Mike in IA

My FOB will not let me open the hatch by walking up to the rear and pushing the rubber membrane switch. Pushing the "hatch" button on the FOB will open it, and of course using the metal key or the inside dash button will do it. It does not appear to be an antenna problem, since I can walk up to the car with FOB #2 in my pocket and pop the hatch. I have several keys on my FOB #1 ring, but even when I hold the FOB out separate near the hatch, it won't work. (I push it many times.) Doing various combinations of hitting the lock/unlock FOB buttons does not help. I don't think that the FOB battery is the problem either, since I have no problem with the doors unlocking when keeping the ring in my pocket. This condition just started two days ago, after four months of trouble-free operation.

Do you think I should retrain FOB #1 as per the owners manual for adding a third FOB? The car is going in to the dealer tomorrow for another matter anyway. I just thought that forum members would have a lot more experience than my dealer.

Any comments or ideas? TIA

Vette_DD

Take FOB #1 completely off the ring and try it by itself. If it still won't open, get your dealer to look at it.

anothercrisis

The FOB could be doing its job. It could be the wafer switch is bad.

Jim

fred oltmanns

I saw another thread that said the hatch switch was bad

Violet

it's the little "membrane switch", NOT the FOB. everyone's... (ok, not everyone but a lot) have/has failed.... ours included.

Hoonose

Mine works. At least a few others here in town work.

You have to keep in mind that just a few complaints here tend to stand out. People without complaints don't complain or post nearly as much!
There's a great bias on these forums that may convince some readers that these problem are more pervasive than they really are.

Maybe a poll is in order...

Violet

lol, OMG.. not... a POLL!


seriously though, i realize not every single one has (or will) fails.. hence my "Ok not everyone , but a lot" disclaimer.

anyway... back to the original poster.. it's the switch, not the FOB.

Mike in IA

Just got done trying it with the FOB off of the key ring & it worked. Maybe it started acting up this weekend because I was out of town and decided to put the metal key on the ring to carry with me (had it on a second interlocking ring). Too much shielding metal??!

If the switch was bad, then why would FOB #2 work? It does not seem to be random - #2 always works, #1 does not (starting last weekend), but #1 does work for the doors.
Problem solved for now. Must keep pocket fairly empty.

Now on to dealer for the other problem - brake line leak of some kind. Was at driving school last weekend. Did four sessions on the track & had a blast - tremendous grip in the corners and acceleration to the moon. Then coming off the track at the end of the day, had smoke coming from under the hood - brake fluid on exhaust manifold or pipe. Master cyl. reservoir was down some. Will investigate further!

Otherwise it has been an awsome 4000 miles of trouble-free motoring. Have had none of the other problems reported on this forum.

Thanks for the replies.

Hoonose

Hope you don't have aftermarket headers. There have been posts of them burning through brake lines.

Vette_DD

You're welcome. Some responders pulled my usual trick & didn't read the original post closely enough on the subject of the hatch release.

Violet

*cough*Me*cough* LOL as i love to say... RIF.

Reading is Fundamental. excuse me while i skulk back off into my corner now.

Vet

What, another brake failure??? Has anyone yet posted exactly WHAT is failing in the brake system and why??? A hose, a hard line? Is it getting burned, bent or just failing on its own? Is it the front or rear reservoir that is going down?

This sounds like something that should be of great concern to all C6 owners. Knowing exactly what is failing might allow for some preventitive measures. If I missed a post on this, please post a link. Not to sound negative, but it seems we continuously move from one C6 "syndrome" to the next. Was hoping the syndromes would die down by now. Oh well...

Even though modern cars have a dual master cylinder, losing one can still result in a serious accident. I once lost a rear reservoir unexpectedly while needing to make a quick stop... though I still had a bit of stopping power due to the remaining reservoir, the sudden dropped pedal caught me by surprise and I wound up stopping well past the point I wanted to stop at. If a pedestrian had been at that spot, it could have resulted in serious injury.

But, when I lost my rear reservoir, it was on a $300 twenty year old car with almost 200k NY miles on it... the rear brake line had rotted and burst... ok, not too unusual considering the state of the car. But I wouldn't expect this from a brand new $60k world-class sports car.

Another time lost a front reservoir on the highway... master cylinder failed. Try stopping an old Caprice station wagon doing 70 mph with ONLY the rear brakes, especially when you don't expect a brake failure. I locked the rears and skidded for what seemed like a whole mile before that thing even began to slow down... was VERY lucky nothing was in the way. I learned then and there how important front brakes are, and how little rear brakes contribute. The fronts apparently do 80% of the stopping.

Chevy, please fix this C6! The car can do everything short of baking cakes but yet it can't stop.