ADub

So my drivers side molding is in critical need of replacement. I ordered both sides for good measure. Turns out both are on national backorder with no ETA.

Anyone successfully repair a cracked molding? Some way to get by in the short term until these are available again?

mschamberger

Can you post a pic, I'm not sure what molding you're talking about?

ADub

Its the piece that starts at the cowl and runs all the way to the upper rear corner of the door. Look inboard of the mirror, its the large black plastic trim piece you see. Extremely detailed photo:

hpfiend

Very common problem- My passenger side is broken, I have the parts but just haven't gotten to it- here is a text file I have cut and pasted from various threads as I researched it.

HTH,
Andrew

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For anybody with the a-pillar leak on a 1999-2004 hardtop or Z06 listen to this. New part numbers have been released for the exterior left and right side plastic a-pillar molding. I suspect this is due to faulty design in the moldings and the reason why so many people have leak problems. However, I am waitng for these moldings and can get no definite answer to when production will be complete.

The old part numbers: 10422996, 10422997
Have been replaced by: 10331562, 10331563

I had discovered this because my 2001 Z06 with 8000 miles on it leaks in the rain really bad. No damage was caused because I was lucky in catching the problem quickly. I have taken apart one side of the molding and discovered how poor the waterproofing job was done in this area of the vehicle.

What is unsatisfactory is the way the moldings are adhered to the a-pillar. There is almost no sealant to prevent water from finding a way to seep in between the fiberglass body and the plastic molding. What then happens is it does two things:

1.) water runs down the a pillar and pools in the interior a-pilar molding until it then runs down into the kick panel area then to the carpet and/or runs into the lower part of the dash board and drips down on your feet.

2.) water runs backward, forward, or both into the headliner and soaks it. Or it runs down the interior sail panel and you might see water on top of your seatbelt mechanism cover.

You may get both of these leaks, one of these leaks, or none of these leaks depending on where there is a gap in the length of adhesion of the molding to the body. If you have not experienced a leak, you are lucky, but only a small barrier of crappy sealant job separates you from getting soaked. The design works don't get me wrong, but the process on the assembly line leaves too many possible variances open including human error when applying the sealant.

I will post full picture documentation of this. The mere fact that GM released new part numbers and scrapped old production parts to keep them from being sold means they know now, or knew of a problem in the design.

Here is the link the an older thread of a member who had the same problem but could not find out the problem. This is worth reading for anyone with a C5 hardtop:


saw him carefully take the rubber gasket from the chanel around the window opening and take off the metal channel described above...he proceeded to open a box of stuff he got from the parts department and I asked him what it was and he called it "dumb dumb rope"...it was a long pack of cord like strips of dumb dumb stuck together and he carefully seperated the lengths of the stuck together strips of dumb dumb rope and laid them out on a piece of cardboard...then he took the metal channel off and carefully placed a strip across the back(near but not at the top portion) of the channel where the chanel is against the door frame. he then gently pressed it on the channel to make it stay and then he carefully put the metal chanel back into the door frame and firmly pressed it against the frame and the stuff squeezed to near the top of the channel where it meets the frame and then put the screws back in and then carefully pressed the rubber gasket back into the chanel...At that time I asked him the purpose of doing him what he just did and he told me that what he just did would solve water from seeping in behind the gasket and behind the chanel and migrating everywhere. I asked him why he put the strip of dumb dumb near the top back of the chanel and he said when he pushed it back into place that he wanted the dumb dumb to be squeezed close to the top of the chanel to prevent any water from entering from that point down. He said he had stopped many leaking problems by doing what I just watched him do and that he was the only mechanic that he knew of anywhere that used the "dumb dumb rope" like he just did...he also said that he told GM several times of his procedure to stop water leaking from around the door and they just ignored him...(he also said another area of leaking was around the window where the glass presses against the rubber and that the window can be adjusted to make a better seal against the rubber gasket).
He also did the "dumb dumb rope "procedure on the frame against the windshield (windshield pillar)
Anyway I hope this may help you...it seemed pretty easy to do if you take your time and do it precisely like he did it. It can not hurt to try this procedure and may hopefully help...its a disgusting problem and I hope it helps...

BTW...my mechanic said not to use rtv or silicone because if you go to try to remove the channel in the future that you will have a terrible mess

Dumb Dumb Rope?
it is a putty that come in strips.we use 3m brand at work to seal evap cases back on firewall after evap.or heater core replacment.

Putting my new trim on for the targa conversion I took great care to seal everything so my fingers are crossed. My steps:

1. Use rubber cement type auto adhesive to mount A-pillar molding
2. Install metal run channes with "dum dum" which is automotive sealant
3. Install all screws with dum dum to seal them like OEM
4. Install weather stripping
5. Run bead of winshield sealant between run channel and A-pillar.

My glass guy said typically water is getting behind the weather stripping and comming down the run channel.

Ok, I pulled everything apart today to start fixing it. I had to pull the weatherstripping, the metal piece that holds it and the window reveal molding. I ended up breaking the reveal molding as I was cleaning the glue, and sealing foam strip off it. I plan on trying to order a new one come Monday. I took some pictures as I have been pulling everything apart. I also removed the plastic triangle from the bottom front corner of the A-pillar. I purchased some 3M Strip-caulking to help seal everything back up. I used it to reattach the triangle sealing around and behind it. As soon as I get the reveal molding in I will continue with my progress report.

ADub

Where can I source the magic rope?

speedyhawk101

Uhhhh......uhhhhh he said magic rope.....

speedyhawk101

Thanks for the info. Mine is broken as well. I'm not sure if it leaks, since it stays inside and usually isn't driven in nasty weather, but I'm sure this info will help.

ADub

Its called 3M Strip Calk. P/N 8578. Working so far

atvsteve

found one at http://www.artscorvetteparts.com/ and many others, look under salvage yards corvette c5
purchased mine at http://www.corvettesalvage.com/, so they are out there for about 100us including the metal retaining clip for the window molding, only because it's a bitch to separate without braking the molding but good for shipping (solid).
good luck

ADub

The ones on my car are just as good as any salvage part. Have you looked at the "seal" on the back side? No wonder they leak....

I'll stick to repairing mine until new ones are available

TEXHAWK0

I also like this Strip Caulk and have used it for years.
I have even used it along body ridges under weatherstripping (like around the trunk area) to seal the weatherstrip and raise it a little so that it seals better.
I fixed an A pillar leak by putting some of this non-hardening caulk around the clips that push into the pillar. I had a leak though one of the holes where the water would run behind the plastic trim and spill over into the driver foot well.
Good Stuff!

You should be able to buy a box of it anywhere they sell automotive paint and body repair supplies.

Bill Curlee

Anyone have pictures of this repair? I might have to do this over the winter.

bobafett012

I am the original owner of my 04 ZO6 and my driver side moulding is cracked, and also the seal/gasket(or double sided tape whatever) that goes up against the front windshield is coming out, so i think i will just replace both of mine. Anyone know for sure if that tape comes on the moulding?

the dealerships(at least the ones near me) are selling the mouldings for $193.46, and $193.92. The cheapest i have found them is at www.gmpartsdirect.com, for $118 a piece, not sure where others have found them for $70 but if you could link it that'd be great!

Oleman

I just had the drivers side of my 01 done and and doing the passenger side this week. The labor is as much as the parts. The guy that did mine this is all he does and he as well as the service manager told me that this one of the most difficult cars to do that he has ever done. He did a good job looks as good or better than from factory. I bought the car with 3K on it in 01.

Bill Curlee

Contact Gene Culley or Patrick www.gmpartshouse.com. They have excellent prices on all GM Parts


BC

Bill Curlee

If you do the job your self,,, please take picture of the process. The process of this job comes up frequently and no one has ever taken pictures.

Thank

Bill