Looking for new cam ideas.. Anyone good with this?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Looking for new cam ideas.. Anyone good with this?
Looking to change the cam in my C5Z, Something a little more towards max effort for my setup but still streetable... Talked to a couple different shops and bounced off what others were saying and I would like to see what others think...
My build setup now is
*Forged Pistons, Rods, Crank LS7 427ci 4.125 Block 11.25:1
*CNC L92/LS3 heads with Del West 2.17/1.6 Valves "5 Angle Valve Job" 279cc Ports, 96cc Exhaust, 67cc Chambers. These heads flowed 356cfm @ .700 on a 4.04 Bore, With a 4.125 they are closer to 365-370 on a 4.125
*Current CamComp 3 bolt Cam 234/240 .598 .608 112 LSA Smaller End Medium Size Cam
*ARH 1 7/8 Headers
* Ported LS3 Intake and LS2 TB
Trans:
*RPM Stage 6 4L65 With a PI Triple disk 3200 Converter
I know my Converter is a bit tight and I am willing to re-stall it to say a 3800 depending on cam if needed...
LG says my build can stand to gain probably 70hp with one of their G7X2/3 ect cams which is a max effort but they would like to see me run a larger converter...
BTR Says they think the best cam for my setup is their "LS3 NA Stage 4 Cam" 233/250 .619 .595 113+5 lsa which would allow me to keep my converter and PSI .625 springs. Basically pulling the cam only and changing.
Texas Speed didnt like the cam BTR suggested and says they dont understand why shops use such a huge overlap and that cam is small. He suggested something in the lines of a 247/255 .629 .629 112+3. Says they like to see larger cube motors inake in the 24x range minimum...
Anyone have any insight on the subject, Just looking to maximize my setup as much as possible. Car is primarily street driven with 1/4 track duty...
Thanks...
My build setup now is
*Forged Pistons, Rods, Crank LS7 427ci 4.125 Block 11.25:1
*CNC L92/LS3 heads with Del West 2.17/1.6 Valves "5 Angle Valve Job" 279cc Ports, 96cc Exhaust, 67cc Chambers. These heads flowed 356cfm @ .700 on a 4.04 Bore, With a 4.125 they are closer to 365-370 on a 4.125
*Current CamComp 3 bolt Cam 234/240 .598 .608 112 LSA Smaller End Medium Size Cam
*ARH 1 7/8 Headers
* Ported LS3 Intake and LS2 TB
Trans:
*RPM Stage 6 4L65 With a PI Triple disk 3200 Converter
I know my Converter is a bit tight and I am willing to re-stall it to say a 3800 depending on cam if needed...
LG says my build can stand to gain probably 70hp with one of their G7X2/3 ect cams which is a max effort but they would like to see me run a larger converter...
BTR Says they think the best cam for my setup is their "LS3 NA Stage 4 Cam" 233/250 .619 .595 113+5 lsa which would allow me to keep my converter and PSI .625 springs. Basically pulling the cam only and changing.
Texas Speed didnt like the cam BTR suggested and says they dont understand why shops use such a huge overlap and that cam is small. He suggested something in the lines of a 247/255 .629 .629 112+3. Says they like to see larger cube motors inake in the 24x range minimum...
Anyone have any insight on the subject, Just looking to maximize my setup as much as possible. Car is primarily street driven with 1/4 track duty...
Thanks...
Last edited by Breze84; 10-24-2016 at 10:59 AM.
#2
Supporting Vendor
Looks like you have a pretty good setup going.
From what it sounds like you're looking to do we would recommend the BTR Stage 4 LS3 camshaft, which as BTR noted will work with your current stall converter.
If you wanted to get a little more radical you can run something like 247/258 @113. It would not be ideal with your current stall but it would make for a more max effort cam if you're willing to upgrade the stall converter.
We stock Both BTR cams as well as our own cams.
Give us a call 310-326-2399
or shoot us an email
Parts@americanheritageperformance.com
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/
From what it sounds like you're looking to do we would recommend the BTR Stage 4 LS3 camshaft, which as BTR noted will work with your current stall converter.
If you wanted to get a little more radical you can run something like 247/258 @113. It would not be ideal with your current stall but it would make for a more max effort cam if you're willing to upgrade the stall converter.
We stock Both BTR cams as well as our own cams.
Give us a call 310-326-2399
or shoot us an email
Parts@americanheritageperformance.com
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/
Last edited by American Heritage 3; 10-21-2016 at 07:46 PM.
#3
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
I agree your setup looks very spot on--Remember vendors are always trying to make a sale
Lift is not as important as duration at .050 when it comes to a cam choice
It all depends on where you plan to run your engine consistently in the RPM range
The more duration you have----The higher you move the power band up--The power band is described as the RPM range between "peak TQ" and "peak RPM"
This is where when you shift you don't want the RPM's to drop below peak TQ and you shift at peak RPM---This gives you the best performance from you engine as it is pulling all the time and making power but never goes static
I would guess your current cam has peak TQ about 5000 RPM and peak HP about 7000 RPM --If you choose to run it that way and you can with your current gearing leave it be
Going to a larger duration cam would raise the peak TQ to maybe 5500 and peak RPM shift point to 7500---also depends on how hard you want to run your engine -- but again gearing becomes important as it becomes a trial and error experience to try to get your engine to run in the "powerband" all the time when going thru the gears
Lift is not as important as duration at .050 when it comes to a cam choice
It all depends on where you plan to run your engine consistently in the RPM range
The more duration you have----The higher you move the power band up--The power band is described as the RPM range between "peak TQ" and "peak RPM"
This is where when you shift you don't want the RPM's to drop below peak TQ and you shift at peak RPM---This gives you the best performance from you engine as it is pulling all the time and making power but never goes static
I would guess your current cam has peak TQ about 5000 RPM and peak HP about 7000 RPM --If you choose to run it that way and you can with your current gearing leave it be
Going to a larger duration cam would raise the peak TQ to maybe 5500 and peak RPM shift point to 7500---also depends on how hard you want to run your engine -- but again gearing becomes important as it becomes a trial and error experience to try to get your engine to run in the "powerband" all the time when going thru the gears
#4
AMP Racing
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Washington TWP NJ
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2017 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12
I have two cams I can offer cheap.
Both ran 9s in my LS7/427/4L60/3.73 setup.
When I get home I'll get the specs and PM you if you're interested.
Both ran 9s in my LS7/427/4L60/3.73 setup.
When I get home I'll get the specs and PM you if you're interested.
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Breze84 (10-24-2016)
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Looks like you have a pretty good setup going.
From what it sounds like you're looking to do we would recommend the BTR Stage 4 LS3 camshaft, which as BTR noted will work with your current stall converter.
If you wanted to get a little more radical you can run something like 247/258 @113. It would not be ideal with your current stall but it would make for a more max effort cam if you're willing to upgrade the stall converter.
We stock Both BTR cams as well as our own cams.
Give us a call 310-326-2399
or shoot us an email
Parts@americanheritageperformance.com
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/
From what it sounds like you're looking to do we would recommend the BTR Stage 4 LS3 camshaft, which as BTR noted will work with your current stall converter.
If you wanted to get a little more radical you can run something like 247/258 @113. It would not be ideal with your current stall but it would make for a more max effort cam if you're willing to upgrade the stall converter.
We stock Both BTR cams as well as our own cams.
Give us a call 310-326-2399
or shoot us an email
Parts@americanheritageperformance.com
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/
I agree your setup looks very spot on--Remember vendors are always trying to make a sale
Lift is not as important as duration at .050 when it comes to a cam choice
It all depends on where you plan to run your engine consistently in the RPM range
The more duration you have----The higher you move the power band up--The power band is described as the RPM range between "peak TQ" and "peak RPM"
This is where when you shift you don't want the RPM's to drop below peak TQ and you shift at peak RPM---This gives you the best performance from you engine as it is pulling all the time and making power but never goes static
I would guess your current cam has peak TQ about 5000 RPM and peak HP about 7000 RPM --If you choose to run it that way and you can with your current gearing leave it be
Going to a larger duration cam would raise the peak TQ to maybe 5500 and peak RPM shift point to 7500---also depends on how hard you want to run your engine -- but again gearing becomes important as it becomes a trial and error experience to try to get your engine to run in the "powerband" all the time when going thru the gears
Lift is not as important as duration at .050 when it comes to a cam choice
It all depends on where you plan to run your engine consistently in the RPM range
The more duration you have----The higher you move the power band up--The power band is described as the RPM range between "peak TQ" and "peak RPM"
This is where when you shift you don't want the RPM's to drop below peak TQ and you shift at peak RPM---This gives you the best performance from you engine as it is pulling all the time and making power but never goes static
I would guess your current cam has peak TQ about 5000 RPM and peak HP about 7000 RPM --If you choose to run it that way and you can with your current gearing leave it be
Going to a larger duration cam would raise the peak TQ to maybe 5500 and peak RPM shift point to 7500---also depends on how hard you want to run your engine -- but again gearing becomes important as it becomes a trial and error experience to try to get your engine to run in the "powerband" all the time when going thru the gears
http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps2a57c6a7.jpg
Last edited by Breze84; 10-24-2016 at 10:39 AM.
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: CA.
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
Most stock LS cams have an LSA in the 116-119 range----
A higher LSA gives your engine a more broad power band-- suited best for the street and drive ability---It also allows more of a smooth idle by having less overlap
I lower LSA makes your power band more "peaky" and more narrow---This is suited best for engines that typically run at higher RPM's and ran in a more narrow higher
RPM range-
Which one makes more power ?? Really depends on how drive your car--On a street/strip/autocross car the lower LSA's will make just somewhat more TQ and HP when driven in the narrower powerband-----Lower LSA's will also give your car more of a lope at idle but drive ability can suffer without special tuning
A higher LSA gives your engine a more broad power band-- suited best for the street and drive ability---It also allows more of a smooth idle by having less overlap
I lower LSA makes your power band more "peaky" and more narrow---This is suited best for engines that typically run at higher RPM's and ran in a more narrow higher
RPM range-
Which one makes more power ?? Really depends on how drive your car--On a street/strip/autocross car the lower LSA's will make just somewhat more TQ and HP when driven in the narrower powerband-----Lower LSA's will also give your car more of a lope at idle but drive ability can suffer without special tuning