[Z06] Replaced valve springs
10-23-2016, 07:49 PM
#1
Replaced valve springs
This past weekend I replaced the valve springs for my first time using the trickflo compressor and the compressor hose tool to keep the valves up. When I finished up and turned her over she idled really well, up until the temp got to about 200 and then it started to idle rough and I got misfire code (P0300) went back and check all my connections and everything looked good. Has this happened to anyone else?
10-23-2016, 08:01 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
New wires?
10-23-2016, 08:04 PM
#3
Originally Posted by grantv
New wires?
I'm going to go by XL parts tomorrow and get the OEM AC Delco wires and see if that maybe fixes it? If not then it could be a bad coil pack I'm guessing. I just wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else.
10-23-2016, 08:36 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Easy to have an issue pulling wires... my guess.
10-25-2016, 10:01 AM
#6
Alright, figured out my problem. A couple of the rocker arm bolts came loose. I was told by a guy I knows who's been a mechanic for 30+ years that when you add any attachment you generally should add 1-2 lbs. Because I used a 1/2-3/8 reducer and a 10in extension I went back and added 3 more lbs, so I went from 22 to 25 ft lbs and she runs like a champ!
10-25-2016, 09:49 PM
#7
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Alright, figured out my problem. A couple of the rocker arm bolts came loose. I was told by a guy I knows who's been a mechanic for 30+ years that when you add any attachment you generally should add 1-2 lbs. Because I used a 1/2-3/8 reducer and a 10in extension I went back and added 3 more lbs, so I went from 22 to 25 ft lbs and she runs like a champ!
10-25-2016, 09:52 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Zeeb
Well I know your covers are back on, but this just doesn't sound right to me. The reducer tells me that you are using a 1/2" drive torque wrench. If it's a big honking wrench and 22 lb. ft. is at the bottom of the scale, and if it's not a pro quality wrench on top of that, the accuracy could be way off. No way your bolts should have come loose if you were just off by a couple of lb. ft. Best to use a quality 3/8 drive tq wrench with the tq setting well into the scale, and to torque each bolt with the lifter on the cam base circle. Some will argue the base circle piece, but that's how GM recommends doing it. Besides it's easy enough to do. If I were you I would check my torque wrench, and if it's not accurate, pull the covers....
10-26-2016, 06:07 PM
#10
Race Director
Well I know your covers are back on, but this just doesn't sound right to me. The reducer tells me that you are using a 1/2" drive torque wrench. If it's a big honking wrench and 22 lb. ft. is at the bottom of the scale, and if it's not a pro quality wrench on top of that, the accuracy could be way off. No way your bolts should have come loose if you were just off by a couple of lb. ft. Best to use a quality 3/8 drive tq wrench with the tq setting well into the scale, and to torque each bolt with the lifter on the cam base circle. Some will argue the base circle piece, but that's how GM recommends doing it. Besides it's easy enough to do. If I were you I would check my torque wrench, and if it's not accurate, pull the covers....
it's not common but happens fairly often on flywheels where you have some movement that screws with the torque reading. 10 miles down the road you hear a terrible rattle
10-26-2016, 09:27 PM
#11
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Sounds like you'll be fine, JD. For good measure, I still feel it's a good idea to torque the rockers with the springs unloaded. I used my remote starter switch which made rolling the engine to the right points very easy, of course. Good time to buy one if you don't have one already. For any cyl: Roll engine until exhaust lifter starts to move up - tq intake. Roll engine until intake lifter has come to full lift then is about half way back down - tq exhaust.
This is the method I've always used to position the lifters on my old school SBC to adjust pre-load.
This is the method I've always used to position the lifters on my old school SBC to adjust pre-load.
10-27-2016, 11:16 AM
#13
For good measure, I still feel it's a good idea to torque the rockers with the springs unloaded. I used my remote starter switch which made rolling the engine to the right points very easy, For any cyl: Roll engine until exhaust lifter starts to move up - tq intake. Roll engine until intake lifter has come to full lift then is about half way back down - tq exhaust.
This is the method I've always used to position the lifters on my old school SBC to adjust pre-load.
This is the method I've always used to position the lifters on my old school SBC to adjust pre-load.
I do not have a remote starter switch. Can I roll the engine by bumping the key? He do you prevent the engine from actually starting?
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hanssl (10-27-2016)
10-27-2016, 03:54 PM
#17
Race Director
10-28-2016, 08:53 AM
#18
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Hanssl - you should buy an inexpensive remote starter switch. Drive up your ramps - slip under the car with the starter switch alligator clip held with long reach pliers, and clip it on to your starter solenoid.
10-29-2016, 02:34 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
Please forgive my lack of knowledge here. I am planning a spring swap but I did not know the rocker had to be torqued with the spring unloaded.
I do not have a remote starter switch. Can I roll the engine by bumping the key? He do you prevent the engine from actually starting?
I do not have a remote starter switch. Can I roll the engine by bumping the key? He do you prevent the engine from actually starting?
Use an offset wrench on the crank bolt.
Last edited by rbartick; 10-29-2016 at 09:20 AM.
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hanssl (10-31-2016)