C5 Z06 180 degree header build thread
01-27-2017, 01:15 PM
#41
I see where you're going where the header will look like a typical header and the magic is in the collector. But wouldn't it be better to build the collectors so you don't end up with the 3" outlets directly above each other?
With the one you've started, put the collector outlet to the right and down compared to the 4 inlet tubes. Then, ideally after you build the 2nd one you just flip it and they will nest so the 2 rows of inlets are above each other while the outlets are beside each other. The end result would be that the inlets and outlets would be in the same or similar locations as the 4-into-1 collectors you first started with.
With the one you've started, put the collector outlet to the right and down compared to the 4 inlet tubes. Then, ideally after you build the 2nd one you just flip it and they will nest so the 2 rows of inlets are above each other while the outlets are beside each other. The end result would be that the inlets and outlets would be in the same or similar locations as the 4-into-1 collectors you first started with.
I am not worthy to sweep out tinmatt's garage. I guess you could apply?
just kiddin' bro.
Please don't take it personally. 
01-27-2017, 01:22 PM
#42
1/4 mile/AutoX
Seems like your setup would cause much more heat in the tunnel area ??? issue or not ???? not a street car ???
01-27-2017, 04:16 PM
#43
Instructor
Thread Starter
With the one you've started, put the collector outlet to the right and down compared to the 4 inlet tubes. Then, ideally after you build the 2nd one you just flip it and they will nest so the 2 rows of inlets are above each other while the outlets are beside each other. The end result would be that the inlets and outlets would be in the same or similar locations as the 4-into-1 collectors you first started with.
Not trying to be a dick, I do appreciate your and everyone's constructive criticism. When I get to the y pipe idea currently floating in my mind you might appreciate how I will get the stacked configuration turned to the side by side needed to mate to the factory mufflers.
01-27-2017, 04:20 PM
#44
Instructor
Thread Starter
It is a street car but it won't see heavy stop and go traffic. If I have to go anywhere that I think I'll be sitting in traffic as the exhaust cooks the interior, I'll drive something else instead.
01-27-2017, 06:17 PM
#45
1/4 mile/AutoX
I not laughing at you just a observation, I love what your doing and would love to hear it when done !!!
01-28-2017, 07:43 PM
#47
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks again for the kind words 
Putting the jig to work one tube at a time.
That's one tacked up. Beer was required for the tedious fitting. Cut, grind, true up on the belt sander, check on the jig, repeat again and again and.....
Putting the jig to work one tube at a time.
That's one tacked up. Beer was required for the tedious fitting. Cut, grind, true up on the belt sander, check on the jig, repeat again and again and.....
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LightningBrett (08-16-2021)
01-28-2017, 08:09 PM
#48
You are a talented guy.
01-29-2017, 09:18 AM
#49
Team Owner
01-30-2017, 11:39 AM
#50
Drifting
*looks at cutoff wheel and MIG in the corner of the garage and cries
That is some awesome fitup work.
That is some awesome fitup work.
01-30-2017, 12:35 PM
#51
Drifting
I wonder what these would sound like if the exhaust had some j pipes installed to reduce some of the really low bass tones. This is a cool build !!!
Are you going to do anything to make them somewhat easy to remove and reinstall after they are all mocked up
Are you going to do anything to make them somewhat easy to remove and reinstall after they are all mocked up
01-30-2017, 12:52 PM
#52
Drifting
Yes there is a J-pipe thread going on too with goal to reduce low tones. I will also be experiment with a double x-pipe setup during the summer (one in front of cats, one behind cats).
Wow I can only dream 180 headers, dual x-pipes, J-pipes in the back. Scream like a banshee!!!! The closest we will ever get to a Ferrari sound without flat plane crank
02-01-2017, 08:17 PM
#53
Instructor
Thread Starter
Not far from what I started with. For this project, I'm borrowing tools, tig welder from work and belt sander from dear old dad. Keep collecting tools, it's a never ending quest!
02-01-2017, 08:21 PM
#54
Instructor
Thread Starter
The should be easy to remove and reinstall. A header on each side and slipfit collectors with bolt or spring tabs to pull it all together.
02-01-2017, 08:22 PM
#55
Instructor
Thread Starter
Amazing work so far!!
Yes there is a J-pipe thread going on too with goal to reduce low tones. I will also be experiment with a double x-pipe setup during the summer (one in front of cats, one behind cats).
Wow I can only dream 180 headers, dual x-pipes, J-pipes in the back. Scream like a banshee!!!! The closest we will ever get to a Ferrari sound without flat plane crank
Yes there is a J-pipe thread going on too with goal to reduce low tones. I will also be experiment with a double x-pipe setup during the summer (one in front of cats, one behind cats).
Wow I can only dream 180 headers, dual x-pipes, J-pipes in the back. Scream like a banshee!!!! The closest we will ever get to a Ferrari sound without flat plane crank
All things to experiment with. Glad to see others on this forum with similar music making goals!
02-01-2017, 08:23 PM
#56
Instructor
Thread Starter
A little progress. Both Collector merges tacked up.
I'm surprised no one has asked how I'm going to weld the tubes together where they first meet at the merge. They are too close together to make a full weld around the outside and there is no way to get a torch through the 1 5/8" x 3 1/4" oval exit to weld on the inside... Pencil torch!
Made a sample megaphone from 16ga. carbon steel at work to make sure it would work. Plasma cut on our CNC plasma table from our Vulcan ductwork and fitting software and then step broke up in our press brake. 1 3/4" x 3 1/2" o.d. to 2 1/8" x 3 1/2" o.d. to match the oval tubing I plan to use to start the X pipe with. First shot and after the tubes are trimmed to length, it should fit perfect. I'll make two more from 16ga. 304 stainless without the nasty brake mark notches tomorrow.
I'm surprised no one has asked how I'm going to weld the tubes together where they first meet at the merge. They are too close together to make a full weld around the outside and there is no way to get a torch through the 1 5/8" x 3 1/4" oval exit to weld on the inside... Pencil torch!
Made a sample megaphone from 16ga. carbon steel at work to make sure it would work. Plasma cut on our CNC plasma table from our Vulcan ductwork and fitting software and then step broke up in our press brake. 1 3/4" x 3 1/2" o.d. to 2 1/8" x 3 1/2" o.d. to match the oval tubing I plan to use to start the X pipe with. First shot and after the tubes are trimmed to length, it should fit perfect. I'll make two more from 16ga. 304 stainless without the nasty brake mark notches tomorrow.
02-02-2017, 02:38 PM
#59
On the O2 sensor note, I'm guessing there will be issues do to the bank 1 sensor will now be reading cylinders 1,4,6,and 7 and bank 2 will be reading cylinders 2,3,5,and 8. I'm in no way a tuner but have read that through HPtuners, the banks can be assigned with different cylinders, fingers crossed, this holds true. If any tuners happening to be reading this could chime in, it would be much appreciated.
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Tinmatt (02-06-2017)
02-02-2017, 02:41 PM
#60
Tech Contributor
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
SIMPLY AMAZING! My Brother; YOU ARE SERIOUSLY TALENTED! 
That's a serious NEST OF SNAKES!
Other than the sound, what HP/TQ advantages would you expect from the 180 deg design over a set of tuned racing headers?
Bill
That's a serious NEST OF SNAKES!
Other than the sound, what HP/TQ advantages would you expect from the 180 deg design over a set of tuned racing headers?
Bill
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Chuck CoW (02-02-2017)