Differential axle seal leak
10-31-2003, 10:10 PM
#1
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Differential axle seal leak
Has GM developed a fix for the leak at the rear axle/diff seal? I have seen previous posts relating to this problem so mine is not a unique problem.
11-01-2003, 08:53 AM
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St. Jude Donor '13
Re: Differential axle seal leak (als99)
Has GM developed a fix for the leak at the rear axle/diff seal? I have seen previous posts relating to this problem so mine is not a unique problem.
Info - Release of New Rear Axle Seals #03-04-20-005 - (09/12/2003)
Release of New Rear Axle Seals
1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvette
This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers that new and improved rear seals have been released for service for the above listed vehicles.
Use the new output shaft oil seal, P/N 88996703, and the new differential side cover O-ring, P/N 89047953, when repairing rear axle leaks.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
88996703
Seal, Output Shaft Oil
89047953
O-ring, Differential Side Cover
11-01-2003, 01:54 PM
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Re: Differential axle seal leak (C-5 TECH)
C-5 TECH,
My 'leaky' Y2K had the shaft seal replaced at 7800 miles (with the old P/N) and it is slinging oil again at 8800 miles. They have ordered the seal and o-ring for me off the new bulletin.
Should they do anything to the seal surface on the shaft while it is apart (like polishing, etc.)? It showed a very narrow polished ring where the seal was contacting at the 7800 mile fix.
Thanks,
Dave :auto:
My 'leaky' Y2K had the shaft seal replaced at 7800 miles (with the old P/N) and it is slinging oil again at 8800 miles. They have ordered the seal and o-ring for me off the new bulletin.
Should they do anything to the seal surface on the shaft while it is apart (like polishing, etc.)? It showed a very narrow polished ring where the seal was contacting at the 7800 mile fix.
Thanks,
Dave :auto:
11-01-2003, 02:33 PM
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St. Jude Donor '13
Re: Differential axle seal leak (Y2KMRC5)
C-5 TECH,
My 'leaky' Y2K had the shaft seal replaced at 7800 miles (with the old P/N) and it is slinging oil again at 8800 miles. They have ordered the seal and o-ring for me off the new bulletin.
Should they do anything to the seal surface on the shaft while it is apart (like polishing, etc.)? It showed a very narrow polished ring where the seal was contacting at the 7800 mile fix.
Thanks,
Dave :auto:
My 'leaky' Y2K had the shaft seal replaced at 7800 miles (with the old P/N) and it is slinging oil again at 8800 miles. They have ordered the seal and o-ring for me off the new bulletin.
Should they do anything to the seal surface on the shaft while it is apart (like polishing, etc.)? It showed a very narrow polished ring where the seal was contacting at the 7800 mile fix.
Thanks,
Dave :auto:
As far as the side cover,the new o-ring is thicker making it more difficult to install the side cover without pinching the new o-ring.I coat the new o-ring with a film of white lithium grease to make installing the side cover easier,preventing pinching of the seal.I also put a thin bead of anerobic sealer to the side cover mating surface...The anerobic sealer is excellent for machined alluminum surfaces.Silicone sealer should not be used because synthetic fluids will deteriate it :yesnod:
11-01-2003, 05:55 PM
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Re: Differential axle seal leak (C-5 TECH)
C-5 TECH,
Thanks for the info. Do you have a part number for the anerobic sealant? I would like to make sure they have it when the next install takes place.
Thanks again,
Dave :chevy
Thanks for the info. Do you have a part number for the anerobic sealant? I would like to make sure they have it when the next install takes place.
Thanks again,
Dave :chevy
11-02-2003, 11:09 PM
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St. Jude Donor '13
Re: Differential axle seal leak (Y2KMRC5)
I dont know the GM part# off the top of my head,I use a big tube from Loctite/Permatex brand available at any parts outlet :yesnod:
06-24-2014, 11:26 AM
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St. Jude's Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I know this is an OLD thread but I just wanted to share my experience on the project C5 I picked up. It had the leak on the driver's seal at highway speeds that would make the car smell like burning oil (only gear oil sulfur is so much worse) when I'd park it after a highway drive from the fluid hitting the rear exhaust.
Bought the seal from the local dealership for under $30 total. Jacked up the car. Placed Jackstand for safety. Removed wheel. Took the axle nut off. Removed two upper control-arm-to-frame bolts. Removed ABS electrical plug. Undid E-Brake cable (I found it easiest to remove the two bolts holding the e-brake cable vs trying to get it to slide through the bracket hole). Undid the stabilizer/alignment tie-rod. Now you can pull the spindle back and get the axle to slide out. It takes some serious pulling and bending the axle joint to get it but it can be done. I believe you could probably take the sway bar links and shock bolts out and get more clearance if you wanted - I didn't need to.
Then get underneath and use a big hairy screwdriver (that's the technical term) and a hammer. Place the tip in between the differential housing and the axle. Lightly tap from directly under it and the screwdriver will 'wedge' it apart to release it. Now, make sure you have your fluid drained from the diff before removing the axle or you'll have a mess coming out. A few tugs on the axle from the outer end of the axle should get your axle removed.
Now I didn't have my seal puller so I used a small flat head and then a large flat head. Get underneath the car again. Set the tip of your long, small flathead onto the edge of the bottom of the seal. Tap it with a hammer until it begins to bend up. Get enough gap in there to switch to the large screwdriver. Repeat and then move the screwdriver from the bottom towards the sides which will cause it to work it's way around the lip of the seal and it will pop right out.
Clean the differential housing and all surfaces in, under, around the seal contact points. Insert the seal by hand. I used a BIG socket that was the size of the seal's outer ring almost (believe it was a 32 or 34mm) with about 2 foot of 1/2' drive extension but they do sell a seal install tool. Tap it slowly, rechecking every few taps to make sure nothing is misaligned and is going in evenly. You should have the seal flush against the differential all the way around now. I gave it a few more taps after that just to seat it 110%. Reinstall was just the reverse and took maybe 10 mins. Refill the rear with the proper gear oil (I used Royal Purple Synthetic with LS additive because it was the best the auto store had at the local store). Double check everything. Test drive around the block once. Check for leaks. Test drive to highway speeds for a quick run. Check for leaks. Finally, take a 10-15 min drive at varying speeds and check one more time. Should be good to go and no more leaks now. Not bad for $50 and some labor.
Bought the seal from the local dealership for under $30 total. Jacked up the car. Placed Jackstand for safety. Removed wheel. Took the axle nut off. Removed two upper control-arm-to-frame bolts. Removed ABS electrical plug. Undid E-Brake cable (I found it easiest to remove the two bolts holding the e-brake cable vs trying to get it to slide through the bracket hole). Undid the stabilizer/alignment tie-rod. Now you can pull the spindle back and get the axle to slide out. It takes some serious pulling and bending the axle joint to get it but it can be done. I believe you could probably take the sway bar links and shock bolts out and get more clearance if you wanted - I didn't need to.
Then get underneath and use a big hairy screwdriver (that's the technical term) and a hammer. Place the tip in between the differential housing and the axle. Lightly tap from directly under it and the screwdriver will 'wedge' it apart to release it. Now, make sure you have your fluid drained from the diff before removing the axle or you'll have a mess coming out. A few tugs on the axle from the outer end of the axle should get your axle removed.
Now I didn't have my seal puller so I used a small flat head and then a large flat head. Get underneath the car again. Set the tip of your long, small flathead onto the edge of the bottom of the seal. Tap it with a hammer until it begins to bend up. Get enough gap in there to switch to the large screwdriver. Repeat and then move the screwdriver from the bottom towards the sides which will cause it to work it's way around the lip of the seal and it will pop right out.
Clean the differential housing and all surfaces in, under, around the seal contact points. Insert the seal by hand. I used a BIG socket that was the size of the seal's outer ring almost (believe it was a 32 or 34mm) with about 2 foot of 1/2' drive extension but they do sell a seal install tool. Tap it slowly, rechecking every few taps to make sure nothing is misaligned and is going in evenly. You should have the seal flush against the differential all the way around now. I gave it a few more taps after that just to seat it 110%. Reinstall was just the reverse and took maybe 10 mins. Refill the rear with the proper gear oil (I used Royal Purple Synthetic with LS additive because it was the best the auto store had at the local store). Double check everything. Test drive around the block once. Check for leaks. Test drive to highway speeds for a quick run. Check for leaks. Finally, take a 10-15 min drive at varying speeds and check one more time. Should be good to go and no more leaks now. Not bad for $50 and some labor.
06-24-2014, 11:27 AM
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St. Jude's Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I know this is an OLD thread but I just wanted to share my experience on the project C5 I picked up. It had the leak on the driver's seal at highway speeds that would make the car smell like burning oil (only gear oil sulfur is so much worse) when I'd park it after a highway drive from the fluid hitting the rear exhaust.
Bought the seal from the local dealership for under $30 total. Jacked up the car. Placed Jackstand for safety. Removed wheel. Took the axle nut off. Removed two upper control-arm-to-frame bolts. Removed ABS electrical plug. Undid E-Brake cable (I found it easiest to remove the two bolts holding the e-brake cable vs trying to get it to slide through the bracket hole). Undid the stabilizer/alignment tie-rod. Now you can pull the spindle back and get the axle to slide out. It takes some serious pulling and bending the axle joint to get it but it can be done. I believe you could probably take the sway bar links and shock bolts out and get more clearance if you wanted - I didn't need to.
Then get underneath and use a big hairy screwdriver (that's the technical term) and a hammer. Place the tip in between the differential housing and the axle. Lightly tap from directly under it and the screwdriver will 'wedge' it apart to release it. Now, make sure you have your fluid drained from the diff before removing the axle or you'll have a mess coming out. A few tugs on the axle from the outer end of the axle should get your axle removed.
Now I didn't have my seal puller so I used a small flat head and then a large flat head. Get underneath the car again. Set the tip of your long, small flathead onto the edge of the bottom of the seal. Tap it with a hammer until it begins to bend up. Get enough gap in there to switch to the large screwdriver. Repeat and then move the screwdriver from the bottom towards the sides which will cause it to work it's way around the lip of the seal and it will pop right out.
Clean the differential housing and all surfaces in, under, around the seal contact points. Insert the seal by hand. I used a BIG socket that was the size of the seal's outer ring almost (believe it was a 32 or 34mm) with about 2 foot of 1/2' drive extension but they do sell a seal install tool. Tap it slowly, rechecking every few taps to make sure nothing is misaligned and is going in evenly. You should have the seal flush against the differential all the way around now. I gave it a few more taps after that just to seat it 110%. Reinstall was just the reverse and took maybe 10 mins. Refill the rear with the proper gear oil (I used Royal Purple Synthetic with LS additive because it was the best the auto store had at the local store). Double check everything. Test drive around the block once. Check for leaks. Test drive to highway speeds for a quick run. Check for leaks. Finally, take a 10-15 min drive at varying speeds and check one more time. Should be good to go and no more leaks now. Not bad for $50 and some labor.
Bought the seal from the local dealership for under $30 total. Jacked up the car. Placed Jackstand for safety. Removed wheel. Took the axle nut off. Removed two upper control-arm-to-frame bolts. Removed ABS electrical plug. Undid E-Brake cable (I found it easiest to remove the two bolts holding the e-brake cable vs trying to get it to slide through the bracket hole). Undid the stabilizer/alignment tie-rod. Now you can pull the spindle back and get the axle to slide out. It takes some serious pulling and bending the axle joint to get it but it can be done. I believe you could probably take the sway bar links and shock bolts out and get more clearance if you wanted - I didn't need to.
Then get underneath and use a big hairy screwdriver (that's the technical term) and a hammer. Place the tip in between the differential housing and the axle. Lightly tap from directly under it and the screwdriver will 'wedge' it apart to release it. Now, make sure you have your fluid drained from the diff before removing the axle or you'll have a mess coming out. A few tugs on the axle from the outer end of the axle should get your axle removed.
Now I didn't have my seal puller so I used a small flat head and then a large flat head. Get underneath the car again. Set the tip of your long, small flathead onto the edge of the bottom of the seal. Tap it with a hammer until it begins to bend up. Get enough gap in there to switch to the large screwdriver. Repeat and then move the screwdriver from the bottom towards the sides which will cause it to work it's way around the lip of the seal and it will pop right out.
Clean the differential housing and all surfaces in, under, around the seal contact points. Insert the seal by hand. I used a BIG socket that was the size of the seal's outer ring almost (believe it was a 32 or 34mm) with about 2 foot of 1/2' drive extension but they do sell a seal install tool. Tap it slowly, rechecking every few taps to make sure nothing is misaligned and is going in evenly. You should have the seal flush against the differential all the way around now. I gave it a few more taps after that just to seat it 110%. Reinstall was just the reverse and took maybe 10 mins. Refill the rear with the proper gear oil (I used Royal Purple Synthetic with LS additive because it was the best the auto store had at the local store). Double check everything. Test drive around the block once. Check for leaks. Test drive to highway speeds for a quick run. Check for leaks. Finally, take a 10-15 min drive at varying speeds and check one more time. Should be good to go and no more leaks now. Not bad for $50 and some labor.
08-15-2014, 09:42 PM
#14
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My 2003 Z06 with only 3,800 miles, now has the rear axle leak. I'm a little pissed because I just sold my daily driver and the Z06 is my only vehicle right now. I can do a lot my own maintenance but don't think I can handle doing this repair myself. But I really hate having to go to the dealership to get this taken care of.
08-18-2014, 05:07 PM
#15
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Yes if you have the tools and the knowledge. I can do a lot of maintenance on my vehicles myself, but have never attempted something like this. I'd hate to have it all apart and screw something up, then not be able to get it to the dealership to fix. And right now my Z06 is my only vehicle, so I need it down immediately.
