Sam Handwich

.... it almost became an ordeal.

I bought used AR headers off someone here on the forum 1 3/4". Then I took them to a local shop for ceramic coating. Inside and out. Headers and pipes. (I already have the Ti mufflers).
I learned a lot doing this. My wife asked the "if you had it to do over again" question, and I said that I would take it to a real Corvette shop and pay them to do it.
So I am glad it is over. I did it 100% by myself in my garage. No air tools. Here are a few things I can point out:

Go ahead and buy new spark plugs and wires before you get started.
Once you have the car on jackstands remove the front wheels. You will appreciate the improved access.
Pay really close attention to the wires on the passenger side. I had crumbly split-loom and the insulation on several wires was cracked. I had to splice and solder 6 or 7 wires. I don't know if some strange intermittent messages in the DIC might be related to the wiring problems, but I could have just slapped electrical tape on there. That would have been the wrong shortcut for sure.
I bought silicone coated fiberglass sleeve for the wires I repaired; put the wires in the sleeve, then in some new split loom. Taped the split loom like they do it at the factory. And then put a thermal wrap product on the outside of the split loom (or wires if not in loom). Finally, I used stainless steel wire and plastic tie-lock wraps to secure the thermal wrap.
Locating the O2 connectors a safe distance away from the headers is just a PITA. Used stainless steel wire here also.
I did not have a helper. I developed a little trick to give me an extra set of hands: I had a very stout piece of bungee cord rope, about 4 feet long, but no hooks on the ends. Once I got the headers into the engine compartment I passed the end of the bungee around a couple of the header tubes, tied an overhand knot in both ends of the cord/rope at the same time, and then hung that loop over one of the hood stops (at outer corner of hood near windshield). VERY HANDY as it gave me some play to move the headers around when I had to re-install the starter, etc., etc., etc.
Flare nut wrench at 7/8" is just the ticket for dealing with the O2 sensors.

I know there are lots of other posts out there about doing this work. I figured it was a big project, but really had no appreciation for the effort involved.
I want to note that I have an AutoCal and related package from Chuck at Corvettes of Westchester. So once I create a new data log I will send to him for a new tune. Chuck and one of his guys were really helpful in answering "how to" and tricks of the trade questions I had throughout the install. Good man that Chuck.
(I already told one of my C5 neighbors that when he does his I will be out of town.) And I will say again that it is worth the money to have a real Corvette shop do the work.

Hope there is some value to other C5 owner/s in my comments.

UPDATE on 12-07-2016 + The oil dipstick tube - I had to file a good amount of material off the flange where the bolt passes thru to the engine block. It just would not draw up against the block. Plus the factory bolt has an integral washer design and you may need a trimmer bolt head. In my case the threads in the block got slightly bodged-up, so I found another bolt with same thread pattern but smaller bolt-head. After several passes with my file I got the attachment flange to clear the header flange.

Pounder

grantv

Too bad it wasn't a positive experience overall for you. I installed mine myself a couple winters ago, always have done projects myself (feel more accomplished, it's mine feeling after; installed a 300#+ beam in my basement a few years ago... by myself).
I scraped my knuckles, got frustrated a few times, cursed TSP maybe once or twice, but in the end have always been happy I did an install.

Vetteman Jack

Thanks for posting the tips. I'll save them for future reference should I decide to tackle the job of LT headers install.

neutron82

it might have seemed like a pain at the time but later on when you look back on it the experience won't seem so bad and you will have some pride knowing that you did it by yourself... and now you know why some people charge so much to install them

Sam Handwich

I am already glad that I did it for all the reasons you mention. I consider that it is a form of tuition - the school of scraped knuckles, etc.

Thanks for the affirmation!!

Millenium Z06

I did my LG super Pros in my garage on jack stands. Didn't really seem like a big deal to me I think I did it in about 4 hours

Sam Handwich

Yeah. You Texas guys know how to wrench. Haha ha

Millenium Z06

The 02 sensor rewire seemed like a bigger chore to me, they didn't have the harness extensions when i did mine

Sam Handwich

seriously? Someone makes a harness extension?
Only took me 3 minutes. Did it with my eyes closed.

Snark...

WildRide357

Hmmm just bought some used ARH headers myself and gearing up to do this. Not what I wanted to read at this point LOL. Went with ARH because they are supposed to be the easiest to install per my reading. And I'm sure the clutch on this car will let go sooner or later and require the headers to come off.

feeder82

you will not have the fitment issues with the ARH, the o2 sensors are located different

neutron82

the batwing oil pan is the biggest obstacle in my experience, the sides of the pan that stick out always make contact with the front primaries when trying to install the headers and it would be sooooo much easier if they weren't there

sean.b

im only chiming in so that people arent afraid to DIY.. this wasnt that bad to me, either. not knocking the OP, the job is a total bitch the first time. the second time and later you look back and wonder why it was so bad the first time.

if it was a $200 bill from a shop, and i lacked a well equipped garage, sure. $400 or more i'd say call a friend and knock it out in an evening. i mean if you spent $400 on tools, you'd have enough tools to not only get it high enough, but do all of the work and still have a jack, stands, and ratchet set.