Another method for jacking / lifting / supporting C6 - PICS!!!
02-07-2006, 05:20 PM
#41
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St. Jude Donor '13
Nice post, Thanks!
02-16-2006, 09:24 AM
#43
Great post. Have you considered a method to link the cross beam adapters to the jack stands?
Ken
Ken
02-16-2006, 09:55 AM
#44
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Vet, rather than cradling the adapter on the jackstands with very little leeway, would the adapter be more safely supported if you turned your style of jackstands 90 degrees?
Last edited by ProfMoriarty; 02-16-2006 at 10:49 AM.
02-16-2006, 11:10 AM
#45
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Originally Posted by ProfMoriarty
Vet, rather than cradling the adapter on the jackstands with very little leeway, would the adapter be more safely supported if you turned your style of jackstands 90 degrees?
The best solution would be to have some small structural steel channel (3" or ?) cut to short lengths sized to fit into the indention in the jack stand platform, and weld the channel pieces to the ends of the adapters with the channel "legs" extended and running front to back...then the jack stand would be locked into position
03-05-2006, 09:47 AM
#46
Member: Jr Geezer's Club
Howdy again
Hi Vet! Hey thanks for posting the additional pics of your lifting procedures in my oil change post yesterday. Very informative! 
I was hoping you would chime in so that credit could be given to you for the Crossmember. It was your original post where I learned about it. Best $29 I've spent lately.
Question.....what did you use to grind down the mounting post on the Northern cross member to fit in your jack hole? 90 degree dye grinder?
Thanks
Bone
I was hoping you would chime in so that credit could be given to you for the Crossmember. It was your original post where I learned about it. Best $29 I've spent lately.
Question.....what did you use to grind down the mounting post on the Northern cross member to fit in your jack hole? 90 degree dye grinder?
Thanks
Bone
03-05-2006, 10:00 AM
#47
Burning Brakes
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Great Thread with Pictures...thank you for taking the time.
Having just ordered my C6, I recently purchased the AC Hydraulics Floor Jack and Cross Beam Adapter from Steve at Ultimate Garage.
As most people know, the AC Hydraulics Floor Jacks are some of the best manufactured. The reason I like their Cross Beam Adapter is because it extends from 30" to 45". With the 45" reach, I can easily lift the car from the side, at the two lifting puck points.
http://www.ultimategarage.com/
Having just ordered my C6, I recently purchased the AC Hydraulics Floor Jack and Cross Beam Adapter from Steve at Ultimate Garage.
As most people know, the AC Hydraulics Floor Jacks are some of the best manufactured. The reason I like their Cross Beam Adapter is because it extends from 30" to 45". With the 45" reach, I can easily lift the car from the side, at the two lifting puck points.
http://www.ultimategarage.com/
03-05-2006, 10:38 AM
#48
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by Vet
Nice!
As someone else mentioned somewhere, this indeed could have been a good business venture... making custom cross beam adapters for Corvettes and selling them for $200 a pair or whatever. Only problem is that now it is known that cheap $29.99 adapters exist AND work on the C6, a good deal of the market is already lost.
As someone else mentioned somewhere, this indeed could have been a good business venture... making custom cross beam adapters for Corvettes and selling them for $200 a pair or whatever. Only problem is that now it is known that cheap $29.99 adapters exist AND work on the C6, a good deal of the market is already lost.
Then you could add Corvette logos and charge $250/pair.
03-05-2006, 12:57 PM
#49
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Bone Daddy
Hi Vet! Hey thanks for posting the additional pics of your lifting procedures in my oil change post yesterday. Very informative! I was hoping you would chime in so that credit could be given to you for the Crossmember. It was your original post where I learned about it. Best $29 I've spent lately. Question.....what did you use to grind down the mounting post on the Northern cross member to fit in your jack hole? 90 degree dye grinder? Thanks Bone
I was hoping you would chime in so that credit could be given to you for the Crossmember. It was your original post where I learned about it. Best $29 I've spent lately. Question.....what did you use to grind down the mounting post on the Northern cross member to fit in your jack hole? 90 degree dye grinder? Thanks BoneGlad the cross beam adapter is working out for you!
Nice oil change post and pics by the way... thanks for sharing!!! I used a regular straight shaft die grinder with a cylindrical carbide burr (similar to photo below, except a "double cut" pattern) to grind the cross beam adapter mounting post down. Lined the axis of the burr up with the axis of the cross beam adapter post and then carefully removed metal from all sides of the post until the desired diameter was achieved. I'm not sure if this is the best way to do it but it worked for me in a pinch and the job came out neat and clean. A lot faster than using a hand file!
But it did take a few minutes and sprayed nasty skin piercing shavings all over the place... cover your skin and wear eye protection!
03-05-2006, 05:57 PM
#51
Le Mans Master
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Another option
Originally Posted by St1ck
I used a piece of wood between my jack and the car... As soon as I put load on the jack i heard the horrendous cracking and crunching.. I though I was destroying my rear end (aluminum suspension pieces) 
But after I dropped the car down I noticed a big split in the wood.. *whew* ..
Now I just use this method..
There's just enough slope to offset the ramps and the car is pretty much level..
But after I dropped the car down I noticed a big split in the wood.. *whew* .. Now I just use this method..
There's just enough slope to offset the ramps and the car is pretty much level..
Now remove the floor jack and raise the front of the car with the 2nd cross beam adapter high enough to remove the ramps. Slide under the jack stands and lower the floor jack. You now have all 4 wheels off the ground for removal. If you weren’t satisfied with the safety aspect you could always use more blocking under the car but I don’t believe it would be necessary. Perhaps there is a fatal flaw (no pun intended) here that I’m not seeing? I’m sure some of our technical experts will be happy to point out what I’ve missed in my equation.
To me it seems like it’s a good alternative to buying 2 expensive and heavy floor jacks. Ramps are easy and pretty cheap to make, buy and store. Everything else would work exactly the same why as the original post except you would only need 1 floor jack.
03-05-2006, 10:38 PM
#52
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Great setup. I was thinking of changing the oil myself soon on my '04 Z06 and was just looking into a good set of jack stands when I came across this post.
Am I right in assuming that this method would work on a C5 just as well as the C6? Do the two cars have the same 'preferred' and 'optional' lifting points?
Also, could anyone recommend what they think would be the "safest" jack stands for this setup?
Thanx for the great post Vet!
Am I right in assuming that this method would work on a C5 just as well as the C6? Do the two cars have the same 'preferred' and 'optional' lifting points?
Also, could anyone recommend what they think would be the "safest" jack stands for this setup?
Thanx for the great post Vet!
05-08-2006, 01:01 AM
#53
Melting Slicks
This method works for me...
didn't read all of the thread replys, but what I do to raise the car is jack up from the side frame just under where the front fender and door meet high enough to put the jack stand under the front preferred location left or right of center depending on which side of the car I'm lifting first; then go to the other side of the car and lift the side frame and car high enough to get the jackstand under the preferred location and there it is-the front of the car is lifted with jack stands in both preferred locations under the front.
However, when I'm changing the oil and filter, I just lift up the driver's side only this way, then as the oil is still draining out of the pan(filter is removed first) I LOWER THE CAR back down on the ground with the drip pan still under the car catching the remaining oil as it drains out. I never have to lift the whole car just to get it level to drain the oil; I just lift the driver's side, take the filter off and unscrew the drain pan plug and lower the car back on the ground till its all drained out. Mind you, while the car is lifted by the jack from the frame rail, i slide the jack stand under the car for insurance just in case the floor jack gives way. The whole process takes about 3-5 minutes to raise the car, unscrew the filter and oil pan nut and lower the car back down so it can fully drain. this seems to work for me-does anybody see any potential problems with this method that maybe I don't? Please let me know if so... thanks
However, when I'm changing the oil and filter, I just lift up the driver's side only this way, then as the oil is still draining out of the pan(filter is removed first) I LOWER THE CAR back down on the ground with the drip pan still under the car catching the remaining oil as it drains out. I never have to lift the whole car just to get it level to drain the oil; I just lift the driver's side, take the filter off and unscrew the drain pan plug and lower the car back on the ground till its all drained out. Mind you, while the car is lifted by the jack from the frame rail, i slide the jack stand under the car for insurance just in case the floor jack gives way. The whole process takes about 3-5 minutes to raise the car, unscrew the filter and oil pan nut and lower the car back down so it can fully drain. this seems to work for me-does anybody see any potential problems with this method that maybe I don't? Please let me know if so... thanks
06-23-2006, 08:35 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by docrings1
F-14A, B & D; F/A-18D; T-34C; C-130 "Fat Albert"; TH-57A & C; C-2; C-9; CH-53E; H-3; H-46
08-17-2006, 06:31 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by Vet
Here is a method for jacking and supporting a C6 using ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations. All four wheels off the ground. Lots of room under the car to work (oil changes, etc.) Very secure.
All that's needed are two rolling hydraulic floor jacks, four jack stands, two cross beam adapters and a few planks.
In the photos below, the rolling hydraulic jack used at the front of the car is an AC DK13HLQ low-profile, long-reach jack. It fits just right, reaches the larger front cross member of the car and still sticks out far enough to allow full pumping of lever. Other hydraulic floor jacks may work here, you'll have to experiment.
The cross beam adapters - you'll need two. Only $29.99 each from NorthernTool.com. As shown in photos, the adapter used at the rear of the car can be left stock. The one used at the front of the car must be altered slightly.... just pull off the side extensions and add rubber pads on top of the main center piece at each end.
Note: in order to use the above described cross beam adapter in an AC brand jack, you will need to grind the 1.15" main pin of the adapter down a bit since the hole in AC jacks is only 1.00" (unlike most American jacks which have a 1.130" hole).
Directions:
1. -Get front wheels 2" - 3" above the ground by driving up on some planks
2. -Place jack with "altered" cross beam adapter under front main cross member of car (underneath the PREFERRED jacking locations)... make sure the rubber pads on the adapter touch only the preferred jacking locations... nothing will touch center of cross member
3. - Place two jack stands under the cross beam adapter, directly under the preferred jacking locations, lower weight of car onto stands, leave jack in place for added safety
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for rear of car, except use "stock" cross beam adapter
Car is now off the ground and fully supported by ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations.
All that's needed are two rolling hydraulic floor jacks, four jack stands, two cross beam adapters and a few planks.
In the photos below, the rolling hydraulic jack used at the front of the car is an AC DK13HLQ low-profile, long-reach jack. It fits just right, reaches the larger front cross member of the car and still sticks out far enough to allow full pumping of lever. Other hydraulic floor jacks may work here, you'll have to experiment.
The cross beam adapters - you'll need two. Only $29.99 each from NorthernTool.com. As shown in photos, the adapter used at the rear of the car can be left stock. The one used at the front of the car must be altered slightly.... just pull off the side extensions and add rubber pads on top of the main center piece at each end.
Note: in order to use the above described cross beam adapter in an AC brand jack, you will need to grind the 1.15" main pin of the adapter down a bit since the hole in AC jacks is only 1.00" (unlike most American jacks which have a 1.130" hole).
Directions:
1. -Get front wheels 2" - 3" above the ground by driving up on some planks
2. -Place jack with "altered" cross beam adapter under front main cross member of car (underneath the PREFERRED jacking locations)... make sure the rubber pads on the adapter touch only the preferred jacking locations... nothing will touch center of cross member
3. - Place two jack stands under the cross beam adapter, directly under the preferred jacking locations, lower weight of car onto stands, leave jack in place for added safety
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for rear of car, except use "stock" cross beam adapter
Car is now off the ground and fully supported by ONLY the "preferred" jacking locations.
i also really like the jack stands you have can you tell me who makes these
08-17-2006, 08:38 PM
#58
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by nelson gould
hello vet - i also really like the jack stands you have can you tell me who makes these
I got the jackstands from NorthernTool.com... here's the specs:
Blackhawk Automotive Fork Lift Stands (Pair) — 7-Ton, Model# BH5070 - $129
7-ton capacity
8 - 3/4" x 8 - 3/4" base
9 - 1/2" minimum height
14 - 1/4" maximum height
Sturdy, welded steel construction for superior strength. Heavy-gauge steel prevents distortion and twisting. Pin adjusts in 2in. increments.
Northern Tool Item# 144480
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...8727_200318727
Or try the below link and search for the item #:
http://www.northerntool.com/
These stands are pricy and have a capacity far greater than C6 owners need. However, they are really nice super-sturdy stands... if you do a lot of automotive work, they're a good long term investment.
They have a very low minimum height unlike many other cheaper stands. They have a flat top perch which is great for resting pucks against. They have nice feet too... small steel "pads" at the bottom of each leg.. much better than a lot of the cheaper stands that instead have sharp pointed edges at the bottom that just love to sink into whatever you put them on.
Only downside is that they adjust only in 2 inch increments... but I haven't found this to be a problem yet... somehow I am always able to get them adjusted nicely for whatever I'm doing. In my garage, I can set the front stands with the pins in the first hole, and the rear stands with the pins in the second hole, and the car is perfectly level... also keeping in mind the garage floor has a slight pitch. One way or another you will find a system to make them work well for your needs... worst case scenario, shims could be used for fine height adjusting. I never needed to do so.
Last edited by Vet; 01-26-2007 at 08:54 PM.
09-12-2006, 01:29 PM
#60
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by purple heart
didn't read all of the thread replys, but what I do to raise the car is jack up from the side frame just under where the front fender and door meet high enough to put the jack stand under the front preferred location left or right of center depending on which side of the car I'm lifting first; then go to the other side of the car and lift the side frame and car high enough to get the jackstand under the preferred location and there it is-the front of the car is lifted with jack stands in both preferred locations under the front.
However, when I'm changing the oil and filter, I just lift up the driver's side only this way, then as the oil is still draining out of the pan(filter is removed first) I LOWER THE CAR back down on the ground with the drip pan still under the car catching the remaining oil as it drains out. I never have to lift the whole car just to get it level to drain the oil; I just lift the driver's side, take the filter off and unscrew the drain pan plug and lower the car back on the ground till its all drained out. Mind you, while the car is lifted by the jack from the frame rail, i slide the jack stand under the car for insurance just in case the floor jack gives way. The whole process takes about 3-5 minutes to raise the car, unscrew the filter and oil pan nut and lower the car back down so it can fully drain. this seems to work for me-does anybody see any potential problems with this method that maybe I don't? Please let me know if so... thanks
However, when I'm changing the oil and filter, I just lift up the driver's side only this way, then as the oil is still draining out of the pan(filter is removed first) I LOWER THE CAR back down on the ground with the drip pan still under the car catching the remaining oil as it drains out. I never have to lift the whole car just to get it level to drain the oil; I just lift the driver's side, take the filter off and unscrew the drain pan plug and lower the car back on the ground till its all drained out. Mind you, while the car is lifted by the jack from the frame rail, i slide the jack stand under the car for insurance just in case the floor jack gives way. The whole process takes about 3-5 minutes to raise the car, unscrew the filter and oil pan nut and lower the car back down so it can fully drain. this seems to work for me-does anybody see any potential problems with this method that maybe I don't? Please let me know if so... thanks