C5 Newb

One thing after another.....

Yesterday I started down to Phoenix for a day trip and stopped about 12 miles from home to grab something in the back and heard a strange noise coming from underhood...

Checking it out I found the damper pulley had worked it's self off to the point it was rubbing against the steering rack, it couldn't go any further.

Tried putting it back on and the pully is seated so there is 3.5mm between the crank and the pulley so it is seated properly but The bolt isn't tightening up and still turns with around 100 ft. lbs. of turning. If you go to the 140 ft. lb. torque (what the GM service manual says) it is going to push the pulley in further that it's supposed to.

What am I doing wrong???

I am going to pull the old one and put on a new stock damper tomorrow morning. The GM service manual says to torque to 35 then to 140 and I guess your done? The page ends there....... (I have a new GM bolt)

If the damper pully spun on the crank which I am sure it did could it have worn down the crank a few thousandths? The pulley seemed to go on too easy......

Should I red locktight it this time???

Smoken1

1: Do not use another stock one or you will be doing it again
2: get an aftermarket damper like the Dayco/Powerbond one and use an ARP bolt. One torque spec if I remember right it is 235flbs and is reusable as your stock cannot be reused

C5 Newb

Seems like good advice but at this time I can only afford a OEM replacement, In the future I will upgrade.

Got it all back together today and everything is fine except I have no power steering now, Can it be bled without a mity-vac as I do not have a decent vacume tool.

vettenuts

Your installation method is wrong. It is not 140 lb-ft, it is 140 degrees of rotation which is a lot. Follow the GM procedure to the letter and not LS2howto. Here is the correct method:

tbrowne

Did you read the manual correctly? It's 37 lb ft of torque on the first pass and then turn the bolt another 140° (degrees) - not 140 lb ft. If the bolt isn't tightened properly, it may come loose again. It takes a long break-over bar and a cheater pipe to get the additional 140° turn.

The pulley shouldn't move back any further with the additional turn. The crank shaft is tapered and won't allow it to go back too far unless it's been damaged by the old pulley. You should have purchased a new bolt when you bought the pulley. New bolts are pre-coated and won't need lock-tite.

The steering rack can be bled by putting the front end up on jack stands, starting the car and turning the steering wheel back and forth lock to lock eight or ten times. Should clear any air out of the system. If you have a turkey baster, suck as much of the old fluid out of the reservoir as you can and add fresh power steering fluid before you start. Empty the power steering reservoir and add new fluid after bleeding the rack. Fresh fluid will prolong the life of the rack.

feeder82

do not try to pull the balancer on with the stock bolt, you can strip out the threads in the crank if you havent already.

C5 Newb

I am sorry, I forgot to type "degrees". I have the service manual but just wrote it wrong.....
Thanks for scanning the book though, That was appreciated.

It's all on and good except for the power steering not working issue........

I used a installation tool to pull the damper on.........

C5 Newb

I tried that (since thats how I always did it on other vehicles) but it isn't doing anything.

I had "help" from my uncle on some of the work and he installed the lines onto the gearbox, could he have installed them backwards? The pump don't seem to be pumping but it was fine before.

tbrowne

I think the lines have different size nuts on them to prevent them from being install incorrectly.