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A little late in reading this post but I thought I might add to it. When I remove starter bushings I just fill them with grease and tap the shaft into the bushing and the grease hydraulically pushes out the bushing. So I would think that you could maybe do the same thing with the pilot bearing and a steel clutch alignment shaft.
A little late in reading this post but I thought I might add to it. When I remove starter bushings I just fill them with grease and tap the shaft into the bushing and the grease hydraulically pushes out the bushing. So I would think that you could maybe do the same thing with the pilot bearing and a steel clutch alignment shaft.
KS,, When I was new to LS engine repair I made the SAME recommendation. IT IS WRONG and I was schooled!
So, heres my chance to correct some wrong info.
The LS engine crank is hollow and at the output end is a WELSH PLUG that is driven into the end of the crank (behind the pilot bearing) that separates the OIL from atmosphere. If you do the hydraulic removal procedure for the pilot bearing you will displace that welsh plug and have a massive oil leak when the engine is started.
Obtain the correct puller, heat the end of the crank with a heat gun to about 200 deg and pull the pilot bearing out. Same for re-installation. Chill the bearing, heat the crank and carefully tap the bearing back in. That little bit of heat make a world of difference in difficulity of removal and reinstallation of that bearing.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 03-05-2015 at 01:41 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
after about 50 whacks with a slide hammer while laying on my back to get my pilot bearing out I highly doubt the grease method would even budge the pilot bearing and as Bill stated it will push the crank plug in and you will have a massive oil leak and more than likely ruin your brand new clutch... you can rent a blind hole puller/slide hammer for free from autozone if you don't own or want to buy one
after about 50 whacks with a slide hammer while laying on my back to get my pilot bearing out I highly doubt the grease method would even budge the pilot bearing and as Bill stated it will push the crank plug in and you will have a massive oil leak and more than likely ruin your brand new clutch... you can rent a blind hole puller/slide hammer for free from autozone if you don't own or want to buy one
YES! I agree. That is where I got my blind hole puller and slide hammer.
Worked like a champ. Like I stated previously, the heat gun made the job MUCH easier and the bearing came out after a few whacks with the slide hammer.
If you try to POUND the bearing back in and are not careful you will deform it and possibly damage it. Its a very tight fit!
Clean the crank hole, chill the bearing heat the crank it will tap in MUCH easier and you wont damage the bearing.
For those thinking (I only have 40,000 miles on the pilot bearing, it should be good)
Mine had 45,000 on it and when I examined it prior to removing it, it was DRY and the roller bearings were ready to fall out of the race.
KS,, When I was new to LS engine repair I made the SAME recommendation. IT IS WRONG and I was schooled!
So, heres my chance to correct some wrong info.
The LS engine crank is hollow and at the output end is a WELSH PLUG that is driven into the end of the crank (behind the pilot bearing) that separates the OIL from atmosphere. If you do the hydraulic removal procedure for the pilot bearing you will displace that welsh plug and have a massive oil leak when the engine is started.
Obtain the correct puller, heat the end of the crank with a heat gun to about 200 deg and pull the pilot bearing out. Same for re-installation. Chill the bearing, heat the crank and carefully tap the bearing back in. That little bit of heat make a world of difference in difficulity of removal and reinstallation of that bearing.
Bill
Woops I am glad I didn't try that-this is a great Forum.
Thanks for a great write-up. I used your old one when I did mine last year. The information you provided really helped. I do not know if I am tough enough to do the job on jack stands, but I am glad you were, and took the time to document the job.
Not trying to steal the tread but I've been hacking away at trying to get the tourqe to back on the bell housing. I can get about a inch away then feels like it hits a wall. Any tips?
Have you LOOSENED the pressure plate bolts and installed the alignment tool and made sure that its completely centered? Once its centered, re-tighten the bolts and the TT should slide right in. If NOT,, you could have a damaged pilot brg.
When I installed my SPEC Duel Disk Clutch, the chance of accidently BENDING the clutch disk HUBs was so great that I installed the TT by its self.
MAN,, That made ALL the difference in the world for ease of installation.. Then I just bolted the trand/diff to the TT.
I was reading in one post on a different thread that he messed around with it for 8 hrs then replaced the pilot bearing with a gm and it went right in. So after fighting it I took off the pp and clutch and mounted the TT to the bellhousing and it went in with no problems. That told me it would fit. So I instslled the pp again and still the same thing. I've used the adlinement tool and it slides in with no problem.
I would assume it would be easier to install the TT to the bellhousing and then the trans to the TT. Is there any reason why this can't be done?
Not trying to steal the tread but I've been hacking away at trying to get the tourqe to back on the bell housing. I can get about a inch away then feels like it hits a wall. Any tips?
Get an extra set of eyes and hands. Another idea, I did this job by myself so I used a C clamp to close up the final gap.
I was reading in one post on a different thread that he messed around with it for 8 hrs then replaced the pilot bearing with a gm and it went right in. So after fighting it I took off the pp and clutch and mounted the TT to the bellhousing and it went in with no problems. That told me it would fit. So I instslled the pp again and still the same thing. I've used the adlinement tool and it slides in with no problem.
I would assume it would be easier to install the TT to the bellhousing and then the trans to the TT. Is there any reason why this can't be done?
I'm not sure it's possible to mount the tt first without the diff. I could be wrong.
Have you LOOSENED the pressure plate bolts and installed the alignment tool and made sure that its completely centered? Once its centered, re-tighten the bolts and the TT should slide right in. If NOT,, you could have a damaged pilot brg.
When I installed my SPEC Duel Disk Clutch, the chance of accidently BENDING the clutch disk HUBs was so great that I installed the TT by its self.
MAN,, That made ALL the difference in the world for ease of installation.. Then I just bolted the trand/diff to the TT.
So after fighting this damn drive shaft, I found my problem. The clutch disk was lined up. I thought since the alignment tool when in that it was but after taking it apart again I found it went in another inch lined up right. After that it was a breeze. Did it buy my self, but that's not saying much. My advise to any one having problems. Check adlignment with clutch disk.
So after fighting this damn drive shaft, I found my problem. The clutch disk was lined up. I thought since the alignment tool when in that it was but after taking it apart again I found it went in another inch lined up right. After that it was a breeze. Did it buy my self, but that's not saying much. My advise to any one having problems. Check adlignment with clutch disk.
Good to know I was doing mine and I couldn't get it to go in..Looks like my alignment was off to and in the process I tore the pilot bearing. Did you do it with the TT on the tranny or no? I was doing mine with just the TT.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I had a heck of a time with mine too wrestling it by myself, I did it with the torque tube only and the trans/diff separated from it... I used the plastic alignment tool included with my clutch and after torquing the pressure plate I could only get the input shaft through my 2 discs but it would not go into the pilot bearing and fully seat against the bellhousing... what I ended up doing was mark the pressure plate in order of the torque sequence then loosened it up just enough that I could move the discs with my fingers... then I slid the torque tube into the clutch while turning the discs and it popped in a lot easier than what I was doing before... then I used a flywheel turning tool and torqued the pressure plate with the inspection cover off... next time I will invest in a tool made out of an old input shaft
I I installed mine with the TT attached to the trans. I just thought it was gonna be just as much work trying to attach the trans as it would to attach the TT. I think the biggest tip I could give for doing this job is to make sure the alignment tool goes all the way in. It will almost be flush with the Pp. leave it in and tourqe down the pp. then use your c clamp and glide it in. It doesn't need to be a two person job but would make it easier.
I'm guessing I've done this 15-20 times, not because I've wanted to
After insuring the clutch disc are aligned correctly, a little upward pressure on the align tool as the weight of the disc's pulls it down. When sliding the torque input shaft into the disc's & housing I have longer bolts that I thread into the clutch housing. They work as an alignment guide & makes it very easy so see the torque tube is going in straight. I also use the longer bolts to help pull the TT into place, being careful not use pressure when evenly snugging the bolts.
Separating the TT from the Trans is a very good idea, I've never done it way.
Maybe I'm doing something wrong but when I click on the link it takes me to chillertv.com. I realize this thread is a few years old so maybe that's why. Either way I'm going to be replacing my clutch in the next month or two so if anyone has an updated link or has a copy please for the love all that is good in this world, send it to me........please
03-04-2015, 11:15 PM
I am glad I didn't try that-this is a great Forum.
