dentman

does any one have any experince on removing the trans on a 02 zo6 6 speed.i am capable just never done one of these and seeing what tricks there might be.any help would be great., thanks

bullitt4110

Its a pain to do on the ground if you are, but you are going to need to take the shifter out and then from under the car you need to take the exhaust and tunnel plate off and undo all of the electrical off of the diff and trans, pull the axles, undo the brake calipers, then support the rear and torque tube and undo the 4 nuts holding on the rear subframe and it will drop down, now I dont remember if its easier to just pull the entire torque tube or if you can undo the trans from there, either way that would be the next step and then slid it out from under the car. Thats is a very general over view and there is most likely some little stuff that I am forgetting snice I havent done one in a few months.

KCvetteowner

If you do an advanced search there are a few documented how to's. Don't separate the ball joints, just remove the four bolts in the upper control arms and one end of the shocks. Hardest part is lowering gently and checking your brake lines, electrical lines and that the back of the block isn't crushing the wiring harness against the firewall. Both times I had the intake off the motor, can't remember if you have to remove it. Sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't bad.

Quick Silver Z

This should get you started, good luck.

http://www.cajundude.com/differential.htm

Quick Silver Z

One more time!

http://redshift.homestead.com/drivetrain1.html

JLayer

We found it easier to pull the trans/rear/torqtube on the ground then on a lift. If you take this approach, make sure you have a couple jacks which makes it a lot easier to manuver once you lower the rearend. I'd recommend sliding the rear out with the torq tube attached also.

megac5

do u got one for a 1998 c5 A4 tranny???

Navyvette04

Great link, thanks for posting

sublime1996525

This is how I did mine. It wasn't that bad. Had everything out in a day without doing it before. I was able to have instructions though thanks to the hobby shop on base. That helped out a lot.

If you want I can try to find the instructions that I used and scan/send them to you? Let me know.

Quick Silver Z

Patches does!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...post1561006519


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tallation.html

jclarksnakes

Those links Quick Silver Z posted are great. No plans to pull the drive train anytime soon but I spent 10 minutes reading and looking at the good "how tos". This forum is great.

dentman

thanks guys i am sure these will help alot

The Evil Genius

For your first time, budget two full days. You'll get hung up on random wires and cables, and tracking down everything will eat up time. I've done the full out/in three times, and I can do it myself in about 10 hours with an extra hand for the removal and the install. You do have help, don't you?

Cordes Performance Racing

everything has been mentioned except if done on a lift make sure you put a swivel jack under the front cradle. also have some w/ a pry bar guide the shifter box past the brake lines. it's not that difficult really but two swivel jacks and a tranny jack if done on a lift make it so much easier. took me and my friend roughly 5 hours start to finish but we know what to expect

rbartick

You have to disconnect the clutch hydraulic lines when you pull the torque tube. I've yet to do this job on my car, but I'm guessing that you may need to bleed the system after you put it all back together.

Are you guys sticking the torque tube back in on it's own and putting the trans on after the tube is in the clutch, or are you putting the entire unit back in already assembled. I'd image it would be hard to spline the torque tube back in with the heavy trans and diff hanging off the back of the torque tube.

dentman

i do have a lift. will it be easier on the ground or in the air?

Cordes Performance Racing

in the air is much easier if but you must have two swivel jacks and a tranny jack. to respond to the last poster we keep the rear end/tranny/torque tube all together. here is my best way to describe how to do this.
1.remove shifter
2. remove brake calipers (put two lug nuts on the rotors so they cant fall off.
3. remove e-brake cable
4. unbolt shock from a-arm
5. pop out axles from diff
6. remove x-pipe/cat-back/sway bar
7. undo two bolts that hold rear end to cradle.
8. undo any plugs/connectors
9. take out tunnel plate
10.remove clutch inspection cover
at this point i would put one swivel jack under the front cradle and one under the transmission.
11. put tranny jack under rear cradle and remove the 4 nuts holding it up. w/ you and someone else carefully lower it down and than lift if off the tranny jack.
12. re-raise tranny jack to go under the diff/tranny. at this point remove swivel jack from under tranny.
13. check for any missed plugs on rear/tranny (there is one directly on top that is hard to get.
14. lower tranny jack down some to pitch everything at an angle. there is a picture on the torque tube to use as a reference as to how far down you can pitch it.
15. undo all torque tube bolts that bolt to bellhousing.
16. this part takes to people really. one person operates the tranny jack to help pull it back and lower it while the other person uses a pry bar to guide the shifter box past the brake lines.
17. as you lower it slide the harness out from under the tab on top of the torque tube right near where it mates to the tranny.
keep working at it till it comes out. another thing to is you do not have to remove the bellhousing to change the clutch. if you are doing an ls7 you need to grind down the dowel pins and if so if your new clutch whatever brand you go w/ has them. bolt it up use a flywheel tool and spin it to get to each set of bolts. than repeat the steps to get it back in. hope this helps

KBlanke

Once you do it a few times, it isn't that bad. We have gotten to the point on our race car that we can do a tranny swap in less than two hours.

Nward

i am looking at buying a 1998 with an auto tranny, the guy's buddy sold him the car and he replaced the tranny. now the car barely rolls, he blames this on not priming the torque converter when he put the new tranny in. is that the only thing that is wrong with that area of the car? would anything else need to be done to resolve this.

please help me out soon

TurboTnZ06

I did it by myself with hand tools in my garage. Took the cradle out, then the diff/tranny/tt all in one piece.

I used one tranny jack, one big floor jack, and one little floor jack. Two tranny jacks would make it easier. Took a few hours to get it out, then another few hours to get it back in.