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[Z06] C5 Z06 Frequently Asked Questions(FAQ)
12-27-2005, 07:24 PM
#61
Get Some!
Thread Starter
How to add tire pressure sensors.
No, your Z06 never came with them.
Go to the links for the needed pics.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...26&forum_id=49
http://www.stopforce.com/RPO.html
http://www.hunter.com/pub/undercar/TECHLINK/
GM TechLink Magazine Update
January 2003
Tire Pressure Monitoring System Information Addition
A tire pressure monitor (TPM) system is used on Cadillac DeVille, Seville and Chevrolet Corvette. This system was discussed in the November 2000 TechLink. This is a brief review, because there is some new service information available.
Components
There is a separate sensor/transmitter in each wheel. The TPM system shares the receiver with the keyless entry system. Data from the receiver is displayed on the instrument panel, using the driver information center (DIC).
Sensors
The sensor, with built-in valve stem, is inserted from the inside of the wheel, through a hole in the rim. It is retained by a nut (4 N.m, 35 lb. in.) and is sealed by a grommet. A lithium battery with a design life of 10 years powers the sensor.
Each sensor is coded differently. This permits the receiver to determine exactly which tire is over or under-inflated.
Operation
The sensors operate only above 20 mph (32 kph) and transmit once per hour when parked, to preserve battery power.
If the pressure in a tire rises or falls outside the calibration limits, the condition is displayed by the DIC. The low limit is 24 psi (168 kPa) and the upper limit is 39 psi (272 kPa).
Service
The sensors are lightweight, only about an ounce (28 g), and this small weight is easily accounted for during normal tire balancing.
The sensors are mounted within the well of the rim. It’s important to be careful when using a tire-mounting machine. The sensor could be damaged in two ways: either by (1) direct contact with the machinery or (2) by the bead of the tire as it is forced over the rim.
Use care when using tire machine.
Consult tire changer manufacturer’s support material for proper mounting procedures.
Sensor ruined by tire mounting equipment
The valve stem cap is made of aluminum and the valve core is nickel-plated to resist corrosion. The end of the stem serves as the sensor’s antenna.
TIP: Do not replace either the cap or the valve with standard parts. This will interfere with the sensor’s ability to transmit.
TIP: The TPM sensor is more precise than consumer-grade tire pressure gauges. It may be necessary to explain this if the customer routinely mis-inflates tires using a gas station gauge.
Receiver Programming
The receiver is programmed at the factory to recognize which sensor is at each wheel location. If tires are rotated or a sensor is replaced, the receiver must be reprogrammed, following SI procedures.
If the receiver is not reprogrammed, the system will continue to report the correct pressures, but will assign them to the wrong locations on the vehicle.
TIP: There are two reprogramming methods. You must use the J-41760 magnet when a new sensor is installed. During tire rotation, you can use either the magnet or your Tech 2.
J-41760 Magnet
Magnet Method
You will have only one minute between horn chirps, and five minutes overall, to complete the procedure once you start.
With ignition on, engine not running, press both lock and unlock buttons on the key fob. A horn chirp within 10 seconds indicates that the receiver is in programming mode.
At each wheel, hold the J-41760 magnet over the valve stem until the horn chirps, to force the sensor to transmit its code. You must follow this order: LF, RF, RR and LR. The horn chirps twice to indicate completion.
Scroll through the DIC readout to verify all four pressures are displayed.
Tech 2 Method
With the TPM Reprogramming procedure on your Tech 2, you can command each sensor to its new location. As long as no new sensors are being installed, the magnet is not needed.
Scroll through the DIC readout to verify all four pressures are displayed.
Instrument Cluster Module Programming
On the Seville and DeVille models, if you disconnect or replace the IP cluster, the IP module must also be programmed to enable the TPM option. If this is not done, the DIC will not be able to display information from TPM receiver.
Follow this path on your Tech 2.
Body
Instrument Panel Cluster
Special Functions
Set Options
Tire Pressure Monitor
Read the instruction screen, then press Continue
Scroll to highlight the Tire Pressure Monitor
Press the Enter key to place an asterisk * next to the option.
Press the Save Option soft key.
Additional Tips
Because the TPM system shares its receiver with the remote locking system, the TPM function is turned off in vehicles that are built without the TPM system. It is possible to add TPM to one of these vehicles by adding the appropriate wheels and sensors. In this case, the TPM option must be enabled in the receiver.
TIP: If the horn does not chirp at the beginning of the reprogramming procedure (Magnet Method, above), this is a good indication that the TPM option has not been enabled.
Follow this path on your Tech 2:
Body
Remote Function Actuation
Special Functions
Set Options
Tire Pressure Warning
Read the instructions on the next screen, then press Continue.
Scroll to highlight the Tire Pressure Warning Option.
Press the Enter key to put and asterisk * next to the option.
Press the Save Option soft key
The system is now enabled.
If the car’s battery or the receiver is disconnected, or the voltage drops below a certain value, the receiver will lose all sensor Ids. It then sets all four DTCs. In this case, it must be reprogrammed using the magnet.
Sensor Batteries
On the Cadillac system only, the status of the sensor batteries is presented in the TPM data list. The sensors are built to continue to operate for three months after the batteries reach low status. When the battery in a sensor runs down, it is necessary to replace the sensor. Batteries are not serviceable.
Thanks to Russ Dobson, Scott Bower, John Spidle and Chuck Kennedy.
Resetting Tire Pressure Monitors -- 1 of 1
Date Published: 2001-07-02
Submitter's Name: Chris Palfi
Email Address: Private
Corvetteforum.com Member Alias: Brazen C5
I used this message forwarded from a fellow forum memeber and it worked just as described. Thought I would post for anyone else that may need to reset their TPMs. 1) Turn ignition on 2) Press "Reset" button in order to clear any IPC display warning messages 3) Press and release the "Options" button on the DIC to scroll through the display options until the IPC display is blank 4) Press and hold the DIC "Reset" button for 3 seconds 5) Press the "Options" button again until TIRE TRAINING message appears 6) Press "Reset" button until the IPC "Learn L Front Tire" message appears in order to begin the programming 7) Install the J41760 Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) System Programming Tool (large magnet will do) over the left front valve stem 8) The horn will sound, indicating the left front TPM sensor is programmed (if this takes more than 15 seconds, pull magnet back and try again, it will give you three tries. Then you must start over) 9) When the horn sounds, proceed to program the next TPM sensor in the following order as directed by the IPC messages: -Learn R Front Tire -Learn R Rear Tire -Learn L Rear Tire Programming can be canceled by turning ignition off, waiting 2 minutes with no sensors being learned, finishing all 4 wheels or through the DIC. If the programming is canceled with less than 4 sensors learned, it will only accept the codes programmed up to that point.
Go to the links for the needed pics.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...26&forum_id=49
http://www.stopforce.com/RPO.html
http://www.hunter.com/pub/undercar/TECHLINK/
GM TechLink Magazine Update
January 2003
Tire Pressure Monitoring System Information Addition
A tire pressure monitor (TPM) system is used on Cadillac DeVille, Seville and Chevrolet Corvette. This system was discussed in the November 2000 TechLink. This is a brief review, because there is some new service information available.
Components
There is a separate sensor/transmitter in each wheel. The TPM system shares the receiver with the keyless entry system. Data from the receiver is displayed on the instrument panel, using the driver information center (DIC).
Sensors
The sensor, with built-in valve stem, is inserted from the inside of the wheel, through a hole in the rim. It is retained by a nut (4 N.m, 35 lb. in.) and is sealed by a grommet. A lithium battery with a design life of 10 years powers the sensor.
Each sensor is coded differently. This permits the receiver to determine exactly which tire is over or under-inflated.
Operation
The sensors operate only above 20 mph (32 kph) and transmit once per hour when parked, to preserve battery power.
If the pressure in a tire rises or falls outside the calibration limits, the condition is displayed by the DIC. The low limit is 24 psi (168 kPa) and the upper limit is 39 psi (272 kPa).
Service
The sensors are lightweight, only about an ounce (28 g), and this small weight is easily accounted for during normal tire balancing.
The sensors are mounted within the well of the rim. It’s important to be careful when using a tire-mounting machine. The sensor could be damaged in two ways: either by (1) direct contact with the machinery or (2) by the bead of the tire as it is forced over the rim.
Use care when using tire machine.
Consult tire changer manufacturer’s support material for proper mounting procedures.
Sensor ruined by tire mounting equipment
The valve stem cap is made of aluminum and the valve core is nickel-plated to resist corrosion. The end of the stem serves as the sensor’s antenna.
TIP: Do not replace either the cap or the valve with standard parts. This will interfere with the sensor’s ability to transmit.
TIP: The TPM sensor is more precise than consumer-grade tire pressure gauges. It may be necessary to explain this if the customer routinely mis-inflates tires using a gas station gauge.
Receiver Programming
The receiver is programmed at the factory to recognize which sensor is at each wheel location. If tires are rotated or a sensor is replaced, the receiver must be reprogrammed, following SI procedures.
If the receiver is not reprogrammed, the system will continue to report the correct pressures, but will assign them to the wrong locations on the vehicle.
TIP: There are two reprogramming methods. You must use the J-41760 magnet when a new sensor is installed. During tire rotation, you can use either the magnet or your Tech 2.
J-41760 Magnet
Magnet Method
You will have only one minute between horn chirps, and five minutes overall, to complete the procedure once you start.
With ignition on, engine not running, press both lock and unlock buttons on the key fob. A horn chirp within 10 seconds indicates that the receiver is in programming mode.
At each wheel, hold the J-41760 magnet over the valve stem until the horn chirps, to force the sensor to transmit its code. You must follow this order: LF, RF, RR and LR. The horn chirps twice to indicate completion.
Scroll through the DIC readout to verify all four pressures are displayed.
Tech 2 Method
With the TPM Reprogramming procedure on your Tech 2, you can command each sensor to its new location. As long as no new sensors are being installed, the magnet is not needed.
Scroll through the DIC readout to verify all four pressures are displayed.
Instrument Cluster Module Programming
On the Seville and DeVille models, if you disconnect or replace the IP cluster, the IP module must also be programmed to enable the TPM option. If this is not done, the DIC will not be able to display information from TPM receiver.
Follow this path on your Tech 2.
Body
Instrument Panel Cluster
Special Functions
Set Options
Tire Pressure Monitor
Read the instruction screen, then press Continue
Scroll to highlight the Tire Pressure Monitor
Press the Enter key to place an asterisk * next to the option.
Press the Save Option soft key.
Additional Tips
Because the TPM system shares its receiver with the remote locking system, the TPM function is turned off in vehicles that are built without the TPM system. It is possible to add TPM to one of these vehicles by adding the appropriate wheels and sensors. In this case, the TPM option must be enabled in the receiver.
TIP: If the horn does not chirp at the beginning of the reprogramming procedure (Magnet Method, above), this is a good indication that the TPM option has not been enabled.
Follow this path on your Tech 2:
Body
Remote Function Actuation
Special Functions
Set Options
Tire Pressure Warning
Read the instructions on the next screen, then press Continue.
Scroll to highlight the Tire Pressure Warning Option.
Press the Enter key to put and asterisk * next to the option.
Press the Save Option soft key
The system is now enabled.
If the car’s battery or the receiver is disconnected, or the voltage drops below a certain value, the receiver will lose all sensor Ids. It then sets all four DTCs. In this case, it must be reprogrammed using the magnet.
Sensor Batteries
On the Cadillac system only, the status of the sensor batteries is presented in the TPM data list. The sensors are built to continue to operate for three months after the batteries reach low status. When the battery in a sensor runs down, it is necessary to replace the sensor. Batteries are not serviceable.
Thanks to Russ Dobson, Scott Bower, John Spidle and Chuck Kennedy.
Resetting Tire Pressure Monitors -- 1 of 1
Date Published: 2001-07-02
Submitter's Name: Chris Palfi
Email Address: Private
Corvetteforum.com Member Alias: Brazen C5
I used this message forwarded from a fellow forum memeber and it worked just as described. Thought I would post for anyone else that may need to reset their TPMs. 1) Turn ignition on 2) Press "Reset" button in order to clear any IPC display warning messages 3) Press and release the "Options" button on the DIC to scroll through the display options until the IPC display is blank 4) Press and hold the DIC "Reset" button for 3 seconds 5) Press the "Options" button again until TIRE TRAINING message appears 6) Press "Reset" button until the IPC "Learn L Front Tire" message appears in order to begin the programming 7) Install the J41760 Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) System Programming Tool (large magnet will do) over the left front valve stem 8) The horn will sound, indicating the left front TPM sensor is programmed (if this takes more than 15 seconds, pull magnet back and try again, it will give you three tries. Then you must start over) 9) When the horn sounds, proceed to program the next TPM sensor in the following order as directed by the IPC messages: -Learn R Front Tire -Learn R Rear Tire -Learn L Rear Tire Programming can be canceled by turning ignition off, waiting 2 minutes with no sensors being learned, finishing all 4 wheels or through the DIC. If the programming is canceled with less than 4 sensors learned, it will only accept the codes programmed up to that point.
Last edited by LTC Z06; 12-27-2005 at 07:30 PM.
03-07-2006, 05:49 PM
#63
Get Some!
Thread Starter
How to jack up your C5/6.
...
Originally Posted by Vet
Here is a method for jacking and supporting a C6 using ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations. All four wheels off the ground. Lots of room under the car to work (oil changes, etc.) Very secure.
All that's needed are two rolling hydraulic floor jacks, four jack stands, two cross beam adapters and a few planks.
In the photos below, the rolling hydraulic jack used at the front of the car is an AC DK13HLQ low-profile, long-reach jack. It fits just right, reaches the larger front cross member of the car and still sticks out far enough to allow full pumping of lever. Other hydraulic floor jacks may work here, you'll have to experiment.
The cross beam adapters - you'll need two. Only $29.99 each from NorthernTool.com. As shown in photos, the adapter used at the rear of the car can be left stock. The one used at the front of the car must be altered slightly.... just pull off the side extensions and add rubber pads on top of the main center piece at each end.
Note: in order to use the above described cross beam adapter in an AC brand jack, you will need to grind the 1.15" main pin of the adapter down a bit since the hole in AC jacks is only 1.00" (unlike most American jacks which have a 1.130" hole).
Directions:
1. -Get front wheels 2" - 3" above the ground by driving up on some planks
2. -Place jack with "altered" cross beam adapter under front main cross member of car (underneath the PREFERRED jacking locations)... make sure the rubber pads on the adapter touch only the preferred jacking locations... nothing will touch center of cross member
3. - Place two jack stands under the cross beam adapter, directly under the preferred jacking locations, lower weight of car onto stands, leave jack in place for added safety
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for rear of car, except use "stock" cross beam adapter
Car is now off the ground and fully supported by ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations.
All that's needed are two rolling hydraulic floor jacks, four jack stands, two cross beam adapters and a few planks.
In the photos below, the rolling hydraulic jack used at the front of the car is an AC DK13HLQ low-profile, long-reach jack. It fits just right, reaches the larger front cross member of the car and still sticks out far enough to allow full pumping of lever. Other hydraulic floor jacks may work here, you'll have to experiment.
The cross beam adapters - you'll need two. Only $29.99 each from NorthernTool.com. As shown in photos, the adapter used at the rear of the car can be left stock. The one used at the front of the car must be altered slightly.... just pull off the side extensions and add rubber pads on top of the main center piece at each end.
Note: in order to use the above described cross beam adapter in an AC brand jack, you will need to grind the 1.15" main pin of the adapter down a bit since the hole in AC jacks is only 1.00" (unlike most American jacks which have a 1.130" hole).
Directions:
1. -Get front wheels 2" - 3" above the ground by driving up on some planks
2. -Place jack with "altered" cross beam adapter under front main cross member of car (underneath the PREFERRED jacking locations)... make sure the rubber pads on the adapter touch only the preferred jacking locations... nothing will touch center of cross member
3. - Place two jack stands under the cross beam adapter, directly under the preferred jacking locations, lower weight of car onto stands, leave jack in place for added safety
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for rear of car, except use "stock" cross beam adapter
Car is now off the ground and fully supported by ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations.
Originally Posted by ProfMoriarty
Thanks to some outstanding CF member write ups, I've realized the advantages of utilizing a Nothern Supply beam adapter to lift a C6 at the preferred lift points.
For those of us who own the popular Craftsman aluminum 2 ton floor jack, a little effort is required to use it with the adapter (beyond ramps to elevate the front of the car enough to use the jack in the first place).
In order to remove the lifting pad, remove the split ring from one grooved end of the steel support pin that traverses the jack pad and lifting arms and remove the support pin.
This will expose a hole in the lifting arm that will accommodate the beam adapter pin.
Problem is, without the steel support pin there is no means of operating the jack and with the support pin in place the adapter pin is obstructed.
Choice one: Cut or grind down the adapter pin until 3/8" or less remains so the adapter can rest flat on the jack.
I went with Choice two:
(2) 2 1/2" (measured from the end of the bolt to the contact surface of the head of the bolt) grade 8 hardened 1/2" bolts. These bolts have a non-threaded surface of about 7/8".
Thread a 1/2" nylon locking nut firmly down to the end of the threads;ie: the non-threaded surface. (The nut will protect the proper amount of thread and make cutting simple as well as allow the vise to secure the bolt for cutting without it moving.)
Clamp in a vise and cut off the exposed threads with a carbide or diamond cutting wheel.
Remove the nut, clean up the cut end with a fine file.
Add a 1/2" SAE washer to each bolt, pop 'em into the lifting arm holes, and thread into a 1/2" non-locking nut (nylon locking nuts are too long) with blue thread locker.
Fin!
For those of us who own the popular Craftsman aluminum 2 ton floor jack, a little effort is required to use it with the adapter (beyond ramps to elevate the front of the car enough to use the jack in the first place).
In order to remove the lifting pad, remove the split ring from one grooved end of the steel support pin that traverses the jack pad and lifting arms and remove the support pin.
This will expose a hole in the lifting arm that will accommodate the beam adapter pin.
Problem is, without the steel support pin there is no means of operating the jack and with the support pin in place the adapter pin is obstructed.
Choice one: Cut or grind down the adapter pin until 3/8" or less remains so the adapter can rest flat on the jack.
I went with Choice two:
(2) 2 1/2" (measured from the end of the bolt to the contact surface of the head of the bolt) grade 8 hardened 1/2" bolts. These bolts have a non-threaded surface of about 7/8".
Thread a 1/2" nylon locking nut firmly down to the end of the threads;ie: the non-threaded surface. (The nut will protect the proper amount of thread and make cutting simple as well as allow the vise to secure the bolt for cutting without it moving.)
Clamp in a vise and cut off the exposed threads with a carbide or diamond cutting wheel.
Remove the nut, clean up the cut end with a fine file.
Add a 1/2" SAE washer to each bolt, pop 'em into the lifting arm holes, and thread into a 1/2" non-locking nut (nylon locking nuts are too long) with blue thread locker.
Fin!
06-05-2006, 12:30 PM
#64
Get Some!
Thread Starter
Clutch pedal issues.
12-07-2010, 01:10 PM
#65
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
This post is a KEEPER!
Ive added it to my C5 post that everyone must have!
Bill
Ive added it to my C5 post that everyone must have!
Bill
12-19-2010, 01:20 PM
#67
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Plug wires
Warrren
The GM Performance red wires that Gene Culley (www.gmpartshouse.com ) sells is one of the best quality wires you can get. Don't fall for HP gain on plugs and wires. There just isn't any to be had. Look for a quality wire with the correct hardware that fits properly on the coil towers and utilizes the metal boot protectors!
Contact Gene or Patrick for good deals:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...artshouse.html
The Iridium plugs are also the ones to get. Again, NO HP Gains in brands of plugs either.
BC
12-23-2010, 06:18 PM
#68
Supporting Tuner
12-23-2010, 08:52 PM
#69
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I know you work some L O N G H A R D hours so, no slam. You sure that you posted in the correct post??
01-12-2011, 11:49 AM
#70
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Sep 2009
Location: Huntington Beach California
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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0 Posts
Not only are new post added, but I also add content to existing post; and because of a change you can add over 5,000 views to the views you see!
Feel free to correct me if I post incorrect info, but provide a link or proof.
Quick word search: Press control F and you will get a find box. Type in whatever you are looking for ie: brakes and zip right to the next mention of that keyword.
Table of contents:
Post #! Tranny info, fastener torque specs, alignment specs, and corvette forum acronyms
Post #2 Torsional rigidity and the fixed roof coupe.
Post #3 General C5 info
Post #4 Difference between 01 Z06 and C5
Post #5 Difference between 01 and 02 (02 & 03 the same)
Post #6 Difference between 02/03 and 04 and Z16 pkg
Post #7 Do you want to track or auto cross your Z06?
Post #8 C5 Tech tips
Post #9 2d Generation Active Handling
Post #10 2001 oil consumption problems
Post #11 C5 and general audio FAQ
Post #12 Steering Column Lock FAQs/Also known as, Pull key wait ten seconds
Post #13 How to lower
Post #14 Head CC volume vs Compression Ratio
Post #15 All the LS1/6 cam shaft info and head flow numbers
Post #16 Maximum tire sizes
Post #17 Ram air and cold air filter systems
Post #18 Gasoline and octane facts.
Post #19 C5 Heads Up Display Retrofit
Post #20 Install a CD Changer
Post #21 Engine and tranny oil discussions
Post #22 Aftermarket body pieces, paint, wheels, etc.
Post #23 How to add fog lights
Post #24 How to remove your license plate frame
Post #25 Flat tire repair and a spare for the Z06!
Post #26 Z06 cabin partitions
Post #27 How to read tire info
Post #28 DIC codes
Post #29 Will modifications void your warranty? MAGNUSON MOSS WARRANTY ACT
Post #30 2004 color production info
Post #31 Charge System Fault Message
Post #32 Z06 gas mileage
Post #33 Clutch pedal soft, sticks to the floor?
Post #34 8 inch subwoofer in the door
Post #35 Various Z06 accessories
Post #36 How to use a "Sharpie" pen to color lettering on your dashboard
Post #37 Campbell Hausfield air/water separator PVC mod
Post #38 C6 shifter in a C5
Post #39 Water dripping from AC under the dash
Post #40 Would you drive your Z06 in the snow?
Post #41 All the C6 Z06 specs are here
Post #42 How to change pads and rotors, and other brake info.
Post #43 History of the Corvette name and symbol
Post #44 Z06 and other wheel weights and sizes
Post #45 Picture Tutorial Helping YOU take better pictures of your C5
Post #46 Me at the Nurburgring
Post #47 Transmission service bulletin
Post #48 Scratch or damage a wheel?
Post #49 How to polish your Route 66 tips
Post #50 Is it Z oh 6 or Z zero 6?
Post #51/57/58 C6 Z06 brakes on a C5
Post #52 Differential/axle seal leaks?
Post #53 X or H pipe
Post #54 Ti vs Aftermarket HP difference? & How to polish your Ti exhaust tips
Post #55 How to distinguish between LS1 and LS6
Post #56 Is a Z06 just a C5 with bolt ons?
Post #59 iPOD your car
Post #60 Clear corner light install how to
Post #61 How to add tire pressure sensors
Post #62 Did this fall off your Z06?
Post #63 How to jack up your C5.
Post #64 Clutch issues and fluid changing.
I'll start:
The Tremec No. for a M6 is1386-000-023. Look at your tran. tag, and in the middle set of nos at the bottom of the tag will have 4 digits the first three coinciding with the last three digits in the Tremec no. If it is 023 is is a M6 if it is 025 it is a M12, Tremec no. 1386-000-025 Further there will be a sticker on the top of the trans. with DXB which I was told was indicative of a M12 only.
Tranny specs:
Coupe Z06
2.66 2.97
1.78 2.07
1.30 1.43
1.00 1.00
.74 .84
.5 .56
From David Farmer one of our World Challenge racers:
http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/c5-fuse.pdf C5 fuse layout-not year specific
http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/C5torque.PDF All engine/suspension/brake/drivetrain torque specs
http://www.metricchemical.com/align.PDF my diy alignment guide
http://www.metricchemical.com/fbody.pdf F-body torque sheet
and lastly, DTC (trouble codes) for C5's
http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/dtc-c5.PDF
I print these front/back, laminate, and keep in my tool box.
Wheel Alignment Specifications
RPO
Operation
Service Preferred
Tolerance
Front Alignment Specifications
All
Front Individual Toe
+ 0.04
+/- 0.10
All
Front Sum Toe
+ 0.08
+/- 0.20
All
Steering Wheel Angle
0.0
+/- 1.0
FE1 & FE3
Front Individual Caster
+ 7.4
+/- 0.5
FE1 & FE3
Front Cross Caster
Within +/- 0.5
--
FE1 & FE3
Front Individual Camber
- 0.20
+/- 0.5
FE1 & FE3
Front Cross Camber
Within +/-0.5
--
FE4 (Z06)
Front Individual Caster
+ 6.9
+/- 0.5
FE4 (Z06)
Front Cross Caster
Within +/- 0.5
--
FE4 (Z06)
Front Individual Camber
- 0.70
+/- 0.5
FE4 (Z06)
Front Cross Camber
Within +/- 0.5
--
Rear Alignment Specifications
All
Rear Individual Toe
- 0.01
+/- 0.10
All
Rear Sum Toe
- 0.02
+/- 0.20
All
Rear Thrust Angle
0.0
+/- 0.10
FE1 & FE3
Rear Individual Camber
- 0.18
+/- 0.5
FE1 & FE3
Rear Cross Camber
Within +/- 0.5
--
FE4 (Z06)
Rear Individual Camber
- 0.68
+/- 0.5
FE4 (Z06)
Rear Cross Camber
Within +/- 0.5
--
Corvette Forum Acronyms:
A4 – 4-speed Automatic Tranny
A6 - Automatic 6 speed tranny
AB - Auto Buffs
AFAIK - As Far As I Know
AH – Corvette Active Handling
ARE - Agostino Racing Engines
BBL - Be Back Later
BFD - Big...Fat... Deal
BFN - Bye For Now
BOHICA - Bend Over, Here It Comes
BPP - Breathless Performance Products
BRB - Be Right Back
BSOD - Blue Screen Of Death - the windows "Crash" screen
BSM - Body Side Moldings
BTW - By The Way
C1 - C6 = The 6 generations of the Corvette
CF - Carbon Fiber
CAI - Cold Air Intakes
COH - Corvettes of Houston
DILLIGAS - Do I Look Like I Give A S---
DILLIGAF - A more emphatic version of DILLIGAS
FI – Forced Induction
FRC – Fixed Roof Coupe
FRC - Fuel Rail Covers
FUBAR - "Fixed" Up Beyond All Recognition
FUD - Fear, Uncertainty, Doubt - BS intended to scare you about a product.
FWIW - For What It's Worth
FYI - For Your Information
g - grin - usually in brackets or angles <g> or [g]
bg - big grin
vbg - very big grin
vbseg - very big stuff eating grin
gd&h - grinning, ducking and hiding
gd&r - grinning, ducking and running
gd&r,vvf - grinning, ducking and running, very very fast
GMAB - Give Me A Break
GMAFB - a vehement version of Give Me A Break <g>
H/C – Heads Cam Pkg
HSIK - How Should I Know
HT - Hardtop (related to FRC)
IAC - In Any Case
IAE - In Any Event
IANAL - I Am Not A Lawyer
IBIWISI - I'll Believe It When I See It
IBTL - In Before The Lock
IBTM - In Before The Move
INAL - I'm Not A Lawyer
IMO - In My Opinion
IMHO - In My Humble Opinion
IMMHO - In My Most Humble Opinion
IOW - In Other Words
IYKWIM - If you know what I mean
JFYI - Just For Your Information
JMHO - Just My Humble Opinion
JMO - Just My Opinion
KMA - Kiss My ...Ahem....
LOL - Laughing Out Loud
LMAO - Laughing My <ahem> Off
LPE - Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
LTFSA - Leave The Fine Settings Alone
MN12 – Z06 6-speed
MN6 – Corvette 6-speed
NBD - No Big Deal
NBR - Nurburgring
NOYB - None Of Your Business
NOYDB - A forceful version of NOYB <g>
NOYFB - A an even more forceful version of NOYB <g>
NRN - No Reply Necessary
OIC - Oh, I See
OMG – Oh My God
OTL - Out To Lunch
OTOH - On The Other Hand
PFM - Pure Freaking Magic
PIMP - Peeing In My Pants (laughing so hard....)
PITA - Pain In The A**
PMFBI - Pardon Me For Butting In
PMFJI - Pardon Me For Jumping In
PMJI - Pardon My Jumping In
POS - Piece of S---
PTB - Powers That Be
RNA - Ring, No Answer (communication or telephone term for a problem)
ROFL - Rolling On Floor Laughing
ROTF - Rolling On The Floor
ROTF,L - Rolling On The Floor, Laughing
RSN - Real Soon Now
RTFM - Read The Fine Manual
RYFM - Read Your Fine Manual
SOTP - Seat Of The Pants
SNAFU - Situation Normal, All "fixed" Up
SW - Specter Werkes
TANJ - There Ain't No Justice
TANSTAAFL - There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch
TC – Corvette Traction Control
TDNBW - This Does Not Bode Well
TIA - Thanks In Advance
TIC - Tongue In Cheek
TMTOYH - Too much time on your hands
TMI - Too much information
TMUI - Too much useless information
TPTB - The Powers That Be
TSTO - To Stupid To Operate
TTFN - Ta Ta For Now
TTT – To the Top (when posting to a thread to bring it back to the top)
TTYL - Talk (or Type <g> ) To You Later
UABFH - Use A Bigger Freaking Hammer!
VE - Vette Essentials
WAD - Working As Designed (... is a feature, not a bug)
WAG - Wild A-- Guess.
SWAG - Super or Scientific WAG
WAM - World According to MSFT (MicroSoft)
WGAS - Who Gives A S---
WGAF - A more emphative version of WGAS
WOA - Work Of Art
WOT - Wide Open Throttle
WSMM - Well Shut My Mouth (Southern Computers Only)
WTH - What The H---
WTF - What The F---
WCC - West Coast Corvettes
WYSIWYG - What you see is what you get
Y2K - year 2000
YHIHF - You Heard It Hear First
YMMV - Your Mileage May Vary THANK YOU MR. AND MRS. SULLY
Feel free to correct me if I post incorrect info, but provide a link or proof.
Quick word search: Press control F and you will get a find box. Type in whatever you are looking for ie: brakes and zip right to the next mention of that keyword.
Table of contents:
Post #! Tranny info, fastener torque specs, alignment specs, and corvette forum acronyms
Post #2 Torsional rigidity and the fixed roof coupe.
Post #3 General C5 info
Post #4 Difference between 01 Z06 and C5
Post #5 Difference between 01 and 02 (02 & 03 the same)
Post #6 Difference between 02/03 and 04 and Z16 pkg
Post #7 Do you want to track or auto cross your Z06?
Post #8 C5 Tech tips
Post #9 2d Generation Active Handling
Post #10 2001 oil consumption problems
Post #11 C5 and general audio FAQ
Post #12 Steering Column Lock FAQs/Also known as, Pull key wait ten seconds
Post #13 How to lower
Post #14 Head CC volume vs Compression Ratio
Post #15 All the LS1/6 cam shaft info and head flow numbers
Post #16 Maximum tire sizes
Post #17 Ram air and cold air filter systems
Post #18 Gasoline and octane facts.
Post #19 C5 Heads Up Display Retrofit
Post #20 Install a CD Changer
Post #21 Engine and tranny oil discussions
Post #22 Aftermarket body pieces, paint, wheels, etc.
Post #23 How to add fog lights
Post #24 How to remove your license plate frame
Post #25 Flat tire repair and a spare for the Z06!
Post #26 Z06 cabin partitions
Post #27 How to read tire info
Post #28 DIC codes
Post #29 Will modifications void your warranty? MAGNUSON MOSS WARRANTY ACT
Post #30 2004 color production info
Post #31 Charge System Fault Message
Post #32 Z06 gas mileage
Post #33 Clutch pedal soft, sticks to the floor?
Post #34 8 inch subwoofer in the door
Post #35 Various Z06 accessories
Post #36 How to use a "Sharpie" pen to color lettering on your dashboard
Post #37 Campbell Hausfield air/water separator PVC mod
Post #38 C6 shifter in a C5
Post #39 Water dripping from AC under the dash
Post #40 Would you drive your Z06 in the snow?
Post #41 All the C6 Z06 specs are here
Post #42 How to change pads and rotors, and other brake info.
Post #43 History of the Corvette name and symbol
Post #44 Z06 and other wheel weights and sizes
Post #45 Picture Tutorial Helping YOU take better pictures of your C5
Post #46 Me at the Nurburgring
Post #47 Transmission service bulletin
Post #48 Scratch or damage a wheel?
Post #49 How to polish your Route 66 tips
Post #50 Is it Z oh 6 or Z zero 6?
Post #51/57/58 C6 Z06 brakes on a C5
Post #52 Differential/axle seal leaks?
Post #53 X or H pipe
Post #54 Ti vs Aftermarket HP difference? & How to polish your Ti exhaust tips
Post #55 How to distinguish between LS1 and LS6
Post #56 Is a Z06 just a C5 with bolt ons?
Post #59 iPOD your car
Post #60 Clear corner light install how to
Post #61 How to add tire pressure sensors
Post #62 Did this fall off your Z06?
Post #63 How to jack up your C5.
Post #64 Clutch issues and fluid changing.
I'll start:
The Tremec No. for a M6 is1386-000-023. Look at your tran. tag, and in the middle set of nos at the bottom of the tag will have 4 digits the first three coinciding with the last three digits in the Tremec no. If it is 023 is is a M6 if it is 025 it is a M12, Tremec no. 1386-000-025 Further there will be a sticker on the top of the trans. with DXB which I was told was indicative of a M12 only.
Tranny specs:
Coupe Z06
2.66 2.97
1.78 2.07
1.30 1.43
1.00 1.00
.74 .84
.5 .56
From David Farmer one of our World Challenge racers:
http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/c5-fuse.pdf C5 fuse layout-not year specific
http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/C5torque.PDF All engine/suspension/brake/drivetrain torque specs
http://www.metricchemical.com/align.PDF my diy alignment guide
http://www.metricchemical.com/fbody.pdf F-body torque sheet
and lastly, DTC (trouble codes) for C5's
http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/dtc-c5.PDF
I print these front/back, laminate, and keep in my tool box.
Wheel Alignment Specifications
RPO
Operation
Service Preferred
Tolerance
Front Alignment Specifications
All
Front Individual Toe
+ 0.04
+/- 0.10
All
Front Sum Toe
+ 0.08
+/- 0.20
All
Steering Wheel Angle
0.0
+/- 1.0
FE1 & FE3
Front Individual Caster
+ 7.4
+/- 0.5
FE1 & FE3
Front Cross Caster
Within +/- 0.5
--
FE1 & FE3
Front Individual Camber
- 0.20
+/- 0.5
FE1 & FE3
Front Cross Camber
Within +/-0.5
--
FE4 (Z06)
Front Individual Caster
+ 6.9
+/- 0.5
FE4 (Z06)
Front Cross Caster
Within +/- 0.5
--
FE4 (Z06)
Front Individual Camber
- 0.70
+/- 0.5
FE4 (Z06)
Front Cross Camber
Within +/- 0.5
--
Rear Alignment Specifications
All
Rear Individual Toe
- 0.01
+/- 0.10
All
Rear Sum Toe
- 0.02
+/- 0.20
All
Rear Thrust Angle
0.0
+/- 0.10
FE1 & FE3
Rear Individual Camber
- 0.18
+/- 0.5
FE1 & FE3
Rear Cross Camber
Within +/- 0.5
--
FE4 (Z06)
Rear Individual Camber
- 0.68
+/- 0.5
FE4 (Z06)
Rear Cross Camber
Within +/- 0.5
--
Corvette Forum Acronyms:
A4 – 4-speed Automatic Tranny
A6 - Automatic 6 speed tranny
AB - Auto Buffs
AFAIK - As Far As I Know
AH – Corvette Active Handling
ARE - Agostino Racing Engines
BBL - Be Back Later
BFD - Big...Fat... Deal
BFN - Bye For Now
BOHICA - Bend Over, Here It Comes
BPP - Breathless Performance Products
BRB - Be Right Back
BSOD - Blue Screen Of Death - the windows "Crash" screen
BSM - Body Side Moldings
BTW - By The Way
C1 - C6 = The 6 generations of the Corvette
CF - Carbon Fiber
CAI - Cold Air Intakes
COH - Corvettes of Houston
DILLIGAS - Do I Look Like I Give A S---
DILLIGAF - A more emphatic version of DILLIGAS
FI – Forced Induction
FRC – Fixed Roof Coupe
FRC - Fuel Rail Covers
FUBAR - "Fixed" Up Beyond All Recognition
FUD - Fear, Uncertainty, Doubt - BS intended to scare you about a product.
FWIW - For What It's Worth
FYI - For Your Information
g - grin - usually in brackets or angles <g> or [g]
bg - big grin
vbg - very big grin
vbseg - very big stuff eating grin
gd&h - grinning, ducking and hiding
gd&r - grinning, ducking and running
gd&r,vvf - grinning, ducking and running, very very fast
GMAB - Give Me A Break
GMAFB - a vehement version of Give Me A Break <g>
H/C – Heads Cam Pkg
HSIK - How Should I Know
HT - Hardtop (related to FRC)
IAC - In Any Case
IAE - In Any Event
IANAL - I Am Not A Lawyer
IBIWISI - I'll Believe It When I See It
IBTL - In Before The Lock
IBTM - In Before The Move
INAL - I'm Not A Lawyer
IMO - In My Opinion
IMHO - In My Humble Opinion
IMMHO - In My Most Humble Opinion
IOW - In Other Words
IYKWIM - If you know what I mean
JFYI - Just For Your Information
JMHO - Just My Humble Opinion
JMO - Just My Opinion
KMA - Kiss My ...Ahem....
LOL - Laughing Out Loud
LMAO - Laughing My <ahem> Off
LPE - Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
LTFSA - Leave The Fine Settings Alone
MN12 – Z06 6-speed
MN6 – Corvette 6-speed
NBD - No Big Deal
NBR - Nurburgring
NOYB - None Of Your Business
NOYDB - A forceful version of NOYB <g>
NOYFB - A an even more forceful version of NOYB <g>
NRN - No Reply Necessary
OIC - Oh, I See
OMG – Oh My God
OTL - Out To Lunch
OTOH - On The Other Hand
PFM - Pure Freaking Magic
PIMP - Peeing In My Pants (laughing so hard....)
PITA - Pain In The A**
PMFBI - Pardon Me For Butting In
PMFJI - Pardon Me For Jumping In
PMJI - Pardon My Jumping In
POS - Piece of S---
PTB - Powers That Be
RNA - Ring, No Answer (communication or telephone term for a problem)
ROFL - Rolling On Floor Laughing
ROTF - Rolling On The Floor
ROTF,L - Rolling On The Floor, Laughing
RSN - Real Soon Now
RTFM - Read The Fine Manual
RYFM - Read Your Fine Manual
SOTP - Seat Of The Pants
SNAFU - Situation Normal, All "fixed" Up
SW - Specter Werkes
TANJ - There Ain't No Justice
TANSTAAFL - There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch
TC – Corvette Traction Control
TDNBW - This Does Not Bode Well
TIA - Thanks In Advance
TIC - Tongue In Cheek
TMTOYH - Too much time on your hands
TMI - Too much information
TMUI - Too much useless information
TPTB - The Powers That Be
TSTO - To Stupid To Operate
TTFN - Ta Ta For Now
TTT – To the Top (when posting to a thread to bring it back to the top)
TTYL - Talk (or Type <g> ) To You Later
UABFH - Use A Bigger Freaking Hammer!
VE - Vette Essentials
WAD - Working As Designed (... is a feature, not a bug)
WAG - Wild A-- Guess.
SWAG - Super or Scientific WAG
WAM - World According to MSFT (MicroSoft)
WGAS - Who Gives A S---
WGAF - A more emphative version of WGAS
WOA - Work Of Art
WOT - Wide Open Throttle
WSMM - Well Shut My Mouth (Southern Computers Only)
WTH - What The H---
WTF - What The F---
WCC - West Coast Corvettes
WYSIWYG - What you see is what you get
Y2K - year 2000
YHIHF - You Heard It Hear First
YMMV - Your Mileage May Vary THANK YOU MR. AND MRS. SULLY
Last edited by ZEE-OH-6; 03-03-2011 at 12:40 AM.
07-03-2011, 05:27 PM
#72
Advanced
LTC ZO6 / Forum Members,
Not sure I'm doing this right but here goes. It's been a long time since I posted or asked any questions on the Forum and I can see that it's changed quite a bit. I need to change out the Chromed GM OEM wheels on my 2003 ZO6. I swapped my original gray painted wheels to Corvettes of Houston about a month after I purchased the car (brand new) and after about eight years the chrome is beginning to pit and flake. Yes, the Chromed wheels I received from Corvettes of Houston are GM wheels .... complete with GM part numbers cast into them. In fact, they are the 2001 cast wheels not the spun cast that came on the 02,03 & 04 models. Corvettes of Houston does not offter this purchase / swap option any longer and it appears no one is willing to "swap out" my old OEM chromed wheels for another set. Does anyone know if all wheel / tire dealers have the same policy???? If so, I guess I'm just stuck with the old chromed GM OEM wheels.
I spoke to a guy at West Coast Corvettes and he's got a set of chromed OEM for about $1,400 and he didn't even want my current wheels on a core or trade replacement. Is there a market for "used" Chromed GM OEM ZO6 wheels?
Thanks, Glen Tryer
gtryer@gt.rr.com
Not sure I'm doing this right but here goes. It's been a long time since I posted or asked any questions on the Forum and I can see that it's changed quite a bit. I need to change out the Chromed GM OEM wheels on my 2003 ZO6. I swapped my original gray painted wheels to Corvettes of Houston about a month after I purchased the car (brand new) and after about eight years the chrome is beginning to pit and flake. Yes, the Chromed wheels I received from Corvettes of Houston are GM wheels .... complete with GM part numbers cast into them. In fact, they are the 2001 cast wheels not the spun cast that came on the 02,03 & 04 models. Corvettes of Houston does not offter this purchase / swap option any longer and it appears no one is willing to "swap out" my old OEM chromed wheels for another set. Does anyone know if all wheel / tire dealers have the same policy???? If so, I guess I'm just stuck with the old chromed GM OEM wheels.
I spoke to a guy at West Coast Corvettes and he's got a set of chromed OEM for about $1,400 and he didn't even want my current wheels on a core or trade replacement. Is there a market for "used" Chromed GM OEM ZO6 wheels?
Thanks, Glen Tryer
gtryer@gt.rr.com
11-21-2011, 02:50 PM
#73
I was reading the "How to Lower your C5" post, and I noticed the procedure for lowering the rear was backwards.
Instead of tightening (CW) the bolt, you need to loosen (CCW) the bolt.
I bolded the text that I believe is incorrect.
Can someone confirm this?
Instead of tightening (CW) the bolt, you need to loosen (CCW) the bolt.
I bolded the text that I believe is incorrect.
Can someone confirm this?
http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/hobbi...5_Lowering.htm
The link has pics.
Lowering the C5 Corvette
using the "ride height adjustment bolts"
Based on various postings on various forums the prevailint opinion is that you can lower the rear of your C5 up to about 1" and the front to 3/4" safely with the stock bolts if you have the Z-51 suspension. If you have the base suspension (FE1) or the Continuously Variable Real Time Damping (F45) suspension, opinions on the net (not backed up with any facts) suggest that damage to the suspension may occur if FE1 or F45 suspensions are lowered this far. Some kind of undefined, serious damage can occur if an F45 car is lowered. No one has said what kind of damage or how serious or where it occurs, etc. Could be an urban legend, I suppose.
I checked with automotive author and C5 guru Hib Halverson who said: "Both Delphi and the Corvette Team people told me that F45 has a problem with lowered cars and increased damping, i.e.: the car rides more stiffly." and "I think you can use the spring jack screws to lower the car as much as that will allow. Then road test the car, if you don't like the ride, simply crank up the adjustment again." Followed by: "There won't be damage to the shocks. What I was told is that the F45 system "sees" the decrease in ride height and sometimes increases damping during normal driving where ordinarily there would be no increase." Keep in mind that F45 cars have base springs. Softly sprung cars may have more of a problem with lowering than will Z51s.
So, based on my research, it appears that you can lower the FE1 and F45 about 1/2" in the front and rear safely. Adjusting both front and rear bolts to their maximum will give you approximately 3/4" in the front and 1" in the rear (this will vary from car to car). While this does not sound like much, it makes the car look and feel a lot lower. My air dam was 2" off the road after the procedure. I am considering either cutting off the lower one inch of the air dam or raising the car about 1/2" so it won't scrape so much.
Before starting, measure the height of the front and rear wheel wells from the ground through the center of the wheel. It should be somewhere around 27-3/8" in front and 28-5/8" in the rear. Remember these numbers. Some suggest that the rear lowering can be done without raising the car - well, I'm too big to get under my car unless it is raised - so, the procedure is outlined below.
Lowering the Rear:
1. With the car on a level surface and the front wheels blocked, jack the rear of the car and support with two jack stands. It is actually easier to do the lowering if the wheels are removed, especially when it is time to measure the bolt height to ensure that the car will be level (you might want to remove the wheels now also).
2. At each end of the transverse leaf spring, locate a long bolt, with the threaded up pointed upward. You should see about 1 inch to 1-1/2 inches of exposed thread on the bolt (this is on the top of the leaf spring). Using an 18 mm socket and ratchet on the bottom of the bolt, tighten (clockwise) until there are only two or three threads exposed on the top part of the bolt. Use an 18 mm wrench to hold the top nut in place as you turn the bolt.
Rear Before
Rear After
3. Leave two or three threads exposed before it contacts the nut. The nut has a small "C" clip on it so it won't back out. It takes about 5 minutes per side to lower the rear about 1". It is a good idea to measure the exposed threads on each side to ensure they are the same.
Lowering the Front: The front, the car definitely has to be raised.
1. With the car safely raised and on jack stands and the front wheels removed, find the end of the transverse leaf spring next to the shock. Locate the 10 mm end of the ride height adjustment bolt. It has a retainer clip.
Front Before
2. With some suspensions (like the F45) it is easier to get at the top of the bolt if the lower shock absorber bolts (13 mm) are removed so the shock can be moved out of the way.
3. Using a 10 mm socket on the top of the stud, turn counter-clockwise (like unscrewing - even though you are not, you are just on the opposite end of the bolt so it looks that way) until tight.
4. Back off the bolt about a 1/8 to ¼ turn to ensure it does not freeze in place in case you want to raise the car at some future date.
Front After
5. Re attach the lower shock mounts, put the wheels back on and remove the jack stands.
At this point, the car may not appear to have been lowered very much. Take it for a drive around the block and allow things to settle (and it *will* settle quite a bit). Then, with the car parked in the same spot, re-measure the height of the wheel wells as above. The difference between the two measurements is the amount the car was lowered. Make sure that both sides of the front and rear measure the same. Adjust as necessary.
Drive the car for a week or so then have the alignment checked by a good shop. Align as necessary. If the car feels like the suspension is riding on the rebound bumpers, you may be too low - The best fix is to raise the car by about ¼" and test driving again.
How will lowering affect the car?http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...21&forum_id=49
The link has pics.
Lowering the C5 Corvette
using the "ride height adjustment bolts"
Based on various postings on various forums the prevailint opinion is that you can lower the rear of your C5 up to about 1" and the front to 3/4" safely with the stock bolts if you have the Z-51 suspension. If you have the base suspension (FE1) or the Continuously Variable Real Time Damping (F45) suspension, opinions on the net (not backed up with any facts) suggest that damage to the suspension may occur if FE1 or F45 suspensions are lowered this far. Some kind of undefined, serious damage can occur if an F45 car is lowered. No one has said what kind of damage or how serious or where it occurs, etc. Could be an urban legend, I suppose.
I checked with automotive author and C5 guru Hib Halverson who said: "Both Delphi and the Corvette Team people told me that F45 has a problem with lowered cars and increased damping, i.e.: the car rides more stiffly." and "I think you can use the spring jack screws to lower the car as much as that will allow. Then road test the car, if you don't like the ride, simply crank up the adjustment again." Followed by: "There won't be damage to the shocks. What I was told is that the F45 system "sees" the decrease in ride height and sometimes increases damping during normal driving where ordinarily there would be no increase." Keep in mind that F45 cars have base springs. Softly sprung cars may have more of a problem with lowering than will Z51s.
So, based on my research, it appears that you can lower the FE1 and F45 about 1/2" in the front and rear safely. Adjusting both front and rear bolts to their maximum will give you approximately 3/4" in the front and 1" in the rear (this will vary from car to car). While this does not sound like much, it makes the car look and feel a lot lower. My air dam was 2" off the road after the procedure. I am considering either cutting off the lower one inch of the air dam or raising the car about 1/2" so it won't scrape so much.
Before starting, measure the height of the front and rear wheel wells from the ground through the center of the wheel. It should be somewhere around 27-3/8" in front and 28-5/8" in the rear. Remember these numbers. Some suggest that the rear lowering can be done without raising the car - well, I'm too big to get under my car unless it is raised - so, the procedure is outlined below.
Lowering the Rear:
1. With the car on a level surface and the front wheels blocked, jack the rear of the car and support with two jack stands. It is actually easier to do the lowering if the wheels are removed, especially when it is time to measure the bolt height to ensure that the car will be level (you might want to remove the wheels now also).
2. At each end of the transverse leaf spring, locate a long bolt, with the threaded up pointed upward. You should see about 1 inch to 1-1/2 inches of exposed thread on the bolt (this is on the top of the leaf spring). Using an 18 mm socket and ratchet on the bottom of the bolt, tighten (clockwise) until there are only two or three threads exposed on the top part of the bolt. Use an 18 mm wrench to hold the top nut in place as you turn the bolt.
Rear Before
Rear After
3. Leave two or three threads exposed before it contacts the nut. The nut has a small "C" clip on it so it won't back out. It takes about 5 minutes per side to lower the rear about 1". It is a good idea to measure the exposed threads on each side to ensure they are the same.
Lowering the Front: The front, the car definitely has to be raised.
1. With the car safely raised and on jack stands and the front wheels removed, find the end of the transverse leaf spring next to the shock. Locate the 10 mm end of the ride height adjustment bolt. It has a retainer clip.
Front Before
2. With some suspensions (like the F45) it is easier to get at the top of the bolt if the lower shock absorber bolts (13 mm) are removed so the shock can be moved out of the way.
3. Using a 10 mm socket on the top of the stud, turn counter-clockwise (like unscrewing - even though you are not, you are just on the opposite end of the bolt so it looks that way) until tight.
4. Back off the bolt about a 1/8 to ¼ turn to ensure it does not freeze in place in case you want to raise the car at some future date.
Front After
5. Re attach the lower shock mounts, put the wheels back on and remove the jack stands.
At this point, the car may not appear to have been lowered very much. Take it for a drive around the block and allow things to settle (and it *will* settle quite a bit). Then, with the car parked in the same spot, re-measure the height of the wheel wells as above. The difference between the two measurements is the amount the car was lowered. Make sure that both sides of the front and rear measure the same. Adjust as necessary.
Drive the car for a week or so then have the alignment checked by a good shop. Align as necessary. If the car feels like the suspension is riding on the rebound bumpers, you may be too low - The best fix is to raise the car by about ¼" and test driving again.
How will lowering affect the car?http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...21&forum_id=49
The following users liked this post:
DECON BLUE (08-15-2020)
01-01-2013, 10:18 PM
#74
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Aug 2007
Location: Rockingham North Carolina
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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0 Posts
Hi, I'm looking for goodyear F1 supercar tire 295/35/zr18. I just purchase a 2003 zo6 corvette, when I got home with it I had a screw in the side wall of 1 tire Tks.
Last edited by catdog28379; 01-01-2013 at 10:21 PM.
04-06-2013, 08:15 PM
#75
Le Mans Master
05-10-2013, 05:09 PM
#76
I must say I appreciate the good information found in this thread. My clutch is starting to show signs of dirty fluid! Already contacted my go to vette tech to schedule an appt.
I also need to find a good source for replacement interior parts. HUD frame - Seat trim for drivers side which hold the electric seat switch. Door handle "inserts" that go under the door handle and fit into the door panel. Visor Clips ... small simple stuff.
Thanks !!
I also need to find a good source for replacement interior parts. HUD frame - Seat trim for drivers side which hold the electric seat switch. Door handle "inserts" that go under the door handle and fit into the door panel. Visor Clips ... small simple stuff.
Thanks !!
04-18-2015, 06:58 PM
#77
Instructor
LTC Z06 - Thanks for the tremendous investment in time and energy you put into creating and maintaining this very helpful thread ... very much appreciated ...
04-24-2015, 06:57 AM
#78
Get Some!
Thread Starter
01-18-2016, 04:10 PM
#80
Typical Water and Oil Temps??
All:
When warmed and steady cruising about 60-75 mph, my water temperature is about 184-187 degF, and the oil temp is about 192 degF.
This has been observed with OAT about 45 degF and below. The water temp seems low to me - I expected it to be more like 205 to 210 degF, regardless of OAT unless climbing a hill or mountain on a hot day.
When climbing a long uphill grade, I saw the water temp climb to about 190 max.
I don't see any of this info in the Owners Manual.
Anyone have the correct numbers I should see?
Thanks,
Mike
When warmed and steady cruising about 60-75 mph, my water temperature is about 184-187 degF, and the oil temp is about 192 degF.
This has been observed with OAT about 45 degF and below. The water temp seems low to me - I expected it to be more like 205 to 210 degF, regardless of OAT unless climbing a hill or mountain on a hot day.
When climbing a long uphill grade, I saw the water temp climb to about 190 max.
I don't see any of this info in the Owners Manual.
Anyone have the correct numbers I should see?
Thanks,
Mike