ATI or Fluidampr for damper?
12-02-2004, 10:29 AM
#21
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by leaftye
I'm curious too. Track-only parts often perform quite well, but sometimes don't work well for extended periods (Mezeire waterpump), fatigue or wear out over time (Ti connecting rods or valves) or are noisy (trannies with straightcut gears). Does the AL unit do any of these things?
And another thing, you need a special seal for the aluminum damper hub.
12-02-2004, 05:14 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by corvettebob1
When it gets hot the expansion rate of aluminum is quite a bit more then the steel crank thus it gets loose. Of course you should always pin the crank but even if you do it'll wear the key way where the pin sets.
And another thing, you need a special seal for the aluminum damper hub.
And another thing, you need a special seal for the aluminum damper hub.
Are you guys using the ATI crank pin kit on cars without blowers? It is another $120 and more work......is it required?
12-02-2004, 05:27 PM
#23
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I'm confused... when you change these out to you balance them like the stock unit? The shop manual is very specific that when changing the crankshaft balance your must mark the position, transfer any/all balance weights in the exact position and re-install? How do you keep the motor perfectly balanced?
12-02-2004, 06:00 PM
#24
Drifting
the dampner is itself balanced...the shop manual does indeed say to mark, however there is no way of getting it right on the money [ the exact same spot]without it being keyed [pinned]. have had lots of them off and have changed a few, have had no problems and i follow the shop manual as far as tightening the dampner goes....have heard of lots of balancers coming loose but have not experienced it myself.
i also have the kent moore flywheel holder...dont know how it can be done without it.
i also have the kent moore flywheel holder...dont know how it can be done without it.
12-03-2004, 11:46 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by vettemaster1
the dampner is itself balanced...the shop manual does indeed say to mark, however there is no way of getting it right on the money [ the exact same spot]without it being keyed [pinned]. have had lots of them off and have changed a few, have had no problems and i follow the shop manual as far as tightening the dampner goes....have heard of lots of balancers coming loose but have not experienced it myself.
i also have the kent moore flywheel holder...dont know how it can be done without it.
i also have the kent moore flywheel holder...dont know how it can be done without it.
As far pinning the crank is concerned, I would spend the extra few dollars to make it right.
And it will make installation much easer because what I did was purchase the ATI 12 point reuseable hardened bolt ($26.00) and used red high strength loctite.
Now instead of needing to streach the bolt you can run it to 150 lbs ft.
And never worry because there can be no relative motion between the balancer and the crank to loosen the bolt.
Believe me the loss of a balancer is a real pain in the wallet because it also takes out the crank and everything else.
