erufle

I'm getting older, and with 47,000 miles on the ticker in my '01 LS1 Vert it's going to outlast me. I have one item on my bucket list, replacing the engine with one that puts out around 600hp at the crank. I also want a quick rev engine. I'm experienced with a clutch and they are easier to drive now than they used to be. But, this isn't for racing, a 6000 redline is more than enough. in fact, I've owned the car four years and put 4,000 miles on the car and don't think I've seen 5000 rpm yet. Not that I don't want to take it on the track a few times. I thought I'd buy a crate engine and have my sons help put it in. I was looking at Texas-Speed because I live in Kansas and have relatives in Texas I haven't seen in years. Anyway, I want to keep it naturally aspirated so I'm going to need some cubes. It seems I could have an LS7 built and stroked to as many as 441 cubes. An LS3 can be built and stroked to 429 cubes for $3-$4000 less. The suspension was just rebuilt so I'll need an entire new clutch setup, an intake manifold with throttlebody, and I may have to supply injectors. It has a fairly new cat-back exhaust system and ram air setup that I think I can tweak to work perfectly for this application. I figure on adding headers but if long-tubes are going to fit poorly I'll use stock or shorties. I was thinking of keeping this much of the budget under $20,000.
Any advice from the experienced?

momo20

saw that in a quick search would be a fun motor


http://www.lingenfelter.com/product/...l#.V8eyN5grKUk

530+BHP/ 530 lbs-ft of torque


Package includes:
- Engine removal, inspection and disassembly
- GM LS7 aluminum block
- Lingenfelter CNC porting and polishing of cylinder heads
- Lingenfelter double valve springs, titanium retainers, 10 degree locks & valve stem seals
- Stainless steel 2.055" intake valves
- Stainless steel 1.57" exhaust valves
- Three angle valve job, correct setting of spring tensions
- Lingenfelter designed Competition Cams hydraulic roller camshaft
- Competition Cams HD pushrods
- JE 2618 alloy forged aluminum pistons
- Callies 4340 forged steel crankshaft - 4.00" stroke
- Oliver 4340 billet steel I-Beam connecting rods
- Total Seal file fit rings, heavy duty rod & main bearings
- Head gaskets & head bolts
- Computer balanced rotating assembly
- Reassembly and blueprinting of the engine
- High Volume oil pump
- Fast composite intake manifold, 90 MM throttle body & fuel injectors
- ATI underdrive harmonic balancer & Goodyear belt
- Blackwing washable air inlet system
- Chassis dyno testing after installation
- Lingenfelter 3 year / 36,000 mile warranty
- Excellent drivability, highway mileage not adversely affected
- Lingenfelter certificate of authenticity

HD Automatic transmission rebuild - $2,995.00

Some applications may benefit from a higher stall torque converter. Please ask your salesperson for details and prices.

Normal installation time required: 3-4 weeks with prior notification. Installation time may change based on current production levels. Package inclusions are subject to change without notice.

Items on this page are not legal for sale or use on California pollution controlled motor vehicles unless they are listed with an E.O. number.

Bleachcola

$8,999.00

New 427ci

625hp and 565hp

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mll...E-0aArg38P8HAQ

CTD

My comment would be you are on the wrong track with replacing the engine. Other things to do that will make the car fun without the grief of an engine swap & the support required afterward.

erufle

Such as?

erufle

The FI engine is on my list too. I guess you have to call and talk to these guys to find out what you actually can and do get.

erufle

You always have to look at the Lingenfelters,

erufle

If nothing else I'll find a local guy (been looking a long time) to just put a stroker kit in with pistons that will increase my valve clearance. That and a new valvetrain including a pair of REALLY nice heads would make a heck of a difference. But my father-in-law did a lot of wreck recovery, on C4s mostly. he always said crate engines were the way to go. I've heard a lot from more experienced mechanics, but I'm gonna have to farm out most of the work. I'm just not able to do much work anymore. But my disability came on faster than I thought so my pockets aren't as deep as I thought they would be when I decided to bring the performance up to a level that would make me happy. But my time on this earth will be shorter as well so I wanna don't wanna regret not going the extra mile. If you think this project is a bad idea you are just going to disappoint me. Instead, show me what you believe to be the best way to get it done. My son is a good mechanic and his garage and equipment are good enough to open a Hot Rod Shop, that is with a few other investments in equipment. But he has a lift, great compressor, rotisserie, you get the picture. I have read about what a pain it is to do this or that. But, It appears to me that since people started sticking LS motors into everything the industry has stepped in to make it easier, Still, I've never done it and want to know the ins and outs. An LS427 could be a LS7 or a stroked LS3. Would I have the same motor if I put an L-92(?) head on either engine? Am I better off getting a stroked LS7 that doesn't need as much cam duration to develop horsepower? Would a smaller engine with a lightweight valvetrain and aluminum clutch be more fun for this application? I really would like opinions on this all this stuff. Its been reviewed at the forum before but things have changed a lot when it comes to engine replacement this past year or two.

CTD

Such as you don't use what you have You can build 500rw with your LS1 & don't buy the internet BS you need a miserable donkey dick to do so. Add 4:10's to your diff while you are doing a very drive-able dual disc clutch that you will have to have. If you are careful with the weight of flywheel & clutch(not to light) you will have a very responsive quick to rev combination. Most big inch deals won't do much better that low 500rw, your goal of 600 crank shaft is where that will land.

Build your LS1 valve train so it's a happy free reving & don't be worried about spooling it up.......they love to rev.

I've had both, 500rw LS1 & a 600rw 416 LS3 stroker. All the supporting suspension & chassis modifications to tame the best so it's reasonable for anyone to drive.

Not many pieces in my drive line haven't been in & out if not once many times. My list of best bang for the buck is short, the big inch motor isn't on it

erufle

Well, I got one estimate and it's almost exactly what I thought it would be. However, they are throwing in a few extras to make it a turn key engine and to help with transportation. A well done operation. I thought I'd throw a thing or two at you to get some opinions before I call them back and discuss camshafts heads and anything else you think I may be missing.. Now that I know what they recommend for a cam I realize LS1 cam-sense does not translate into LS7 cam-sense due to the 8:1 lifter ratio and the simple fact that we are gonna be moving a lot more gas and air through the thing. I'm also sure they know how much room there is between lifters and pistons. What a does camshaft with a (duration-lift): 248/256 .655/.655 (w/1.8 rockers) 114+4 LSA sound like in terms of getting my 600hp at the crank number, drivability (Manual Trans), -4 for each pistons topped with Precision Race Components CNC 265cc LS7 Small Bore Heads (in terms of compression and flow for my purposes. I don't see where they specified gasket thickness so I'll have to dust off the old calcumolater and do some cypherin'). But what makes me in all my LS7 ignorance comfortable are the use of ARP fasteners, oil restrictors, and coolant plugs that suggests to show me they know how to build an LS7 correctly. I don't know how to do it. I would need instructions "Part A goes to part B2. If you use part B1 or B3 damage will likely occur" That's the kind of thing I would run into if I built it. Anyhow, a concern of mine is compression and it seems like these motors left the factory with pretty high compression. I don't mind mixing chemicals to raise the octane rating if I have to once in a while, but I don't want to take it on trip where good gas is scarce, like here, and find out the computer and modern combustion chambers can't take care of the detonation. Does anybody have any experience with this? Do longer duration camshafts like this one help keep the actual cylinder pressure down? Take me to school y'all. Opinions?