[Z06] Dreaded yellow springs..
#61
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,491
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
Since I was in the danger zone (April 2002 built) I replaced mine for peace of mind.
#62
Burning Brakes
You seem to be out of the danger zone but it's a crap shoot at this point. It seems there was a bad batch of springs so who knows where they landed. You could go 200k without a problem or it could happen next week.
Since I was in the danger zone (April 2002 built) I replaced mine for peace of mind.
Since I was in the danger zone (April 2002 built) I replaced mine for peace of mind.
#63
Race Director
You seem to be out of the danger zone but it's a crap shoot at this point. It seems there was a bad batch of springs so who knows where they landed. You could go 200k without a problem or it could happen next week.
Since I was in the danger zone (April 2002 built) I replaced mine for peace of mind.
Since I was in the danger zone (April 2002 built) I replaced mine for peace of mind.
the earliest 02 springs i remember seeing were bare metal with orange dots
the yellow ones that came later were the suspect springs
#64
You seem to be out of the danger zone but it's a crap shoot at this point. It seems there was a bad batch of springs so who knows where they landed. You could go 200k without a problem or it could happen next week.
Since I was in the danger zone (April 2002 built) I replaced mine for peace of mind.
Since I was in the danger zone (April 2002 built) I replaced mine for peace of mind.
On a separate note, the 2% failure rate that has been mentioned, if accurate, is an abysmal production failure rate.
#65
Race Director
I absolutely concur. It might never happen with the yellow springs or break at the next start up. It's doesn't have to be a motor that's running at upper RPMs either. It's happened at cruise, idle, accelerating etc. Virtually all regimes.
On a separate note, the 2% failure rate that has been mentioned, if accurate, is an abysmal production failure rate.
On a separate note, the 2% failure rate that has been mentioned, if accurate, is an abysmal production failure rate.
BUT
it's high enough most of us don't want to risk it
LS7 is the same way, not every engine had out of spec guides, but, enough did that it was a problem
GM never recalled either, just a money, math, warranty game
#66
Instructor
Springs - 12499224
Intake valve seals - 12482063
Exhaust valve seals - 12482062
Valve cover gaskets - 12637683
So this is what I need to order?
My car has a ProCharger on it, only running 5 lbs. 02 z06. 55k miles
Good idea to put some COMP pushrods in there too while they are in there? I also heard someone say to put some dual valve springs instead of the ls2/ls3 ones? New keepers too? Anything else besides spark plugs and wires while I am in there? I don't plan on going over 500whp. I want to keep it reliable as possible.
I have only had my Z06 for about 2 weeks now and I am afraid to get on it at all. I do have the yellow springs and sit in the high risk group. :/
thanks guys for any help.
Intake valve seals - 12482063
Exhaust valve seals - 12482062
Valve cover gaskets - 12637683
So this is what I need to order?
My car has a ProCharger on it, only running 5 lbs. 02 z06. 55k miles
Good idea to put some COMP pushrods in there too while they are in there? I also heard someone say to put some dual valve springs instead of the ls2/ls3 ones? New keepers too? Anything else besides spark plugs and wires while I am in there? I don't plan on going over 500whp. I want to keep it reliable as possible.
I have only had my Z06 for about 2 weeks now and I am afraid to get on it at all. I do have the yellow springs and sit in the high risk group. :/
thanks guys for any help.
#67
Race Director
factory cam and factory redline yes
if you change the cam then no, this won't work
hardened or stronger pushrods are needed with stiffer springs, if you use oem springs use oem pushrods, your existing ones are fine
if you change the cam then no, this won't work
hardened or stronger pushrods are needed with stiffer springs, if you use oem springs use oem pushrods, your existing ones are fine
#68
Instructor
I wish it weren't true
Those who say it doesn't/wouldn't/couldn't happen--It did to me. #1 cylinder, dropped the valve, hole in piston. Happened while pulling out from a stop light at low speed. About 79k miles on the engine.
#69
Race Director
was your block okay? if so at least it didn't wreck the engine and you could just pop in another stock piston
#70
Instructor
It just so happened to occur about a month before I was headed to Afghanistan. As luck would have it, a guy in my club got me a new crate LS6 (2004 version) for cost while I was away so i dropped that in. I have the original and will someday tear it down. I can hook a fingernail on the cylinder wall, so my hope is I can maybe hone it since my understanding is you can't bore out more than .001.
BTW- there was metal from the piston in the intake, so who knows where all the metal got too......
BTW- there was metal from the piston in the intake, so who knows where all the metal got too......
Last edited by Kevin 64; 10-17-2014 at 01:11 PM. Reason: More to add.
#71
Race Director
It just so happened to occur about a month before I was headed to Afghanistan. As luck would have it, a guy in my club got me a new crate LS6 (2004 version) for cost while I was away so i dropped that in. I have the original and will someday tear it down. I can hook a fingernail on the cylinder wall, so my hope is I can maybe hone it since my understanding is you can't bore out more than .001.
BTW- there was metal from the piston in the intake, so who knows where all the metal got too......
BTW- there was metal from the piston in the intake, so who knows where all the metal got too......
if you can hook a nail you might be able to get by with a rehone which would allow a stock piston. a ball hone on a drill can be done if you're careful and stuff the bottom full of rags so crap doesn't get in the bearings and crank. if you re hone that cylinder you need a new ringset. i would try the ball hone method on a drill before you pull it all apart, may be able to fix it without total disassembly
if that scratch doesn't go perfectly smooth to the eye and finger, you're going to have to either to an aggressive hone at the shop which increases PWC and shortens ring life, also can rattle a bit since the piston will be a bit loose
or run one oversize piston and bore that hole .010 over
at that point you may just buy a set of .010 pistons and rebore the block for new pistons and rings
#72
Burning Brakes
My 03 was built after the most common vin's with issues but I just this past Saturday put in the PAC's and it was right at 3 hours from start to finish and did all the seals and VC gaskets. Used the Crane dual valve spring tool. I also found a great deal on the SLP 1.85 rockers so installed those also.