[Z06] z06
04-22-2016, 06:33 PM
#3
Uncork that thing with intake and exhaust mods. CAI, long tube headers w/ matching x-pipe and a tune should wake it up. I vote keep the stock ti exhaust to save money unless you want something louder. Shifter would also be a good idea, will make the car more fun to drive.
04-22-2016, 06:42 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
x2
Uncork that thing with intake and exhaust mods. CAI, long tube headers w/ matching x-pipe and a tune should wake it up. I vote keep the stock ti exhaust to save money unless you want something louder. Shifter would also be a good idea, will make the car more fun to drive.
Uncork that thing with intake and exhaust mods. CAI, long tube headers w/ matching x-pipe and a tune should wake it up. I vote keep the stock ti exhaust to save money unless you want something louder. Shifter would also be a good idea, will make the car more fun to drive.
Edit: Let me rephrase...if you are looking for that more aggressive exhaust note, then the money may be worth it, however if you are spending that money simply in search of horsepower, it is money better spent elsewhere.
Last edited by NosLaser; 04-22-2016 at 06:43 PM.
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04-22-2016, 06:46 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
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C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Absolutely. I have yet to see much benefit (aside from noise) of an aftermarket cat back exhaust on a bolt on Z06. Maybe a few hp at the wheels for $1500+? Money better spent elsewhere. I did the Ti bypass mod on mine for a bit more aggressive sound, cost me about $350 parts/labor.
Edit: Let me rephrase...if you are looking for that more aggressive exhaust note, then the money may be worth it, however if you are spending that money simply in search of horsepower, it is money better spent elsewhere.
Edit: Let me rephrase...if you are looking for that more aggressive exhaust note, then the money may be worth it, however if you are spending that money simply in search of horsepower, it is money better spent elsewhere.
I only listed exhaust because that's the typical path that most people take on the forum. FYI I have longtubes running to the stock Ti exhaust as well, and love the sound. The bypass mod may be in my future, but $1500 for an aftermarket system definitely isn't. That'd be dipping into my cam fund.
04-22-2016, 07:12 PM
#6
I only listed exhaust because that's the typical path that most people take on the forum. FYI I have longtubes running to the stock Ti exhaust as well, and love the sound. The bypass mod may be in my future, but $1500 for an aftermarket system definitely isn't. That'd be dipping into my cam fund.
Totally agree, that's craziness IMO. Bypass mod would be real nice, just wish it wasn't so impossible to find someone to do it. I'm thinking a cam would make us both happy.
OP, if you want a little more after the intake and exhaust mods we mentioned, a cam would be a nice addition to consider.
Last edited by wrkdWS6; 04-22-2016 at 07:15 PM.
04-22-2016, 07:54 PM
#8
Race Director
Totally agree, that's craziness IMO. Bypass mod would be real nice, just wish it wasn't so impossible to find someone to do it. I'm thinking a cam would make us both happy.
OP, if you want a little more after the intake and exhaust mods we mentioned, a cam would be a nice addition to consider.
04-22-2016, 09:06 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
The list I did...
Stubby antenna
Air intake (K&N, Blackwing, etc are easy and non-problematic)
Texas Speed headers (with new GMPP wires and Iridium plugs)
Magnaflow X (modified) and cats
Tune including skip shift delete and 10deg lower fan turn on
I sawed my factory shifter shaft down by about 1 1/4", installed a TwistedShifterz **** with deep threads (my factory shifter is tight/notchy, was just a bit long/high)
Fluids; Amsoil Torque Drive in the tranny, severe gear in the rear, Mobil 1 oil & filter (yearly).
Stubby antenna
Air intake (K&N, Blackwing, etc are easy and non-problematic)
Texas Speed headers (with new GMPP wires and Iridium plugs)
Magnaflow X (modified) and cats
Tune including skip shift delete and 10deg lower fan turn on
I sawed my factory shifter shaft down by about 1 1/4", installed a TwistedShifterz **** with deep threads (my factory shifter is tight/notchy, was just a bit long/high)
Fluids; Amsoil Torque Drive in the tranny, severe gear in the rear, Mobil 1 oil & filter (yearly).
Last edited by grantv; 04-22-2016 at 09:07 PM.
04-23-2016, 09:00 AM
#10
Drifting
My mods in chronological order:
LT headers
CAI
4.10 gears
Chuck CoW tune
I decided to go with 4.10's instead of H/C/I because my goal was just to add some usable torque and turn 6th gear into a 'gear', and not "overdrive". The gear installation wasn't cheap; $1800 for the differential alone plus $250 to install it. That included new axle seals. Another reason I chose the gears was because I was already paying for the labor of disassembling the drivetrain (new clutch), and the price of an additional $2G's would be cheaper than the H/C/I (Momo) combination. Gears "alone" would also eliminate any need for me to weigh one shop's recommendation against another's for H/C/I combinations and compatibility.
I am completely pleased with the outcome... the car is 'scary' quick compared to OEM, and I haven't yet had the guts to stomp it from a dig. I'll prolly never do that since this is only a street car and I don't dig at lights. As quick as it is, my curiosity about its' launch capabilities is truly tentative. I don't wanna be in a YouTube video taking a hard left turn as my tires break loose.
I might should have done the 4.10's first (and then I could have skipped the rest [but the CoW tune really helps]), but I didn't wanna pay for the drivetrain labor until the clutch needed replacing.
Everything I've read says 4.10's preclude H/C/I mods later unless you're building a devoted drag car; the lower gearing damn near eliminates 1st-gear traction in a street set up launch and another problem some guys point out is 4th gear (near the end of a 1/4-mile run) runs out early just when you need it.
LT headers
CAI
4.10 gears
Chuck CoW tune
I decided to go with 4.10's instead of H/C/I because my goal was just to add some usable torque and turn 6th gear into a 'gear', and not "overdrive". The gear installation wasn't cheap; $1800 for the differential alone plus $250 to install it. That included new axle seals. Another reason I chose the gears was because I was already paying for the labor of disassembling the drivetrain (new clutch), and the price of an additional $2G's would be cheaper than the H/C/I (Momo) combination. Gears "alone" would also eliminate any need for me to weigh one shop's recommendation against another's for H/C/I combinations and compatibility.
I am completely pleased with the outcome... the car is 'scary' quick compared to OEM, and I haven't yet had the guts to stomp it from a dig. I'll prolly never do that since this is only a street car and I don't dig at lights. As quick as it is, my curiosity about its' launch capabilities is truly tentative. I don't wanna be in a YouTube video taking a hard left turn as my tires break loose.
I might should have done the 4.10's first (and then I could have skipped the rest [but the CoW tune really helps]), but I didn't wanna pay for the drivetrain labor until the clutch needed replacing.
Everything I've read says 4.10's preclude H/C/I mods later unless you're building a devoted drag car; the lower gearing damn near eliminates 1st-gear traction in a street set up launch and another problem some guys point out is 4th gear (near the end of a 1/4-mile run) runs out early just when you need it.
Last edited by dork; 04-23-2016 at 09:05 AM.
04-23-2016, 09:59 AM
#11
Team Owner
Figure out your end goals and go backwards with the modifications to reach them. You will save a lot of money that way.
For example: If you are going to end up with a blower/turbo, don't sink money into any kind of CAI. If you are going to turbo later, don't spend money on headers. If you are going with a blower later, don't add an underdrive pulley now.
Having said all that, basic bolt-ons and a tune will yield a very satisfying car that won't completely overwhelm street tire compounds.
For example: If you are going to end up with a blower/turbo, don't sink money into any kind of CAI. If you are going to turbo later, don't spend money on headers. If you are going with a blower later, don't add an underdrive pulley now.
Having said all that, basic bolt-ons and a tune will yield a very satisfying car that won't completely overwhelm street tire compounds.
04-23-2016, 10:37 AM
#12
Race Director
My mods in chronological order:
LT headers
CAI
4.10 gears
Chuck CoW tune
I decided to go with 4.10's instead of H/C/I because my goal was just to add some usable torque and turn 6th gear into a 'gear', and not "overdrive". The gear installation wasn't cheap; $1800 for the differential alone plus $250 to install it. That included new axle seals. Another reason I chose the gears was because I was already paying for the labor of disassembling the drivetrain (new clutch), and the price of an additional $2G's would be cheaper than the H/C/I (Momo) combination. Gears "alone" would also eliminate any need for me to weigh one shop's recommendation against another's for H/C/I combinations and compatibility.
I am completely pleased with the outcome... the car is 'scary' quick compared to OEM, and I haven't yet had the guts to stomp it from a dig. I'll prolly never do that since this is only a street car and I don't dig at lights. As quick as it is, my curiosity about its' launch capabilities is truly tentative. I don't wanna be in a YouTube video taking a hard left turn as my tires break loose.
I might should have done the 4.10's first (and then I could have skipped the rest [but the CoW tune really helps]), but I didn't wanna pay for the drivetrain labor until the clutch needed replacing.
Everything I've read says 4.10's preclude H/C/I mods later unless you're building a devoted drag car; the lower gearing damn near eliminates 1st-gear traction in a street set up launch and another problem some guys point out is 4th gear (near the end of a 1/4-mile run) runs out early just when you need it.
LT headers
CAI
4.10 gears
Chuck CoW tune
I decided to go with 4.10's instead of H/C/I because my goal was just to add some usable torque and turn 6th gear into a 'gear', and not "overdrive". The gear installation wasn't cheap; $1800 for the differential alone plus $250 to install it. That included new axle seals. Another reason I chose the gears was because I was already paying for the labor of disassembling the drivetrain (new clutch), and the price of an additional $2G's would be cheaper than the H/C/I (Momo) combination. Gears "alone" would also eliminate any need for me to weigh one shop's recommendation against another's for H/C/I combinations and compatibility.
I am completely pleased with the outcome... the car is 'scary' quick compared to OEM, and I haven't yet had the guts to stomp it from a dig. I'll prolly never do that since this is only a street car and I don't dig at lights. As quick as it is, my curiosity about its' launch capabilities is truly tentative. I don't wanna be in a YouTube video taking a hard left turn as my tires break loose.
I might should have done the 4.10's first (and then I could have skipped the rest [but the CoW tune really helps]), but I didn't wanna pay for the drivetrain labor until the clutch needed replacing.
Everything I've read says 4.10's preclude H/C/I mods later unless you're building a devoted drag car; the lower gearing damn near eliminates 1st-gear traction in a street set up launch and another problem some guys point out is 4th gear (near the end of a 1/4-mile run) runs out early just when you need it.
Some go with 3.90's for that reason. Since the z06 trans is already more aggressively geared in 1-3, 4.10's are going to be even more extreme than they would be on a base model. I went from 3:42's to 4:10's in a 97z28 and omg, it felt like a whole different car. No bolt on has a bigger sotp feeling than gears.
.
Last edited by MY03C5Z; 04-23-2016 at 10:38 AM.
04-24-2016, 08:55 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
04-25-2016, 08:11 AM
#16
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04-25-2016, 08:18 AM
#17
Race Director
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simple things to do first: detail, Window tint, lower on stock bolts, battery, fluid change, new floor mats, MGW shirter, shorty antenna, intake, tires, seats, battery tender, car cover.
Decide what your goals are and how deep your pockets are before going crazy w cam, heads, headers etc. You may like it just the way it is w some simple mods versus throwing big $$ at it.
Decide what your goals are and how deep your pockets are before going crazy w cam, heads, headers etc. You may like it just the way it is w some simple mods versus throwing big $$ at it.
04-25-2016, 09:44 AM
#18
Team Owner
simple things to do first: detail, Window tint, lower on stock bolts, battery, fluid change, new floor mats, MGW shirter, shorty antenna, intake, tires, seats, battery tender, car cover.
Decide what your goals are and how deep your pockets are before going crazy w cam, heads, headers etc. You may like it just the way it is w some simple mods versus throwing big $$ at it.
Decide what your goals are and how deep your pockets are before going crazy w cam, heads, headers etc. You may like it just the way it is w some simple mods versus throwing big $$ at it.
Good advice!
04-28-2016, 02:54 PM
#19
