[Z06] '03 z06 rear main seal
12-31-2009, 10:33 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
'03 z06 rear main seal
So my DIY skills are somewhat limited to routine maintenance and consumables ... what do you think a fair price is and/or number of labor hours for a shop to replace a rear main seal?
After I get some responses I will let you know what the dealer quoted me ...
After I get some responses I will let you know what the dealer quoted me ...
12-31-2009, 11:26 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
10hrs @ what ever your local going rate is. You have to pull the trans and clutch to get to it. How many miles on the car/clutch? Might consider replacing that while you are there as well as the slave and do a remote bleeder.
just saying
So I would venture to guess W/O new clutch: 2000$$ With new clutch,slave,pilot bearing 3000$$$
just saying
So I would venture to guess W/O new clutch: 2000$$ With new clutch,slave,pilot bearing 3000$$$
12-31-2009, 12:37 PM
#3
Banned Scam/Spammer
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
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I got a new clutch and had a shop do the work... also paid $600 to freshen the gearbox since it was out.
Paid wholesale cost since I knew the shop owner. $3k for all
12-31-2009, 07:43 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
53k miles. He said 2800 assuming a clutch since he thinks there's oil all over it. I have not noticed a problem with drivability though. He's speculating that its the rear mainbecause there's oil coming down the rear of the motor and it seems mixed with something fibrous he thinks is clutch material. I think most of the cost is labor to just figure out what exactly is leaking. I started it the other day after several cold weeks in the garage and there is oil all over evrything now. Can't drive it too far.
Happy new year BTW !!
Happy new year BTW !!
12-31-2009, 07:58 PM
#6
Race Director
Pro Mechanic
It most likely is the rear main seal, but take a good look at the oil pressure sender. It’s on the top rear of the engine; I’ve seen them leak down the rear of the engine block before.
01-01-2010, 11:02 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
you can see it with a small mirror. You can get to it without removal of the intake as many have done, but the intake is easy to take off. Its on the back side of the motor just behind the intake, drivers side.
Heres the cut method to get at it:
Heres the cut method to get at it:
CAUTION: THREAD HIJACK!! ok, not really. I decided to do the cut-a-way method and took some pics. Not too difficult to say the least.
Tools needed: 14mm socket, 1-1/16 deep socket, Needlenose pliers, cutting disk and a sawblade (use by hand. plastic cuts real easy)
REMOVE WIPERS (14mm socket, pull washer hose off too)
REMOVE TRAY (5 plastic rivets. Pull center up, then pull rivet out) Lay upside down ontop of motor.
This is the underneath tray
EDIT: Although I didn't use it, and it's not in the picture, Mike99FRC suggests sliding a plate UNDER the plastic to be cut to protect the hoses under the cowling. He used an old license plate. Good tip Mike.
I cut on an angle so that I can put the plastic piece back on.. sort of like a carving a pumpkin top. Don't let your cutting wheel go too deep. There is a hose right under the cover. Look at the next pic. Cut a decent size hole. It will be covered up anyway. If it's small, you'll just fight yourself for no reason.
There's the little devil right there. (sorry for the bad pic, but you get the idea)
Using the 1-1/16 deep socket and a long extension, r/r the sensor. This is the new one installed. I used about 2 turns of tape also and didn't over tighten. Just snug it up and when complete, start the car and make sure it doesn't leak.
I used some duct tape and replaced the plastic piece. Looks ugly but you can't see it when the top plastic is put back.
Tools needed: 14mm socket, 1-1/16 deep socket, Needlenose pliers, cutting disk and a sawblade (use by hand. plastic cuts real easy)
REMOVE WIPERS (14mm socket, pull washer hose off too)
REMOVE TRAY (5 plastic rivets. Pull center up, then pull rivet out) Lay upside down ontop of motor.
This is the underneath tray
EDIT: Although I didn't use it, and it's not in the picture, Mike99FRC suggests sliding a plate UNDER the plastic to be cut to protect the hoses under the cowling. He used an old license plate. Good tip Mike.
I cut on an angle so that I can put the plastic piece back on.. sort of like a carving a pumpkin top. Don't let your cutting wheel go too deep. There is a hose right under the cover. Look at the next pic. Cut a decent size hole. It will be covered up anyway. If it's small, you'll just fight yourself for no reason.
There's the little devil right there. (sorry for the bad pic, but you get the idea)
Using the 1-1/16 deep socket and a long extension, r/r the sensor. This is the new one installed. I used about 2 turns of tape also and didn't over tighten. Just snug it up and when complete, start the car and make sure it doesn't leak.
I used some duct tape and replaced the plastic piece. Looks ugly but you can't see it when the top plastic is put back.
Last edited by Slow Z06; 01-01-2010 at 11:10 AM.
01-02-2010, 06:23 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2007
Location: Chester County PA
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St. Jude Donor '08
I had a small pin hole in my lower oil pan, that was leaking a good amount of oil.
You could see oozing out when the engine was hot.
Get your car on a lift, clean up the oil, and maybe you will be able to see where the oil is actually coming from.
It might not be the rear seal.
You could see oozing out when the engine was hot.
Get your car on a lift, clean up the oil, and maybe you will be able to see where the oil is actually coming from.
It might not be the rear seal.
01-02-2010, 10:16 AM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
had it to this dealer a while ago he put dye in the oil to see where it was coming from. brought it back and he said upper oil pan gasket. I didnt realize what a job that was .. did not have the money at the time so didnt have him do it. finally got that $700 together and brought it back ... he put it on the lift and saw a lot of oil on the rear of the motor with fibers in it that he figures are clutch material .. hence the theory that it's the rear main and it's getting on the clutch. I am not having clutch problems to speak of. of course, I have not driven it much since the first discussion about an oil leak.
bottom line .. I will probably be paying a lot for exploratory labor and a little for whatever little freakin' part is leaking.
just trying to decide where to have it done. I am walking distance to a reputable local dealer who used to race successfully in T1, I am a few miles from Joe A. @ Phoenix , and I have a buddy that works out of his own shop in his garage building and maintaining AC Cobra relicas including the one I sold to buy a vette
.... but not sure of his late model Corvette prowess. decisions, decisions...
bottom line .. I will probably be paying a lot for exploratory labor and a little for whatever little freakin' part is leaking.
just trying to decide where to have it done. I am walking distance to a reputable local dealer who used to race successfully in T1, I am a few miles from Joe A. @ Phoenix , and I have a buddy that works out of his own shop in his garage building and maintaining AC Cobra relicas including the one I sold to buy a vette
.... but not sure of his late model Corvette prowess. decisions, decisions...
01-03-2010, 03:37 AM
#11
Le Mans Master
There is a lower cover on the bellhousing that can be removed, although you can not directly see the rear main you can see if its coming from there. and that will let you see the clutch aswell and see if its getting on there. Might want to start with that.
01-06-2010, 10:01 PM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
it's not the oil pressure sender. managed to see it with a mirror. Car is on jack stands till I get my wheels back from powdercoating ... I will update this thread when I get it in a shop in a week or two if they find anything interesting.
another thought ... if I am thinking of adding power, which I am, I guess now would be a good time to upgrade the clutch. I know there are a thousand threads on pros and cons of aftermarket clutches so I wont turn this into a help me select a clutch thread.
thx for the help so far.
another thought ... if I am thinking of adding power, which I am, I guess now would be a good time to upgrade the clutch. I know there are a thousand threads on pros and cons of aftermarket clutches so I wont turn this into a help me select a clutch thread.
thx for the help so far.
01-07-2010, 02:09 PM
#13
Intermediate
I had the same problem in the T/A that I had before my vette. I replaced the Rear Main twice. It turned out to be that the rear cover was worped and it needed to be replaced. Just thought that I would throw that out. Best to check it as well while they are in there!
01-07-2010, 07:17 PM
#14
Race Director
it's not the oil pressure sender. managed to see it with a mirror. Car is on jack stands till I get my wheels back from powdercoating ... I will update this thread when I get it in a shop in a week or two if they find anything interesting.
another thought ... if I am thinking of adding power, which I am, I guess now would be a good time to upgrade the clutch. I know there are a thousand threads on pros and cons of aftermarket clutches so I wont turn this into a help me select a clutch thread.
thx for the help so far.
another thought ... if I am thinking of adding power, which I am, I guess now would be a good time to upgrade the clutch. I know there are a thousand threads on pros and cons of aftermarket clutches so I wont turn this into a help me select a clutch thread.
thx for the help so far.
Dropping the drive train ain't to bad and it's winter here anyway so there is no rush to get it done.
Lots of guys here on the forum that could help ya out.
02-20-2010, 09:26 PM
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
So, had it done at County Corvette in West Chester - forum vendor. Got it back today. Went ahead and got an ACT twin disc since I will likely add power later. Turns out it probably had a blower on it in a prior life because there's a oil fitting drilled into the pan for a return line. So my speculation is that the blower install was not done correctly, over pressurized the crank case and caused the leak. Stock clutch and flywheel were also toast. Won't lay into it till the clutch is broken in but feels really smooth just on the drive home. Nice job, good communication, fair price from County Corvette.
02-21-2010, 12:05 PM
#17
Race Director
So, had it done at County Corvette in West Chester - forum vendor. Got it back today. Went ahead and got an ACT twin disc since I will likely add power later. Turns out it probably had a blower on it in a prior life because there's a oil fitting drilled into the pan for a return line. So my speculation is that the blower install was not done correctly, over pressurized the crank case and caused the leak. Stock clutch and flywheel were also toast. Won't lay into it till the clutch is broken in but feels really smooth just on the drive home. Nice job, good communication, fair price from County Corvette.
