1998 C5 can't remove Steering Column, corroded/stuck on coupler intermediate shaft
08-25-2016, 08:23 PM
#1
1998 C5 can't remove Steering Column, corroded/stuck on coupler intermediate shaft
This week is major dashboard tear down because I had to replace the cluster, and did some other fixes.
As part of replacing a bad steering sensor, I'm trying to decouple the steering column. Did all the steps, removed bolt holding the intermediate shaft to the steering column.
The steering column is supposed to 'slide off' without the bolt, but there apparently is corrosion, and no matter how hard I pull, or how much PB blaster I spray on the junction, it won't budge.
The 97-98 C5s have a different intermediate shaft, where the steering column slides into the junction, as opposed to onto as in the 99-04s.
Any ideas how to even approach this?
As part of replacing a bad steering sensor, I'm trying to decouple the steering column. Did all the steps, removed bolt holding the intermediate shaft to the steering column.
The steering column is supposed to 'slide off' without the bolt, but there apparently is corrosion, and no matter how hard I pull, or how much PB blaster I spray on the junction, it won't budge.
The 97-98 C5s have a different intermediate shaft, where the steering column slides into the junction, as opposed to onto as in the 99-04s.
Any ideas how to even approach this?
Last edited by nuts105; 08-25-2016 at 08:24 PM.
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nuts105 (08-25-2016)
08-25-2016, 09:15 PM
#3
Yes, thanks! So that's what it is for? I did try to wedge a screwdriver in there to try to expand it permanently or shake it loose - then removed screwdriver before trying to pull column again. It didn't occur to me that this was a design feature (I suppose) to temporarily expand it. Going to try that tomorrow.
08-27-2016, 05:12 PM
#4
This seems to be the advice as far as I could find. I did buy a 1" cold chisel because it was long enough, but when I hammered it into the slit it just slid off because the wedge was too wide. On the other end when I try a large screwdriver, there isn't much of a 'wedging' action here as the flat head is too flat..how is this supposed to work?
Is there a specialized 'wedge tool' for this? Also another problem is that even if there was a perfect fit, the shafts and coupler u-joint are hanging in the air, there isn't exactly a lot of force you can even apply to this setup as it's not solid against a frame or ground. Assuming it was wedged in there, prying left/right to widen the split wouldn't work either, the slit is not deep enough for tool to remain seated.
Like almost everything with car parts there must be some design on how to manually disassemble - I just don't get it in this case, and can't get my damn steering assembly off.
Is there a specialized 'wedge tool' for this? Also another problem is that even if there was a perfect fit, the shafts and coupler u-joint are hanging in the air, there isn't exactly a lot of force you can even apply to this setup as it's not solid against a frame or ground. Assuming it was wedged in there, prying left/right to widen the split wouldn't work either, the slit is not deep enough for tool to remain seated.
Like almost everything with car parts there must be some design on how to manually disassemble - I just don't get it in this case, and can't get my damn steering assembly off.
08-27-2016, 05:37 PM
#5
1/4 mile/AutoX
I use a air chisel with a blunt end and low air pressure, the vibration and hammering effect always worked for me !!!!! (for tough applications generally)
08-27-2016, 08:35 PM
#6
It seems the one thing that allows me to make 'progress' is to nudge in a screwdriver and then turn the wheel with some torque while holding said screwdriver (I have long arms), effectively prying the tongues apart, a tiny bit at a time. At least they look more apart now. Column still not moving though.
You'd think at the bottom of the slit a smaller screwdriver would fit in, so that if I'd wiggle that it would push the steering column out.
Last edited by nuts105; 08-27-2016 at 08:37 PM.
08-28-2016, 09:02 PM
#7
I did it, after a lot of yoga on and in the car. Along with instructions I got some info about the lovely 97-98 steering sensor.
First off I noticed taking pictures of the split tongue that I actually kept pulling the steering column a mm or so by my alternative screwdriver wedging and prying the wheel left and right, then pulling the wheel like a madman. Also I used a long 1" wide chisel (only one long enough they had at Lowes) to hit the steering column (not the coupler) at an angle so that was actually pushing it out little by little as well.
When I noticed things were moving actually, I got quite the fright realizing that I was never going to be able to get it back in without collapsing the column because the joint fitting was still super tight. Also it was already out sufficiently so it wouldn't align anymore with the cabin fittings. So it seemed I was majorly screwed esp since I have to put the car in covered storage tomorrow (I haven't found the final rain leak yet).
Then I noticed that some instructions mentioned taking out the intermediate shaft first. I realized that would be my salvation because once the coupler ujoint was out of the car as part of the intermediate shaft, I could probably easily widen the fitting by hammering a screwdriver in the slit on solid ground and if that didn't work by other means.
And luckily the bolt and fitting holding the intermediate shaft in the rear turned out to be an open fitting that just slides off (and it did) to the side once the bolt is out.
So I finished the job by ramming a screwdriver into the upper slit, leaving it in there, and then pushing the wheel down so that when I pulled again it would have momentum, and out it came.
The rest went exactly as envisioned.
I opened the coupling enough so it simply slid onto the column - I may have overdone it a bit because now the bolt has to have enough force to press the lips together again so hopefully there is no play - it seems fine. When I drive it and it has play I'll mention it.
Honestly it was a horribly difficult job to get that column out. I have an idea now of the forces to be applied to make progress, but this is bullshit. I actually had to file off some small dents I made in the column with the cold chisel so things would slide smoothly onto it again. Btw it would never have come out with an air hammer or heat: there was no corrosion, the matter was that the coupler hugged the column like a massive spring clamp. Once it was off I couldn't even begin to slide it in the coupler fitting was much tighter.
Now to the steering sensor for 97-98: not only is it much more expensive than 99-04, but very importantly (and I haven't read this anywhere)
1) DO NOT TAKE OUT THE PIN ever before fitting it on the steering column. I'm not talking about leaving it off when you attach the sensor to the column, I mean never remove it at all unless you have fit the sensor onto the column. If you do you are completely screwed because there is basically no way to put the pin back in. I had an intuition about it so didn't do it. I wasn't able to put the pin on the old sensor at all. What I also noticed is that my old sensor was not properly aligned on the column - it was slightly off by about 1 o'clock. No idea if that just turned out to be too inaccurate after sensor got worn or if the mechanic put it on wrong after replacing balancer some time ago. But I get why it was on wrong: it was aligned like the 99-04 sensors! The 97-98 one brass contact sticking out of the senor is exactly 90 degrees off from the switch socket when properly aligned (pin in). The 99+ alignment dot mark is at 90 degrees + 1 o clock (I happen to have a 99+ sensor as well, don't remember why). It's no problem to put the pin back on the 99+, so that is why you never see 1) mentioned.
2) Plan to take out the column completely for 97-98. There is no way you'll be able to slide off the old sensor from that angle. It's not sticking, but there is a plastic grommet around it that hugs the column very tightly and you somehow need to apply force perfectly parallel to the column. It was hard enough to get it off with the column outside the car.
3) I believe the general instructions (of course for the 99+ C5s it turns out) posted everywhere mention that you'll 'push out the grommet in the firewall invariably' when pulling out the steering column, and to just put it back from the engine firewall side once you have installed the column again. I don't think so (97-98). The here white plastic grommet indeed invariable comes out with the steering column. I lubricated the column so the grommet can move freely on it. From inside the driver cabin you can easily put the grommet back onto the rubber housing. Move the steering column into position but not yet into the firewall hole. Then slide under the seat and slowly guide the top of the column through that grommet.
First off I noticed taking pictures of the split tongue that I actually kept pulling the steering column a mm or so by my alternative screwdriver wedging and prying the wheel left and right, then pulling the wheel like a madman. Also I used a long 1" wide chisel (only one long enough they had at Lowes) to hit the steering column (not the coupler) at an angle so that was actually pushing it out little by little as well.
When I noticed things were moving actually, I got quite the fright realizing that I was never going to be able to get it back in without collapsing the column because the joint fitting was still super tight. Also it was already out sufficiently so it wouldn't align anymore with the cabin fittings. So it seemed I was majorly screwed esp since I have to put the car in covered storage tomorrow (I haven't found the final rain leak yet).
Then I noticed that some instructions mentioned taking out the intermediate shaft first. I realized that would be my salvation because once the coupler ujoint was out of the car as part of the intermediate shaft, I could probably easily widen the fitting by hammering a screwdriver in the slit on solid ground and if that didn't work by other means.
And luckily the bolt and fitting holding the intermediate shaft in the rear turned out to be an open fitting that just slides off (and it did) to the side once the bolt is out.
So I finished the job by ramming a screwdriver into the upper slit, leaving it in there, and then pushing the wheel down so that when I pulled again it would have momentum, and out it came.
The rest went exactly as envisioned.
I opened the coupling enough so it simply slid onto the column - I may have overdone it a bit because now the bolt has to have enough force to press the lips together again so hopefully there is no play - it seems fine. When I drive it and it has play I'll mention it.
Honestly it was a horribly difficult job to get that column out. I have an idea now of the forces to be applied to make progress, but this is bullshit. I actually had to file off some small dents I made in the column with the cold chisel so things would slide smoothly onto it again. Btw it would never have come out with an air hammer or heat: there was no corrosion, the matter was that the coupler hugged the column like a massive spring clamp. Once it was off I couldn't even begin to slide it in the coupler fitting was much tighter.
Now to the steering sensor for 97-98: not only is it much more expensive than 99-04, but very importantly (and I haven't read this anywhere)
1) DO NOT TAKE OUT THE PIN ever before fitting it on the steering column. I'm not talking about leaving it off when you attach the sensor to the column, I mean never remove it at all unless you have fit the sensor onto the column. If you do you are completely screwed because there is basically no way to put the pin back in. I had an intuition about it so didn't do it. I wasn't able to put the pin on the old sensor at all. What I also noticed is that my old sensor was not properly aligned on the column - it was slightly off by about 1 o'clock. No idea if that just turned out to be too inaccurate after sensor got worn or if the mechanic put it on wrong after replacing balancer some time ago. But I get why it was on wrong: it was aligned like the 99-04 sensors! The 97-98 one brass contact sticking out of the senor is exactly 90 degrees off from the switch socket when properly aligned (pin in). The 99+ alignment dot mark is at 90 degrees + 1 o clock (I happen to have a 99+ sensor as well, don't remember why). It's no problem to put the pin back on the 99+, so that is why you never see 1) mentioned.
2) Plan to take out the column completely for 97-98. There is no way you'll be able to slide off the old sensor from that angle. It's not sticking, but there is a plastic grommet around it that hugs the column very tightly and you somehow need to apply force perfectly parallel to the column. It was hard enough to get it off with the column outside the car.
3) I believe the general instructions (of course for the 99+ C5s it turns out) posted everywhere mention that you'll 'push out the grommet in the firewall invariably' when pulling out the steering column, and to just put it back from the engine firewall side once you have installed the column again. I don't think so (97-98). The here white plastic grommet indeed invariable comes out with the steering column. I lubricated the column so the grommet can move freely on it. From inside the driver cabin you can easily put the grommet back onto the rubber housing. Move the steering column into position but not yet into the firewall hole. Then slide under the seat and slowly guide the top of the column through that grommet.
Last edited by nuts105; 08-28-2016 at 10:07 PM.
