Ground Locations
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Ground Locations
I posted this in the ground sticky but haven't received any responses so I'm hoping that posting it in the forum itself will help me get some answers.
My 2000 C5 has been having the standard electric gremlins like the blinkers working intermittently, occasional active handling warning and charging issues that more or less come with this car after years of ownership. The mechanic I have helping me is a very thorough and precise technician (he's actually an aircraft mechanic), however we are having problems locating some of the other grounds to clean. We have successfully located and cleaned some locations but cannot locate 2,5,12,13. Please keep in mind that my car is modded so it's quite possible that additional hardware is blocking the view of something obvious on other stock c5's. Also, where is 11 supposed to connect to?
Any assistance you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Or anyone else who happens to have these answers.
Thank you very much for all of your time spent and dedication helping others.
My 2000 C5 has been having the standard electric gremlins like the blinkers working intermittently, occasional active handling warning and charging issues that more or less come with this car after years of ownership. The mechanic I have helping me is a very thorough and precise technician (he's actually an aircraft mechanic), however we are having problems locating some of the other grounds to clean. We have successfully located and cleaned some locations but cannot locate 2,5,12,13. Please keep in mind that my car is modded so it's quite possible that additional hardware is blocking the view of something obvious on other stock c5's. Also, where is 11 supposed to connect to?
Any assistance you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Or anyone else who happens to have these answers.
Thank you very much for all of your time spent and dedication helping others.
#2
1/4 mile/AutoX
2 and 5 are on the frame rails, pass side inside batt box, drivers below the washer tank toward the firewall. the others are on the intake but if it's modded ???????
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ForceFedC5 (10-18-2016)
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I think we've found those. 11, 12 & 13 are on the intake? Intake to the wiring harness or the frame? The ls1 intake has been replaced with an ls3 intake, not sure if that matters?
Last edited by ForceFedC5; 10-18-2016 at 09:02 PM.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#7
1/4 mile/AutoX
#9
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#10
I just had the sad experience of having my ignition switch, tumblers and springs go bad and since the car was not driveable I had it towed to dealer on four wheel dolly. When I went to lock car as I had to leave it outdoors, the power door locks wouldn't work. Further investigation led to discovering the windows wouldn't go down either by the switch or when activating the top lowering button, and the passengers mirror was no longer adjustable electrically (drivers worked ok).
Dealers has suggested that I replace both door modules. That is a lot of money! To me it seems so unlikely that all these electrical gremlins would appear at the same time and not have a common cause. Should I be repairing grounds or replacing parts?
Dealers has suggested that I replace both door modules. That is a lot of money! To me it seems so unlikely that all these electrical gremlins would appear at the same time and not have a common cause. Should I be repairing grounds or replacing parts?
#11
I'll bet they would suggest replacing the DCM's at about $600 new per module PLUS labor to install.
Start with getting your ignition cylinder repaired and leave your "apparent" DCM issues until you get the car out of the Stealership.
If you determine that the DCM's are bad (HIGHLY unlikely both would fail at the same time but theoretically possible) you can find exchange services that will take your DCM and for around $100 provide you with a reconditioned DCM. Here is one such service used by some Forum members:
www.autoclockrepair.com
Check Ebay for others.........
Here is some ground info that may help you:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...locations.html
Start with getting your ignition cylinder repaired and leave your "apparent" DCM issues until you get the car out of the Stealership.
If you determine that the DCM's are bad (HIGHLY unlikely both would fail at the same time but theoretically possible) you can find exchange services that will take your DCM and for around $100 provide you with a reconditioned DCM. Here is one such service used by some Forum members:
www.autoclockrepair.com
Check Ebay for others.........
Here is some ground info that may help you:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...locations.html
Great feedback which I will followup on.
Thanks!!!
professorjim