[Z06] C5Z Reliability and Maintenance Costs?
07-06-2015, 02:29 AM
#21
Race Director
I have to agree I have RE760's $800 and for daily "street" use there fine and i'm 400+ rwhp, not every one is going to push the limits of the car on the street (to need $1500 tires) maybe get a little aggressive on twisty roads or on/off ramps I have no problem with them, in the rain they actually surprised me cause the grip is pretty good! on dry ground i can take off in 1st and get good grip or I can pop the clutch and roast 1st and 2nd its all about how you drive! to be honest a stock c5z DOES NOT need $1500+ tires for the street. as for wheel hop I get it with my drag radials too at times 
makes no sense
stay stock if you aren't going to add traction for the power. the re760 is already past it's limits on a stock car
that tire is very unpredictable on brake/apex entry and overall feedback. when you're near the limit it's like grip grip gone. not a tire i would want under me cornering at 100mph on the backroads
07-06-2015, 03:06 AM
#22
Instructor
I'd agree with dbgoodwin regarding maintenence costs. Ajrothm points out that there lots of widely experienced failures, but my wifes 65K, 99 vert, and my 17K 03 Z combined haven't experienced all the isses it seems he had. I think perhaps he's just been that statistical, 3 standard deviation anomaly. He certainly has my sympathy. Basic maintenence, tires and oil chamges are more expensive than most cars. Brakes done in your own garage are relatively cheap. In the last 32K (combined) miles, our only repair has been a replacement AC compressor. Otherwise, just maintenence.
Consider skipping the wheel and tire cost for winter tires, and putting that money toward a beater. Just a thought.
Consider skipping the wheel and tire cost for winter tires, and putting that money toward a beater. Just a thought.
07-06-2015, 11:04 AM
#23
Melting Slicks
why would a person to mod a car only to handicap it with the tires?
makes no sense
stay stock if you aren't going to add traction for the power. the re760 is already past it's limits on a stock car
that tire is very unpredictable on brake/apex entry and overall feedback. when you're near the limit it's like grip grip gone. not a tire i would want under me cornering at 100mph on the backroads
makes no sense
stay stock if you aren't going to add traction for the power. the re760 is already past it's limits on a stock car
that tire is very unpredictable on brake/apex entry and overall feedback. when you're near the limit it's like grip grip gone. not a tire i would want under me cornering at 100mph on the backroads
ive seen 171mph with the RE760's on/off ramps way double the posted recommended limit so for me there just fine for daily use, on the road you corner @ 100mph i can only do it @ 97mph big deal
i'm not the type that runs out and gets the new iphone cause some one said its better I still only have the 5
i've had different tires and know the difference didnt just ready about it online I had DW's on my 03z when I got it, swapped to RE760's and my 01z had Michelin's on it witch i removed when i bolted up my aftermarket wheels with the RE760 on them
yes the DW was a "touch" better but not by much at all! they might make better times on the track where every second counts but on the street it not enough to spend almost twice the cost, when i need more traction I just bolt up my other wheels some of us have more then 1 set of wheels, just cause i built up my car dont mean i'm on it all day long driving like and idiot.
07-06-2015, 11:53 AM
#24
Drifting
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Chesterfield (St. Louis) MO
Posts: 1,377
Received 40 Likes
on
34 Posts
I still don't understand why the RE760s get ripped on as much as they do... When I was bolt on (386 WHP SAE), they were a great tire. I could WOT 2nd gear at will, as long as the temps were decent. 1st gear as well, rolling into it, with minimal tire spin. Road wear was excellent as well, and road noise basically non existent.
I can't comment on the cornering at 100 MPH abilities... IMO, that is just asking for trouble on the road with any tire.
I can't comment on the cornering at 100 MPH abilities... IMO, that is just asking for trouble on the road with any tire.
07-06-2015, 12:38 PM
#25
Safety Car
I still don't understand why the RE760s get ripped on as much as they do... When I was bolt on (386 WHP SAE), they were a great tire. I could WOT 2nd gear at will, as long as the temps were decent. 1st gear as well, rolling into it, with minimal tire spin. Road wear was excellent as well, and road noise basically non existent.
I can't comment on the cornering at 100 MPH abilities... IMO, that is just asking for trouble on the road with any tire.
I can't comment on the cornering at 100 MPH abilities... IMO, that is just asking for trouble on the road with any tire.
07-06-2015, 02:21 PM
#26
Race Director
the pilot super sport on the other hand you can push to the limit and know exactly where you're at. feedback is excellent and you can hold some really outstanding lines. yokohamas ad08 is also another really good one
even the soft case DW lets you know what it's doing albeit in a bit of a numb fashion. i drove the re760 for a bit and i absolutely would not push that tire. it's a wrecked car waiting to happen. the really odd part about it though....straight line traction wasn't all that bad for what it was. you can do 0-100 launches pretty easily.
07-06-2015, 03:38 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
why would a person to mod a car only to handicap it with the tires?
makes no sense
stay stock if you aren't going to add traction for the power. the re760 is already past it's limits on a stock car
that tire is very unpredictable on brake/apex entry and overall feedback. when you're near the limit it's like grip grip gone. not a tire i would want under me cornering at 100mph on the backroads
makes no sense
stay stock if you aren't going to add traction for the power. the re760 is already past it's limits on a stock car
that tire is very unpredictable on brake/apex entry and overall feedback. when you're near the limit it's like grip grip gone. not a tire i would want under me cornering at 100mph on the backroads
07-06-2015, 04:11 PM
#28
Safety Car
the tire is unpredictable and difficult to bring back once it starts moving
the pilot super sport on the other hand you can push to the limit and know exactly where you're at. feedback is excellent and you can hold some really outstanding lines. yokohamas ad08 is also another really good one
even the soft case DW lets you know what it's doing albeit in a bit of a numb fashion. i drove the re760 for a bit and i absolutely would not push that tire. it's a wrecked car waiting to happen. the really odd part about it though....straight line traction wasn't all that bad for what it was. you can do 0-100 launches pretty easily.
the pilot super sport on the other hand you can push to the limit and know exactly where you're at. feedback is excellent and you can hold some really outstanding lines. yokohamas ad08 is also another really good one
even the soft case DW lets you know what it's doing albeit in a bit of a numb fashion. i drove the re760 for a bit and i absolutely would not push that tire. it's a wrecked car waiting to happen. the really odd part about it though....straight line traction wasn't all that bad for what it was. you can do 0-100 launches pretty easily.
07-06-2015, 07:11 PM
#29
Team Owner
I wouldn't want to daily-drive a C5Z 20K+ miles/year. I certainly wouldn't want to drive it in heavy rain or snow on a regular basis.
Buy a less expensive C5Z and a beater car for winter/bad weather. Preferably a beater you can get good mpg with 87 octane and can run cheap tires on...
Buy a less expensive C5Z and a beater car for winter/bad weather. Preferably a beater you can get good mpg with 87 octane and can run cheap tires on...
07-07-2015, 02:19 AM
#30
5th Gear
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can buy tires for 800.00 and they will perform like 800.00 tires. If you plan on running cheap tires, be ready for wheel hop at 3500 RPM plus aggressive shifts and deafening tire roar. Why have a 1.xG capable car and put cheap tires on it. I wouldn't.
If you can get a beater for snow/ice, should work fine for you. But heavy rains, etc. don't skimp on tires. You will regret it!
Getting summer tires and a spare set for all weather is not a bad idea.
Just remember the Z06 is a true sports car. It will handle and drive accordingly.
P.S. Not sure why someone would think a Coupe would make a better daily driver. I have owned both and that would not be my experience. I actually think my Z rides better than the coupe. I did not daily drive the C5 Coupe however nor the Z06.
I have been caught in light rain only a couple of times in the Z and two heavy downpours in the C5 Coupe. On the Coupe ABS kicked on during heavy rain. It was not too scary, but I would definitely slow it down and watch quick takeoffs and turns. Of course both cars had Michelins on them.
If you can get a beater for snow/ice, should work fine for you. But heavy rains, etc. don't skimp on tires. You will regret it!
Getting summer tires and a spare set for all weather is not a bad idea.
Just remember the Z06 is a true sports car. It will handle and drive accordingly.
P.S. Not sure why someone would think a Coupe would make a better daily driver. I have owned both and that would not be my experience. I actually think my Z rides better than the coupe. I did not daily drive the C5 Coupe however nor the Z06.
I have been caught in light rain only a couple of times in the Z and two heavy downpours in the C5 Coupe. On the Coupe ABS kicked on during heavy rain. It was not too scary, but I would definitely slow it down and watch quick takeoffs and turns. Of course both cars had Michelins on them.
I've been daily driving my Z06 since the day that I bought it. I bought the car 7 years ago with about 16,000 miles, and it now has almost 179,000 miles. While my car has not been to the track, I do drive aggressively from time to time.
Tire choices such as Bridgestone RE760 or Continental DW are relatively inexpensive for these cars, with a full set costing you between $800 and $1,100 installed (depending on where you get them, warranties, etc.). Both are good daily driver tires, with the Continental DW (not DWS) having more traction than the RE760. For a daily driver with lots of highway miles, the rears of either of these choices will last you 30K+ miles, and the fronts between 40K and 50K, depending on your alignment and driving habits. Throw in a couple track days though, and all bets are off. On a side note, I never experienced wheel hop on the street with either of these, both were quiet, and both did well in the rain (DW was outstanding in the rain). If you start modding the car, you may need a stickier tire.
With no track days (road course or autocross), you will NOT be changing out your brakes once a year. You shouldn't have any problems getting 40-60,000 miles out of your brake pads, depending on which ones you use. I think my last set of pads (Hawk HPS) lasted about 70,000. But again, throw one track day in the mix...
I change the oil when the oil life monitor gets around 10%. Tranny and rear diff fluids get changed once a year. Spark plugs once a year (I use copper instead of iridium or platinum).
If you combine the cost of tires, brakes, fluids, wiper blades, batteries, plugs, and plug wires that I've purchased over the years, the average is about $900 in maintenance costs per year. Most of it being tires.
Repairs over the years (not included in maintenance costs):
1. AC compressor, dryer, etc. - $1,500 parts and labor.
2. Both window motors and regulators - $150 each for parts.
3. EBCM - $0 (Repaired it myself)
4. Cracked radiator - $250 in parts
5. Water pump (replaced while I was having a cam installed) - $300 (I think) for parts
I think that's about everything, from my experience at least.
Tire choices such as Bridgestone RE760 or Continental DW are relatively inexpensive for these cars, with a full set costing you between $800 and $1,100 installed (depending on where you get them, warranties, etc.). Both are good daily driver tires, with the Continental DW (not DWS) having more traction than the RE760. For a daily driver with lots of highway miles, the rears of either of these choices will last you 30K+ miles, and the fronts between 40K and 50K, depending on your alignment and driving habits. Throw in a couple track days though, and all bets are off. On a side note, I never experienced wheel hop on the street with either of these, both were quiet, and both did well in the rain (DW was outstanding in the rain). If you start modding the car, you may need a stickier tire.
With no track days (road course or autocross), you will NOT be changing out your brakes once a year. You shouldn't have any problems getting 40-60,000 miles out of your brake pads, depending on which ones you use. I think my last set of pads (Hawk HPS) lasted about 70,000. But again, throw one track day in the mix...
I change the oil when the oil life monitor gets around 10%. Tranny and rear diff fluids get changed once a year. Spark plugs once a year (I use copper instead of iridium or platinum).
If you combine the cost of tires, brakes, fluids, wiper blades, batteries, plugs, and plug wires that I've purchased over the years, the average is about $900 in maintenance costs per year. Most of it being tires.
Repairs over the years (not included in maintenance costs):
1. AC compressor, dryer, etc. - $1,500 parts and labor.
2. Both window motors and regulators - $150 each for parts.
3. EBCM - $0 (Repaired it myself)
4. Cracked radiator - $250 in parts
5. Water pump (replaced while I was having a cam installed) - $300 (I think) for parts
I think that's about everything, from my experience at least.
Sounds like I should aim for the Continental DW; I'm not a particularly aggressive driver, but I do have my days.
I have absolutely 0 intents of doing track for some time, so 40k-60k on the pads wounds wonderful. 30k+ on the tires is better than I expected.
Im only a little north of you, up in Dallas, I can't imagine the climate is drastically different.(Hope your 'vette survived the rain this year!)
$900 a year sounds amazing to me; cheaper than my car is right now.
you can pickup a decent jack, ramps and jack stands off CL or your local Harborfreight, I prefer a jack with at least 17" lift and a low profile under 4" minimum height works best for my car (at stock height) lowered I need to drive up on some wood ramps I made to get the jack under the front of the car
Awesome! Ill take a look.
$800 tires are fine for me. I can get the back end to come out if I want but they are grippy when accelerating and taking turns with some spirit.
If you can budget 2-3k a year...I highly doubt you will have over 6k in maintenance/repairs after 3 years. Your depreciation will be roughly 6-7k if you put on 60k miles in 3 years and buy it at $22k. You are buying a pretty "low mileage" Z if you are going to put a ton of miles on it.
IMO, the 13 years these cars have been around cause more problems than the mileage.
If you can budget 2-3k a year...I highly doubt you will have over 6k in maintenance/repairs after 3 years. Your depreciation will be roughly 6-7k if you put on 60k miles in 3 years and buy it at $22k. You are buying a pretty "low mileage" Z if you are going to put a ton of miles on it.
IMO, the 13 years these cars have been around cause more problems than the mileage.
I haven't had time to go take a look at the cars, but I do have both of them on hold from their respective dealers, and I have appointments for tomorrow/today(The 7th) to go see them. The Chevy dealer agreed to have their Corvette guy contact the previous owner of the lower mileage C5Z, and see if he's okay with coming up and seeing me, or at least talking to me on the phone. Hopefully that'll give me some info on how well the car was kept over the last 10 years.
I'd agree with dbgoodwin regarding maintenence costs. Ajrothm points out that there lots of widely experienced failures, but my wifes 65K, 99 vert, and my 17K 03 Z combined haven't experienced all the isses it seems he had. I think perhaps he's just been that statistical, 3 standard deviation anomaly. He certainly has my sympathy. Basic maintenence, tires and oil chamges are more expensive than most cars. Brakes done in your own garage are relatively cheap. In the last 32K (combined) miles, our only repair has been a replacement AC compressor. Otherwise, just maintenence.
Consider skipping the wheel and tire cost for winter tires, and putting that money toward a beater. Just a thought.
Consider skipping the wheel and tire cost for winter tires, and putting that money toward a beater. Just a thought.
ALSO;
Shoutout to dbgoodwin. I'm feeling too lazy to directly quote his posts, but I appreciate you're info on the C5Z being fine in the snow and the rain. That's been my only real concern. I live in Dallas, and we only get a few days of snow a year. But I'll still need to drive places for various reasons. We get quite a bit of rain in the spring, so knowing that they're fine in the rain is comforting.
07-07-2015, 09:57 AM
#31
I have absolutely 0 intents of doing track for some time, so 40k-60k on the pads wounds wonderful. 30k+ on the tires is better than I expected.
Im only a little north of you, up in Dallas, I can't imagine the climate is drastically different.(Hope your 'vette survived the rain this year!)
$900 a year sounds amazing to me; cheaper than my car is right now.
Im only a little north of you, up in Dallas, I can't imagine the climate is drastically different.(Hope your 'vette survived the rain this year!)
$900 a year sounds amazing to me; cheaper than my car is right now.
I would avoid driving on ice and snow-covered roads with these cars, unless you have some kind of all-season tire on there. The Bridgestone RE760 and Continental DW tires are summer tires, and won't do well. You can manage if you have to since Dallas is mostly flat, but you will have very, very little grip. (Just be smart about it and remember that you will lose grip long before anyone else.) The Continental DWS is an all-season tire that you can consider if you don't mind losing a little dry performance.
If I had to do it all over again, I would still daily drive the Z. I don't regret a moment of it.
Last edited by philadd; 07-07-2015 at 09:59 AM.
07-07-2015, 10:16 AM
#32
5th Gear
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The main difference between Dallas and Houston weather is that we only get ice and/or snow once every few years. These cars do perfectly fine in the rain... It's all in your tire choice.
I would avoid driving on ice and snow-covered roads with these cars, unless you have some kind of all-season tire on there. The Bridgestone RE760 and Continental DW tires are summer tires, and won't do well. You can manage if you have to since Dallas is mostly flat, but you will have very, very little grip. (Just be smart about it and remember that you will lose grip long before anyone else.) The Continental DWS is an all-season tire that you can consider if you don't mind losing a little dry performance.
If I had to do it all over again, I would still daily drive the Z. I don't regret a moment of it.
I would avoid driving on ice and snow-covered roads with these cars, unless you have some kind of all-season tire on there. The Bridgestone RE760 and Continental DW tires are summer tires, and won't do well. You can manage if you have to since Dallas is mostly flat, but you will have very, very little grip. (Just be smart about it and remember that you will lose grip long before anyone else.) The Continental DWS is an all-season tire that you can consider if you don't mind losing a little dry performance.
If I had to do it all over again, I would still daily drive the Z. I don't regret a moment of it.
Thanks!
Im glad your Vette survived this years rains. I heard Houston got it particularly bad.
07-14-2015, 04:15 PM
#34
Safety Car
07-15-2015, 12:10 AM
#35
Race Director
mmm z06 isn't really a race car. it's just a street car with a little extra. perfectly civil for a DD
a race car would be something stripped with a lot of power and very sticky tires
a race car would be something stripped with a lot of power and very sticky tires
07-15-2015, 11:23 AM
#36
Instructor
Member Since: Mar 2014
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a Heads/cam 461whp 02 Z06 on RE760's and they hold up well enough. If I went with a stickier tire I don't doubt it would be better, but for the cost I'm not mad. I haven't done a track day on them so I can't recommend them for that. I do get the car sideways in dry/rain and I think its very controllable with these on the rears. In 60 degrees and above I can usually get first gear to hook up even. Under that it struggles to do anything in first, but I always can roll second.
07-15-2015, 02:30 PM
#37
Drifting
why would a person to mod a car only to handicap it with the tires?
makes no sense
stay stock if you aren't going to add traction for the power. the re760 is already past it's limits on a stock car
that tire is very unpredictable on brake/apex entry and overall feedback. when you're near the limit it's like grip grip gone. not a tire i would want under me cornering at 100mph on the backroads
makes no sense
stay stock if you aren't going to add traction for the power. the re760 is already past it's limits on a stock car
that tire is very unpredictable on brake/apex entry and overall feedback. when you're near the limit it's like grip grip gone. not a tire i would want under me cornering at 100mph on the backroads
07-15-2015, 08:20 PM
#38
Drifting
If you want good info on cost and maintenance trust the owner with over 100k, (129k) and has owned the Z since new.
Two sets of front upper/lower A-arms (by 1k) the bushings didn't like hard braking with sticky Hoosiers A6s. Third set (I'm guessing were T-1s because they are still great and soled after all they'v been thru) I also had the same problem with my Y2K C5 (two sets in one year)
ABS modul, fixed original (ABS Fixer)
Collum lock, happed to mine 10 years ago, cost $880 at dealer with toe (that sucked and should have been a recall fix.
Rear wheel bearing, 110k easy fix.
Clutch (pressur plate) falling apart one small peace at a time 115k. New flywheel/PP/disk $525, two days bonding doing the fix myself (easer then it looks)
I'm on my third set of rotors, and 10+ (maybe) pads. This car was my Solo ll National weapon for four year, 150 mph lic at Bonni, and has 100+ track days... Brakes are cheap insurance.
AC compressor and maybe dryer, just have gotten around to replacing it. (failed at 103k of continuing use)
Self fixed the HAVC control unit. Also simple.
DYI the steering position sensor. That also looked like it was going to be a pain to do, but was fairly straight forward to do.
Belts replace once,
Trans/Diff fluids change twice.
Oil changed when at 10% life
Tires: I was one of the first to receive Mitch's PS2s (18 square free from sponsor first set) three sets (stock sizes and short on wear they were with very aggressive alignment), untold sets of Hoosiers, Kumo's, and one set of Mitch PS comps, But the best over all tire for DD work (hear comes the flames) Conti DW's I'm on my second set and this time went with the 255 front, although the 275 worked very well (first set) the 255's do seem to have a better turn-in feel, and no diff in grip. The first set (with HPDE's) lasted twice the milage of the PS's, they may not have the direct feeling of PS's, but every bit as good in overall grip, and way better (way way better) in the rain, noise, and ride quality, they do suck in snow but so did the Mitch's.
I'm also still on my original set of spark plugs, I'll change the when (?) and forth or fifth air cleaner.
My car has seen, Rain, Snow, Ice (nothing likes Ice) and salt. Other then some sand rash along the rockers, it's still a sweet looking car.
I did change out shocks as soon as the car entered my garage (140 miles) I'v also changed out the sway bar end links to T-1 (a little noise but still working and tight).
Oh, and I my dog rides in it ( bark twice to go faster) almost daily.
Mark
Two sets of front upper/lower A-arms (by 1k) the bushings didn't like hard braking with sticky Hoosiers A6s. Third set (I'm guessing were T-1s because they are still great and soled after all they'v been thru) I also had the same problem with my Y2K C5 (two sets in one year)
ABS modul, fixed original (ABS Fixer)
Collum lock, happed to mine 10 years ago, cost $880 at dealer with toe (that sucked and should have been a recall fix.
Rear wheel bearing, 110k easy fix.
Clutch (pressur plate) falling apart one small peace at a time 115k. New flywheel/PP/disk $525, two days bonding doing the fix myself (easer then it looks)
I'm on my third set of rotors, and 10+ (maybe) pads. This car was my Solo ll National weapon for four year, 150 mph lic at Bonni, and has 100+ track days... Brakes are cheap insurance.
AC compressor and maybe dryer, just have gotten around to replacing it. (failed at 103k of continuing use)
Self fixed the HAVC control unit. Also simple.
DYI the steering position sensor. That also looked like it was going to be a pain to do, but was fairly straight forward to do.
Belts replace once,
Trans/Diff fluids change twice.
Oil changed when at 10% life
Tires: I was one of the first to receive Mitch's PS2s (18 square free from sponsor first set) three sets (stock sizes and short on wear they were with very aggressive alignment), untold sets of Hoosiers, Kumo's, and one set of Mitch PS comps, But the best over all tire for DD work (hear comes the flames) Conti DW's I'm on my second set and this time went with the 255 front, although the 275 worked very well (first set) the 255's do seem to have a better turn-in feel, and no diff in grip. The first set (with HPDE's) lasted twice the milage of the PS's, they may not have the direct feeling of PS's, but every bit as good in overall grip, and way better (way way better) in the rain, noise, and ride quality, they do suck in snow but so did the Mitch's.
I'm also still on my original set of spark plugs, I'll change the when (?) and forth or fifth air cleaner.
My car has seen, Rain, Snow, Ice (nothing likes Ice) and salt. Other then some sand rash along the rockers, it's still a sweet looking car.
I did change out shocks as soon as the car entered my garage (140 miles) I'v also changed out the sway bar end links to T-1 (a little noise but still working and tight).
Oh, and I my dog rides in it ( bark twice to go faster) almost daily.
Mark
Last edited by Moto One; 07-15-2015 at 08:36 PM.
07-15-2015, 08:33 PM
#39
Race Director
If you want good info on cost and maintenance trust the owner with over 100k, and has owned the Z since new.
Two sets of front upper/lower A-arms (by 1k) the bushings didn't like hard braking with sticky Hoosiers A6s. Third set (I'm guessing were T-1s because they are still great and soled after all they'v been thru) I also had the same problem with my Y2K C5 (two sets in one year)
ABS modul, fixed original (ABS Fixer)
Collum lock, happed to mine 10 years ago, cost $880 at dealer with toe (that sucked and should have been a recall fix.
Rear wheel bearing, 110k easy fix.
Clutch (pressur plate) falling apart one small peace at a time 115k. New flywheel/PP/disk $525, two days bonding doing the fix myself (easer then it looks)
I'm on my third set of rotors, and 10+ (maybe) pads. This car was my Solo ll National weapon for four year, 150 mph lic at Bonni, and has 100+ track days... Brakes are cheap insurance.
AC compressor and maybe dryer, just have gotten around to replacing it. (failed at 103k of continuing use)
Self fixed the HAVC control unit. Also simple.
DYI the steering position sensor. That also looked like it was going to be a pain to do, but was fairly straight forward to do.
Belts replace once,
Trans/Diff fluids change twice.
Oil changed when at 10% life
Tires: I was one of the first to receive Mitch's PS2s (18 square but where free from sponsor) three sets, untold sets of Hoosiers, Kumo's, and one set of Mitch PS comps, But the best over all tire for DD work (hear comes the flames) Conti DW's I'm on my second set and this time went with the 255 front, although the 275 worked very well (first set). Twice the milage, not as direct feeling as PS's, but every bit as good in overall grip, and way better (way way better) in the rain, noise, and ride quality, the do suck in snow but so did the Mitch's.
I'm also still on my original set of spark plugs, I'll change the when (?)
My car has seen, Rain, Snow, Ice (nothing likes Ice). and other then sand rash along the rockers, it's still a sweet looking car.
I did change out shocks as soon as the car entered my garage (140 miles) I'v also changed out the sway bar end links to T-1 (a little noise but still working and tight).
Oh, and I let my dog ride in it ( bark twice to go faster).
Mark
Two sets of front upper/lower A-arms (by 1k) the bushings didn't like hard braking with sticky Hoosiers A6s. Third set (I'm guessing were T-1s because they are still great and soled after all they'v been thru) I also had the same problem with my Y2K C5 (two sets in one year)
ABS modul, fixed original (ABS Fixer)
Collum lock, happed to mine 10 years ago, cost $880 at dealer with toe (that sucked and should have been a recall fix.
Rear wheel bearing, 110k easy fix.
Clutch (pressur plate) falling apart one small peace at a time 115k. New flywheel/PP/disk $525, two days bonding doing the fix myself (easer then it looks)
I'm on my third set of rotors, and 10+ (maybe) pads. This car was my Solo ll National weapon for four year, 150 mph lic at Bonni, and has 100+ track days... Brakes are cheap insurance.
AC compressor and maybe dryer, just have gotten around to replacing it. (failed at 103k of continuing use)
Self fixed the HAVC control unit. Also simple.
DYI the steering position sensor. That also looked like it was going to be a pain to do, but was fairly straight forward to do.
Belts replace once,
Trans/Diff fluids change twice.
Oil changed when at 10% life
Tires: I was one of the first to receive Mitch's PS2s (18 square but where free from sponsor) three sets, untold sets of Hoosiers, Kumo's, and one set of Mitch PS comps, But the best over all tire for DD work (hear comes the flames) Conti DW's I'm on my second set and this time went with the 255 front, although the 275 worked very well (first set). Twice the milage, not as direct feeling as PS's, but every bit as good in overall grip, and way better (way way better) in the rain, noise, and ride quality, the do suck in snow but so did the Mitch's.
I'm also still on my original set of spark plugs, I'll change the when (?)
My car has seen, Rain, Snow, Ice (nothing likes Ice). and other then sand rash along the rockers, it's still a sweet looking car.
I did change out shocks as soon as the car entered my garage (140 miles) I'v also changed out the sway bar end links to T-1 (a little noise but still working and tight).
Oh, and I let my dog ride in it ( bark twice to go faster).
Mark
beyond surprised you're on OE front hubs with what you listed
ps. your water pump will start leaking soon
07-15-2015, 08:46 PM
#40
Drifting
. The cars will get replace when I fix the AC.The front hubs are still quiet and tight, I do have a set of new bearings and will fix when need. (they are super easy to do
) PS: I also have blown one of my TI mufflers (a hole in the backing) a couple of months ago... So I have my old Solo system on, but as soon as I fine a good Right Ti muff I'll be back to silent running (sort of).
Mark