Torque Obsessed

You really have to know what you want before you do it. I'm at 412whp (Dynojet) with Vararam, MTI V3 cam and LG Street headers with hi-flow cats. The cam shakes the car like a cement mixer (totally awesome) and the sound with the headers into the stock Ti catback is perfect. Loud, but not crazy, and it screams at high revs. It turns heads everywhere.

But... The above cost me as much as a blower, for 100hp less. I haven't even done heads yet. Now I'm debating with myself about whether it's worth dropping thousands more on a FAST intake & heads to get a couple dozen more hp.

I went N/A because I was planning to track the car and didn't want to blow the motor. But I don't track it, so I coulda gone with a SC and had a ballistic missile instead of a fast Corvette. It is fast - much faster than stock - but not as crazy as it could have been. And anywhere I go from here is a tough choice in terms of $/hp.

neutron82

I made 419rwhp with a medium cam and I'm sure yours is comparable... even at that level my car didn't feel that fast to me... just throw a blower on top of what you have with some meth and 10psi you would probably be ~675rwhp, much more than 100rwhp... the mods you have so far are not wasted they will just make it that much faster when you throw some boost at it... this is assuming that's what you want, everyone has different tastes

bikeriderga

If you supercharge, you can be at 500-550 wth 5-6 lbs boost, which would not put much strain on your stock internals. Total cost will be about 6500-7500 installed and tuned.

Hard to get most power for $$$ than going blown. Why all of the manufactuers are going forced induction.

With a SC, your will drive mostly stock until about 3.5K RPMs with a centrifical blower. If you want power from off idle to redline, need to go with a modified roots or twin screw type SC.

Most popular are the Centrifical types. Poplar kits for our C5s are offered from A&A and ECS. Both are using the Vortech SC (ECS used to use Procharger, but I think the new ones are Vortech as well). They are really polular because under 3K RPMs drive totally like stock and maintain fuel economy under the SC RPM boost curve. Does not give you boost off the line though. Will eat about 15-20% of your torque under 3K. At 3K and above you had better point it where you want to go!


A modified Roots type Kit (like used on the ZR1 and upcoming C7 Z06) use an Eaton SC. These provide power off idle. They fall off a little more rapidly at higher RPMs though.


Whipple make a twin screw, but no kits available for our cars. There may be someone who offers custom installations for Whipple, don't know.

DANZGLASS

boost! All the boost. I had a high end head cam, 403 stroker, turbo stock 5.3, now built larger turbo 5.3. Boost it now NA does not cut it for long. Unless you road race. Boost will be better for drivability and more power.

Put it this way made 530whp on my stroker got 13mpg ave and was not stock like drivability in the least. Now twice that hp and i get ave over 22-23mpg ave, 35mpg on the highway. Drives like stock till i get into it.

If i did it all over again id do a blower kit with a F1A,YSI or novi 2000 strait away. Keep the boost low and build into the blower over time with better parts.

neutron82

ecs uses paxton (same company as vortec now) but just to clarify, both ecs and a&a make brackets for procharger head units as well as their regular kits you just have to ask... if you go with ecs make sure to get their bigger intercooler... I went with a d1sc and am already planning to go for a bigger blower in the future, once you get a taste of it you will be addicted!

tomseal6

Would putting in a TR 6060 make it feel more like a LS7 with all the mods?

2003Evo

What would make a c5z like an LS7 is by dropping an actuall 427 engine on your car. Do you actually want an LS7 engine or be able to beat it?

dbs1vette

Dropping a 427 on your car might be messy. But putting a LS3 based 416 IN it would add a whole lot of giddy up.

Heading to the TX mile and with 520 rwhp I'm averaging almost 28mpg's at 83mph. But I'd already built the engine prior to acquiring the Z. Sold the LS6 for $4500 and that helped to offset the costs to install and add LT's for the vette.

ggroller

Toque's set up is what you're after. Don't try to re-invent the wheel. Just copy what He did.

Having said that, I agree with everyone else that's saying supercharger. The car will drive like stock until you put you're foot in it. Once you do, hold on. Lot' s of power.

Toque

Thanks guys...

I made 471 / 441 to the rear wheels.
I focused on a build for the most torque possible.
I could go with a bigger cam for more HP, but I hear I will loose torque at the low RPM range.

See this link to see my horsepower progression over the years as I added more and more go fast parts.

http://www.toquez06.com/dyno.html

Vararam B2 w/Green Filter
Airbridge & Smooth Tube
Ported LS2 Throttle Body
Ported FAST 92mm Intake Manifold painted flat black
AFR 205 Heads Milled to 59cc for >11.1 comp ratio
Comp 921 Dual Valve Springs
160 Degree Thermostat
LG's G5X1-E Cam on 114 LSA
SVO 30# Fuel Injectors
LG Pro Long Tube Headers With Cats
GHL Bullet Cat Back Exhaust

Tuned and running a "safe" Air Fuel Ratio of 12.6 to 1.

Its a very easy to drive cam. Its not too big, but not too small



Hope this helps
Toque

RC000E

I wanted to go N/A...even had a built LS7 at a time...for various reasons I went with the AA kit and the car is a beast, that's all that can be said. The power is really hard to put to use on the street in any way in all honesty. I don't regret it though.

If anything, I may build a 6.0-6.2 in the future all N/A...but...if you're sticking with the LS6..supercharge it...no question. Drivability/reliability is like bone stock until the pedal goes down, then it's a terror.

CorvetteRanch

Wow! 471/441 at the wheels. That's pretty good for stock displacement and bottom end. Using similar mods except with AFR mongoose heads and ARH 1.75" got me 450/400 on a mustang dyno. The best mod was the 25lb clutch and billet steel flywheel with a rev limit of 7000rpm on stock bottom end.

REDZED2

I have known Toque's numbers for a dog's age and unless those AFR 205's were hand massaged.... well that's LG's dyno. There's zero way that those numbers are SAE corrected. Not without every bolt on and the heads mamofied. I know this was a long time ago but I have seen a million AFR 205 combos almost identical to his and yeah they all sat in the 440-450 range rwhp from all different shops dynos..I know the specs on the LG X1E cam of Toques, ( XER) lobes... its just not possible, you can believe what you wish. Doesn't mean toques car isn't fast, cause I'm sure it is... and Toque you can't be mad at me cause I am CANADIAN!

robz

It's possible.
My cam only ls6 setup makes around 500whp dynojet thru 4.10's and a 45+lb clutch.

Toque

Haha....
My original numbers 448/432 were from LGs in 2006. A few years later my numbers were verified at another shops dyno 450/428 (True Street Motorsports). Then I added a monster ported Fast 92/LS2 throttle body which gave me 471/441 at True Street Motorsports.

Toque

nullpointer

For some context/data (my old setup):

231/236 Cam
AI ported 243s (64cc)
Fast 92 ported by Peak Speed
90mm TB ported by Peak Speed
XS Power 1 3/4 headers to borla stingers
Mantic 9000

Arun's Dyno



I say its doable with the right selection of parts.

dbs1vette

No doubt those using a dynojet vs a mustang dyno in most circumstances will see 10-15% more power. Using the 1/4 mile mph with the DA figures and weight of said vehicle and driver will give a more realistic figure Of What the car is making at the wheels.

Those who have a completely BONE STOCK LS6 with nothing more than a cam, no aftermarket exhaust, intake, or TB and are making 500whp...well I wouldn't call that fudging the truth, but...you're one in a million.

REDZED2

Whatever... it doesn't matter.. Merry Xmas guys!

NemesisC5

A combination of massaged AFR or Trick Flow 210-215's, LG Super Pro 1-3/4 primaries, FAST 92 or 102, 90mm-102mm TB with custom cam to make 8.6 DCR is a great start. Add an ATI 10% under-drive pulley, electric water pump, correct sized "matched injectors", great tune from one of nations top notch tuners and you'll be there. Money invested for best parts along with attention to the small build details are what gets you there. This exact topic comes up all the time and the same answers apply since Tony Mamo was one of if not the first to make 500+ SAE wheel horsepower from LS6 stock cubes. One glaring key point is that you don't need a giant cam to do this, it's likely been done more times without big sticks than with big sticks. The guys that pioneered this benchmark thought through every detail rather than throwing on peak flow number heads and big cams. There is a "sticky" on LS1Tech in GEN 3 engine section detailing this very topic so no thinking required, just reading and doing EXACTLY what is documented. Sticky thread starts with posts maybe 10 years ago or longer.

Similar to Mark's aka "Toques" car above, a number of 500 rwhp C5z's are finely tuned daily drivers with no drivability issues.

Of course you can bolt on a A&A or ECS system right out of the box (without the hassle of meth injection) and have your 500 rwhp C5z as well.

NemesisC5

Also as wantbluC6 said, MERRY CHRISTMAS GUYS !