yellowshark454

Hi guys, I am in the process of fixing an ignition problem. I have extracted the ignition lock cylinder and I want to check the internal wiring and clean the two sensor plates. After that I will extract the ignition switch, if needed I have access to an ignition switch restored using that excellent post from Bill Curlee.




The pic shows three parts; in the middle the “Main Housing”, on the left with the attached wire what I will call the “Sensor Housing”, and on the right protruding from the “Main housing” is what I will call the “Lock Mechanism”. I have looked all over the Net, here and elsewhere for details on how to disassemble the Lock Cylinder but can find nothing so I am hoping someone can help me.

1. To remove the Sensor Housing do I just put a screwdriver into the gap (marked by red arrow) between the Main Housing and the Sensor Housing and just use brute force to prise the two pieces apart?

2. How do I remove the Lock Mechanism from the Main Housing?

3. It may be that I end up buying a new Lock Cylinder. In the adverts I have looked at, some of them, not all, say that the Ignition Lock Cylinder needs to be taken to a dealership for coding. I do not understand what “coding” means in this context. I have always thought that the sensor reads the resistance from the key pellet and sends it to the EBCM which validates the key, i.e. the Ignition Lock Cylinder does not do anything. Or is it setting the tumblers to match your existing ignition keys? If so why not take it to Locksmith – we do not have really have Corvette dealerships in England.

4. Do all Ignition Lock Cylinders all have the same set of tumblers, just set differently; or do they have different tumblers? I am just trying to understand how I match my keys to a new Cylinder or whether I have to get new keys cut – I have seen adverts where the kit contains a key without a resistor that you use as the template for cutting a new key with the correct resistor.

TIA for any help you can give me, Pete

3sACROWD

I cannot comment on how to disassemble what you are referencing. The coding as I understand it is the tumblers and a good locksmith can perform the task quickly if they have the components. I recently asked a friend to drop off my new cylinder and my existing key with the expectation that it would be a couple of days. They made the changes within 15 minutes.

yellowshark454

Hi 3sACROWD, did you buy a NEW cylinder with tumblers and springs already present or did you take it to a dealership first to get the tumblers/springs/key? I ask because I have only found used items which are the complete package.

yellowshark454

Thanks for that 8VETTE7, most helpful. Yes I see, those tabs look very fragile! Somewhat of a nerve racking job methinks. Your excellent pic shows exactly what I wanted to get to. .

Yup I now see the tiny button – that was foxing me. Also this morning I found in volume 1 of my FSM a small section on fitting tumblers to the lock.

So I am now changing tack and have found and ordered a complete 2nd hand set of key/ignition lock cylinder/ignition switch from SMC in the States (allegedly low mileage but I have used them before so feel comfortable))and also a local locksmith who is comfortable with resetting the tumblers to match my current keys.

Assuming that all goes well and fixes the problem I will then have a go at refurbing my current sensor plates, and indeed will do if the locksmith fails.

You said “our country” so I take it you are from the UK. Right now I am not sure how we can get NEW ignition lock cylinders. The only ones I have found are from AC Delco and seem to not have tumblers and springs. We do not have local Chevy dealers and I am not convinced it would be easy to find a locksmith here who could/would be willing to go to the trouble of acquiring these.

yellowshark454

Lol thought that might be what happened