[Z06] best mild cam for sound & longevity
10-01-2016, 12:53 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
best mild cam for sound & longevity
Looking for a little bit of lope on my almost-all stock '04 Z06. It's got a mild tune and Vararam on it now. Car has about 40k miles.
Just looking just for great sound & lope fun (but not too much), don't care about power adding, as I'm more than happy with the car now. Most concerned about longevity and no emission, electronics or other related issues.
Can fellow CF pals recommend a cam spec that would meet this general criteria? What else would I need to be concerned about getting done in conjunction with cam modification?
Am meeting with a reputable tuning shop to discuss this also, but I'd like to get a little educated first. Thanks for any tips.
Just looking just for great sound & lope fun (but not too much), don't care about power adding, as I'm more than happy with the car now. Most concerned about longevity and no emission, electronics or other related issues.
Can fellow CF pals recommend a cam spec that would meet this general criteria? What else would I need to be concerned about getting done in conjunction with cam modification?
Am meeting with a reputable tuning shop to discuss this also, but I'd like to get a little educated first. Thanks for any tips.
Last edited by SLO VETTE; 10-01-2016 at 12:54 PM.
10-01-2016, 04:11 PM
#2
Since longevity is a concern I would recommend a cam that is on milder lobes. Some of the aggressive cam lobes being used these days will wear out valve springs every say 20k miles so that's something to be aware of. If you want some lope then you will want something with a little overlap to it. However, too much overlap will negatively affect driveability and emissions so that's another thing to keep in mind. Since you have the stock manifolds and h-pipe I would personally opt for something that has an appropriate intake and exhaust duration split that takes the exhaust restriction into account. I would speak with some known LS cam gurus to see what they can set you up with to achieve your goals. Some names that come to mind would be Ed Curtis at FTI, Martin Smallwood, Tony Mamo, Brian Tooley, Geoff at EPS, Pat G.
In addition to the cam you will also need/I would suggest considering:
-Valve springs (I would suggest a kit that includes retainers, locks, seals. Springs must be appropriate for selected camshaft)
-Pushrods (Must be appropriate length)
-Timing chain upgrade such as the LS2 chain (Not mandatory but a good idea. You will probably also need a dampener)
-Trunion upgrade kit for your stock rockers (Not mandatory but a good idea)
-UD pulley + belts (Not mandatory but something to consider while you are there)
-Dyno tune
-Gaskets
-Fluids
-LT Headers w/ X-Pipe (If you want to optimize the sound and power you get from the cam swap)
Hopefully I am not missing anything but that should give you a general idea.
In addition to the cam you will also need/I would suggest considering:
-Valve springs (I would suggest a kit that includes retainers, locks, seals. Springs must be appropriate for selected camshaft)
-Pushrods (Must be appropriate length)
-Timing chain upgrade such as the LS2 chain (Not mandatory but a good idea. You will probably also need a dampener)
-Trunion upgrade kit for your stock rockers (Not mandatory but a good idea)
-UD pulley + belts (Not mandatory but something to consider while you are there)
-Dyno tune
-Gaskets
-Fluids
-LT Headers w/ X-Pipe (If you want to optimize the sound and power you get from the cam swap)
Hopefully I am not missing anything but that should give you a general idea.
Last edited by wrkdWS6; 10-01-2016 at 04:30 PM.
10-01-2016, 08:39 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Since longevity is a concern I would recommend a cam that is on milder lobes. Some of the aggressive cam lobes being used these days will wear out valve springs every say 20k miles so that's something to be aware of. If you want some lope then you will want something with a little overlap to it. However, too much overlap will negatively affect driveability and emissions so that's another thing to keep in mind. Since you have the stock manifolds and h-pipe I would personally opt for something that has an appropriate intake and exhaust duration split that takes the exhaust restriction into account. I would speak with some known LS cam gurus to see what they can set you up with to achieve your goals. Some names that come to mind would be Ed Curtis at FTI, Martin Smallwood, Tony Mamo, Brian Tooley, Geoff at EPS, Pat G.
In addition to the cam you will also need/I would suggest considering:
-Valve springs (I would suggest a kit that includes retainers, locks, seals. Springs must be appropriate for selected camshaft)
-Pushrods (Must be appropriate length)
-Timing chain upgrade such as the LS2 chain (Not mandatory but a good idea. You will probably also need a dampener)
-Trunion upgrade kit for your stock rockers (Not mandatory but a good idea)
-UD pulley + belts (Not mandatory but something to consider while you are there)
-Dyno tune
-Gaskets
-Fluids
-LT Headers w/ X-Pipe (If you want to optimize the sound and power you get from the cam swap)
Hopefully I am not missing anything but that should give you a general idea.
In addition to the cam you will also need/I would suggest considering:
-Valve springs (I would suggest a kit that includes retainers, locks, seals. Springs must be appropriate for selected camshaft)
-Pushrods (Must be appropriate length)
-Timing chain upgrade such as the LS2 chain (Not mandatory but a good idea. You will probably also need a dampener)
-Trunion upgrade kit for your stock rockers (Not mandatory but a good idea)
-UD pulley + belts (Not mandatory but something to consider while you are there)
-Dyno tune
-Gaskets
-Fluids
-LT Headers w/ X-Pipe (If you want to optimize the sound and power you get from the cam swap)
Hopefully I am not missing anything but that should give you a general idea.
10-01-2016, 09:47 PM
#5
Banned Scam/Spammer
Member Since: May 2007
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Sound rule of thumb almost regardless of duration and lift, the Lobe Seperation Angle has the most effect on audible lope. Duration isn't recommended much past 230 on stock cubes. Makes the low end soggier and has bucking and surge at low rpm around parking lots. Shorter duration is snappier.
114LSA = nice burble at idle and has a nice yowl through the rpm range.
113LSA = sounds like a gallop, not quite a solid chop
112LSA = choppy and old school, advantage of lower LSA is boosted midrange.
My cam? I forgot the exact specs but its a Comp 224/228 .588/.588 114LSA.
With headers it's got a mellow personality and sounds like its modified but to the layman they might think its factory. 114 works well with a blower too.
114LSA = nice burble at idle and has a nice yowl through the rpm range.
113LSA = sounds like a gallop, not quite a solid chop
112LSA = choppy and old school, advantage of lower LSA is boosted midrange.
My cam? I forgot the exact specs but its a Comp 224/228 .588/.588 114LSA.
With headers it's got a mellow personality and sounds like its modified but to the layman they might think its factory. 114 works well with a blower too.
10-02-2016, 12:06 AM
#6
Sound rule of thumb almost regardless of duration and lift, the Lobe Seperation Angle has the most effect on audible lope. Duration isn't recommended much past 230 on stock cubes. Makes the low end soggier and has bucking and surge at low rpm around parking lots. Shorter duration is snappier.
114LSA = nice burble at idle and has a nice yowl through the rpm range.
113LSA = sounds like a gallop, not quite a solid chop
112LSA = choppy and old school, advantage of lower LSA is boosted midrange.
My cam? I forgot the exact specs but its a Comp 224/228 .588/.588 114LSA.
With headers it's got a mellow personality and sounds like its modified but to the layman they might think its factory. 114 works well with a blower too.
114LSA = nice burble at idle and has a nice yowl through the rpm range.
113LSA = sounds like a gallop, not quite a solid chop
112LSA = choppy and old school, advantage of lower LSA is boosted midrange.
My cam? I forgot the exact specs but its a Comp 224/228 .588/.588 114LSA.
With headers it's got a mellow personality and sounds like its modified but to the layman they might think its factory. 114 works well with a blower too.
I like this stuff so for anyone interested...(Intake duration + Exhaust duration / 2) - (LSA x 2) = Amount of overlap. The greater this number, the more chop or rougher the idle will be.
10-05-2016, 01:27 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
I can't stress enough to you to go to guys like Arun, Pat G, Brian Tooley, etc.
I went against these big shops and speced my own cam in my C6. Car trapped 149+ on a Novi 1500 in full street trim with no drag setup, just heavier Fbody wheels out back with 17 inch drag radials and a cage. No trailer, and hurt F series blower car feelings. It was on a 118 LSA and 12 pounds of boost.
I went against these big shops and speced my own cam in my C6. Car trapped 149+ on a Novi 1500 in full street trim with no drag setup, just heavier Fbody wheels out back with 17 inch drag radials and a cage. No trailer, and hurt F series blower car feelings. It was on a 118 LSA and 12 pounds of boost.
10-05-2016, 05:43 PM
#10
Drifting
I can't stress enough to you to go to guys like Arun, Pat G, Brian Tooley, etc. I went against these big shops and speced my own cam in my C6. Car trapped 149+ on a Novi 1500 in full street trim with no drag setup, just heavier Fbody wheels out back with 17 inch drag radials and a cage. No trailer, and hurt F series blower car feelings. It was on a 118 LSA and 12 pounds of boost.
10-05-2016, 06:43 PM
#11
Instructor
Your tuner will make and break your drivability. LSA has absolutely nothing to do with sound please for the love of god do not go by that, LSA is a determination of desired valve events not how you want your cam to sound. Talk to Ed Curtis if you want the most detailed cam sheet, who knows, based on your desires your camshaft might be ground on a 110 LSA, but the man is a walking messiah for valve train information, same with Martin Smallwood and Brian Tooley, all can set you up with perfectly streetable (again, this will ALL depend on your tuners ability) camshaft setup.
10-05-2016, 08:12 PM
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
Turns out I'm not going with a cam. Gonna do some other tinkering. All the really smart advice here was similarly echoed by the tuner. He could've easily sold me on a lot more stuff (and he's fully capable of doing the install) and made 2-3x what it's gonna cost me, but he didn't. Instead, talked me out of a few things I thought I wanted, said go smartly step by step and do things right and over time that matches my driving preferences, budget and longevity concerns.
10-05-2016, 08:26 PM
#13
Drifting
Turns out I'm not going with a cam. Gonna do some other tinkering. All the really smart advice here was similarly echoed by the tuner. He could've easily sold me on a lot more stuff (and he's fully capable of doing the install) and made 2-3x what it's gonna cost me, but he didn't. Instead, talked me out of a few things I thought I wanted, said go smartly step by step and do things right and over time that matches my driving preferences, budget and longevity concerns.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-one-only.html
10-06-2016, 07:24 AM
#14
Race Director
Thread Starter
Hah! Nope. But....am laying the foundation for something like that down the line.
Andy's a 1st class operation, I drove my Z almost literally from the dealer to his shop (a several hundred mile trip) for its 1st oil change, tuning & a dyno run (was living in CA at the time, am now on east coat). He worked on my prior C5 also.
Andy's a 1st class operation, I drove my Z almost literally from the dealer to his shop (a several hundred mile trip) for its 1st oil change, tuning & a dyno run (was living in CA at the time, am now on east coat). He worked on my prior C5 also.
I hope by other "tinkering" you mean this......
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-one-only.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-one-only.html
Last edited by SLO VETTE; 10-06-2016 at 07:25 AM.
10-06-2016, 11:43 AM
#15
Hah! Nope. But....am laying the foundation for something like that down the line.
Andy's a 1st class operation, I drove my Z almost literally from the dealer to his shop (a several hundred mile trip) for its 1st oil change, tuning & a dyno run (was living in CA at the time, am now on east coat). He worked on my prior C5 also.
Andy's a 1st class operation, I drove my Z almost literally from the dealer to his shop (a several hundred mile trip) for its 1st oil change, tuning & a dyno run (was living in CA at the time, am now on east coat). He worked on my prior C5 also.
From your handle, I presume you lived in San Luis Obispo?
Shakey
10-06-2016, 01:51 PM
#17
I used to live in Grover City and Shell Beach many moons ago. I worked at Diablo Canyon PP. I spent many nights at The Graduate in SLO...........
Shakey
Shakey
10-06-2016, 02:45 PM
#18
Race Director
Thread Starter
end of an era at diablo. pretty dumb thing to shut down, but the political winds there are, well.....full of some funny smelling smoke. 
10-06-2016, 03:14 PM
#19
10-06-2016, 04:57 PM
#20
Race Director
Thread Starter
gov. brown's direktorate will soon mandate that 15% of the state's power generation is to come from pixie dust.
Last edited by SLO VETTE; 10-06-2016 at 04:58 PM.