When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I need to do the clutch on my car. It's currently on my dad's 2-post lift as I work on the engine. I'm starting to game plan how to accomplish the clutch while on the lift, but I'm having trouble.
Looks like I'll need 3 high lift trans jacks. I have one, and really don't want to buy 2 more because I'll never use them. BUT, I don't see any other way to support the engine, remove the rear subframe AND then the driveline without it. What am I missing? Anyone else do a clutch using a 2-post and have some suggestions?
Well, you don't have to have the lift all the way up to first, remove the rear suspension and transmission from the torque tube and then remove the torque tube up in the air followed by the bell housing.
The engine will not necessarily be supported by anything but the motor mounts. At least, mine has not been the two times I've done my clutch without a lift.
So, do the preliminary work loosening bolts up in the air, drop it down, support the rear with a jack, slide it to the rear, and lift the car. Now back in the air remove the torque tube and bell housing.
Keep in mind that after removing the torque tube and transaxle the car will be VERY nose heavy on the 2 post lift. I placed a jack under the front cross member to prevent the car from tilting forward.
Do you have a engine hoist (cherry picker)? If so you can make a cradle that mounts on the lift to support the transaxle. That's how I did mine.
I made a setup that mounts on the engine hoist that attaches to the rear crossmember assy that allowed me to lower it by myself. I added a linkage that would keep the trans/torque tube level while it was lowered but it's not necessary if you have an extra set of hands to help line things up. I did this by myself so I added it. I used another stand to support the trans while I lowered the cradle.
I borrowed an attachment a friend had made the I used to remove the trans/torque tube assy. Since I was working alone I added a front support using a roller cart.
These 2 tools allowed me to do the clutch job solo and still be safe. Once I started removing major chunks the car was supported by stands and did not move until the big pieces were re-installed so the weight stayed balanced on the lift.
Well, you don't have to have the lift all the way up to first, remove the rear suspension and transmission from the torque tube and then remove the torque tube up in the air followed by the bell housing.
The engine will not necessarily be supported by anything but the motor mounts. At least, mine has not been the two times I've done my clutch without a lift.
So, do the preliminary work loosening bolts up in the air, drop it down, support the rear with a jack, slide it to the rear, and lift the car. Now back in the air remove the torque tube and bell housing.
Oh, this sounds quite reasonable. I was assuming I'd be removing the torque tube with the rest of the driveline, but this seems far more doable. Is there any concern with the torque tube hanging off the end of the bellhousing after I pull the rear?
Keep in mind that after removing the torque tube and transaxle the car will be VERY nose heavy on the 2 post lift. I placed a jack under the front cross member to prevent the car from tilting forward.
Do you have a engine hoist (cherry picker)? If so you can make a cradle that mounts on the lift to support the transaxle. That's how I did mine.
I made a setup that mounts on the engine hoist that attaches to the rear crossmember assy that allowed me to lower it by myself. I added a linkage that would keep the trans/torque tube level while it was lowered but it's not necessary if you have an extra set of hands to help line things up. I did this by myself so I added it. I used another stand to support the trans while I lowered the cradle.
I borrowed an attachment a friend had made the I used to remove the trans/torque tube assy. Since I was working alone I added a front support using a roller cart.
These 2 tools allowed me to do the clutch job solo and still be safe. Once I started removing major chunks the car was supported by stands and did not move until the big pieces were re-installed so the weight stayed balanced on the lift.
Yea, I wish I could weld, this looks downright surgical! But, I honestly hope to only do this job once...so to have special brackets and whatnot made isn't too appealing to me.
Still, this is impressive. Thanks for posting!
Last edited by DetroitPlac; 01-27-2017 at 03:04 PM.
Keep in mind that after removing the torque tube and transaxle the car will be VERY nose heavy on the 2 post lift. I placed a jack under the front cross member to prevent the car from tilting forward.
Do you have a engine hoist (cherry picker)? If so you can make a cradle that mounts on the lift to support the transaxle. That's how I did mine.
I made a setup that mounts on the engine hoist that attaches to the rear crossmember assy that allowed me to lower it by myself. I added a linkage that would keep the trans/torque tube level while it was lowered but it's not necessary if you have an extra set of hands to help line things up. I did this by myself so I added it. I used another stand to support the trans while I lowered the cradle.
I borrowed an attachment a friend had made the I used to remove the trans/torque tube assy. Since I was working alone I added a front support using a roller cart.
These 2 tools allowed me to do the clutch job solo and still be safe. Once I started removing major chunks the car was supported by stands and did not move until the big pieces were re-installed so the weight stayed balanced on the lift.
BTW, what lift pads are those? My dad has the same exact lift, but the pads don't work right on my car.
I got the low profile option for the pads. They have a 2 stage screw for height adjustment and when at the lowest position are the lowest on the market. When I got the lift I had a 2013 Camaro that was lowered so low profile pads were important.
I have a fully equipped shop so knocking out the fixtures was an afternoon job. I'm 64 and I work alone so sometimes I have to get creative to get the job done. I also hope to only do it once but **** happens sometime so I'm keeping them as long as I have the Vette.
I got the low profile option for the pads. They have a 2 stage screw for height adjustment and when at the lowest position are the lowest on the market. When I got the lift I had a 2013 Camaro that was lowered so low profile pads were important.
I have a fully equipped shop so knocking out the fixtures was an afternoon job. I'm 64 and I work alone so sometimes I have to get creative to get the job done. I also hope to only do it once but **** happens sometime so I'm keeping them as long as I have the Vette.
Thanks! I love the shop! My dad's 64 and built his "dream garage" I'm sure he'll reach the full shop eventually, but for now the two of us work together on most projects.
you only need the one tranny jack and a tall screw jack to support the drivetrain while you remove the rear cradle, then move it to the front to support the engine when you pull the tranny and torque tube
Once the torque tube is off the engine you can lift the back of the engine up with couple of fingers. So, it won't hurt anything tilted back and touching the firewall.
If you want to remove the transmission but leave the torque tube you can always rig up a strap under the car under the torque tube. Use something like All-Round between 2 of the tunnel plate bolts under it to hold it up. It doesn't take much at all to hold it up either.
The worry about damaging the firewall with the engine is only when you drop the back of the drive train because with the weight of the transmission and differential still on the torque tube can put enough force against the firewall to break through.
you only need the one tranny jack and a tall screw jack to support the drivetrain while you remove the rear cradle, then move it to the front to support the engine when you pull the tranny and torque tube
Consider dropping the whole drive line, especially if you already have engine work to do (which it sounds like you do?). I know, dropping the engine/front cradle also is a good bit more work, but that is ultimately how the car was put together. It would also eliminate your need for any high lift jacks at all, making lining up the driveline a breeze, and give you a chance to get a good look at all the engine surroundings. Obviously, this is not what I would recommend for every clutch job, but with a lift already available and engine work needed, definitely the way to go.
Last edited by vipmiller803; 01-31-2017 at 04:23 PM.
Consider dropping the whole drive line, especially if you already have engine work to do (which it sounds like you do?). I know, dropping the engine/front cradle also is a good bit more work, but that is ultimately how the car was put together. It would also eliminate your need for any high lift jacks at all, making lining up the driveline a breeze, and give you a chance to get a good look at all the engine surroundings. Obviously, this is not what I would recommend for every clutch job, but with a lift already available and engine work needed, definitely the way to go.
I'm almost done with the engine...heads/cam. In hindsight, this probably would have been the right move. But at this point it's probably more work than it's worth since it's just the clutch.
Well, after much contemplation, I halted work on the engine and dropped the entire drive line. I wish I had done this sooner. Would have made a lot of my prior work easier. Oh well.
Not really sure what's leaking on the top of the trans, but it's made quite a mess...
01-27-2017, 12:10 PM
Clutch Install on 2-Post Lift
Thanks! I love the shop! My dad's 64 and built his "dream garage" I'm sure he'll reach the full shop eventually, but for now the two of us work together on most projects.
