vinceg

yes your right but don't need to go to wal mart

PhiLS1

Does this weight work good for supercharged cars also?

John_B

I'd also like to hear thoughts on this. My car is not a track car, it's just a weekend car but driven hard and raced. I was using amsoil zrod 10w30 and may switch because it's much cheaper and easier to get mobile 1

FASTFATBOY

If you are not using the car for road course duty there is no reason to move away from 5-30 oil.

Z06ufgrad2002

I'd argue this all day long. This is absolutely incorrect. Switching to the 0w40 is more about oil composition rather than simply the weight of the oils. The 0w40 has much higher zinc and phosphorous levels which significantly reduce internal engine wear.

FASTFATBOY

So GM spent a ton of money engineering an engine, Mobil 1 recommended GM an oil and weight based on that engineering and testing, GM tested said oil, put it in the manual for the car....but you say they are wrong?

I run 5-30 in my 188,000 mile Silverado with a 5.3, because there is no need to stray away from what oil weight GM recommended. I run whatever synthetic is on sale, when the oil change minder tells me to change it I change the filter and top it off. The second time the oil change minder tells me to change it I do.

You do what you want, but changing synthetic oil at 3,000 miles is flushing money, you can run conventional oil to 5,000 miles with no issues.

You don't need all that "extra stuff" unless you are tracking the car on a road course. Any 5-30 Synthetic will do fine for 95% of Vette owners, the other 5% beat their cars up.

I was a dealership tech, heavy equipment tech for 12 years, I have a little cred. I've built a few cars here and there.

The engine in a Vette is no different from the one in my truck, but Vette guys seem to think so.

This is a good read, I've posted it before.

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/xs11-i...july-1996.html

furious427

Good read.

Pumba

I am not trying to hijack this thread, but I strongly believe that those of you that are swallowing the "Extended Mileage Oil Change" pitch should know who is driving this change.

Back in the last century a consumer group starting tracking and publishing the Automotive Total Cost of Ownership. The automotive OEMs began feeling pressure to have the lowest TCO for their vehicles. Inside the companies, pressure was put on every engineering group to reduce TCO for their commodity. In the last 15 years, engine engineers gave in to senior management and started extending the number of miles between oil changes. What was once an industry standard of new oil and a new filter every 3,000 miles was extended to 5,000 miles, 7,500 miles, 10,000 miles, 12,000 miles, and in some cases 15,000 miles between changes.

Today's engine engineers, if you asked them over a beer, would disagree with 10,000+ miles between changes.

Since 2004, I too have used Blackstone Laboratories for an annual oil analysis. Their primary customers are looking to reduce their fleet's operating costs, so they will recommend ways for you to extend your oil usage. They do not offer you suggestions on what is the absolute best oil, filter, or change interval for premium engine life and power.

Below I have listed my Blackstone Labs oil analysis from my last oil change at 4,000 miles versus RPatrick's 12,000 mile change. Please notice the differences in IRON, COPPER, PHOSPHORUS, and ZINC. These are key indicators of wear. Also notice that RPatrick did not pay Blackstone for a TBN analysis. TBN is a necessary indicator of remaining oil life. It is worth the extra money to find out what your oil's TBN is.


---------------- Pumba ---- RPatrick
ALUMINUM -------- 3 ---------- 3
CHROMIUM ------- 0 ---------- 1
IRON -------------- 6 --------- 22
COPPER ----------- 5 --------- 39
LEAD -------------- 2 ---------- 8
TIN ---------------- 0 ---------- 0
MOLYBDENUM - 660 --------- 96
NICKEL ------------ 1 ---------- 1
MANGANESE ------ 0 --------- 0
SIILVER ----------- 0 ---------- 0
TITANIUM --------- 0 ---------- 0
POTASSIUM ------- 3 ---------- 3
BORON ---------- 108 ------- 124
SIILICON --------- 19 ---------- 9
SODIUM ---------- 16 ---------- 9
CALCIUM ------- 3340 ----- 3081
MAGNESIUM ------ 15 -------- 38
PHOSPHORUS -- 1468 ------ 821
ZINC ------------ 1596 ----- 1072
BARIUM --------------0 --------- 0


SUS Vis- 210F -- 74.1 ------ 75.0
cSt Vis - 100C -- 14.02 ---- 14.26
Flashpoint F ------ 380 ------- 395
FUEL % ------------ TR ------ <0.5
AntiFreeze % ------ 0.0 ------- 0.0
Water % ----------- 0.0 ------- 0.0
Insolules % -------- 0.0 ------- 0.2
TBN ----------------- 8.3 -------- ?

If you are driven by lowering your oil/filter costs, use extended oil and filter change intervals.

But, if you want the very best power and longest life of your engine, use Grade V synthetic oils, Synthetic element oil filters, and change your oil and filter(s) more frequently.

PhiLS1

What are synthetic V oils, how do you find out and the same pertains to synthetic filters? Ive never heard of synthetic filters. I always use castrol synthetic oil or mobil one and bosch or mobil one filters.

Pumba

There are two commonly available Group V synthetic oils in the United States - Red Line, and I use their 0W40 oil, and MOTUL. Group V synthetics were developed for jet aircraft engines, and are the only oils that will survive the engine's duty cycle.

Most oil filters use paper or cellulose elements. Royal Purple filters use a synthetic filter element.
-

Nasbluec5

I run German castrol 0-30 personally. Not sure why you WOULDNT want a thinner oil on start up, because you know a higher oil volume being pumped through the motor when cold is a bad thing.

PhiLS1

Thanks for the info!

Reggie Dunlop

Dude - you are so full of sheyt yer eyes are brown. ....and you are hijacking this thread.

fisher auto

I've been using the Royal Purple HPS that has zinc but was told by a reliable source it's not so good! But said Mobil one is still one of the best oils!!! Will most likely switch to 0W40 M1...

FASTFATBOY

One of, if not THE best oils out there now and has been for a while is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.

If it was more readily available over the counter that's what I'd be running as I track this car.

I would only run 0-40 if I was in a year round warm climate IE mild winters.