Fixing Rusty Rotors & Hubs
#1
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'09
Fixing Rusty Rotors & Hubs
I've read various ideas which sounded okay, but did they work or did the rust return?
What about Rustoleum Bar-B-Q paint made for painting grills? Heard that the Duplicolor Caliper paint burns off the "rotor ring" so maybe the Rustoleum would not work either.
Zinc coating a permanent fix? Any other DIY ideas? I would like to make this a winter project.
What about Rustoleum Bar-B-Q paint made for painting grills? Heard that the Duplicolor Caliper paint burns off the "rotor ring" so maybe the Rustoleum would not work either.
Zinc coating a permanent fix? Any other DIY ideas? I would like to make this a winter project.
#2
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08
Originally Posted by PaBlueCoupe
I've read various ideas which sounded okay, but did they work or did the rust return?
What about Rustoleum Bar-B-Q paint made for painting grills? Heard that the Duplicolor Caliper paint burns off the "rotor ring" so maybe the Rustoleum would not work either.
Zinc coating a permanent fix? Any other DIY ideas? I would like to make this a winter project.
What about Rustoleum Bar-B-Q paint made for painting grills? Heard that the Duplicolor Caliper paint burns off the "rotor ring" so maybe the Rustoleum would not work either.
Zinc coating a permanent fix? Any other DIY ideas? I would like to make this a winter project.
#5
Melting Slicks
This is a relatively easy one. (Hi David-did you go to the tune today in Brandon? I just flew in from Augusta today, sorry, I couldn't make it.)
First of all, jack up the car and remove either the 2 front or 2 rear wheels at one time so you at least paint half the wheels at one time; then you need to sand of any rust (and you should use oh, say sandpaper with a grit of 220 or 400-depending on the amount of rust) that may have accumulated on the edge of the rotors where the vents are AND do the same to the "hats" of the rotors(the area from where the wheel studs are down to the edge of the brake pad area is(i.e. where the shiney part of the rotor begins around the hub).
Secondly, wipe off the dust from the sanding you've just done.
Third, here's the fun part: tape off using masking tape the whole side of the rotor's braking surface facing you and the caliper too, and anywhere else in the wheel well so no overspray gets on anything-including the floor just beneath the rotor.
Fourth, pick a color you want to spray the rotors with, i.e. silver, gray, gloss or flat black, whatever. Then spray at least 2 if not 3 (thin) coats of paint on the rotor's edge and center hub area(again, sometimes called the "hat").
I would wait at least 1 hour between coats; then after the rotors are finished, I would wait 24 hrs for drying time, then put the wheels back on and start the other 2 wheels.
*This is a good time to clean the wheels( inner rim too)completely as they will be off the car at this time.
**If you're up north, I'd us a rust-0-leum paint in the color you want.
Good Luck
p.s. sorry i don't have pics; well, i do but i am having problems getting them loaded up...
First of all, jack up the car and remove either the 2 front or 2 rear wheels at one time so you at least paint half the wheels at one time; then you need to sand of any rust (and you should use oh, say sandpaper with a grit of 220 or 400-depending on the amount of rust) that may have accumulated on the edge of the rotors where the vents are AND do the same to the "hats" of the rotors(the area from where the wheel studs are down to the edge of the brake pad area is(i.e. where the shiney part of the rotor begins around the hub).
Secondly, wipe off the dust from the sanding you've just done.
Third, here's the fun part: tape off using masking tape the whole side of the rotor's braking surface facing you and the caliper too, and anywhere else in the wheel well so no overspray gets on anything-including the floor just beneath the rotor.
Fourth, pick a color you want to spray the rotors with, i.e. silver, gray, gloss or flat black, whatever. Then spray at least 2 if not 3 (thin) coats of paint on the rotor's edge and center hub area(again, sometimes called the "hat").
I would wait at least 1 hour between coats; then after the rotors are finished, I would wait 24 hrs for drying time, then put the wheels back on and start the other 2 wheels.
*This is a good time to clean the wheels( inner rim too)completely as they will be off the car at this time.
**If you're up north, I'd us a rust-0-leum paint in the color you want.
Good Luck
p.s. sorry i don't have pics; well, i do but i am having problems getting them loaded up...
#6
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by C6Monty
How is this done?
frnt rotors#89060328 $81.15 ea
rr rotors #89060329 $67.10 ea
frnt brackets #88964166 $37.50 ea
rr brackets #88964167 $37.50 ea
Freight $24.75
I then had everything cadmium plated at Specialized Processing in El Cajon Calif. 619-442-0663. $110.
#7
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Originally Posted by purple heart
This is a relatively easy one. (Hi David-did you go to the tune today in Brandon? I just flew in from Augusta today, sorry, I couldn't make it.)
First of all, jack up the car and remove either the 2 front or 2 rear wheels at one time so you at least paint half the wheels at one time; then you need to sand of any rust (and you should use oh, say sandpaper with a grit of 220 or 400-depending on the amount of rust) that may have accumulated on the edge of the rotors where the vents are AND do the same to the "hats" of the rotors(the area from where the wheel studs are down to the edge of the brake pad area is(i.e. where the shiney part of the rotor begins around the hub).
Secondly, wipe off the dust from the sanding you've just done.
Third, here's the fun part: tape off using masking tape the whole side of the rotor's braking surface facing you and the caliper too, and anywhere else in the wheel well so no overspray gets on anything-including the floor just beneath the rotor.
Fourth, pick a color you want to spray the rotors with, i.e. silver, gray, gloss or flat black, whatever. Then spray at least 2 if not 3 (thin) coats of paint on the rotor's edge and center hub area(again, sometimes called the "hat").
I would wait at least 1 hour between coats; then after the rotors are finished, I would wait 24 hrs for drying time, then put the wheels back on and start the other 2 wheels.
*This is a good time to clean the wheels( inner rim too)completely as they will be off the car at this time.
**If you're up north, I'd us a rust-0-leum paint in the color you want.
Good Luck
p.s. sorry i don't have pics; well, i do but i am having problems getting them loaded up...
First of all, jack up the car and remove either the 2 front or 2 rear wheels at one time so you at least paint half the wheels at one time; then you need to sand of any rust (and you should use oh, say sandpaper with a grit of 220 or 400-depending on the amount of rust) that may have accumulated on the edge of the rotors where the vents are AND do the same to the "hats" of the rotors(the area from where the wheel studs are down to the edge of the brake pad area is(i.e. where the shiney part of the rotor begins around the hub).
Secondly, wipe off the dust from the sanding you've just done.
Third, here's the fun part: tape off using masking tape the whole side of the rotor's braking surface facing you and the caliper too, and anywhere else in the wheel well so no overspray gets on anything-including the floor just beneath the rotor.
Fourth, pick a color you want to spray the rotors with, i.e. silver, gray, gloss or flat black, whatever. Then spray at least 2 if not 3 (thin) coats of paint on the rotor's edge and center hub area(again, sometimes called the "hat").
I would wait at least 1 hour between coats; then after the rotors are finished, I would wait 24 hrs for drying time, then put the wheels back on and start the other 2 wheels.
*This is a good time to clean the wheels( inner rim too)completely as they will be off the car at this time.
**If you're up north, I'd us a rust-0-leum paint in the color you want.
Good Luck
p.s. sorry i don't have pics; well, i do but i am having problems getting them loaded up...
I used high temp engine enamel on mine about five month's ago and they still look like I just did it.
#8
Le Mans Master
Unfortunately, painting won't help the metal exposed by the drilled holes and the interior vanes. This exposed metal rusts also, and will fling the rust all over unless you bag the wheels, or blow dry them.
#9
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'09
I really appreciate all of the responses. Seems like every time I check out the Corvette Forum, I learn new things. Guess the Forum replaces hanging out down at the local garage like I used to do as a yoot. Thanks to all.
Guess for now I will try the painting approach, and think about buying new rotor in the next year or two. Plan on getting new wheels first. Will have to make sure they will clear Wildwoods, Brembos, etc.
Guess for now I will try the painting approach, and think about buying new rotor in the next year or two. Plan on getting new wheels first. Will have to make sure they will clear Wildwoods, Brembos, etc.
#10
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Originally Posted by TommyV
Unfortunately, painting won't help the metal exposed by the drilled holes and the interior vanes. This exposed metal rusts also, and will fling the rust all over unless you bag the wheels, or blow dry them.
#11
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by TommyV
Mine were easy because I have the base suspension and ordered the Z51 rotors and brackets from Barry Crow @ SDPC, a supporting vendor. Here are the prices:
frnt rotors#89060328 $81.15 ea
rr rotors #89060329 $67.10 ea
frnt brackets #88964166 $37.50 ea
rr brackets #88964167 $37.50 ea
Freight $24.75
I then had everything cadmium plated at Specialized Processing in El Cajon Calif. 619-442-0663. $110.
frnt rotors#89060328 $81.15 ea
rr rotors #89060329 $67.10 ea
frnt brackets #88964166 $37.50 ea
rr brackets #88964167 $37.50 ea
Freight $24.75
I then had everything cadmium plated at Specialized Processing in El Cajon Calif. 619-442-0663. $110.
And I will give a unbiased observation that they, indeed, are great looking and so is the "STINGRAY" emblem.
A donut and a hot chocolate at the next GTG, okay!
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Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'09
Originally Posted by C6FirstVette
Do you mean from this>>>>
Michael
Michael
Nice pix of an ugly problem! Can't believe my SUBARU is rust free and better looking!! Guess rotor rust is inversely proportional to price. I'd really hate to see Lambos or Ferraris with their wheels off.
Did you paint, zinc coat, or ? If you painted, what did you use?
#15
Melting Slicks
Here is what I did>>>
Rusty Rotor Fix
And I have no long term prognosis...so far so good and it is my $60 solution
Michael
Rusty Rotor Fix
And I have no long term prognosis...so far so good and it is my $60 solution
Michael
#17
Great info. When my wheel came off today for repair of the flat tire, I was surprised about how much rust there was!
Can the rotors be powder coated? How is the cadmium plating applied? With powder coating? I ask b/c I have a friend in the powder coating business.
How about the bolt in the center that the wheel goes on? Can that be removed and treated?
Seems like a big project, removing the calipers and rotors. Can an novice - intermediate diy'er do it? I guess it would make sense to do the calipers at the same time!
Can the rotors be powder coated? How is the cadmium plating applied? With powder coating? I ask b/c I have a friend in the powder coating business.
How about the bolt in the center that the wheel goes on? Can that be removed and treated?
Seems like a big project, removing the calipers and rotors. Can an novice - intermediate diy'er do it? I guess it would make sense to do the calipers at the same time!