v8srfun

This is whi i will stick with the factory size battery i have seen way to many people gave troubke with small batteries just to switch back to stock

PeteZ06

These batteries are great with great results.. You just need the appropriate tender to keep it charged properly.

PeteZ06

Installed the rear coilovers today..

Stock C6 Z06 shocks, brackets, bolts, leaf spring 14 lbs

Rear LG GT2 coilovers 17 lbs


I lose.. lol

I'm sure they will make a night and day difference but according to what others, including LG were reporting, I should have shed a few lbs.. definitely not gained.. oh well

troyguitar

It's OK, the c5z needs weight on the rear end. My long term plan is to add weight to the back while removing what I can from the front - goal is to shift weight distribution from stock 53/47 to 50/50.

klodkrawler05

Coilovers were one of the items on my possible to do list mostly from the saving weight side of things, guess thats a no go this year!

for reference are the LG coilovers aluminum body shocks or steel? are the springs 2.25 or 2.5" diameter?

Since its a weight gain and I'm happy with my current spring rates looks like I'll upgrade shocks but leave the stock leaf springs in place.

Although I also like Troy's idea about shifting weight to the back, hmmm

PeteZ06

Swapped out for lighter tires.

Was running NT05R 315/40/18.. Advertised at 33 lbs
Went with Hoosier A6 315/30/18 .. Advertised at 27 lbs

According to my digital scale..

Nittos are just under 32 lbs with a bit over 1000 miles of use.
Hoosiers just under 27 lbs
CCWs 18x11.5 22 lbs

So the Nittos are lighter than advertised and I was hoping the CCWs were closer to 20lbs.

But all in all lost 10 lbs of unsprung weight and the Hoosiers seem to have a slightly wider contact surface.

rjwz28

Do you have a second set of rolling stock for street use? The A6 is an autocross tire

PeteZ06

This is for street use.. I don't daily drive my car.

Ive ran Hoosier R6 tires when I had my blower on.

Solofast

Using either R6's or A6's on the street is an incredibly bad idea.

First of all neither one has a lot of forward bite. I've used the A6 extensively for autocross duty and can tell you for a fact that they don't have a much grip off the line. If you are looking for grip on acceleration the Hoosiers aren't that good at all.

Secondly after about 40 autocross runs the A6's harden up and become pretty worthless. If you use them in the summer that means that after you take them out and get them warm (drive them around for a while) they will start to harden up and lose grip very quickly. The R6 isn't as bad but it heat cycles too. In addition, racing rubber picks up all kinds of trash and oil from the street and it degrades the tire pretty quickly in terms of grip if you drive them on the street very often. They may feel sticky at first, but after a while you are better off with a real street tire since it will have more grip than a used up racing tire.

Thirdly these tires are very thin and while they pass the DOT test for impact resistance they really don't have any rubber on them and they cut very easily. Running over a good size piece of glass or even a small piece of sheet metal on the street will cut them down to the cords and the tire will start to come apart.

Lastly, don't get caught in the rain since these are slicks and have zero tread, and if it gets cold they are less than worthless.

Hoosier clearly states that these tires are racing tires and they should not be used on the street for the reasons noted above. And yes they are very light, but that's because they aren't intended to be a street tire. Once you get down to the cord, these tires will distort quickly and fall apart, we've abused them in testing to that point, and it comes a lot faster than it does with real street tires.

I'll drive a few miles to a local autocross event on Hoosiers, but if I'm going more than 15 miles to the event I take my tires on a tag along trailer and don't drive them at all. They are so easily damaged on the street that you can end up stuck at the side of the road and it's not worth the trouble.

PeteZ06

Thanks for the input.. but I have run the R6 for many years when I had my blower on the LS6.. I did not experience any of the things you mention. I also never drive my car in the rain. Another thing is that I usually put only around 1500 miles on my car per season and end up getting a new set of tires for the following year. I may try the Hoosier DR next if I don't like these.

Heres me enjoying the Hoosier R6's in a 335/30/18 size

rjwz28

The R6 is going to be more resilient than the A6, since you have more time to heat up tires on a road course than an autocross course

the Michelin Pilot Sport Cup and Cup 2 are lighter and more aggressive than your typical street tire while still being suitable for street use... that is as aggressive as I'd go on the street

PeteZ06

Correct, which is exactly why I went with the A6, I need heat to build up faster. I need the tires to last me only a few months, so resiliency is not a factor.

I'd rock a pair of Sport Cups, great lightweight tire, but the widest they offer in a 18" is a 295.. thats just not going to hold the power.

Between running R6, R888 and NT05R tires, the R6's seem to have felt the best once they warmed up enough.

Solofast

You need some heat to get any of the Hoosiers to work, they're race tires after all. The A6 heats up faster and is softer than the R6, but it also heat cycles out a lot faster. That softer rubber hardens up more and faster, no doubt about it.

You could use a set of R6's for an entire autocross season and not feel like they were getting any worse, but as I said after 40 runs the A6's are heat cycled and the grip really drops off. With two drivers in the car that equates to 7 or 8 heat cycles and then expect them to start to drop off. After 12 or so heat cycles they won't work at all unless you get them smoking hot, and then that sort of "finishes them off". The hotter cycle really uses up the life and after a couple of "hot cycles" like that they are like stones.

The amount that you heat cycle the A6 also fits into how long it takes to go off. It's a time at temperature thing. If you are running on a hot track and running hot tire temps (over 150 degrees F) you can burn them up in about 20 minutes of track time. If you are getting them moderately hot (like less than 120 degrees or so) in an autocross they last a bit longer. With two drivers and getting the tires to 140 degrees, as I said above, they last about 7 or 8 heat cycles and then they fall off. On the street, if you don't get them real hot they may go a bit longer, but that also depends on how hot the day is and how hard you run them on the street. Considering that a set of Hoosier's for a C5Z costs $1200 or more, and figuring that you may get to use them a dozen or so times before they go into the toilet it's like taking out a $100 bill every time you use the car.

For that reason, even though top level street tires are pretty expensive, the fact that they don't heat cycle out makes them a much better proposition for street duty.

PeteZ06

Thanks! This is definitely good info!!

I'm going to keep an eye on them and see what happens as we get deeper into the summer season. I may learn a lesson here and go another route next time.

rjwz28

I'd definitely run the R888, Trofeo R, PSC, or PSC2 on a street car; the only reason those aren't on my list is because I don't want to catch weather in the mountains between here and San Diego on R-comps. Just some info for next time your wheel sizes definitely limit your tire options if 295s aren't wide enough for you