79stickshift

First time with my 02 Z on the track, I have tracked a Trans Am and a G8 in the past, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

-I have new pads and Stoptech lines on the shelf, rotors look to be in good shape
-Brake Fluid (haven't decided on which one yet), but probably not drain ABS since I don't have access to a Tech II
-New wheels/tires (ditching the C6 Motorsports for black TSW Interlagos and PSS - they get here tomorrow)
-Changed to '04 Valve springs
-Trans and diff fluid changed a month ago,
-Mobil 1 going in the engine before the track day
-Making recovery hooks as we speak (dad made a set for his MSRC C5 and saved the template)

Am I missing anything? Sorry, I'm pretty **** and want to make sure I didn't overlook anything. I'm planning on an oil cooler this winter. I'm not anticipating going ***** out this first time, but after a couple sessions we shall see!

aaronc7

Clean out the radiator/condenser/shrouds. Lots of crap gets up in there and the C5's cooling system is already marginal on a track in the summer time. Since you'll be flushing it anyways you could run a 60/40 or 70/30 water/antifreeze mix for more cooling capacity, depending on how cold it gets there in the winter.

I went with ATE type 200 brake fluid for my first event and had no issues.

Like you mentioned... larger radiator/oil cooler is next up on my list.

Scooter70

I think you hit all of the basics. Make sure you overfill the oil by a quart or so.

Which pads are you putting on? Do a good cooldown lap without touching the brake pedal to cool off the pads/rotors. Many people will park the car for a few minutes and then push it forward or back a few feet to rotate the rotor so that the caliper isn't retaining heat in one place for too long.

Sox-Fan

How old is the power steering fluid?

By the way, you can exercise the ABS and move the fluid by braking hard on a wet road or simply locking the brakes down hard enough to get into ABS when you go through the process of bedding in those new pads.

79stickshift

I have HP+ pads on the shelf at home. I'll go with Carbotech once I wear out these rotors.

I don't know how old the power steering fluid is, I'll definitely look into changing the fluid.

Thanks for the insight. It'll be my 10th track day or so, just the first in the Vette. Looking forward to it!

JeremyGSU

I would use Castrol SRF and never look back. I've tried Amsoil and Motul600 and neither one of them could touch it. It's worth the extra cost.

Solofast

#1. Go to the Autocross and Road racing page in the general section of the forum. In the sticky at the top are all you need to know about setting up your car for the track. I think you have most of it covered, but there a always little things that make a difference.

#2. Given that you are not a total novice I suspect that you will find that you are using the car pretty hard after the first session. With that in mind you might think seriously about a set of brake ducts for the front. Again, in the Autocross and Road Racing section there are plenty of info on putting in a set of C6 Z ducts on your car and a set of spindle ducts to get the air to the brakes. If you're doing pads and have the wheels and calipers off, it won't take much more to put on a set of spindle ducts and finish the job.

D.Woods

Maybe I totally have misunderstood, but I thought the C5Z had front brake cooling ducts??? Or is what I've seen under the front of mine NOT cooling ducts?

Sox-Fan

It has passages that go from the front bumper into the wheel well. They kinda sorta half *** blow on the front tires and are essentially useless. Solofast is describing ducts that attach to those factory passages and properly direct air to a set of spindle ducts which will then direct air onto the rotors and (if you buy the good ones) to your wheel hubs.

Sox-Fan

The ducts, and hose
http://dougrippie.com/products/c5-brake-ducting/

I'll dig up pictures of the spindle ducts

Sox-Fan

Ah! this is actually a C6, not a C5, but it's the same thing



Do you see the plastic duct at the front of the orange hose? That's the duct I linked above. The factory deal ends at the wheel well and just blows air on the tire. It's mostly useless without an extension, some hose, and then a spindle duct to direct the air properly.

D.Woods

Gotcha! Thanks Sox-Fan

MX621

keep an eye on oil temps... it will get hot pretty quickly with no cooler. ive hit low 290's chasing a gt3 in about 3 laps of hard driving and it was 60 deg ambient.

spdislife

I recently switched to Castrol after using both the Amsoil and Motul 600. I think Motul was better than Amsoil. Bottom line is brakes are critical so don't go cheap on fluid.

I also would bring spare rotors front and rear. I've already cracked rotors after 1 session and the last thing you want is to miss track time. Have fun

D.Woods

Well my rears are cracked and my fronts are hot spotted to hell and gone, so I've been waiting to do the C6 Z51 upgrade.

Is that upgrade worth the expense of the new brackets (no extra expense from the rotors since mine are already trash) to get ~ the 1" larger dia. rotor?

Looks like I'll be for sure waiting until next year before I hit the track so I can get the EOC, brake upgrade, and brake ducts. I've got the tires, alignment, and some bolt-on go-faster mods (unnecessary, I understand), so I think the other upgrades will have me ready to hit the ground running.

Sorry again for the hijack to the OP. Trying to piggyback info while the knowledgeable guys are responding

spdislife

It depends on what your plans are regarding track usage and how hard you run. A number of guys say go to a Stoptech or Brembo system and be done with it, while others claim the OEM C5 Z brakes are adequit for HPDE. The problem with the OEM setup has been the long pedal as the pads wear. I ran like that for years and would just roll my left foot over and tap the brake pedal to remove the slack before a braking zone. That worked but I just got tired of it. Now have a Wilwood 6 piston front caliper on 2 piece KNS rotors and it's an improvement over the OEM. I would call the guys at KNS brakes to get their input. They're know their stuff and have a good product line.

Moto One

First: Prep you head, remember you want to drive your car home at the end of the day so "Safety" is truly #1, 2. Keeping it in the 7 to 8 tenths of the cars ability, (See #1) remember you don't have a full containment seat, belts, or Cage ( you be surprised at what can happen at 75mph when in the heat of the moment you select first and not third at the entry or exit of the corner)... THERE IS REAL DANGERS in this HOBBY. Take you time to learn the tracks line, flag stations, passing rules/zones, and drive smooth with in YOUR comfort limits.

Mark

YYZ06

Are you running 18" rims up front? I'm not sure you can go with the Z51 brackets on 17" rims.

I've been running 18" fronts on the track and went with 18" on the street this year. I'll probably go with the Z51 brackets and larger rotors when my current rotors wear out. That is unless a wad of money falls from the sky...

D.Woods

Yes. 295/35/18 Nitto Nt05's on all corners. Also had a mild street/track alignment done afterwards. I would've went with a "better" tire, but for me, the last set I had (when it was still a staggered factory setup) lasted really good, and performed at what I thought was acceptable enough for a mostly street driven car. I figure, by the time I get a track day or two under my belt and wear these tires out I will have decided how far in to this rabbit hole I want to go. I'm thinking it will be pretty far, as my other motorsports background is in cross country atv and mountain bike racing.... I've been railing corners in cars since the first day I could drive, but setting one up to do it competitively, or as a hobby is a different story.

racebum

agree on ATE super blue or typ200 for the fluid, it's cheap and works great in the clutch and brakes....speaking of which, ranger your clutch before you go. motul is also excellent, i favor either brand when i change my fluid, street or track

as for the oil. DON'T RUN 30W ON A TRACK DAY

you will have higher oil temps and less oil pressure. oil is not that expensive and a nice high mileage mobil1 10-40w or 15-50w would be much safer for the 15min heats you will probably be running.

http://www.c7stingrayregistry.com/pd...PREP_Final.pdf is the prep manual GM published for the stingray.


you can drain and go back to 30w after the event, or, beings it's august and 100deg most everywhere run the 40/50w for another month and change when you get time