jumpinmeanz

ok so this season i want to break 400 rwhp and would like to be more then 420 at the end of season.

current set up is

texas speed 1 3/4 header into off road 3" x pipe exiting out of borla cat back.

black wing intake

tuned to 393rwhp/390 ft lbs

could i change the rockers? cam? how big a of cam 220-230?


future plans is to go with a A&A kit.

~STOLEN~

cam kit and tune would prob get you where you wanna be

but i would do heads/cam/intake all at the same time if you could. would make the best numbers with a well put together combination.
plus you wont look back and say i should have done it while it was apart

jumpinmeanz

ah ok, i see what your saying. So should i port my 243 heads and upgrade the valve train then spec a cam to match? or just get a cam and do the supporting mods to that? how big of a cam should i go what do i look for? first time with the whole cam world. thanks!

john8642

Just my opinion, but if your definitely planning to add a SC in the future, depending on your ultimate goals, you might not need to spend the $3000 on heads and cam. there's a lot of cars here making over 500hp with the A&A SC and stock internals.

PeteZ06

Almost any mid 220's cam and UD pulley should get you to 420.

Breze84

I used the Arun Stage 3 N/A cam in my old C5Z and made 438/408 with just 1 3/4 x 2.5 headers and a tune...

rjwz28

Dynos vary based on type, operator, environment, and fuel quality. You may be disappointed if you set that as your only benchmark; see my sig for a good example of that. I'm running PRC Stage 2.5 5.3 heads, a ported LS2 TB fed by a Halltech intake going through a FAST 102 intake manifold, and a 230/234 cam... my car should actually make 450+rwhp, but that's not the result I got on dyno day

neutron82

he could make 500 easy with a centri blower since he already has longtubes, if that is your goal then I agree to skip the heads/cam... if you want 600+ then go for it... with a mid 220's to very low 230's cam you could meet your n/a goal but will still respond well with boost and drive almost like stock once tuned properly... you don't even have to touch your heads if you don't want to, you can make good power without porting them and adding a cam and blower... porting them does help the efficiency of the motor though since it will be able to flow the extra air that the blower is forcing in and however much the cam will allow it to eat... so for example with ported heads you might make the same power with 8psi as you would with non-ported heads and 10psi... I would leave the factory rockers but highly recommend doing a trunion upgrade whichever way you go and obviously valve springs if you do a cam... in my opinion you should also look into adding meth or e85 to the equation as the power levels start to get over the 600 range... good choice on a&a, you can't go wrong with them

bikeriderga

I agree. Why spend the extra moolah if your goal is 500-550 RWHP. A blower with long tubes should easily get you into that range on a modest 7 lb boost.

dagon138

If you're really wanting a hotter N/A setup to run for awhile while leaving the door open for FI.

You could get your head's CNC'd, get your stock Z06 valves done up with a valve job, new push-rods, Trunion upgrade.
Go with a blower-friendly camshaft spec, and get valve springs that are recommend for the cam.

Should be there (420+) after that, and it still compatible with a supercharger.

Mind you all the work when done isn't MUCH cheaper than just going supercharged in the 1st place. Honestly think about that.

Have you upgraded your clutch yet? Either way you're going to need it.

neutron82

personally I wouldn't mess with the heads unless you plan to make big power... you can easily make your goal of 420 with just a cam added to your current mods and with a centri blower can make well over 700 on the stock casting 243's... but if you do port them as I said they will be more efficient and make the same power with less boost

jumpinmeanz

well as of now I'm looking to set my self up to "in the long run" go with a s/c kit. yes I'm looking into a monster stage 2 clutch with a aluminum flywheel ( not the lighten one) or the ls7 clutch kit. same price as it seems. i have that dreaded clutch stick. so thats a must. so if i went with a mid 220 cam and under drive pulley it would net me around 420 rwhp? what would a a ud pulley do? is there any special way i need to support this mod? would the car rev faster or is it just a lighten pulley to reduce the rotational mass on the engine? in return making it rev faster? so with a 220 cam what kind of lift do i have to watch out for?
also if i where to just install a s/c kit how long would the engine hold that power level? is the trans ok with this powerful? I'm just thinking about a lot of things involved with the cam swap and the s/c kit. sorry if I'm scatter brain right now guys but i'm taking in all the comments and doing more research. also sorry for the delay in response as i work a lot.

jumpinmeanz

another thought, the best time I've ran in my car was 12.2 @ 115 with a 1.6 60' with this setup. consistently ran 12.5 if i remember correctly. it would be nice to be in the 11's. I'm sure the cam would get me there but what should i expect with that type of cam. id rather base off of where i want to be in that sense. but here is the kicker i also autocross with this car as well.

neutron82

do not do an underdrive balancer if you plan on doing a supercharger, do an overdrive balancer instead... you will pick up a pound or two of boost and get better belt wrap... a good tune is essential to the life of the motor... you could just as easily blow it on 4psi as you could 20psi, a lot of it is in the tune so just make sure someone experienced with boosted ls motors tunes it... with the trans and diff a lot of that has to do with your driving style... if you put on some sticky tires and do some heavy launches at the track then yeah it won't last long but if you are mainly doing highway rolls then it can live for awhile... the best drivetrain upgrade would be an 08+ z06/grand sport/zr1 tr6060 trans and diff, those in stock form are much stronger than any built c5 trans/diff

neutron82

well you can either ditch the blower idea or ditch road racing... superchargers aren't the best for that type of racing due to the amount of heat they generate, they are better for short sprints and not running them hard consistently for extended periods of time... I'm sure some have done it but it isn't ideal, you should be able to get around a road course pretty good with the power you have now

Black 02

I have a mild EPS cam that is 230/234 and I did 419/390 with stock heads, stock intake and XS Power long tubes. Only other mod was a vararam intake. Each dyno can vary though, the real test would be taking it to the track to see what it traps.

jumpinmeanz

does this pulley comes with s/c kit usually? man I'm starting to realize this is a lot of work for this platform… nah its probably just all the info being taking in at once. but I'm starting a list of what to look into. so for the belt slipping issue, should i get a 8 rib kit then? i know belt slipping is a pain and seems to be a big issue as it was on my s/c shelby sp 360. i have a guy around here that deals with a ton of 800 + hp turbo ls base cars and he only touches ls vehicles.

jumpinmeanz

hmm is there away to build up the engine for a blower engine and still produce a decent amount of power? then down the road add the s/c? i am more at the 1320 then the autocross track. this car does move on the track for being semi stock. i also was thinking about the upp turbo kit as it the same power. would that be more consistent power wise?

jumpinmeanz

how does the car feel? i was looking into england green cams. how are the driving manners of that cam? take it to any track events?

neutron82

balancers typically aren't included in base kits but if you buy the kit new talk to Andy at a&a and I'm sure he can work out a deal with you... depends on what kind of power you want to make, with 550hp a 6 rib belt would be fine, even 650-700 you might not have an issue it just depends on the blower pulley size/belt wrap and how straight the pulleys are in line with each other... the smaller the pulley the less wrap you have which is more prone to slipping and also I would use a laser to align all of your pulleys... if you get an overdrive balancer right off the bat get at least an 8 rib even if you plan on just running a 6 rib belt and you might even consider a 10 rib if you ever plan to go big, that way you don't have to buy an expensive balancer twice... you could also look into an a&a secondary drive, that with an 8 rib blower belt can pretty much guarantee no slip unless you are making really high boost... also make sure your fuel system is up to par, basically find out what power level you want to be at and then you can figure out a plan to get there... blowers definitely are a lot of work but once they are done are lots of fun... my car with boltons and cam to me was still kinda tame, it never really felt like it had ***** until after the blower... if you get addicted be prepared to break out the wallet