VetteDrmr

Ok, here's a different one for y'all to chew on:

Up front, 2000 FRC, 280K miles, only mods are in my signature. Several years ago I changed out my fog lights for HIDs. I noticed that when I turned on the parking & fog lights only the headlights would raise but not illuminate, similar to if you turned the headlights on and then turned the lighting control back to parking lights only.

I thought this might be due to the HID transformers pulling down the voltage enough that the headlight actuators were sensing a command to extend. Sure enough, if I turned the foglights off the headlights stayed in their proper position. After waiting a few seconds to let the voltage stabilize I could turn on the fog lights and everything stayed happy.

Over time this "workaround" became less and less reliable. At first the headlights would extend when I turned on the foglights, even after waiting 10 seconds or so. No it's gotten to the point that the headlights extend whenever the parking lights are turned on, regardless of the fog lights being on or off.

Any ideas?

TIA, and have a good one,
Mike

Sam Handwich

Looking for help in addressing this mess. I am part way through a header install on my 2001 vert (6 speed). On the passenger side I noticed a few wires on which the insulation has melted and three wires were stuck together. There are a few small places on five wires where the insulation is not there anymore and I can see the copper. So far it is about five wires. But none of them are connected to the starter.

I discovered this situation after I had worked the passenger side header into place, and had re-installed the starter. So I am looking for practical advice on how to proceed.
? Solder in short lengths and patch up the existing wires?
? Take out the header and go in deeper?
? Anyone else been here?

I don't know how hot it needs to be under the hood for this to happen, but the new headers are coated so once the wires are fixed I am hoping this is the only time (touch wood).

Many thanks in advance for help on this one.

Bill Curlee

I have headers on my 02 since 04.. ZERO wire/harness issues. Cut out the bad areas and western union splice in new wires with heat shrink.

MAKE SURE that you put the wires in plastic armor and where the heat is HIGH, put a wrap of foil coated fabric over the armor.

Any wires / harnesses close or too near the exhaust will burn.. Move it as close to the block and away from the exhaust heat as possible.

BC

Sam Handwich

Bill, this plastic armor of which you speak: is that the split loom that is about 1/4' inside diameter?
Also, what is foil coated fabric? Maybe I know it by some other name/description.

Bill Curlee

Just google heat shields or thermal barrer. Here is one already made for automove applications:

https://www.amazon.com/010405-Alumin...hield+products


Yes The plastic corragated split stuff. Ive seen some heat resistant stuff. Its out there some where.

BC

mygt350

Bill C
Have a 99 C5 6-speed with the telescoping steering wheel. Car had bit of water in pass floorboard but BCM does not show any signs of corrosion or bad connectors. DIC display went blank and ended up replacing instrument cluster. Display works fine now as do all gauges. However, 2 issues have come up. The first is the telescoping steering wheel will not extend when the column switch is moved. However, when switch is pushed forward, the column will retract maybe 1/32 of inch. I hear faint noise when attempting to retract wheel but nothing when extending it. Have pulled drivers seat and looked for broken frayed corroded wires but all appear clean. Seat functions as well as all door functions are good. Second issue is when key is on and radio is turned on, loud scream is pushed out front speakers. When I pull the Bose AMP relay, scream goes away and radio functions, but without the power from the AMP. Rear speakers are fine. Assume door mounted AMP has went south. Interesting all this happened at once. Not seeing any codes in DIC for telescoping column or radio. How do I confirm telescoping column actuator motor has failed?
Thanks for being the "Go To" guy.

mygt350

Hi Sam
New to this forum so please forgive my placement in improper thread. My issue is telescoping column and Bose AMP which I believe are electrical. Have been reading the long thread for long time and it is great.
Thanks

Bill Curlee

Lets take ONE issue at a time... First things first... ALWAYS read and post your DTCs using the built in C5 DTC reader. Most all the modules in the C5 are linked together using a serial data buss and if they are not working will leave you a DTC to help troubleshoot.

Below is the schematic that you need to troubleshoot. The drivers seat control module is the brain for the telescopic wheel so, start there and figure out what you don't have.




Let us know what DTCs that you have and what you find out during troubleshooting. DO you have the MEMORY SYSTEM?

Bill

mygt350

Yes, car has the Memory Option installed. With key simply inserted, drivers seat moves to last stored position. Am able to manually move seat forward, back, up and down using buttons on side of seat. With seat unbolted and tilted to side, I can sense air coming out of pump. Suspect its escaping where hose connects to bladder nipple.

Depressing column retract button moved wheel maybe 32nd of inch. No movement when extending wheel.

With engine running:
DIC reports:
HVAC 0303 H C and 0441 H C
PCM 0650 C

If relay 43 in pass foot well is inserted, pass speaker emits high pitch squeal. Remove relay 43 and radio plays, but at significantly reduced power. But DIC does not report any issue with radio.

I did notice "memory" did not "remember" last saved radio station when key fob removed and reinserted.

When I initially put meter on disconnected battery, it was just over 9V.

Car has the LMC5 unlocker installed if that matters in this context.
That is what I know today.
Martin

Blackjetvette97

Hi all,
Need a tip on how to separate the ground connector plug without breaking the tabs on opposing sides of it.......any advice?? Is it a big deal if tabs break off. I wanna get in the connector and clean pins, etc! Thanks


Steve

Bill Curlee

I used two small tweeker screwdrivers and inserted them to keep the locks from catching but you can also slip a thin piece of metal between the tab and lock slots. Try using some thin feeler gage blades.



BC

Blackjetvette97

Bill,
Thanks for the tip
I used a tiny flat-blade screwdriver to coax the catch mechanism out of the way and "Got'r dun"

I have completed cleaning of grounds G103, G101, G102, G104, G402 & G401. I had VERY LITTLE, if any, corrosion or any fouling inside my connectors, except for sand in G102
I have the passenger sill removed and the stud for that connector is in an almost impossible position to get at with ANY tool
I have no clue how it even got secured in there. I'm gonna try to tackle it again tomorrow to brainstorm how to get at it. Any Ideas out there???
I fiddled around with my wheel speed sensors while under the rear, doing grounds back there and lo & behold NO WARNING lights upon startup
Don't know if it was the 2 rear grounds I cleaned up or the fiddling with the sensors that quelled that recent uprising!

This forum and peeps ROCK!


Steve

Blackjetvette97

Hi all,
I have an observation to add to this thread about the "Active Handling/Service ABS" warning lights issue. This morning after firing my girl up, I got the warnings again on the display. I have noticed a very steady pattern, other than ONE hiccup, of this happening upon startup pretty much every time car is off for extended length of time. I let it run with warnings on, to warm up engine. I turn engine off, allow time for the warnings to ding after pulling key and display to clear/turn off, then restart the car. The warnings do not stay illuminated consistently. It seems the ignition cycle(s) are retesting parameters and the warmup period is doing something to bring problem(wherever it is) into tolerance. The one hiccup I encountered a couple months ago was as I was idling in (D)rive, chatting with someone, my car went into reduced power mode with these warnings, as well as Check Engine light illuminating. I am in process of cleaning all grounds ad have completed the ones stated in last post above^^^ I did on here.

Steve

Bill Curlee

WELL,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Read and post the DTCs using the DIC. Then you will know proof positive what its complaining about.

Read and post the codes in the ACTIVE ignition cycle when the messages appear. Just press RESET to clear the messages so you can enter the code reading routine.

Bill

mygt350

Bill, I used the seat control module wiring diagram to trace wires from switch to the seat. Checked switch and found no issues. Checked circuit from plug under dash to pug under seat. Again, no issues. Was looking at diagram and back at belly of seat and there it was. Broke pink wire on the plug to the seat control module. That is the wire that makes circuit to extend the telescoping steering wheel!!! Actually, the wire itself was not broken. Rather, the pin inside the connector was broken and not making connection. Since I did not have another of those really small pins, called Marc at VetteNuts.net and got a replacement harness. Plugged the three connectors under seat into the module and tried the wheel extender button and it worked like it was supposed to!!!
Many thanks to Bill Curlee for providing the diagrams and the offline assistance and to Marc at Vettenuts.net for the harness. Next on the list is replacing the door speakers and their corresponding amps. Hopefully, the new speakers/amps will fix the scream out of the door speakers. Will pull side door panel and take close look at the components and let you know how they looked and if radio scream is gone!!

Bill Curlee

Excellent work!

When you solve those Stereo issues, open up those bad parts and see if anything jumps out as obviously bad. Like swollen Caps or other visible damage..

Heck,, if just the electrolytic capacitors are bad, you can replace them easily.

Bill

mygt350

Interesting point in my circuit chasing. The pink wire labeled as 2094 is marked, Telescoping steering column "in". But for whatever reason, on my car, the Pink wire 2094 actuates the "out" function of the telescoping wheel. But as Bill explained, sometimes the diagram may be slightly off. So if I was simply using the diagram to chase the "out" side, I would have only looked at the Orange wire. Will let you know what the speaker components look like. Marc at Vettenuts.net has already sent me set of speaker/amps so hopefully they will cure the radio problem. I am not proficient enough to start replacing capacitors. Heck, I barely know what pnp transistor is.
Martin

mygt350

Will a defective instrument panel lamp cause a P0650 fault? List identifies this fault as "Malfunction Indicator Light". Its a 99 C5. If so, do I pull cluster and start looking at each of the lamps or is there somewhere else I should be looking to clear this fault. Tried to clear it, but its still there. Car runs and acts properly, as far as I can tell.
Thanks
Martin

Bill Curlee

You answered your oown question.. YEP,,, Get pullen!

There are bulbs for each light with a socket. Either its burned out or someone removed the bulb!

DTC P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit

Here is a couple of post you might like:

- C5 Gage Cluster disassembly - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1570380674

- C5 Gage Cluster Post - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1570380878



Good luck

Bill

mygt350

Removed and replaced pass Bose door speaker and re-inserted relay in foot panel. High pitch squeal is gone and radio volume is back to normal. Radio issue closed!

Installed new driver seat wiring harness to fix broken pin at Seat Control Module that controlled extend function of telescoping steering wheel. Another issue closed.

Now, pass window will not go up or down. When either driver or pass window switch activated, I hear a click that sounds like a relay in Pass Door Control Module. DIC had a code related to AC actuator, but no codes for left or right door module. Now I need to start looking at how pass door window works.

Bill C is da man!

Martin