Coolant flush time - where is the heater inlet hose?
06-30-2004, 05:34 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Coolant flush time - where is the heater inlet hose?
I need to t into the heater inlet hose but there are at least 3 or 4 possible choices that *might* be the right one. Will the real heater inlet hose please stand up? Or can someone just point of whihc one it is? Thanks.
06-30-2004, 09:55 PM
#3
Safety Car
Re: Coolant flush time - where is the heater inlet hose? (buddha)
just drain, refill with distilled water, run until operating temp is reached, turn on heater for a few minutes, drain, repeat if you want and then mix the new coolant/water for the last fill.
06-30-2004, 09:56 PM
#4
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Re: Coolant flush time - where is the heater inlet hose? (buddha)
The rear most hose coming off the water pump goes to the heater inlet pipe in the right rear of the engine compartment. The hose next to it comes off the pump and goes to the T at the surge tank and then contiunes back along the inlet hose until it reaches the heater outlet pipe.
Bill
Bill
07-01-2004, 07:48 AM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Re: Coolant flush time - where is the heater inlet hose? (luvinc5)
"Why are you tieing into the heater hoses and not the radiator hose?"
Because that is what step 2b of my zerex backflush kit is instructing me to do. Perhaps I should have said "Coolant back -flush time, I'm not draining out some coolant, I am backflushing the whole cooling system.
I am also having second thoughts about whether this is really necessary after reading some of the comments in this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=851490.
I live in Scottsdale AZ, aka land of the roasting asphalt and now that 120 degrees is the avg temp I have been getting nervous about my water and oil temps - 215/230 (water/oil) when moving and 240/265+ in traffic. When I'm stuck at a 5 minute red light my water climbs to 250 sometimes. I assumed there must be something wrong with my cooling system but after reading that other thread I guess the elevated temps are not all that unusual given the circumstances.
I have MMS Satge II heads/cam and all the usual other stuff - Vortek, LS6 manifold, Basanni exaust + x-pipe, cats deleted, L/T headers, MAF, TB bypass etc, etc and last Dec my friendly neighborhood dealer went ahead and WIPED OUT my custom programming without asking me first or even telling me afterwards. As a result I am running leaner and therefore hotter, which was cool when the most noticable difference was more hp, better mileage and less black smoke clouds @ wot (Morgan had me running waaay rich), but lately the running hotter part has been getting out of control. I have a 160 degree stat too btw. The system was flushed last year at 40k miles so there is actually no reason why it should need it again, I just couldn't think of anything else after checking the radiator itself, and it looks fine. The real solution is to get a decent radiator and oil cooler, I just don't have the $$ right now. Thanks for the help guys.
[Modified by buddha, 9:19 AM 7/1/2004]
Because that is what step 2b of my zerex backflush kit is instructing me to do. Perhaps I should have said "Coolant back -flush time, I'm not draining out some coolant, I am backflushing the whole cooling system.
I am also having second thoughts about whether this is really necessary after reading some of the comments in this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=851490.
I live in Scottsdale AZ, aka land of the roasting asphalt and now that 120 degrees is the avg temp I have been getting nervous about my water and oil temps - 215/230 (water/oil) when moving and 240/265+ in traffic. When I'm stuck at a 5 minute red light my water climbs to 250 sometimes. I assumed there must be something wrong with my cooling system but after reading that other thread I guess the elevated temps are not all that unusual given the circumstances.
I have MMS Satge II heads/cam and all the usual other stuff - Vortek, LS6 manifold, Basanni exaust + x-pipe, cats deleted, L/T headers, MAF, TB bypass etc, etc and last Dec my friendly neighborhood dealer went ahead and WIPED OUT my custom programming without asking me first or even telling me afterwards. As a result I am running leaner and therefore hotter, which was cool when the most noticable difference was more hp, better mileage and less black smoke clouds @ wot (Morgan had me running waaay rich), but lately the running hotter part has been getting out of control. I have a 160 degree stat too btw. The system was flushed last year at 40k miles so there is actually no reason why it should need it again, I just couldn't think of anything else after checking the radiator itself, and it looks fine. The real solution is to get a decent radiator and oil cooler, I just don't have the $$ right now. Thanks for the help guys.
[Modified by buddha, 9:19 AM 7/1/2004]
