lionelhutz

Just to note, my 1998 has code P1336 turned OFF completely so it will NEVER report it or illuminate the CEL or give a SES warning. It seems odd GM would DISABLE the code for something that was so vital to the engine functioning correctly.

Do you have a manual for a 2000 or earlier model year Corvette which describes the procedure or have you actually done the procedure on a 2000 or earlier model year Corvette? Right now, you're just repeating what someone else wrote....

Pounder

I was just giving what info I could find, take it or leave it. With a tech 2 it walks you though the process, have done it on a 07 Trailblazer !!!

NewRocketGirl

Good info, thanks all! My biggest concern is money right now. I want to try to make the 45 minute drive to the nearest dealership, if it will not cause permanent damage to the car. I am planning on having the dealer do the sensor and the relearn, since they will have the tools to do so.

Is being stranded the worst thing I can expect? I do have towing coverage. Or will it actually damage the car to drive it at this point?

Pounder

it will not damage the engine !!!!!

NewRocketGirl

Lol, I apologize for not being clear. The thread went off about the codes AFTER replacing the Crank sensor, and driving AFTER sensor replacement without re-calibration (I think).

I have not yet replaced the sensor, so I am assuming the crank sensor is bad and I want to drive the C5 to the dealer so they can replace the sensor AND do the PCM crank relearn. Will it hurt my C5 engine, crank or anything else, to drive 35 miles with a bad sensor? Or, are the symptoms (problems) described in the posts above for the P1336 code the same symptoms (problems) as having a bad sensor P0335 code?

I realize there is a risk I might only make it half way, the car can stall while driving and I might need a tow. I am willing to take that part of the risk, but not the risk of engine or crank damage due to a BAD sensor.

lionelhutz

The worst that can happen will be getting stranded.

NewRocketGirl

Update - sorry for the delay. As previously stated, I have not had the money to get this problem looked at by a dealer and I don't want to get stranded right now.

I did have a friend look and find another symptom of interest. We are wondering if this could be what is causing a host of the other codes I have been posting about.

At first, we heard a jingling sound that may be the belt tensioner. If the mount for the belt tensioner is touched, there is some vibration. When the belt tensioner itself is touched, there is serious vibration which appears to be caused by the the harmonic damper.
Here is a video:


Can anyone confirm or provide any further insight?

Pounder

common issue with the LS1, don't really know if yours is bad enough, but I would think it's going to get worse. Some others no doubt will pipe in with their experience. Again not a cheap repair if you have someone else do your work. I'm one of the lucky ones mine has no wobble at all.

K-Spaz

I did a new one on my car a couple years back and it really wasn't a fun project. Not the end of the world but was a lot of work. Required several tools, one for locking the flywheel which I was able to make at work, a puller and an install tool which I also made at work. Also going to need either a 250 ft-lb torque wrench or some other way to verify the torque on the bolt. Oh, will need a new bolt too, they're one time use. I got the re-usable ARP bolt for I think $30. I'm one of the rare ones who put on a stock replacement. It worked fine for my car for a couple years and it on that motor now. I think it was about $65 for a Dorman pulley. I put a Powerbond on my new engine and that's what I'm running now. I'd say the quality is much better, but the last one lasted 95k miles so on the stock motor I didn't see a need to pay for higher quality.

The reason your tensioner had issues was because of that pulley.

It's not a life n death thing that it needs done right away, but it will tend to eat tensioners and can give a bad vibration in the car, especially at higher RPMs.

PS. This isn't causing any codes. Just a shake.

NewRocketGirl

I am just adding another diagnostic I did today. Added Techron. Let it run. It stalled after about 8 minutes. Codes:
BO-RFA U1096H Loss of Communications with IPC
BO-RFA U1064H Loss of Communications with BCM
BO-RFA U1016H Loss of Class II Communication with VCM
I am really just trying a few things before I get it towed and want to keep track of what I tried.

I was told earlier that these codes are meaningless, but they keep coming up time after time, after stalls, when no other codes show.

I restarted and let the car run with me in it. About every 2 minutes there was a serious mis-fire. This happened about 3 times. On the fourth time, it completely stalled. No codes.

NewRocketGirl

Just checked the gas cap for pressure after the last stall. I just thought maybe 2 minutes was about how long it takes for the tank to pressurize, then the pressure slips out past a bad gasket, causes a skip, and then starts to re-pressurize again. It does have a dry rot on the gasket. Definitely on the edge. Ordering a new one now. I am wondering if this caused my check engine light and/or the skip. Gas cap says it can, if it is not on properly.

K-Spaz

If you are getting these codes without disconnecting the battery, then it's time to either investigate the battery cables for issues, or start fixing grounds. But something is losing power. The are meaningless in a certain context, but in your case they might be indicative of a real issue with the 12v source. (Battery/ground)

NewRocketGirl

This 2 minute interval between engine skips; I am researching what might be cycling and/or resetting at that time during a sitting idle. The AC is off. Maybe one of the catalytic converters is getting hot and something releases the heat at regular intervals? Engine fan? I did not hear anything additional from the fan coming on or anything else for that matter. Just a bad engine miss at idle (600-700 rpm). No emissions codes or O2 codes. Hmmmm.

NewRocketGirl

I just tried to do as you recommended. The behavior was a little different today. Also, it is cooler outside today than yesterday, if it has anything to do with it. I did put Techron in yesterday.

Today, I set a timer, made sure codes were clear, started the car. It ran okay up to about 13 minutes, when it got a little rough, but no big stumble. No codes. I gave it a little gas to bring the rpms up to about 2000 for about 30 seconds, then let it go on its own again. No codes. At about 19 minutes, the car abruptly stalled with no warning. No codes. There were no significant stumbles during that 19 minutes.

I'll try it again now that the car is warmer.

NewRocketGirl

No codes. Ran slightly rougher while warm. No codes while running. Car abruptly stalled at 5.5 minutes, no warning, no codes.

NewRocketGirl

Yes, we did to the battery diagnostics, checks, load test and reattached cables as suggested. I have posted all codes encountered. I am going to pick up the gas cap replacement next. I do want to have the tranny switch done no matter what, it is just difficult getting the car anywhere unless I can drive it out. Still thinking on that...

K-Spaz

If all this other stuff isn't panning out, my next thing to try would probably be to get the car jacked up fairly well and get under it, then do as much inspection as possible on all the wiring on the car. Look for damage from stuff like running over a stone that smashed wiring or critters eating the insulation on them. They love to eat wires. If one of them ate a bunch of insulation off wires and it intermittently makes contact and shorts, well anything can happen. Use an inspection mirror and flashlight above the transmission and torque tube. A lot of wiring is out where you can get to it to see it, which unfortunately means it's also where rocks and critters can too.

Most times when stuff starts going wonky like this it ends up being broken wires, loose connections or stuff like that. When components actually break but the wiring is ok, the computer can usually tell you what is wrong. When the wiring isn't ok, all bets are off.

NewRocketGirl

I had to move the car today to do some yard work. As soon as I put it into reverse, it stalled and threw a crank sensor code, and could not be restarted until I reset the code. This is the second crank sensor code that has been thrown. Both times, it was when I put the car into reverse. When the car stalls in drive or park, there is no code.

Since the actual code is associated with putting the car into reverse, I just went out again and tried forward-reverse about 3 times. No codes no issues. Although the crank sensor code has only happened after putting the car into reverse, it does not happen every time I put the car into reverse, and never a code when the car is in park or drive and it stalls.

As mentioned by others, we need to eliminate the transmission switch sensor from the equation. We are trying to find a YouTube on how to tighten the switch. Does anyone know of a good YouTube or photo of what to look for?

Greg_E

Here is my take on this. The PCM and CPK circuit is the same for 1999-2002 (PCM changed in 2003). Unless the battery dies with the ignition on, or the PCM is unplugged with power on, and a couple other scenarios, the crank sensor system variation calibration remains in the PCM. Unless that calibration is lost the vehicle should still start after the CPK Sensor replacement. I suspect that in those first two years GM did not realize the need to do the relearn or it was just omitted from manuals for those first two years and was added in 2001.

Here is the list of things that would necessitate a CKP relearn.

"The CKP system variation learn procedure is also required when the following service procedures have been performed, regardless of whether DTC P0315 is set:
An engine replacement
A PCM replacement
A harmonic balancer replacement
A crankshaft replacement
A CKP sensor replacement
Any engine repairs which disturb the crankshaft to CKP sensor relationship"

If you are replacing the CKP on any 1999-2000+ I think the prudent thing to do would be to do the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure.

To the O. P.
Perhaps you can get the sensor replaced locally and then drive it to to your shop for the relearn.

NewRocketGirl

Update: I had the Crank Sensor replaced in December and car has been running flawlessly ever since. Just to provide an answer to the symptoms related to the Crank Sensor on this thread, I had a Vette guy change out the sensor. The symptoms were not just caused by a bad Crank Sensor, but that at some point, the engine had been lifted. When it was reseated, it was pinching something related to the crank sensor, a cable or wire or something. When the new crank sensor and cable were put back in properly without the pinch, any and all engine faultering and stalling disappeared.

I had the car out for a 4 hour drive 2 days ago, no issues at all.

As many have mentioned about the harmonic balancer on this thread, it is not an issue. It will need replacing at some point, but is not critical at the moment.