MikeV

Well for anyone interested in doing it themselfs, I just finished.

First: Last weekend I installed a B&M 24K cooler. For your information
the GM part number for the top line fitting is 5248-9280. If you have a 3/8 tube bent to your specifications this is the fitting with the seal to fit the rad.

The differential I am using is a used unit with about 5K miles on them. Knowing this I bought a new set of seals, the new style, along with the orings to reinstall the side output covers using the sealant. This combination of 3 orings and two seals set me back $90.

I removed the side covers, cleaned out all the residual oil and poped out the old seals using a large screwdriver. Take care not to touch the seal bore of the cover. I then pressed the new seals into the side output covers. To do this, I used a 2" schedule 40 threaded pipe cap. The fit is perfect. I reinstalled the two side covers using the specified GM red sealant and new orings. The torque on the 10MM bolts is 20 lb. ft. All ready for installation.

Gear/Converter swap:

I put the front on Rhino ramps and the rear on jack stands w/ double hocky pucks. This set the clearance at the jack stand location at 16". I used this height so the angle would not be severe and it would be easier to align the trans to the torque tube. I removed the exhaust and torque tube tunnel heat shield the day before to prep.
Exhaust details: The nuts on the exhaust manifold are 15MM. Then I removed the wiring harness from the O2 sensors. The first thing that has to be done is to remove the blue safety pins that hold the waterproof connectors together. This can be accomplished by using a long thin screwdriver and pushing on the side of the safety pin and pulling on the top. Once the connectors are disconnected, remove the harness clips that hold it on the tunnel heat shield. This can be done using a large screwdriver above the clips and pulling down. Finally remove the two bolts at the exhaust bracket in front, the two on the spring hanger in the middle and the two flanges before the axle then lower the whole assembly. Next I removed the 32 8MM bolts that hold the torque tube tray.

I remove the rear wheels. Removed the calipers, 15MM and hung them on the opening on the front side of the wheel wheel well. I unplugged the speed sensor from each wheel and then looked at the emergency brake cable. It is removed by using a large screw driver and forcing the end off the brake hook that extends out of the back of the hub shield. I drained the differential and trans fluid. I removed the trans pan for an inspection . Everything looked great. I removed the spark plugs so the engine could be rotated.

Tools:

I made a lifting fixture that fits in the hole on my floor jack to hold the suspension cradle when you lower it down from the differential. Its made from 1-1/4 C.S. box tubing. The dimensions are as follows: 23-1/2" overall
with a 4" high upright welded on each end. Inside dimension must be 21". The stub below that fits my jack is 1-1/8 O.D. round stock by 1-1/4" high welded in the center. This will fit on the outside of the aluminum webing just behind the spring. This is as close to the center of gravity as you can get.

The second fixture is made to support the trans/diff assembly. Its made from 1/2"x 3" C.S. stock 12-1/4" long. In the center of each end is welded a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" square. The stub below is the same.

An 18MM deep socket, 18MM combo wrench, and 5 MM allen wrench are all needed. I add this because most tool kits go from 17MM to 19MM and do not include the 18.

Removal:

Disconnect your battery, loosen your intake air coupler. Take a measurement from the ground to the back of the differential for when you reinstall it.
I wondered why every article I read, they dropped the torque tube? I also read that it was a pain lining everything back up, so I decided to support the TT in place and just remove the trans/diff assembly. We removed the bolts and nuts, 18MM, that clamp the sway bar to the suspension in the center. Then we started on one side and placed a jack under the lower a arm just behind the rotor. We put some tension on the lower A arm and remove the shock bolts and upper A arm ball joint. This ball joint comes apart easily.
We inserted a large, long, screwdiver between the differential and the axle boot. This will slide the axle off the spline. Then pull the axle out of the diff.
Now slowly lowered the jack guiding the axle around the brake lines and the top shock mount thru the upper A arm. Repeat on the other side.

Slide the with the long fixture under the rear suspension at a 90 degree angle. This will allow you to lower the suspension and pull it out thru the wheel well. Slide the second jack under the trans pan just behind the dome in the center. Remove the two 15MM ? bolts holding the diff mount to the suspension. Take up a little tension on both jacks. Now "BY HAND" no air tools, remove the four 18MM nuts and bolts holding the suspension cradle. Slowly let the down the jack under the suspension. During lowering disconnect all brake line and electrical clamps. Pull the suspension out thru the wheel well.
Now remove the vibration dampner, look like two round weights from the rear end and the diff mount below. Transfer these to the new unit.
Remove the linkage, trans lines, and wiring harness from the trans. Open the rubber inspection holes in flywheel housing and the converter housing in front of the tran. Us a wrench on the bolts in the flywheel housing rotate (clockwise)the engine to access and remove the three 15MM bolts in the converter housing. Lower the back of the diff about four inches. Now slide a jack stand with a wooden 4x4 block under a portion of the torque tube so it does not hit the trans lines. Remove the bolts, 15MM, from the trans to the converter housing. Note that some have nuts holding on a wiring bracket with a studs below and you have to remove both. Now slowly lower the tran/axle assembly taking care to clear the brake lines and wiring harness. Slide the assembly out the wheel well.

Diff. Swap:

Compare the new and old. Transfer any and all brackets. The torque on the side 8MM cover bolts is 20 LB FT. To remove the differential plate, thats the plate that goes between the trans and the differential, use a large wide blade screw driver thru the center hole. Insert at an angle between the plate and the differential far enough so that when you turn it you are touching the plate and not the seal. Turn the screwdriver at 3 or 4 different areas to pop out the plate. Change the 0-ring and lube prior to installing in new differential. Coat the center seal with trans fluid or other lube then slowly slide the new diff on the trans shaft taking care not to damage the seal on the shaft. Tighten the bolts to 37 lb Ft. Fill the differential with gear oil and limited slip additive now as it is much easier.

Converter swap:

First measure from the surface where the three bolts go into the converter back to the front flange on the trans. It should be about 3-1/16" plus or minus an 1/8". Now rotate the converter and pull it out. Clean the seal area on the tran. Fill the new converter with fluid until you see the level at the bottom of the stem. If it spills out when you turn it horizonal its full. Clean and lube up the stem with trans fluid. Install the converter by twisting. Now take the same measurement. It should be within about a 1/16".

Trans/Diff Installation:

Reverse the order. Take care when going around the wiring harness and brake lines. Ensure everything that needs to be torqued is torqued. Apply loctite to the three converter bolts and torque to 47 lb. Ft. Apply loctite to the two caliper bolts and torque to 23 lb. Ft. Reinstall the spark plugs and tighten your intake coupler. Reconnect your battery.

Lastly top off fluids using the correct procedure and your done.

I still have to install my spark plugs, there on order. Monday should be the day. :D :D

Hopefully no leaks. :cheers: I am tired. About 6-7 hours today.

Mike V


[Modified by MikeV, 7:46 PM 2/7/2004]

SpiralCoupe

If you ever get lost and wind up in South Alabama, I could use your help. I wish I could do this stuff. Great write up and thanks for your time.
Now, relax and have a cool one, you deserve it!!!
:cheers:

TLKSCHP

Ok, Monday came so how do you like it? I just couldn't let this much work in typing and labor on a his ride go by that easy. Lets give him a hand :hurray: and this information is going to be useful for me this spring. :thumbs: :cheers:

WALLstAL

:cheers: More guts than me! Awaiting part 3.

MC TORCH RED

:iagree: you da man.. :thumbs:

dads01dream

Gee, you got something against being DESCRIPTIVE?? :crazy: Thanks for the write-up, if you took any pix I'm sure we'd all love to see them. Looking forward to your driving opinions.
:party:

gojo

Nice going. It's a tough job with a lift. I can't imagine doing it on your back.
If you didn't do it, suggest you go back and put blue loktite on the tranny pan bolts. They do loosen, mine were. When we did my car, we left the torque tube in and used a box wrench on the flywheel bolts to turn the tube and line up the converter bolt holes. How did you line them up?:thumbs:

MikeV

GOJO.

Yea we turned them the same way. Its less work if you leave the tt in place and not have to remove all the extra stuff. If you do it our way they have to remember to turn it clockwise as not to loosen the bolts.

Mike V