DT

GETTING IN/AROUND/UNDER YOUR VETTE

You want to make the install as safe as possible so definitely use ramps if you can - I have a set of Rhino ramps that I started with, but it was a little too cramped, especially during the middle section. I would up jacking the front with my 3 ton floor jack with a 2x4 across the puck, and added _two_ jack stands.

I did not jack up the rear - you can reach everything with a little stretch! I weigh almost 400 lbs and I didn't have any problems sliding under the car and reaching the mid and rear bolts.

Here's a "diagram" of the parts in the order they install, with the names I'm using to get a sense of what goes where. Everything between the two [] blocks is supplied by Dynotech:

[factory heads] -> Headers -> Cats (w/ 02 bungs) -> Mid-pipes (w/ 02 bungs) -> Rear/X-pipes -> [factory exhaust]

INSTALL KIT BREAKDOWN

The items in the install kit are not specifically labeled, though pretty self-explanatory (I think a parts ID sheet at the beginning of the manual would be really helpful). Here's a break-down of the blister packs, parts in the kit, where they go and also what fastners/gaskets need to be reused (which was not indicated).

1 Long package with header gasket, rear section-to-exhaust gaskets and header bolts

4 Small clear packages with a bracket and 2/ea nuts - these are "back" fasteners for the 4 band clamps

4 Band clamps - used on the outlet side of the cats, and outlet side of the mid pipes

1 Package with 2 donut gaskets, 4 allen bolts, 4 nuts - these are for the colelctor-to-cat connections

1 Package 4 washers, 1 bracket, 4 large bolts, 4 large nuts, 2 smaller bolts and nuts - this one is a tiny bit confusing - the bracket is for the lower flange/header connection to the bell housing - I used the 2 smaller bolts/2 nuts, 4 washers to bolt the header flanges to the bracket. The 4 larger bolts/4 nuts are for the rear-pipes to factory exhaust (the old pipes were threaded so just bolts, the new x-pipe required bolts/nuts.

OEM INSTALL PARTS REUSED

OK, so here my list of parts that were not supplied that you need to RE-use:

Bellhousing bolts 2/ea - these come out of the front oem intermediate pipe(s) - they are reused to secure the supplied bracket to the bellhousing.

Rear spring hanger bolts 2/ea - these come out of the rear oem pipe, are reused to hang the new rear-pipe.

Air tube bolts 4/ea - out of the air tube flange connector on each side, reused to secure the airtubes back to the new headers.

Air tube gaskets 2/ea - the directions actually seem to indicate new ones are supplied, but I went through everything 3 times (even the wifey did), and I even went back and looked at all pics, none. So don't destry these, *or* pick up some fresh ones! I may actually replace mine with new ones, but for now I reused.

INSTALL NOTES

I installed both sides from the top - the instructions say passenger from the top, drivers side from the bottom, but you'd need like 35" of clearance, and that wasn't happening without a lift.

On the passenger side you do need to remove the valve cover for a little more clearnance, *however* I did not unbolt/loosen or even touch the starter. There's plenty of room on the P side, the header almost just fell into place. You turn it up, collector facing down and the primaries facing over the motor. Slide it down as far as you can, then slowly twist and ease in it and down.

The drivers side proved to me a quite a bit tricker - but here's what you do: first, on day one I mentioned about removing the Y fitting that bolts up to the D side airtube, and removing it from way back where it connects close to the firewall. Do this!, and then move the remaining fittings as far out of the way of the header install area as possible. I didn't do this at first, and it just got in the way. Again, pull the valve cover for a tiny bit more "twist room" (see warning below). OK, this is the semi-spooky part - per another members install (actually only _after_ I determined, no way without doing this step, and believe me, I tried). You need to unbolt the steering shaft where it connects to the steering rack. there's a black plastic cone cover that's secured with a band clamp, loosen, and get it totally out of the way. Push the steering shaft against the fender, this gives you another 1-2" good inches of clearance (and don't we all want another 1-2"...)

Same story, collector in and down, primaries over the heads, in twist, fudge, push, etc., being careful not to wreck anything. FYI, I had considered pre-installing the 02's - don't, they'll be in the way (and they're very easy to get to, since they're much further downstream on the new parts). I did pre-install the extensions to the harnesses on the car,left them dangling down, which was probably easier than later. Also, pull/remove any existing plastic wire mounts - it's easy with everything removed, and you won't be using them (you'll find better mounting locations later).

I also pulled the front bolt of the fitting that connects to the oil filter, and found another 1/8-1/4" of room! In returning the steering bolt (which is a pretty serious bolt, considering if it came loose!!) I coulnd't find any TQ specs, so I pulled it to a good 50-60lbs (I sort of gauged the break-loose point by using the tq wrench to remove). I also hosed it down with _green_ locktite, which is was pretty covered with then I removed it. So it's probably not going anywhere. I may actually run a safety wire around it just to make triple sure it doesn't budge!

Another tip: and this is especially helpful if you haven't enlisted another set of hands - after you get the headers in, and kind of positioned, very loosely bolt up the bell housing bracket, and the headers flanged. This really helps to support the weight while you're getting the header bolts started. Otherwise, you're at a leveraging disadvantage, and it's easy to put too much weight on the bolts while you're starting them (which should be done lightly by hand, remember, soft aluminum heads!)

On the cats, mid-pipes and rear pipes, all pretty simple. I pre-installed the rear 02's in the mid-pipes since they don't really get banged around. Mine *still* had my tape labels on them which I left on until I got things bolted up, heheheh. Remember also from my Day 1, I completely removed the rear 02's harnesses and all - this made removing easier, installing easier, and since you have to position the wires different, you wind up relocating the little clips anyway!

The mid pipes fit _into_ the outlet side of the cats, and _into_ the inlet side of the X-pipe. Orientation on the mid pipes: not a right and left, but the 02 bungs are about at 1/3 the length, so there's a long section then bung then short section. The short section goes towards the front of the car, long to the rear. It's actually labled outlet (which points to the rear), but just in case you've pulled your stickers. BTW,I removed all the stickers from all the pipes, and cleaned them with Goo-Gone just so there wouldn't be any smoking/roasting paper.


A word on the band clamps: For the middle 2, make sure the bolts go on from the sides (nuts to the middle) - on the rear 2, position the bolts pointing to the outside (nuts on the outside). Here's why: you can twist the middles to the center for complete clearance and the rears to the outside gap! I believe there's two of each "side" clamp-wise, just get the right two pairs together, I think I have a picture snapped of this.

On the donut gaskets, the directions say "install in the cats" - it's much easier to slide them into the collectors first, then gently push them down (once they're started you can even gently rubber mallet then down flush). If you put them on the cats first, they're harder to line up, and they're very soft and looks like easy to damage!

Right after you get the headers snugged up, is a great time to re-install your plugs - everything is totally out of the way, the drivers side air tube is *really* in the way you reinstall it first. Speaking of which, air tube on the passenger side during the reinstall just needs to be manhandled - I used a breakerbar as a lever, and bent it up and out and down and got a pretty good match to the airtube fitting, then just ran it down nice and snug.


WARNING!

A serious *warning* - be VERY careful of the edges of the head, exposed without the valve cover. They are _razor_ sharp - as soon as you get the header in/past the head, immediately put the VC back on, it will spare your hands and keep oil out of the equation (and contaminants out of the motor). Don't ask how I know about how sharp the edges are (my life as a hand model is destroyed...heheheh).

WOOHOO!!

That's about it - if I think of any other install tips, tricks, trap, etc., I'll post back into this thread. I meant to take more pictures in process, but I was a little gunked up. Install time end-to-end was about 9-10 hours, but I was really poking along, taking pics, cleaning up as I went, taking _long_ breaks etc. Also, my car is a 2003 Z06, so YMMV as to install particulars.

I have had -zero- codes, the car pulls incredibly strong (my only other performance mod is a Blackwing with the cold air cover). It sounds amazing, very progressive sound, near stock at cruise, no drone - with cats there's zero gas smell. At WOT it's insane - the car winds up and down faster too like it's breathing much more efficiently. I'm planning on a couple of other small bolt ons then I'm going to a tuner for a good dial in and some dyno numbers. Ummm, if anyone was wondering, I'm not 400lbs :D

NJ99FRC

Those look as good if not better then the LGM system... but JMO :cheers:

pk2401

Nice looking set up there.
Wow that is one big wound you have there. :jester

Z06ufgrad2002

In the 7th pic it looks like the heat shield on the plug rests up against the header. Is this the case or is it just the angle of the picture?
BTW great write up :cheers:

DT

I wound up having a bunch of additional dings on _me_ before it was all over, heheheh, that was just "first blood" :lol: I went through a whole tube of Neosporin.

Yeah, the construction and kit packaging seems to be as good as any product on the market and like several knowledgable people have said, there's not going to be that much variation in all the LT designs, maybe a little more low end from long-er-ish setups. The price, packaging, construction was all right on the mark with the Dynotech product, so I went for it!

No it's not touching, and there seems to be pretty decent room between the primaries and all plugs/insulators/wires. I mean not _lots_ of room, but I can't image there being much on any of the LT products.
Where the 02 wires make the corner and turn up is very tight - hopefully not as much radiant heat a little further downstream. I might check with Jegs or Summit and see if there's some bult insulator tubing I can buy.

Seeya -

DT

4N EATER

All i kept wondering the whole thread was, "400 lbs WTF!!!!!!!!!!?????" :eek:

Nice mod, and thanks for the tips. :thumbs:

slong

Nice pic's. :smiliedrool:

Airwolf

Great write up. Very well done on what looks like a nice product.
One quick question, what size pipes are the x-pipe and exhaust? 2.5", 2.75" or 3"?
Thanks.

Cobra4B

Headers rock :smiliedrool:

DT

Howdy Airwolf -

Sorry, I didn't have this thread on auto-post-alert so I forgot about it!

The Supermaxx system (from my understanding) is 1.75" primaries, 3" collector, 3" on the inlet side of the cats, and 2.5" on the outlet side of the cats all the way to where it meets up to the OEM exhaust (which is 2.5").

The X section is massive, there's a good 3-4" of shared pipe at the cross over.

There was an informative post from Dynatech that indicated they were very specific in their design of all the pipe diameters to optimize the performance for stock displacement motors (even those with some h and/or c work).

I'm waiting to get a tuning solution squared away, then I'll get some dyno time!

Seeya -

DT

RyanC7

Those are thick header flanges... what size is that? They look lik 1/2 in the pic...

DT

Hey Ryan -

They're advertised as a 3/8" flange, but when I measured them before the install (from several points) the seemed like a "big" 3/8" or much more like a 13/32" - very meaty for sure! And really high quality welds, with clean openings at the exahust ports.

DT

EFI-1

Great write up DT. Thanks for the info! :cheers: