I knew I should've taken a picture.
Respectfully,
David
Mark- yes. The boot is torn so my assumption is the joint is bad as well. To be perfectly honest I had no idea what the part was called till I looked it up so if I'm way off base I apologize.
I knew I should've taken a picture.
Respectfully,
David
#5
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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Part 5 is actually 2 parts. The inner part has a socket joint and the rod. The outer part threads onto the rod and attaches to the spindle.
If is easy to change the outer joint. Not too bad on the inner but a little more work.
The main thing is you have to try and keep the assembly the same length and then you'll have to get the car aligned after you are done.
If is easy to change the outer joint. Not too bad on the inner but a little more work.
The main thing is you have to try and keep the assembly the same length and then you'll have to get the car aligned after you are done.
#7
Team Owner
As long as the joint is not toast and you only have a torn boot, that's the easiest (and cheapest) way to go. If however, there's signs of grease that has been leaking, or joint contamination, etc, I'd go ahead and replace the outer tie rod end since there's no way to re-grease the OE TRs. No zerks.
Tip: if you do get new TRs, I'd still get the Energy Suspension boots. They're inexpensive and are of a more durable material than OE rubber.
HTH
Tip: if you do get new TRs, I'd still get the Energy Suspension boots. They're inexpensive and are of a more durable material than OE rubber.
HTH
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
gimp- yes. I normally go on base and use the auto craft center. It has lifts and the tools needed to do most repairs.
Lionel- one of my worries was after repair I'd need a alignment. I wasn't sure since its a back tire wether I need that.
FRC- I probably just do the entire outer TR. I'll make sure i get the Energy Suspension boots. If the entire TR is toast would it make an annoying clicking sound?
I've read that if i use ceramic brake pads with stock rotors the squeal will be unbearable. Do you have any experience with this? This is the part number I'm looking at for the rears. ACDelco 17D732CH. Someone here in Honolulu is selling a pair new in box for $25.
I really appreciate all the help.
David
Lionel- one of my worries was after repair I'd need a alignment. I wasn't sure since its a back tire wether I need that.
FRC- I probably just do the entire outer TR. I'll make sure i get the Energy Suspension boots. If the entire TR is toast would it make an annoying clicking sound?
I've read that if i use ceramic brake pads with stock rotors the squeal will be unbearable. Do you have any experience with this? This is the part number I'm looking at for the rears. ACDelco 17D732CH. Someone here in Honolulu is selling a pair new in box for $25.
I really appreciate all the help.
David
Last edited by sgmz06; 08-23-2016 at 02:17 AM.
#10
Drifting
As far as alignment goes, you and count the turns as you remove the balljoint, and as a back up measure the distance before removal and after install.
Mark.
Mark.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
I climbed under the car and took a pic.
Boot cracked on tie rod end link. After seeing the pic and enlarging it looks like I need to replace more than just the tie rod.
Boot cracked on tie rod end link. After seeing the pic and enlarging it looks like I need to replace more than just the tie rod.
#12
Drifting
Tie rod ends come with the boot and joint. That doesn't look terrible - just your usual age issues. Replace it, obviously. And see if you can't get a castle nut setup on there; joints should usually have a castle nut, not a normal nut.
#13
Safety Car
Last edited by SG Lou; 08-26-2016 at 10:00 AM.
#14
Team Owner
#15
Team Owner
Definitely would never use a Nylock nut there anyway unless it was just temporary. Brakes can radiate a lot of heat.
#17
Le Mans Master
The picture you posted shows the rotor. That is not a stock rotor. It is a drilled rotor while the stock rotors are not.
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sgmz06 (08-27-2016)
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
I have put ceramic brake pads on the stock rotors and do not have any squeal although I did not use the manufacturer/part number you questioned about.
The picture you posted shows the rotor. That is not a stock rotor. It is a drilled rotor while the stock rotors are not.
The picture you posted shows the rotor. That is not a stock rotor. It is a drilled rotor while the stock rotors are not.
David